1 week sale / 20 Schiada turned Project Schiada

[Marko]

Let me ask you guys this,

Say I fill the hole for the rudder, and want to move the new hole closer to the transom, will this effect the handling of the boat any different?

Nice! That solves your clearance problem right?

 

[rivergames]

I was looking at this on my phone and missed all the previous posts and pictures :smackhead I'm an idiot, please carry on as normal

You've hooked it up with some great info so far. Keep it comin bud:thumbsup


I forgot to add these pics last week when I finished it up

 

[FrznJim]

Out of curiousity what is the strut angle in that boat? and have you considered flipping it and straightening the bottom?

I'm enjoying the progress of this build/rebuild.

Racey asked the first question above, but not sure if it was ever answered. The reason I ask is I have a 21RC, 8.5 degree strut angle, 850 hp and it's an 85 mph boat, also have a 21RC. 7.5 degree strut, 1050 hp and it's a 100 mph boat. Also, what is the hp of the blower motor?

PS. I profess to know nothing about the setup for a 20.

 

[rivergames]

I'm enjoying the progress of this build/rebuild.

Racey asked the first question above, but not sure if it was ever answered. The reason I ask is I have a 21RC, 8.5 degree strut angle, 850 hp and it's an 85 mph boat, also have a 21RC. 7.5 degree strut, 1050 hp and it's a 100 mph boat. Also, what is the hp of the blower motor?

PS. I profess to know nothing about the setup for a 20.

My blower motor is probably making somewhere between 800-850 HP.

I need to get a angle finder to find out the angle.

Hey Racey, If I am getting a strut made, Should I get the shaft log hole filled as well? I don't know if I need to adjust the angle yet or not

 

[djunkie]

My blower motor is probably making somewhere between 800-850 HP.

I need to get a angle finder to find out the angle.

Hey Racey, If I am getting a strut made, Should I get the shaft log hole filled as well? I don't know if I need to adjust the angle yet or not

Since you have the motor out now is a good time to dyno it. Knowing the hp and torque #'s might help with setting everything up.

 

[Racey]

The shallower the angle the better, if you change the shaft angle most likely you will have to fill the hole in the boat. You should be shooting for somewhere around 8 degrees OR LESS. :thumbsup. If you were to imagine a shaft aiming 90 degrees all it does is lift the back of the boat and never drive it forward, as you tilt it shallower and shallower more and more energy goes into driving the boat forward, and less and less goes into thrusting the boat upward.

Be prepared though, changing the strut angle means re-mounting the v-drive, and possibly having to lengthen the prop shaft if the v-drive has to move forward to clear the bilge, which could also mean a longer drive line, and more than likely shimming or re-doing the motor mounts to adjust to that new angle.

In the end though the results will be much better for the boat with the proper strut angle.

 

[Marko]

Why dont more people use 8* v- drives ? Wouldnt that help?

 

[steveo143]

Why dont more people use 8* v- drives ? Wouldnt that help?

In 40+ years of being around v-drives, I have only seen one 8* Casale. Cost new, lack of available used gears etc. 10* seem to be about right for most installations.

 

[Racey]

Why dont more people use 8* v- drives ? Wouldnt that help?

Not really, all it would do is put the motor lower in the boat, which 90% of the time wouldn't do any good since the pan wouldn't clear, and you'd probably have to pull the motor to change the starter or If you were to leave the motor and v-drive in the same location but swap to an 8 degree and only change the strut the end of the prop shaft would be way too close to the bottom of the boat, which would make it pretty much useless.


If you have an 8 degree v-drive with an 8 degree strut that means the driveline of the boat, and centerline of the crank would basically run parallel with the stringers/keel.

 

[rivergames]

The shallower the angle the better, if you change the shaft angle most likely you will have to fill the hole in the boat. You should be shooting for somewhere around 8 degrees OR LESS. :thumbsup. If you were to imagine a shaft aiming 90 degrees all it does is lift the back of the boat and never drive it forward, as you tilt it shallower and shallower more and more energy goes into driving the boat forward, and less and less goes into thrusting the boat upward.

Be prepared though, changing the strut angle means re-mounting the v-drive, and possibly having to lengthen the prop shaft if the v-drive has to move forward to clear the bilge, which could also mean a longer drive line, and more than likely shimming or re-doing the motor mounts to adjust to that new angle.

In the end though the results will be much better for the boat with the proper strut angle.

Every hole in the stringers will be filled. So I plan or positioning the v-drive to how the new strut lines up. I really do not want to patch the shaft log hole though. If it is patched right, will it be strong enough to accept a new hole?

 

[Community]

I would apply it yourself since you can flip it. Buy a couple of rattle cans and some masking tape....

 

[rivergames]

I would apply it yourself since you can flip it. Buy a couple of rattle cans and some masking tape....

Hey Gary,

Kevin @ KMG is taking care of me on the speed coat. He really is going above and beyond to meet my budget that I assessed prior to the build.
He needs to make some patches on the bottom so it will already be ready to go at his shop

 

[Racey]

Every hole in the stringers will be filled. So I plan or positioning the v-drive to how the new strut lines up. I really do not want to patch the shaft log hole though. If it is patched right, will it be strong enough to accept a new hole?

Yes it should be more than strong enough, i'm no glass guy, but i imagine they will have to grind it all out and put new glass in and taper it all out.....

 

[rivergames]

Yes it should be more than strong enough, i'm no glass guy, but i imagine they will have to grind it all out and put new glass in and taper it all out.....

Right on, so should the guys at Schiada know where how far I should install a strut off of the transom?

 

[Racey]

Right on, so should the guys at Schiada know where how far I should install a strut off of the transom?

You can call lee or stan, or maybe they will chime in here, but it should be pretty close to where you have it now, the washplate length should be about 22".

While the boat is upside down you should definitely route one into the hull, it's pretty easy and simple to do with a router. 3/16" washplate should be sufficient.

 

[Marko]

In 40+ years of being around v-drives, I have only seen one 8* Casale. Cost new, lack of available used gears etc. 10* seem to be about right for most installations.

I had never seen one myself till I went to look at a TR-2 that Bergeron had for sale. It had an 8* in it and it was a drag boat. He said they used em to lower the motor, seemed odd for a drag boat.:headscratch:

 

[rivergames]

You can call lee or stan, or maybe they will chime in here, but it should be pretty close to where you have it now, the washplate length should be about 22".

While the boat is upside down you should definitely route one into the hull, it's pretty easy and simple to do with a router. 3/16" washplate should be sufficient.

I need to know the location of the strut before I can add the plate. I will probably route one in when I bring it back to my shop and get the strut in place. To make a blast plate for a v-hull, do I use one plate and bend it in the center to match the contour of the bottom?

 

[milkmoney]

keep looking for some new updates andrew.. keep'em comin..:thumbsup

 

[rivergames]

keep looking for some new updates andrew.. keep'em comin..:thumbsup

Thanks bud. I will have the boat back in 2 weeks. Then the fun begins to re-rig her arty2:

 

[rivergames]

The trailer is now with Trevor @ Hampton trailers. I am getting a new bow stand, new tounge, new steps and polished fenders.

Once the trailer work is finished, I will prep and shoot it with some red paint

 

[Marko]

:thumbsup

 

[beaverfab]

River strut came Monday checks 8.8 deg. Call me when you can and we can talk about what you want. thanks j.j.

 

[schiadastan]

River strut came Monday checks 8.8 deg. Call me when you can and we can talk about what you want. thanks j.j.

8.8 is too much. i did not read all the thread, but what do you want the boat to do and how much (real power) are you going to put into this 20.
stock power i would put the strut no more than 8, more like 7 3/4 deg.
the rear of the barrel 22 to 24" from the transom, and make sure the prop that you are going to start of with do's not hit the bottom of the boat.
you can joke now but i have seen it.

 

[rivergames]

8.8 is too much. i did not read all the thread, but what do you want the boat to do and how much (real power) are you going to put into this 20.
stock power i would put the strut no more than 8, more like 7 3/4 deg.
the rear of the barrel 22 to 24" from the transom, and make sure the prop that you are going to start of with do's not hit the bottom of the boat.
you can joke now but i have seen it.

Hey Stan, Can you PM me your number. I would like to give you a call and pick your brain a bit

 

[schiadastan]

Hey Stan, Can you PM me your number. I would like to give you a call and pick your brain a bit

Shop 818-904-6737
cel 818-441-8555

 

[beaverfab]

Where are you on what you want to do with the strut? Sorry but site will not let me send you a PM. thanks j.j.

 

[rivergames]

Where are you on what you want to do with the strut? Sorry but site will not let me send you a PM. thanks j.j.

Hey JJ,

The strut needs to be at 8*. I am going to go 1-1/8" prop shaft. The bottom is around 1-1/2" - 2" thick.

 

[rivergames]

Just want to give a :thumbsup to Trevor @ Hampton Trailers for hooking my trailer up.

Trevor did the following to the trailer:
-new Steel steps
-new Polished stainless fenders
-new lights on steps
-new bow stand and winch
-moved the jack to the side of the trailer
-New hitch
-I also have new diamond plate that I will glue to the steps once I paint the trailer.

new work done to trailer

 

[milkmoney]

looking good andrew, cant wait to see the boat when u get it back. :thumbsup

 

[Sawtooth]

Trailer looks great, any progress pics from KMG on how the boat is coming.

 

[Jet-Daytona]

Is that a Trail-Rite Trailer?

 

[rivergames]

Is that a Trail-Rite Trailer?

title says competitive

 

[rivergames]

Trailer looks great, any progress pics from KMG on how the boat is coming.

Nope, But I am picking the boat up this week :champagne:

looking good andrew, cant wait to see the boat when u get it back. :thumbsup

Thanks Bud :thumbsup

 

[RiverDave]

Tell Kevin to e-mail you some pics!

RD

 

[rivergames]

Tell Kevin to e-mail you some pics!

RD

Just got off the phone with him. He is finishing up a few areas and then sending some pics over. Updates coming soon :thumbsup

Through this week, I am going to build a dolly so It will be easier to work on the boat.

Then I need to weld a hinge on my spare tire mount.

Then re-pack the bearings on the trailer

 

[vstdispatch]

andrew where are the pics its almost been 3 hours:champagne:

 

[rivergames]

andrew where are the pics its almost been 3 hours:champagne:

You will have enough pics to last you through the rest of the winter in approx 144 hours counting down from now

 

[RiverDave]

Just got off the phone with him. He is finishing up a few areas and then sending some pics over. Updates coming soon :thumbsup

Through this week, I am going to build a dolly so It will be easier to work on the boat.

Then I need to weld a hinge on my spare tire mount.

Then re-pack the bearings on the trailer

Shoulda just had Trevor do all that bullshit too.. I'm tellin you.. The quality vs the price it's cheaper to send it to the pro's.

RD

 

[rivergames]

Shoulda just had Trevor do all that bullshit too.. I'm tellin you.. The quality vs the price it's cheaper to send it to the pro's.

RD

As far as the bearings, I like doing that shit. But the hinge on the spare tire was overlooked. He did give me the pin for it though :thumbsup

I wont have the boat for a week. I need something to do :bash:

 

[Sawtooth]

Hey Andrew not trying to be a hater here but upon looking closer at the mount for your new safety cables you really need to change that bolt that is holding them. The reason I say this is the sheer point would be the threads of the bolt if the cables ever came into use, you need a bolt that the sholder goes all the way through the mount. I don't remember what they are called something like aircraft comes to mind, somebody here will know what they are called. My Dad had his boat/trailer come off the truck hitch coming out of his driveway a few years back and it straightend out the clips on the truck end and sheered the bolts on the trailer end, and this was only going about 10 MPH.......the outcome was not pretty as the boat/trailer went past the truck and down the street (about a 10% grade).

PS thanks for the heads up on the trailer tounge/break set up Mfg. and model #.

 

[rivergames]

Here is a little teaser shot for you guys. Kevin is going to send me more pics once he shoots the floors black today.

This is a pic of the 6" wide flat keel pad that runs from the transom to the bulkhead.

 

[rivergames]

Hey Andrew not trying to be a hater here but upon looking closer at the mount for your new safety cables you really need to change that bolt that is holding them. The reason I say this is the sheer point would be the threads of the bolt if the cables ever came into use, you need a bolt that the sholder goes all the way through the mount. I don't remember what they are called something like aircraft comes to mind, somebody here will know what they are called. My Dad had his boat/trailer come off the truck hitch coming out of his driveway a few years back and it straightend out the clips on the truck end and sheered the bolts on the trailer end, and this was only going about 10 MPH.......the outcome was not pretty as the boat/trailer went past the truck and down the street (about a 10% grade).

PS thanks for the heads up on the trailer tounge/break set up Mfg. and model #.

Thanks for the tip. I will look around the aircraft colt you mentioned :thumbsup

 

[Community]

Here is a little teaser shot for you guys. Kevin is going to send me more pics once he shoots the floors black today.

This is a pic of the 6" wide flat keel pad that runs from the transom to the bulkhead.

Should make it a bit easier to mount the drop through. Looking forward to seeing more pics. What color did oyu add on the outside?

 

[rivergames]

Should make it a bit easier to mount the drop through. Looking forward to seeing more pics. What color did oyu add on the outside?

SchiadaStan gave me the advice. Reason being, I am pretty much starting fresh on the rigging. I don't have to worry about guessing where to install a pad. This flat pad will be great when installing my rudder, strut, shaft log, and turn fin.

On one of the pages in this thread, I drew a little example. I went with 1/4" red and 1/4" gray stripes

 

[Marko]

LOOKOUT!! Here comes that big SNOWBALL! You go boieeee! :thumbsup

 

[rivergames]

By Monday, you summa bitches will have some great BOAT PORN PICS!

 

[RiverDave]

By Monday, you summa bitches will have some great BOAT PORN PICS!

Looking forward to seeing it!

RD

 

[rivergames]

Looking forward to seeing it!

RD

O yea, I didn't mention the trailer is back at Trevors getting the back steps extended and adding the hinged spare tire mount

 

[Schiada Time]

Saw the trailer today at Trevors. Looks real good! My trailer is headed there Monday morning.

 

[420HOA]

LOOKOUT!! Here comes that big SNOWBALL! You go boieeee! :thumbsup

:rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao: