'82 Juddcraft Project

[RiverDave]

Still waiting for Dave to send some shirts my way [emoji12]

did your order them? I am pretty sure we have caught up with all orders now?

 

[Cgrohe223]

did your order them? I am pretty sure we have caught up with all orders now?

No haha just giving you a hard time I will at some point [emoji482]

 

[Jimmy]

Picked up the new pulley from the machine shop.
I was having trouble finding a main pulley with a 2" groove for the water pump so I just got a bit of 150mm aluminium rod machined up to add onto the old pulley.

I also retired the ol girl.
She just turned 6 and didn't skip a beat.

 

[Jimmy]

Been a bit slack with the boat over Christmas too many of these ones [emoji481].
Had a heap of gear turn up.
New throttle cable and shift cable.

Went with a low friction cable for the throttle to make it a lil more responsive.
Shift cable doesn't matter.
New flame arrest for a bit of bling.

New replacement skeg.
Not sure weather to pull the seals out before we weld it on.

New shifter

Second hand shift assembly

Universal adapter kit to suit the Merc assy

New Ignition.


I'm still waiting on the bellhousing outta Sydney I ordered start of December, I finally got onto them today but the guy just blew me off so I'll hassle them again tomorrow.
The misses has gone to the Goldcoast with her family so I might start on drilling out the dash and wiring it in this week.
Maybe hookup the trim pump.

 

[Jimmy]

Roughly marked out the dash.

Was going to cut it out but missing a 82mm holesaw for the tacho.
By the time u put in a steering wheel and navigator seat there's not much room on the dash to put much.
I thought of maybe getting some of them Can Mount gauges but I thought it would look wanky.

So I'm running a
Tacho
Coolant temp
Oil pressure
Volts
Hrs
And for switches
Fuel pump on/off
Coolant Temp pos1/pos2 (switching between cylinder heads)
Bilge Pump on/off
Bilge Blower on/off
Wet Exhaust on/off/auto (auto will come on at ~2000rpm of the engine)

I'll sneak the ignition between the steering wheel n tacho and put a cigarette lighter in somewhere where it fits.

Stereo can go in the side wall between the navi and back seat. Wouldn't mind a GPS in there somewhere but that's years off.

 

[Taboma]

Roughly marked out the dash.
View attachment 529821
Was going to cut it out but missing a 82mm holesaw for the tacho.
By the time u put in a steering wheel and navigator seat there's not much room on the dash to put much.
I thought of maybe getting some of them Can Mount gauges but I thought it would look wanky.
View attachment 529822
So I'm running a
Tacho
Coolant temp
Oil pressure
Volts
Hrs
And for switches
Fuel pump on/off
Coolant Temp pos1/pos2 (switching between cylinder heads)
Bilge Pump on/off
Bilge Blower on/off
Wet Exhaust on/off/auto (auto will come on at ~2000rpm of the engine)

I'll sneak the ignition between the steering wheel n tacho and put a cigarette lighter in somewhere where it fits.

Stereo can go in the side wall between the navi and back seat. Wouldn't mind a GPS in there somewhere but that's years off.

If it helps, no need for the hour meter on the dash, mine and most I've seen are mounted back by the engine.

 

[Jimmy]

If it helps, no need for the hour meter on the dash, mine and most I've seen are mounted back by the engine.

There's a spot up the nose of the boat where I'm thinking of putting the fuses I can put it.

 

[Jimmy]

Finally after 3 days of ringing the guy the piece of the puzzle has turned up.
I pressed the new bushes off the other one in and tomorrow night I'll give it a birthday.
Take2 of engine going in will be Sunday.
I'll start bolting up most of what I can over the next few nights after work.

 

[Jimmy]

We got the donk in, excavator made it easy. Also changed the oil and filter before it went in.

Had to take to one of the bulkheads with the grinder, it was right where the cross member goes. The engine sits farther back and down than the Chrysler drive.
So I was itching the whole day, it hit 100F @ 22% humidity at 4pm, it was yuck.

Also had issues with the coupling bolts fouling on the bell housing cover. Went to turn it over with a spanner and gee it was tight.
It's because the 400 Chev's are externally balanced with a balance plate which packs the flywheel out ~4mm (1/8 inch)
So I put thinner washers behind the 3 coupling bolts and ground a bit off the bolt heads, that got it within 1mm (1/32 inch) from hitting the cover.
Then we packed the bell housing out off the block with 2mm (1/16inch) washer flat washers to make good clearance.


Used a yoke and spline to get the alignment right with the gimble bearing, only gets firm when it gets to the last oring grove (that's without orings) then u can just thumb it in.
Is that because the splines a neat fit in the gimble bearing?

I need rear feet mounts off the bell housing cover? Because I don't really have that much real-estate back there to get another cross member and rubber bushings?
Comments are appreciated.

 

[HST4ME]

That's good enough on the alignment, rubber couplers are always off a little due to the nature of the beast. I'd have an aluminum shim of the needed thickness made to fit between the bellhousing and the block somewhere along the line.

 

[Jimmy]

That's good enough on the alignment, rubber couplers are always off a little due to the nature of the beast. I'd have an aluminum shim of the needed thickness made to fit between the bellhousing and the block somewhere along the line.

There is a mercuiser plate that'll pack it out but I ain't pulling the flywheel off to put it on, stuff that.

 

[Headless hula]

No more required supports jimmy.
Dunno why those "bolt slots" are in the flywheel cover.

 

[HST4ME]

I'm sure I have enough thunderbolt v stuff to fix you up. It'll treat you a lot better than the auto HEI. I'll be sending a couple powerheads back under I can throw it in the shipping mix.

 

[Jimmy]

I'm sure I have enough thunderbolt v stuff to fix you up. It'll treat you a lot better than the auto HEI. I'll be sending a couple powerheads back under I can throw it in the shipping mix.

Yeah I've had a few comments about that HEI distributor. Same with that intake manifold, I'll look at getting rid of them once it's all going.

Here's a quick drawing of how I'm going to wire it. Is it close to right?

I'm going to ditch the second temp gauge and put a over temp warning sender in that cylinder head instead to bring a dash light on.
I'm not sure if I need a exciter light for the alternator or how to wire it in?

 

[Jimmy]

Next job is chopping up the exhaust to get it to fit the hull.

I've got a 140mm (5 1/2") gap to sneak them through.

So that gives me 50mm (2").

Can anyone see a issue with cutting the primaries here? Only issue I can see is it doesn't give me much room for weep holes for water before it hits the valves.

 

[Jimmy]

Picked up some gear for the dash. I'm thinking of using a thin sheet of checker plate, should look pretty sweet. I'll suss out the checker plate tomorrow.

I'm not totally sure how to wire up the alternator but it looks relatively simple.


Few questions I gotta look into.
At what temp should the coolant warning light come on?
Edit: 110C or 230F

What temp thermostat should I have or start with? I've heard of guys drilling bypass holes in them too.
Edit: 70C or 160F

At what pressure should the low oil pressure light come on?
Edit: 20psi

 

[Jimmy]

#Aussie Chopshop

There was a lot of rooting around to get them to fit.
Nearly had to reverse engineer them.
They are obviously originally homemade manifolds, they're all a bit outta whack if ya OCD. But if u stand back the look pretty good.

 

[Jimmy]

Now for the money shots.

 

[Headless hula]

Now for the money shots.
View attachment 531077 View attachment 531078 View attachment 531079 View attachment 531080

Come on man! Stuff that drive in it and get yo azz to the lake! !!!


Lookin good jimmy!

 

[Jimmy]

Come on man! Stuff that drive in it and get yo azz to the lake! !!!


Lookin good jimmy!

The drives getting a new skeg put on it this weekend.
The props really the last thing left to get, that'll put a dint the wallet.
I got a good cashy coming up but I gotta do it before I can finish the boat, so that's a few days of not working on it.
Works put me on a 4 day week so that slow it up a bit too.
I'll be itching at Easter.

 

[Headless hula]

When I first looked at your post with the pictures, I was concentrating on the boat. After taking another look, the countryside is absolutely gorgeous man. Wow!

 

[Wombat]

When I first looked at your post with the pictures, I was concentrating on the boat. After taking another look, the countryside is absolutely gorgeous man. Wow!

Victoria is not bad BUT NSW is much better.

 

[Jimmy]

Victoria is not bad BUT NSW is much better.

Said no one ever

 

[Jimmy]

When I first looked at your post with the pictures, I was concentrating on the boat. After taking another look, the countryside is absolutely gorgeous man. Wow!

It's dry as a chip at the moment. Stew has a good view hey! That's the side of town I wanted to build but it was going to cost too much for a first house.

 

[HST4ME]

If that is a 400 run a 160 t stat and I'd set the light to come on at 185. 15 psi for the oil light.

 

[Jimmy]

If that is a 400 run a 160 t stat and I'd set the light to come on at 185. 15 psi for the oil light.

Yeah I rang my local marine guy the other day and he said the same thing.
He's just chasing up his suppliers because some of the gear in the book wasn't coming up on the computer.
There's a marine kit there that's got a low pressure of 15psi or 5psi but we decided to play it safe and get the 15psi.
I can't remember the overtemp I think it may have been a little higher than 185f
We'll run the 160f t stat too start with might have to drill bypass hole in it but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it.

 

[coolchange]

Love the color. Enjoying following the build. I bet it will be a bullet.
For headers for that type of install I've always thought a block hugger hot rod type header turned over would be an economical way to get it done. Wrap it in header wrap and add a 90 degree then back after the collector. Would be easy to double wall and water jacket. Wouldnt have the long tube torque though. Waiting to see the water tests!

 

[Jimmy]

Nothing to exciting, but it's progress.
Mounted the raw water pump and put tabs to drill and tap the last of the floor down.
Back half of the carpet will go down tomorrow so I can start mounting the rest of the shit.

Had to get a inverted water pump pulley so the belts will line up.


Little stuck on how I'm going to mount the alternator.
I'll see if this bracket will work... somehow, if not I'll take it back and I'll have to manufacture something.

That's the best photo I got but I can't even see what side it was mounted on.

 

[Jimmy]

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've had a balls up. I've changed the carby and the linkage operates the other way to the old one (see above pic) the new one pushes from the back.
I've already bought the cable and it's 5ft too short.
Can I just swing it 180 deg?
The new one doesn't have a chock horn so I can't see flow being a issue and it's a square bore intake manifold.

 

[HST4ME]

Just move the pivot ball to the top of the linkage.

 

[white tortilla]

you can just rotate the carb 180*

 

[Jimmy]

you can just rotate the carb 180*

That was my first thought. I rang a few guys and they said it shouldn't matter as long as its still level and it's got bowls/floats on both ends.

Just move the pivot ball to the top of the linkage.

U need to be paid more HST4ME haha

 

[Jimmy]

The issues keep coming. I've put the water pump on the wrong side [emoji28] . The alternator can't go the left side, it'll hit the fuel pump mount.

 

[Jimmy]

So I spent most of today trying to make strawberry jam out of this pump bracket


Got the back half of the carpet in.

I'll make a small piece of aluminium angle here so the new carpet doesn't get wrapped around the pulleys... I'd imagine it would carry on a bit [emoji14]

All the pluming will go this side because both pump outlets face this way.

Trim pump, battery box, shift assembly, drive reservoir can go on this side.


I'm hoping to have everything screwed down and the dash in and maybe start on the wiring tomorrow.

 

[Jimmy]

 

[Jimmy]

That actually looks quite effective I might do that the whole length of the stringers and every where else that has a rolled edge.

 

[HST4ME]

That's a lot of numbers on that measuring stick

 

[Jimmy]

That's a lot of numbers on that measuring stick

Dem numbers don't work round dees parts.

 

[Jimmy]

Dash come up pretty good.
The misses claims the checker plate was all her idea.

 

[Jimmy]

Thoughts???
Do I need to beef up the engine mounts? I've used grade 8, 1/2" thread. Just I've had comments elsewhere that they mightn't be enough.
And another thing I'm not real keen on is the Grade 316 Stainless 1/2" bolt I've gone through the stringer.
But everywhere else is Grade 8.

 

[HST4ME]

Somewhere down there there has to be a set of 'Cruiser engine mounts. Those don't make me feel all warm and fuzzy.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mercruis...562402?hash=item25cd43cc22:g:-Z8AAOSw5cNYeaFe

 

[Jimmy]

Somewhere down there there has to be a set of 'Cruiser engine mounts. Those don't make me feel all warm and fuzzy.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mercruis...562402?hash=item25cd43cc22:g:-Z8AAOSw5cNYeaFe

I got a mechanical engineer mate, I might get him to come check it out, get a professional opinion.

 

[4Waters]

That does look at little scary. If you got a piece of solid bar stock 1.250 or 1.5 in put it in a lathe and drill a hole in the center sink on both ends for the nuts slide it over the all thread put the rubber isolator between the sleeve and motor plate that would be a lot stronger.

 

[yz450mm]

That does look at little scary. If you got a piece of solid bar stock 1.250 or 1.5 in put it in a lathe and drill a hole in the center sink on both ends for the nuts slide it over the all thread put the rubber isolator between the sleeve and motor plate that would be a lot stronger.

This was my thought as well. However, if you dont have a lathe, and if you could find a grade 8 half inch bolt long enough, you might be able to use one inch .250 wall aluminum tubing in between to strengthen it.

 

[Jimmy]

That does look at little scary. If you got a piece of solid bar stock 1.250 or 1.5 in put it in a lathe and drill a hole in the center sink on both ends for the nuts slide it over the all thread put the rubber isolator between the sleeve and motor plate that would be a lot stronger.

This was my thought as well. However, if you dont have a lathe, and if you could find a grade 8 half inch bolt long enough, you might be able to use one inch .250 wall aluminum tubing in between to strengthen it.

What I'd do is measure as it sits now bottom of the foot to the bottom of the rubber.
Undo the pre-load off the rubber bush.
Measure from the top of the rubber to the bottom of the foot and that will be my sleeve length.
Do away with the 2 nuts put the sleeve in and pre-load the the rubber back to first measurement.

 

[Jimmy]

 

[Jimmy]

Made the wiring loom.

 

[yz450mm]

What I'd do is measure as it sits now bottom of the foot to the bottom of the rubber.
Undo the pre-load off the rubber bush.
Measure from the top of the rubber to the bottom of the foot and that will be my sleeve length.
Do away with the 2 nuts put the sleeve in and pre-load the the rubber back to first measurement.
View attachment 532524

I can't see the attachment, but I can see your drawing, and I like this design much better. Make sure you use grade 8 washers between the castle nuts and the aluminum mounts. Keeping that assembly tight will be key, so I wouldn't be afraid to use a second Jam nut if I were you. Probably Overkill, but might be worth it.

 

[Jimmy]

I can't see the attachment, but I can see your drawing, and I like this design much better. Make sure you use grade 8 washers between the castle nuts and the aluminum mounts. Keeping that assembly tight will be key, so I wouldn't be afraid to use a second Jam nut if I were you. Probably Overkill, but might be worth it.

Yeah I've left a heap of thread underneath, so I can sneak another nyloc nut on top and bottom.
I'll see what my buddy says, I reckon he'll agree.

 

[Jimmy]

UNOFFICIAL ENGINEERS REPORT:
Quote
Fuck me!! That bolt arrangement is pretty dodgy and provides no sideways rigidity. The bolts will last a while but will fatigue eventually through flexing so the sleeves should go back on for stability and pure tension on the bolts.
I would use 316 bolts or all thread as it is corrosion resistant, tough and has a tensile strength of 70,000 psi.

You should definitely keep the bushes and the sleeves like you have drawn. Those long bolts will fatigue without sleeves and rubber bushes.



Ps I would make the sleeve diameter as large a practical if you intend making some



That looks good and the ball joints will take out much of the lateral stresses. If you want to extend them you can use an all thread coupling and screw another bolt or allthread in the other side of the coupling. You basically make a longer bolt.