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RDP'S "What are you working on?"

Cdog

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Such a rad package. Might be a little
Much for the blazer but I like it.

Sure you don’t want that monster with a tr6060 in the camaro?

Didn’t you get a ls7 for that?
The Camaro has a Lt1. NA e85 they will make about the same power but with a 416 kit on the lt1. No blower heat soak for track action.

The LT4 just landed in my lap & I couldn’t help myself. lol!

I have a 2020 10 speed 10L80 & doing the electric transfer case flip for Passenger drop on the k5.

Want it easy for the wife to drive but enough to scare me when I want.
 

4Waters

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Bodywork is an art that I just can't even begin to master.
I've got a handle on it but I'm definitely not a master if it

Re jetted the carb and re curved the dist and reset the timing, getting closer but still a slight hesitation rolling into the throttle at about 2k rpm View attachment 1326872
Check the accelerator pump, it might be to quick and running out of fuel. Is it a holley?
 
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Todd Mohr

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I've got a handle on it but I'm definitely not a master if it


Check the accelerator pump, it might be to quick and running out of fuel. Is it a holley?
Edelbrock, I have a Holley I may switch to if I can't get rid if the bog.
 

Gramps

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the knife part 2

did more grinding and sanding yesterday then the heat treating..............all went good until the oil quench........warped it. It had a bow in it that was about 1/8" curve. Went through the heat treating a second time but it didn't straighten out. Tempered it in a straightening jig but still was warped. Finally it took a straightening hammer to it and got it worked out. Finished grinding and sanding today. Tomorrow the handle work starts.
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Todd Mohr

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Are you using the chart/graph that comes with the carb? Helps tuning a lot.
Yes, the chart helps send you in the right direction for sure. The Edelbrock carbs don't work as well as the Holleys do with a big cam and low vacuum, but I'm close enough for now. I set the timing at 14 initial and 34 total with all the advance in at 2500ish, seems to work pretty well.
 

4Waters

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Won't idle, has a brand new carb and same issue as rebuilt carb. It is very very lazy on the Rev, dizzy is set correctly but it even get it to fire you have to retard the shit out of it. We are down to a base engine problem, we think the cam is off a tooth. We don't know anything about the build except no one has been able to make idle since it was rebuilt (4 owners now). Time to pull the motor and split the case.

Unknown size, Unknown cam, all we know is it came with a 356 speedster carb (just one) and a 356 dizzy.

The owner is a friend or ours that is battling throat cancer and they need the money.
 

MPHSystems

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Working on this

47 reader access control, also 47 cameras with redundant NVRs, also 56 station SIP intercom system + some other goodies like structured cabling and anti ligature built in TV remotes

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coolchange

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View attachment 1327942

Won't idle, has a brand new carb and same issue as rebuilt carb. It is very very lazy on the Rev, dizzy is set correctly but it even get it to fire you have to retard the shit out of it. We are down to a base engine problem, we think the cam is off a tooth. We don't know anything about the build except no one has been able to make idle since it was rebuilt (4 owners now). Time to pull the motor and split the case.

Unknown size, Unknown cam, all we know is it came with a 356 speedster carb (just one) and a 356 dizzy.

The owner is a friend or ours that is battling throat cancer and they need the money.
Put a degree wheel on it first before you pull it.
Also check for phase delineation in the dist. I did a 356 and put a pertronix in it.
Dual webers so of course I thought it was carbs. 82% of fuel problems are electrical right? So I made dam sure it was right. So I called a guy I know who is a Weber guru and had him put it on his dyno. Hooked up his scope and took him 30 seconds to say this things fooked up. Mishmash of parts in dist. Not sayin that’s it but….
Edit; vacuum at idle…
 
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4Waters

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Put a degree wheel on it first before you pull it.
Also check for phase delineation in the dist. I did a 356 and put a pertronix in it.
Dual webers so of course I thought it was carbs. 82% of fuel problems are electrical right? So I made dam sure it was right. So I called a guy I know who is a Weber guru and had him put it on his dyno. Hooked up his scope and took him 30 seconds to say this things fooked up. Mishmash of parts in dist. Not sayin that’s it but….
Edit; vacuum at idle…
We can't get it to idle at all, revs are super lazy. We put a brand new stock dizzy (not a 356) in this afternoon, it started easier but still won't idle and lazy on the revs. If it gets under 1500 rpms it is hard to keep it running. No vacuum leaks.
 

ChrisV

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Holy crap that’s a ton of output. i don’t know shit about these little v-6’s so what’s it take to get these kinda numbers? share some details on the build, please.
This one was pretty basic. Built motor and trans. Still uses stock exhaust manifolds but drilled out on the turbine side to fit bigger turbos. 12injectors, big fuel pump, and e85.
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monkeyswrench

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View attachment 1327942

Won't idle, has a brand new carb and same issue as rebuilt carb. It is very very lazy on the Rev, dizzy is set correctly but it even get it to fire you have to retard the shit out of it. We are down to a base engine problem, we think the cam is off a tooth. We don't know anything about the build except no one has been able to make idle since it was rebuilt (4 owners now). Time to pull the motor and split the case.

Unknown size, Unknown cam, all we know is it came with a 356 speedster carb (just one) and a 356 dizzy.

The owner is a friend or ours that is battling throat cancer and they need the money.
Have you put a vacuum gage on it? Is there any valve train noise? Is the case a late model Brazilian?

If the valves aren't set right, it can give the same issues. The late Brazilian cases had hydraulic lifters. Not common, but a possibility.

The common issue would be setting up stock pushrods like chromoly. The moly's you set up at zero cold...the motor expands when warm. When cold, they won't idle for crap. If you set stockers at zero, it won't start or run for crap.

It is also possible the distributor drive was installed wrong...same as stabbing a distributor wrong. Probably not going to be the cam, when assembling, it's gear on gear and sat in place. That said, without knowing the build, it's possible it has an adjustable cam gear. To find out you'd have to pull the oil pump.

Good deeds. We know the drill. Good luck!
 

coolchange

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We can't get it to idle at all, revs are super lazy. We put a brand new stock dizzy (not a 356) in this afternoon, it started easier but still won't idle and lazy on the revs. If it gets under 1500 rpms it is hard to keep it running. No vacuum leaks.
Mind bender for sure. Vacuum gauge can tell cam timing. Finger in the hole compression test with breaker bar. Compression test. Sounds like you’re right just thinking of ways to confirm with out splitting the cases. Sounds like an FE I had that jumped the cam sprocket. Looks like you’re day is called out.😁
 

4Waters

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Mind bender for sure. Vacuum gauge can tell cam timing. Finger in the hole compression test with breaker bar. Compression test. Sounds like you’re right just thinking of ways to confirm with out splitting the cases. Sounds like an FE I had that jumped the cam sprocket. Looks like you’re day is called out.😁
It's been a very long time for my dad but he thinks we might be able to see the timing marks if we pull the oil pump. Yes/no 🤷‍♂️
 

4Waters

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Have you put a vacuum gage on it? Is there any valve train noise? Is the case a late model Brazilian?

If the valves aren't set right, it can give the same issues. The late Brazilian cases had hydraulic lifters. Not common, but a possibility.

The common issue would be setting up stock pushrods like chromoly. The moly's you set up at zero cold...the motor expands when warm. When cold, they won't idle for crap. If you set stockers at zero, it won't start or run for crap.

It is also possible the distributor drive was installed wrong...same as stabbing a distributor wrong. Probably not going to be the cam, when assembling, it's gear on gear and sat in place. That said, without knowing the build, it's possible it has an adjustable cam gear. To find out you'd have to pull the oil pump.

Good deeds. We know the drill. Good luck!
Can't get it to idle so vacuum guage won't tell us anything. We confirmed the dizzy drive is set correctly. It has a stinger so that's the only noise we hear. I don't know what case it is or what push rods are in it. We know nothing about the build or who put it together. We know the last 3 owners couldn't get it to run correctly.

As far as the dizzy being stabbed wrong I've seen guys that may or may not know how to stab one drop one in kinda close and then adjust the plug wire arrangement on the cap. And they run fine. I've never done that because I know how to do it correctly.
 

coolchange

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It's been a very long time for my dad but he thinks we might be able to see the timing marks if we pull the oil pump. Yes/no 🤷‍♂️
I don’t know. I used to refer to my dad on that stuff and he’s passed. And all the VW stuff is gone. 🥲 Dial indicator to check valve event is all I got
 

4Waters

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I don’t know. I used to refer to my dad on that stuff and he’s passed. And all the VW stuff is gone. 🥲 Dial indicator to check valve event is all I got
This is the most I have played with a VW, I'm lost. Pops had a nice running 1835 in our rail but he built that 45 years ago and sold the rail 37ish years ago. We are basically at the point where we need to start at square 1 just so we know what we have and that it is assembled correctly, if pops remembers correctly it is kinda easy to be off a tooth putting the cam in on a vw.
 

monkeyswrench

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Can't get it to idle so vacuum guage won't tell us anything. We confirmed the dizzy drive is set correctly. It has a stinger so that's the only noise we hear. I don't know what case it is or what push rods are in it. We know nothing about the build or who put it together. We know the last 3 owners couldn't get it to run correctly.

As far as the dizzy being stabbed wrong I've seen guys that may or may not know how to stab one drop one in kinda close and then adjust the plug wire arrangement on the cap. And they run fine. I've never done that because I know how to do it correctly.
I've had to intentionally stab HEI's wrong and change the wires...damn things are too big, and people run them in hot rods up against the firewall.

As for pushrods, pop a valve cover off and take a peek. Stockers are aluminum. If used ones or such, they'll turn the brown color. Just scrape one with a pick to check. Chromoly ones will look like standard steel ones from a small block or what-not.

I'd start by looking at the valve adjustment. Basically try to start at the beginning. Check grounds, coil...all the basic stuff.

I don't think pulling the oil pump won't let you see the timing marks. The crank gear is small, and tucked back in and up.
 

oldboatsrule

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It's been a very long time for my dad but he thinks we might be able to see the timing marks if we pull the oil pump. Yes/no 🤷‍♂️


No I do not believe so.

But if you pull the valve covers, rotate the engine until the intake and exhaust rockers opposite of #1 (#3) are at the point of intake and exhaust rocking back and forth. Now you should be at TDC on #1 confirm with timing mark on pulley.

It's not common to off at the cam gear.

You mentioning that you had to retard timing to get it to start. Leads me to be suspect of a stuck advance in the distributor. If it is a centrifugal advance removing the cap and twisting the rotor should result in a spring loaded return to place when you let go. If
Vacuum advance you should be able to move the points plate with the same results.

I'm guessing broken/ weak advance springs
Or as Mr monkey said above. Loose adjustable cam gear.

Also just to be sure. If it's a dual port check the boots on the intake for rot or leaks.
 

79 HUSTLER

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This is the most I have played with a VW, I'm lost. Pops had a nice running 1835 in our rail but he built that 45 years ago and sold the rail 37ish years ago. We are basically at the point where we need to start at square 1 just so we know what we have and that it is assembled correctly, if pops remembers correctly it is kinda easy to be off a tooth putting the cam in on a vw.
Not easy to be off a tooth and next to impossible for a stocker to jump a tooth unless shit is really worn out. You’d have to be paying no attention at all to assemble it off a tooth.
 

coolchange

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As said, it would be damn near impossible to time a VW cam wrong. Unless, they put the crank gear on backwards, I don’t know if you can do that. But if you did, and they tried to figure out the timing because the mark was on the backside, it’s entirely possible. And once you get the crank gear on, it’s a bitch to take it off. The few VW motors I’ve done have been with my dad and he just covered the technical parts. He’s built a few VW aircraft engines. Shit still had all my stuff you could borrow my VW engine stand.
 

coolchange

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As old boats said, pull number 3 and look at valve event. Too see that the over lap occurs at tdc of number 1🏁
You working on it today
Remember that timing mark is 7° BTDC
 
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4Waters

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No I do not believe so.

But if you pull the valve covers, rotate the engine until the intake and exhaust rockers opposite of #1 (#3) are at the point of intake and exhaust rocking back and forth. Now you should be at TDC on #1 confirm with timing mark on pulley.

It's not common to off at the cam gear.

You mentioning that you had to retard timing to get it to start. Leads me to be suspect of a stuck advance in the distributor. If it is a centrifugal advance removing the cap and twisting the rotor should result in a spring loaded return to place when you let go. If
Vacuum advance you should be able to move the points plate with the same results.

I'm guessing broken/ weak advance springs
Or as Mr monkey said above. Loose adjustable cam gear.

Also just to be sure. If it's a dual port check the boots on the intake for rot or leaks.
We have a brand new dizzy in it now, it started easier but still won't rev for shit and won't idle, definitely no vacuum leaks around the boots.
 

4Waters

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Wife's car was alerting low oil pressure yesterday, engine was nice a quiet so while it was cooling down I jumped on the old interweb. I found people complaining that the oil filters were coming apart and plugging oil gallies. I also found that the sender sometimes fails and leaks into the plug. Since the engine was quiet I figured it was the sender.

I was prepared to check pressure with a mechanical guage this morning until I crawled under the car an saw the sender was glistening in oil, pulled the plug off and it was full of oil, changed sender and a 1/2 can of brake dry clean into the harness side of the plug and problem solved.

I figure the people with filters coming apart are getting their oil changed at jiffy lube and are 10k or more miles between oil changes. We change our oil with factory oil and filter every 5k.

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spectras only

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Volvo B20, here comes Simon the Saint!;)☺️
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front seats may need a little dye to match rear bench
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I'm wondering if my engine could do 3 million miles as the one in this youtube video?
 
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TPC

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We were heading to Sedona on Sunday and an hour from home heard and felt a thud and the trailer became much heavier.
Trailers upgraded suspension started failing.

Turned around and gently headed home.
Contacted the suspension builder and they say they'll send a crew out to replace it with an "improved" version.

So I've had enough of this RV, went down and ordered a new Toy Hauler.
 
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