Thank you! Yes they are welded to the inner pipe in several sections to dam up the water and spill over on the top side to keep the entire pipe surrounded by water. I leave a small gap on the bottom to allow a little bit of the water to pass by.
Only the inner
You are referring to the rings right?
Yes. I cut them to size and in half, then weld them to the inner pipe leaving a small opening on the bottom so hot water doesn't get trapped at the bottom.
So, you went "dry tails"? Were you concerned about possible reversion issues? They look great!
Thank you!
Thank you bud
Nice, seems you went a little heavier Guage then most? I think most of the other mfg.'s use .090". What did you use for slosh control?
Thank you! I went with this thickness for durability. I used 3/16" material for the end caps which will be used to secure the tanks to my gunnel supports. I have noticed after doing welding on a lot of IMCO tanks, adding extra fitting and building new tanks to replace old belly tanks, that most of them are built using .125 thick material for larger capacity. The walls don't flex as much and you can get a really nice weld. I chose not to run a baffle in these tanks.
Yes. Going to be a blown 548 now
. Thank you Barry for sharing your knowledge and experience with the rest of us DIY guys!
Glad it made enough sense for it to work out. You could also mill a round area, but square is how my current machinist friend prefers to do it.Bought a new billet timing cover and a new Ram Force water pump for the motor I'm going to put in the Howard. I was trying to pick some brains on how to setup the cam thrust for the new setup and also searched around on here for a topic and happened to find one that @obnoxious001 had posted a few years back. He showed a very detailed step by step process on how he did it and also provided part numbers for the items he used. I ordered those same parts, pulled out the micrometers and calipers and started on it. After measuring everything several times and also mocking things up several times I went ahead and machined the back side of my timing cover. Once that was done I put it all back in place again and double checked that I had the clearance I wanted. Came out perfect
Yeah square is easier to do on a manual machine
but if you rotate the square( or the timing cover) 45 degrees, you miss the bolt holes. not a big deal but something to tuck away for next time.
Yeah lol I wasn't thinking about that when I did it lol
Very good point, mine are done that way to keep the strength intact. I didn't look at his photo that closely, I was just happy I had shared something that has worked so well for me.
Still have .350 thickness on the cover for pump mount. Didn't think that far ahead before cutting the pocket
I still have some trailer upgrades I need you to take care of...I will be in touch soon to get on your schedule this winter.
Sounds good bud
Thank you!!
Thank you
Man that sure looks good!! I have a minor critique and these details are stupid small. Feel free to ignore them!!
.
