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RDP'S "What are you working on?"

530RL

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That's pretty cool! In my world, I get all excited when it gets to the point of firing up the engine. Never had a turbine to play with though.

How long before it's ready to flight test?
The engine oil sump tank is above the engine and has a pressure actuated check valve to keep it from all draining into the engine gearbox and overflowing onto the ground.

We turn the engine over to get the oil to drop out of the sump tank into the gearbox and refill until we get to the prescribed amount necessary to fill the compressor/gearbox/turbine and the sump tank.

In the video you can see the N1 spool up, the ammeter go negative and the oil pressure start to rise. When the oil pressure rises, the check valve opens and allows us to add more oil to the sump.

Waiting on the clutch overhaul. It failed inspection upon re-installation.
 

monkeyswrench

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The engine oil sump tank is above the engine and has a pressure actuated check valve to keep it from all draining into the engine gearbox and overflowing onto the ground.

We turn the engine over to get the oil to drop out of the sump tank into the gearbox and refill until we get to the prescribed amount necessary to fill the compressor/gearbox/turbine and the sump tank.

In the video you can see the N1 spool up, the ammeter go negative and the oil pressure start to rise. When the oil pressure rises, the check valve opens and allows us to add more oil to the sump.

Waiting on the clutch overhaul. It failed inspection upon re-installation.
Does the upper portion of the assembly need to come off to replace the clutch? I assume the engine stays located in the fuselage (I think that's what you'd call it on a helicopter) otherwise I doubt you'd be filling the sump. I'd guess it has a large sump capacity and a big cooler as well. The rpm alone would create heat without a load.
 

530RL

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Does the upper portion of the assembly need to come off to replace the clutch? I assume the engine stays located in the fuselage (I think that's what you'd call it on a helicopter) otherwise I doubt you'd be filling the sump. I'd guess it has a large sump capacity and a big cooler as well. The rpm alone would create heat without a load.
Clutch is in the housing that connects to the engine gearbox.. Where the yellow rag is here.

The clutch is then connected to the main rotor transmission via an engine drive shaft between the two.


tempImageb5MiBw.png



You can see a clutch in here during engine alignment. The engine drive shaft goes between that clutch and the upper coupling on the main rotor transmission. Where the measuring tool is located below.

tempImagejJCsu4.png
 
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spectras only

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I'm surprised only four bolts attached on the flanges for the shaft. Are there safety wires on them, or just lock washers and Loctite?
 

monkeyswrench

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Fire waiting to happen.
This thing is the Winchester Mystery coach. I wired things the way they are supposed to, and it stopped running :oops:
It had been getting parasitic voltage to the wake up power for the ECU. It made it here on hopes and dreams. Chasing corrosion first, then this afternoon a broken wire for ignition.
 

spectras only

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monkeyswrench

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Maybe you want to try 3M zinc spray coating after you've cleaned those contacts


This is from Ebay
Never seen it before. Normally I just grease it up with dielectric grease. It helps with the corrosion, but attracts dirt and somehow seems to glue the weather seals in place. Need to look for a brush on type. With the spray, I think I may end up looking like the tin man.
 

R Cubed

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Went to jump in the '48 Ford Sedan Sunday morning to head to Boathouse on the island for the morning cruise. Damn thing wouldn't start. Just starting to diagnose the issue. Going to start with fuel, but thinking that is ok as I tried getting her kicked over with some starting fluid and that also did not do the trick. Hopefully I can get it figured out pretty quickly after I return from Del Mar for a wedding this weekend.
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Frickstyle

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Washed and detailed my F350 to put it up for sale. My 25 HO will be here next month.


View attachment 1464861
I am ordering a 2025 F350 - wondered if you had any concerns over the HO engine option. I may stay standard, less heat exchangers, additional cooling circuits, etc to go wrong. These damn things are so complicated with emissions equipment, etc.
 
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Cdog

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I am ordering a 2025 F350 - wondered if you had any concerns over the HO engine option. I may stay standard, less heat exchangers, additional cooling circuits, etc to go wrong. These damn things are so complicated with emissions equipment, etc.
The whole thing is like Chinese arithmetic, so at this point, send it. Buy an extended warranty. Let those bastards fix it. Get rid of it before there's problems. At least that's my theory. My 21 is basically the same thing and it's been flawless enough for me to buy another. Coming from a GM guy.


I'm really looking forward to the HO . a buddy of mine who owns a dump truck company just got a 24 HO. Says it's fast.
 

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After about 8 hours, revised design half way through building, handful of "practice pieces", cutting apart one side to square it to the other side, then final welding I have this. Fuel tank will mount on the step and I'll extend the heat shield vertical. Need to mount the battery and make the sub frame with casters.
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Making progress on this generator. Put it on hold until I got a breaker for the 480 voltage and was able to confirm it would start a 10hp electric motor. It did and it will start a 15hp electric motor as well. Ordered a fuel tank and mounted it. Extended the heat shield. Wired in a whip with plug and strain relief. Installed casters as well. Just need to mount the battery, fuel shutoff solenoid, and paint.
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Making progress on this thing and have to get it done soon to be able to test it in the hottest part of the year. I'm repowering this frame from a gas A15 Nissan to a 3 cylinder turbo charged diesel. I've had to install a larger radiator. Its taller, wider, and thicker. Getting the radiator to fit was the easy part. Finding room to mount the battery, hydraulic raise/lower pump, and Jack shaft for the transaxle has been tough. I literally have like a 1/2" clearance on all those. Had to buy a newer hydraulic pump because they're an inch and a half shorter than the older version and I needed that room. View attachment 1391865 View attachment 1391866 View attachment 1391867
Got back to working on this. Had to make a new jack shaft assembly and it was taking to much brain power so it got put aside. I was able to make one work with the limited room. Since I installed a larger radiator there isn't much room. The battery and hydraulic raise/lower pump are shoehorned in. I have 95% of the parts to finish it, just need to get them installed so I can test the cooling system.
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NicPaus

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Got 1 of the free quads running like new. Now trying to get the flat spots out of the rear tires. They sat for 11 years. Not flat but low. New rear tires are $250. Already spent $500 on parts.

Other free quad waiting on battery. Spent around $125 bought Chinese parts to see if it works.

Got the KLX110 running but need to tear into the carb. It's not right. Sat for 14 years. The fuel tank and petcock had to be cleaned. Could not find a factory fuel petcock so drilled out the old gas was Like concrete. New fuel line and spark plug. Looking for parts now online. Oil change kit and tires ordered.
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Backlash

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Nothing near as exciting as the rest of you! 🤣

My wife was watching some show on Netflix, so I stepped away and tinkered around on this harness. It leaves a lot to be desired...... I went through and tried to bundle things up so I'd have an idea of "What goes where."

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Someone before me tapped into the Mercury factory harness and butchered the wires leading to the 5-pin tach connector.... I peeled back the layers of tape and this is what I found. 😲

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Backlash

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I didn't have an exact match of the Mercury factory wiring, so I had to splice in some black 16 AWG in a few places. Everything I did was crimped with heat-shrink butt connectors then covered again with black heat-shrink. All finished with this part of the loom. 👍

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The next step will be to remove the cheap-ass "Non-marine grade" terminals wherever I can, and put the correct terminals back in their places..... 🫣

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coolchange

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Went to jump in the '48 Ford Sedan Sunday morning to head to Boathouse on the island for the morning cruise. Damn thing wouldn't start. Just starting to diagnose the issue. Going to start with fuel, but thinking that is ok as I tried getting her kicked over with some starting fluid and that also did not do the trick. Hopefully I can get it figured out pretty quickly after I return from Del Mar for a wedding this weekend. View attachment 1467154 View attachment 1467158
81% of all fuel problems are electrical.
 

Cdog

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I didn't have an exact match of the Mercury factory wiring, so I had to splice in some black 16 AWG in a few places. Everything I did was crimped with heat-shrink butt connectors then covered again with black heat-shrink. All finished with this part of the loom. 👍

View attachment 1469277

The next step will be to remove the cheap-ass "Non-marine grade" terminals wherever I can, and put the correct terminals back in their places..... 🫣

View attachment 1469278
Do yourself a favor and buy a new harness. Electric hack jobs are the worst
 

DC-88

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Picked up an 88 RM project. Going to do new dual ring top end and try to make it all more factory correct for its year. Sent the suspension to factory connection and a buddy with the connect is working to get Bills to make the pipe . I got all the correct graphics and other misc ordered .
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Making progress on this generator. Put it on hold until I got a breaker for the 480 voltage and was able to confirm it would start a 10hp electric motor. It did and it will start a 15hp electric motor as well. Ordered a fuel tank and mounted it. Extended the heat shield. Wired in a whip with plug and strain relief. Installed casters as well. Just need to mount the battery, fuel shutoff solenoid, and paint.
View attachment 1468946
I think I'm done minus paint. Got the battery box mounted and the fuel line installed. I decided to install a fuel shut off solenoid. That's the thing on the heat shield. Would've liked to mount the battery closer to the starter but there isn't room. Dimensionally its 21" wide, 38" long, and 44" tall. About 620 lbs wet. It's taking place of a 25kva tow behind generator. I can load this and my electric saw into my 1 ton and be on my way without a trailer.
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MPHSystems

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In honor of James Earl Ray day, today I am doing annual fish tank maintenance. Deep cleaned and acid bathed the calcium reactor and kalkwasser reactors yesterday. Also took the opportunity to touch up the paint, FlexSeal FTW also, the stand holds about 5 gallons of water before it gets to the floor.

Next step is to calibrate the pH Probes. Currently getting a citric acid bath after passing visual inspection.

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Taboma

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I think I'm done minus paint. Got the battery box mounted and the fuel line installed. I decided to install a fuel shut off solenoid. That's the thing on the heat shield. Would've liked to mount the battery closer to the starter but there isn't room. Dimensionally its 21" wide, 38" long, and 44" tall. About 620 lbs wet. It's taking place of a 25kva tow behind generator. I can load this and my electric saw into my 1 ton and be on my way without a trailer.
View attachment 1470855
Nice looking job 👍 You got's dem grande balls dragging around a 480V 3ph extension cord across a wet concrete floor with no ground fault protection 😳☠️
 

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Nice looking job 👍 You got's dem grande balls dragging around a 480V 3ph extension cord across a wet concrete floor with no ground fault protection 😳☠️
Usually I stab a ground rod into a planter or connect to the water main and keep the cord out of the slurry. Still gotta watch out for the guys with no brains that run over the 480 volt line with a scissor lift.
 

Taboma

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Usually I stab a ground rod into a planter or connect to the water main and keep the cord out of the slurry. Still gotta watch out for the guys with no brains that run over the 480 volt line with a scissor lift.
Properly grounding your source (Generator in this case) can provide a degree of circuit protection by tripping the breaker, but only when the fault current flow is far more than what's required to kill you. Breakers are intended to protect the circuit components, not you.

Certainly there's other layers of protection, like well insulated handles, or isolation between your electrical components and the saw's chassis (Rubber bushings as one example). You know saws, I know electrical. Unless your generator is wired 480V ungrounded Delta, then your actual ground potential in a Wye wired configuration to ground is 277V.
I took that across my chest once, didn't kill me but sure knocked me the F*ck right off an 8' ladder. 😳 🤕
If it is wired 480V ungrounded Delta, then there's zero potential to ground anyway, unless two faults occur simultaneously, then shit will get weird fast.

OK, so if a person wanted to spend the dollars for some good personal protection, this would be a bit over a $1k'S worthy safety net.


TRC_Southwire_HD-Pro_24646_24542_24396_24672_24846.jpg
 

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Properly grounding your source (Generator in this case) can provide a degree of circuit protection by tripping the breaker, but only when the fault current flow is far more than what's required to kill you. Breakers are intended to protect the circuit components, not you.

Certainly there's other layers of protection, like well insulated handles, or isolation between your electrical components and the saw's chassis (Rubber bushings as one example). You know saws, I know electrical. Unless your generator is wired 480V ungrounded Delta, then your actual ground potential in a Wye wired configuration to ground is 277V.
I took that across my chest once, didn't kill me but sure knocked me the F*ck right off an 8' ladder. 😳 🤕
If it is wired 480V ungrounded Delta, then there's zero potential to ground anyway, unless two faults occur simultaneously, then shit will get weird fast.

OK, so if a person wanted to spend the dollars for some good personal protection, this would be a bit over a $1k'S worthy safety net.


View attachment 1471413
Here's how its wired. I wish I could run 400 hertz power but the knowledge is far and few between as well as parts.
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Taboma

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Here's how its wired. I wish I could run 400 hertz power but the knowledge is far and few between as well as parts.
View attachment 1471454 View attachment 1471455
OK, so it's wired 277/480V 3ph wye, with a grounded neutral and the drawing appears to show it being bonded to the frame.
As I mentioned before, a ground fault (Motor winding faulting to frame as example) sufficient to trip the 480V breaker offers zero personal protection, it's purpose is to protect the circuit.
When using an extension cord AND if the equipment or device being powered is NOT grounded to earth (Double insulated as example or on tires), NOT connecting to a earth ground offers some personal protection (By the user being isolated with no reference to earth ground).
However, in your case, the saw and blade itself provides a path to ground, so earth grounding the generator is in this case recommended.

This TRC- Southwire HD-Pro GFCI I linked, is an easy connection, it comes with 2' corded pigtails, one side to the load side of your 480V breaker and the other wired to the receptacle or directly to your saw cord.
It can be set for a low enough MA trip to provide personal protection for not only you, but anybody that walks between your generator and saw, in the event of even a partial leak to ground.
It functions like any other GCFI, by measuring and comparing the leaving current to the return and trips if it detects even a minor difference.

Having worked with 400 Hertz at the Naval Air Station, yes, it has it's advantages for some applications, but at that high of a frequency, it's a quirky bitch for sure.
 
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