'82 Juddcraft Project

[Jimmy]

I have a cooler pump and lines stuff.

whats the deal with shipping you stuff?

customs, taxes?

I have 2 extra power steering setups. I'd be happy as shit to get it out of my shop.
I went full hydraulic, so i have all the parts from that, plus a spare. I'd be happy to send it Jimmy.

First job once it's going will be sort something out and get that power steering on.

 

[Headless hula]

Do I still keep that rack and pinion steering arrangement? I'll still have to chase up a pump and oil cooler.

Yea, you use a similar cable from the wheel, that rack and pinion stuff, and with the goodies from hst4me, you have power steering.

I think everyone that rides in that hotrod will appreciate the extra work involved. o

 

[Jimmy]

Yea, you use a similar cable from the wheel, that rack and pinion stuff, and with the goodies from hst4me, you have power steering.

I think everyone that rides in that hotrod will appreciate the extra work involved. o

Surly that Morse cable should adapt to it.

Rack and pinion steering back in the 80s was probably ahead of the game back in the day.
I got mates that are still using the Armstrong cable system.

 

[Headless hula]

Surly that Morse cable should adapt to it.

Rack and pinion steering back in the 80s was probably ahead of the game back in the day.
I got mates that are still using the Armstrong cable system.

There's a big nut that holds the cable sheathing to the hydraulic assist cylinder. I didn't one in the picture you posted. The cable passes through the center of it, and there's a bracket that connects to the tiller arm on the outdrive. It's really simple. 2 hoses, a couple of bolts, pins, etc, and it's in.

 

[Jimmy]

I've spent a few days on it since last update.
Got a bit done but doesn't look like much.
Not my best work but the dash is fitted off. I have to change it a bit, I just realized that the oil and coolant temp switch the 0v not 12v.



The engine bay is about 80% fitted off but I ran out of crimps.

I'm going to rig up a buzzer to go off whenever somethings not right.

Got the blower hooked up.


Found the perfect spot for the wet exhaust pressure switch it.
Picked up a raw water filter in my travels.

The trim pump had different thread to the trim lines. I ended up going to a break and clutch store and they had adapters on the counter, so if u ever blow a hose or fitting just make it out of break lines apposed to paying mega bucks on Mercury gear.

I had another balls up. I forgot to put the exhaust Y pipe T piece in before the engine went in so I'll have to pull the engine forward to get it in.
I've come to far now so I'll just blank it off and do it another winter.
When I pulled the Y pipe apart I found they have flaps or shutters in them.

Also ran some pinch weld around the engine bay and hull. Finishes the rough edge off.

 

[HST4ME]

PM me a shipping address Jimmy, I met up with Hula and we've scrounged up some stuff for you

 

[Jimmy]

PM me a shipping address Jimmy, I met up with Hula and we've scrounged up some stuff for you

U guys are awesome!

 

[Taboma]

Not sure if you applied extra adhesive to those tie-wrap bases ? Knowing you don't lack wiring experience, but despite my best prep efforts, especially in heat, they always eventually pop off :grumble:

 

[Headless hula]

PM me a shipping address Jimmy, I met up with Hula and we've scrounged up some stuff for you

Nice meeting you the other day bud. :thumbsup

 

[Jimmy]

Not sure if you applied extra adhesive to those tie-wrap bases ? Knowing you don't lack wiring experience, but despite my best prep efforts, especially in heat, they always eventually pop off :grumble:

Yeah I wipe the sticky foam back off them and wiped the fiberglass with acetone and Araldite them on there.
Leave them over night before zipping them up. We'll see how it goes.

 

[Jimmy]

Has anyone got a issue with using copper as coolant lines?

 

[Headless hula]

I'm wondering out loud if the vibration from the motor will work harden them, and eventually crack?

I dunno Jimmy. I've only seen rubber and stainless used for that stuff. The stainless hard lines I've seen were connected with short sections of rubber and didn't use a compression style of connection. I guess it would depend on the connection you used?

My 2 cents..

I think the stock mercuiser power steering coolers are copper. So it shouldn't be a corrosion issue.

 

[Jimmy]

I'm wondering out loud if the vibration from the motor will work harden them, and eventually crack?

I dunno Jimmy. I've only seen rubber and stainless used for that stuff. The stainless hard lines I've seen were connected with short sections of rubber and didn't use a compression style of connection. I guess it would depend on the connection you used?

My 2 cents..

I think the stock mercuiser power steering coolers are copper. So it shouldn't be a corrosion issue.

Yeah the old setup was all copper and olive style fittings.
I can get a hold of some 3/4" copper real easy and make it look neat.

 

[Jimmy]

Something like this but in copper

 

[Jimmy]

What's everyone got on their trailer to help line up the boat when launching and loading and not hitting the mud guard's?

 

[Jimmy]

 

[Jimmy]

It's a crude drawing but it's the simplest one on the net to follow.
Question is does the trim down switch (green wire) carry all 100A "unfused" of the trim motor. It's a big ask for a toggle switch.
The pump I've got comes with 1 relay.

 

[HST4ME]

No, you have an old outboard pump. You can add a second relay. One thing if you don't have the newer pump with the plastic reservoir it is going to be slower than shit. I mean you might as well get out of the boat and do it your fucking self slow.

Ah going back and looking you have the fat bastard prestolite pump. Your fucked mate! If you would send a shipping addy I could help a brother out with some goodies like powersteering and maybe a proper pump.

 

[Jimmy]

No, you have an old outboard pump. You can add a second relay. One thing if you don't have the newer pump with the plastic reservoir it is going to be slower than shit. I mean you might as well get out of the boat and do it your fucking self slow.

Oh Joy [emoji28].

 

[Cgrohe223]

View attachment 546650

I'd say do some carpeted wood panels with countersunk bolts in wood and bolted to the fender just so if it rubs it's not going to leave a mark down the side of the boat? Is that what your asking

 

[Cgrohe223]

 

[Jimmy]

View attachment 548278

Yeah that's the go. I'll have carpet left over after I do the floor.

 

[Jimmy]

Our last boat had something like this.
Made life real easy lining her up when loading.

And have side guards like this.

 

[ka0tyk]

as long as you put the trailer in the water at the right height you dont need sticks, ramps, etc. the bunks will guide the boat onto the trailer fine. plus you should be getting close and walking the boat on anyways.

as far as the previous pictures the steering setup is a bit sketchy... get yourself the proper hydraulic ram and loop the hoses if you dont plan on running a power steering pump. its not 100% required but it makes it easier on the arms. i did it in my old bahner with a 454 and a alpha gen 2. you can get a fin on your drive to counteract the prop spinning pulling the drive to one side. but that clamp setup just looks scary... safety first!

 

[Jimmy]

as long as you put the trailer in the water at the right height you dont need sticks, ramps, etc. the bunks will guide the boat onto the trailer fine. plus you should be getting close and walking the boat on anyways.

as far as the previous pictures the steering setup is a bit sketchy... get yourself the proper hydraulic ram and loop the hoses if you dont plan on running a power steering pump. its not 100% required but it makes it easier on the arms. i did it in my old bahner with a 454 and a alpha gen 2. you can get a fin on your drive to counteract the prop spinning pulling the drive to one side. but that clamp setup just looks scary... safety first!

Yeah copy that 👍

 

[Cgrohe223]

as long as you put the trailer in the water at the right height you dont need sticks, ramps, etc. the bunks will guide the boat onto the trailer fine. plus you should be getting close and walking the boat on anyways.

as far as the previous pictures the steering setup is a bit sketchy... get yourself the proper hydraulic ram and loop the hoses if you dont plan on running a power steering pump. its not 100% required but it makes it easier on the arms. i did it in my old bahner with a 454 and a alpha gen 2. you can get a fin on your drive to counteract the prop spinning pulling the drive to one side. but that clamp setup just looks scary... safety first!

Kaotyk coming out of the wood works with great advice as always haha [emoji1303] been a while since I've seen you posting on here

 

[Cgrohe223]

Here's the old set up with the alpha gen I I believe it was if it helps

 

[Cgrohe223]

Actually had a picture of kaotyks set up as well

 

[Flying_Lavey]

No, you have an old outboard pump. You can add a second relay. One thing if you don't have the newer pump with the plastic reservoir it is going to be slower than shit. I mean you might as well get out of the boat and do it your fucking self slow.

Ah going back and looking you have the fat bastard prestolite pump. Your fucked mate! If you would send a shipping addy I could help a brother out with some goodies like powersteering and maybe a proper pump.

A slight little detour question for ya, this there a different trim pump you'd suggest for a single ram 2.4L OB that would get it to react slightly quicker?

 

[Jimmy]

(Deleted drunken comment)

 

[Cgrohe223]

A slight little detour question for ya, this there a different trim pump you'd suggest for a single ram 2.4L OB that would get it to react slightly quicker?

I know on some of the newer stuff they have a set up that almost has a trailering mode once you get past a point of your normal trim range while in use, it either will go up fast and down faster for when you are trimming to put it on the trailer and off the trailer. If hag answers your question?

 

[HST4ME]

A slight little detour question for ya, this there a different trim pump you'd suggest for a single ram 2.4L OB that would get it to react slightly quicker?

New style.Cruiser pump.

 

[Jimmy]

Not sure if you applied extra adhesive to those tie-wrap bases ? Knowing you don't lack wiring experience, but despite my best prep efforts, especially in heat, they always eventually pop off :grumble:

Well that didn't work :smackhead: [emoji3]

 

[Jimmy]

Started the plumbing last weekend.


Should look alright after a buff and a bit of clear coat on it.

 

[Jimmy]

In my searches today I'll chase up another trim relay.
How many watts is the trim pump rated at?
The C/B from what I'm reading is 120A feeding it but I remember my old Chrysler drive pump only drawing ~50A.
Seem that the fuse is only protecting a dead short and it's not anything to go off.

 

[Taboma]

Well that didn't work :smackhead: [emoji3]

Ummm, hope I didn't jinx ya :rolleyes

I'm not sure anything is going to adhere to that carpet --- although that stuff they call Goop, once dried seems to stick to about anything.

 

[Jimmy]

Ummm, hope I didn't jinx ya :rolleyes

I'm not sure anything is going to adhere to that carpet --- although that stuff they call Goop, once dried seems to stick to about anything.

I cable tied it to the carpet 😃.
Might put a bit more quick grip behind the carpet tho. There's only a few blobs holding it up at the moment.

 

[HST4ME]

88-79023A91 - Fuse Assembly 90 Amp

 

[Jimmy]

Went shopping. The misses will flip but that's future Jim's problem.
Continuous 90A relay.

85C temp switch

Battery box.

Welded threaded nipples onto the headers.

 

[Jimmy]

Got rid of all the unnecessary plugs and fuses.

... I just realized I've covered the filler screw... minor detail [emoji1]

 

[Taboma]

Jimmy,
I'm trying to better understand the basic concept of your water induced header setup.
As I get it, they're going to be dry and hot until some parameter is met, then water will be introduced into the actual exhaust stream in each tube.

Also from previous pictures the headers mount up, the low point being the head's exhaust port.

I'd never go so far as to say this has never been done, but I don't recall ever seeing it unless the header tubes were double walled.

In the 70's I had a flattie with dry headers, ouch, holy Jesus did I get some nice burns :eek :grumble:

I can only assume that the basic concept dictates that the flow will be initialized when rpms are sufficient to exhaust the water and it will be shut off prior to engine shut-down in order to evacuate any remaining moisture.

Am I warm ? Seems a bit risky, :eek but I'm sure curious how it's going to work out :thumbsup

 

[HST4ME]

Not to be a dickhead but those headers would be the first thing in the bin. I'd run some small borla header mufflers dry with baffle inserts before them.

 

[Jimmy]

Not to be a dickhead but those headers would be the first thing in the bin. I'd run some small borla header mufflers dry with baffle inserts before them.

Got a link or a picture? I've got all winter now to get something sorted.

The only think I don't like about them is there no drip loop at the bottom for the weep holes.

What's the differences between these ones and the ones I got?

 

[Taboma]

Got a link or a picture? I've got all winter now to get something sorted.

The only think I don't like about them is there no drip loop at the bottom for the weep holes.

What's the differences between these ones and the ones I got?
View attachment 549319

Those are double walled, pipe in pipe, so the water cools but doesn't interact with the exhaust flow until just prior to exiting the collector --- so unless the inner pipe cracks or fails, water doesn't get into your cylinders :eek

 

[Jimmy]

Jimmy,
I'm trying to better understand the basic concept of your water induced header setup.
As I get it, they're going to be dry and hot until some parameter is met, then water will be introduced into the actual exhaust stream in each tube.

I thought that's the basic concept of all wet over transom headers that didn't have a water jacket.

 

[Jimmy]

Those are double walled, pipe in pipe, so the water cools but doesn't interact with the exhaust flow until just prior to exiting the collector --- so unless the inner pipe cracks or fails, water doesn't get into your cylinders :eek

Yeah right I might throw these on gumtree.com and suss something else out.

 

[Taboma]

I thought that's the basic concept of all wet over transom headers that didn't have a water jacket.

Maybe it's a jetbote thing :headscratch: I wouldn't say nobody has done it, but the headers in example are double walled and that's how I'm familiar with them being setup. When it exits the collector it's going to seem as if it's part of the exhaust, but it's entering around a ring gap between the inner and outer pipe. Then if your engine burps or shuts down during a high flow situation you're not sucking that water in -- that's where yours seem risky.

Maybe somebody will chime in and proclaim me full-o-shit -- hey it's RDP, anything's possible

 

[mash on it]

Maybe it's a jetbote thing :headscratch: I wouldn't say nobody has done it, but the headers in example are double walled and that's how I'm familiar with them being setup. When it exits the collector it's going to seem as if it's part of the exhaust, but it's entering around a ring gap between the inner and outer pipe. Then if your engine burps or shuts down during a high flow situation you're not sucking that water in -- that's where yours seem risky.

Maybe somebody will chime in and proclaim me full-o-shit -- hey it's RDP, anything's possible

The ones Jimmy posted look like plain old Bassetts, Twisties at that, and NOT double walled.

Jimmy-
The sprint car headers I 'adapted' (read: added water injection) for my jet boat, I put a weep hole at the lowest point of the pipe, about 5 to 6" after the header flange. Mine were Schoenfelds' headers, up side down. The new set are stainless steel from Rocket Headers.

Dan'l

 

[Jimmy]

The ones Jimmy posted look like plain old Bassetts, Twisties at that, and NOT double walled.

Jimmy-
The sprint car headers I 'adapted' (read: added water injection) for my jet boat, I put a weep hole at the lowest point of the pipe, about 5 to 6" after the header flange. Mine were Schoenfelds' headers, up side down. The new set are stainless steel from Rocket Headers.

Dan'l

Any issues with those sprint car headers?

I've dropped into my local guy Eppalock Marine and then to then to the performance guy Nankervis marine had a chat about it, (I'll elaborate more tonight)
There's also a hotrod exhaust guy in town and I'll get his take on it see if we can make something work.
But I price some rolco manifolds/tips/gaskets/exhaust hose to go through the transom and they're ganna be $1000USD.
So I'll keep on keeping on today on the boat but we'll have to sort something out a bit better with the exhaust arrangement.

 

[rivrrts429]

Maybe it's a jetbote thing :headscratch: I wouldn't say nobody has done it, but the headers in example are double walled and that's how I'm familiar with them being setup. When it exits the collector it's going to seem as if it's part of the exhaust, but it's entering around a ring gap between the inner and outer pipe. Then if your engine burps or shuts down during a high flow situation you're not sucking that water in -- that's where yours seem risky.

Maybe somebody will chime in and proclaim me full-o-shit -- hey it's RDP, anything's possible

Well, you're full of shit [emoji2]

Those are Bassett Headers. You can see Bassett's manufacture plate a few inches from the collector. They're not water jacketed but instead water injected. You can see the nipples for the water injection lines at the very bottom of each header. Water doesn't enter the header until RPM's reach 1500-2000.

Water jacketed headers are no different on a jet than they are on an I/O or v-drive. The only difference is the sweep attack angle to the transom. The only difference between all three types is the type of propulsion. Exhausts are produced similarly between all of them.

There is no risk of heat under a hatch or through the transom in the bilge on over transom headers like Jimmy posted so that's why they're injected rather than jacketed.