WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

1 week sale / 20 Schiada turned Project Schiada

AuggieBenDoggie

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I'm glad you're keeping her. When I was little, I would sit on the end of our dock and watch that 20' come in and out of the slip all day long. Very classic 20'
 

rivergames

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I'm glad you're keeping her. When I was little, I would sit on the end of our dock and watch that 20' come in and out of the slip all day long. Very classic 20'

Thanks bud :thumbsup

Would you happen to know anything about a strut repair that was done to it?
 

djunkie

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Thanks bud :thumbsup

Would you happen to know anything about a strut repair that was done to it?

I was just about to ask you whats going on around the strut. The glass looks real light right there.
 

rivergames

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I was just about to ask you whats going on around the strut. The glass looks real light right there.

It is a fricken ugly patch job. If I would have seen that before, I probably wouldn't have driven the boat for a whole year
 

Marko

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Already starting to snowball!! COOL!!!! :thumbsup
 

rivergames

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She is gutted. Within the next couple days, I am going to plug all the holes (except v-drive) in the stringers.

Then I need to fill the center of the boat up with water and figure out where the hell my water leak was.

Then I am going to cut the metal for my new stringer rails

Then I need to send her off to a fiberglass shop. Anyone have any numbers to a fiberglass guy that does quality work for a affordable price and can get it done in a time frame that doesn't take "just 2 more weeks"?

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Racey

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Putting in a strong internal strut brace will relieve almost all of the stress on the glass around that strut brace :thumbsup

They are not that expensive or difficult to make.
 

Mondorally

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What all are you looking to have done at the fiberglass shop?
 

rivergames

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Putting in a strong internal strut brace will relieve almost all of the stress on the glass around that strut brace :thumbsup

They are not that expensive or difficult to make.

I have been thinking about doing that, But I have to make sure the pan on my blower motor hit the brace.

I have to make a new motor mount anyways, so I could always life the motor up a bit
 

rivergames

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What all are you looking to have done at the fiberglass shop?

New bulkhead, adding lines on the outside of the boat and flow coat the inside.

I need someone to give the glass around the strut some attention as well
 

Marko

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Hey Andrew, looks good cleaned up!:thumbsup How are you gonna plug the stringer holes? I've never done it and wondered what the best way is.
If you raise the motor wont you have to realign the v-drive? I've heard its ok to not be lined up as long as you have the same angle on both ends of the driveshaft. Racey can probably chime in here.
 

rivergames

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Hey Andrew, looks good cleaned up!:thumbsup How are you gonna plug the stringer holes? I've never done it and wondered what the best way is.
If you raise the motor wont you have to realign the v-drive? I've heard its ok to not be lined up as long as you have the same angle on both ends of the driveshaft. Racey can probably chime in here.

Steps I am going to use to plug the holes:
-I am going to drill the holes larger than they already are.
-Get a few bags of wooden dowels from Home Depot
-Mix up some resin to dip the dowels in
-tap the resin soaked dowels into the stringer holes
-I am going to keep the gunnel side of the stringer flush with the stringers. Then the excess dowel that sticks out of the inner stringer will get cut off and sanded.


The motor is not supposed to be line up with the v-drive when running a u-joint. You don't want them lined up anything less than 2 degrees
 

Marko

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Thats exactly what I was thinking. I hadnt ever heard of the sawdust and resin deal. I always figured on cleaning the hole out with the next size bigger bit so the wood would be clean and smooth. :thumbsup
 

rivergames

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Thats exactly what I was thinking. I hadnt ever heard of the sawdust and resin deal. I always figured on cleaning the hole out with the next size bigger bit so the wood would be clean and smooth. :thumbsup

I think everyone has a different method on how to plug the holes. To me, it just seams like a dowel has a tight fit and if it is glued it, its not going anywhere.
 

vstdispatch

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wont you just end up bringing it to mark at B&K to do the work. that is where i would bring it and isnt that where you brought your cracker box? and if you bring it to mark everytime you come to check on your boat we can go get some cold ones since i live like ten min away:D:beer:beer
 

rivergames

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wont you just end up bringing it to mark at B&K to do the work. that is where i would bring it and isnt that where you brought your cracker box? and if you bring it to mark everytime you come to check on your boat we can go get some cold ones since i live like ten min away:D:beer:beer

They to the best work around. The only problem is that I want to boat this summer and not summer of 2012. They are really busy over there. I need to find someone that can knock this out pretty quick.

Some of my fellow cracker racers have a shop in Vegas. I am heading there the first week of January for our annual meeting. I might just bring it to Lee.
 

BadBlown572

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If you want a quality job at an affordable price call Joel @ Genesis. His # is 951-992-8685. Tell him I told you to give him a call. He will do it right and is reasonably priced in comparison to others out there. Give him a deadline that will work for you and he will have it done by that time.
 

rivergames

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If you want a quality job at an affordable price call Joel @ Genesis. His # is 951-992-8685. Tell him I told you to give him a call. He will do it right and is reasonably priced in comparison to others out there. Give him a deadline that will work for you and he will have it done by that time.

Thanks bud. I will keep Joel in mind.

Dave Sammons recommended me a guy down in San Diego that is pretty good. I think I might take the boat down to that guy this weekend for a quote.
 

Marko

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I think everyone has a different method on how to plug the holes. To me, it just seams like a dowel has a tight fit and if it is glued it, its not going anywhere.

Over on your PB thread RCL said they use Gorilla glue.
 

rivergames

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Over on your PB thread RCL said they use Gorilla glue.


Yea, I saw that after I posted here. I might use that, but then again, I just bought a bunch of resin. Fock if I know, I think I am just going to start drinking early after work and wing it :drnkfr
 

rivergames

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This is what I want to do to the outside of the boat. I want to do the same to the top white and black lines and bottom too

coloredgel.jpg
 

steveo143

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Andrew, give me a call if you need anything. I have a mill, bandsaw and lathe in the shop at home and a complete sheetmetal and polishing shop closeby. Might want to think about putting a new dropthru strut in it with proper bracing or at least making what you have better. I put a new dropthru from J.J. Beaver in my 19' GN. I think he charged 700 for the strut only made out of 1704 stainless. I made the topside stuff. I can give advise on fiberglass repairs also!

Steve Peterson 714 579-7857
 

Racey

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It looks like there may be something going on with that main bulkhead up in front of the drivers feet (the black spots) I would jack the nose of the trailer up nice and high, then let it down quickly to hear if there is any water trapped up underneath that front floor. We had a customers old 22 from that same era that we found was full of water that way. Accidentally dropped the jack too fast and heard this sloshing, drilled a 1/4" hole through the floor and pumped out a 5 gal bucket of nasty old rotten water.

If you don't hear the slosh you are probably fine, it's an easy detection method though :skull
 

vstdispatch

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andrew you might want to get rid of those water pick ups that go through the bottom floor of the boat. that was how mine use to be and one of them broke off and next thing you know you have a big hole in the bottom of your boat. so i just had mark fill in those holes and then i put my pickups on my cav plate. just my .02 cents
 

rivergames

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andrew you might want to get rid of those water pick ups that go through the bottom floor of the boat. that was how mine use to be and one of them broke off and next thing you know you have a big hole in the bottom of your boat. so i just had mark fill in those holes and then i put my pickups on my cav plate. just my .02 cents

Yup, those are coming off for sure. Pickups are better on the cav place since that is where the water is mostly at.
 

vstdispatch

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hey when are you leaving for the river for new years? i am leaving thursday sometime..
 

rivergames

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It looks like there may be something going on with that main bulkhead up in front of the drivers feet (the black spots) I would jack the nose of the trailer up nice and high, then let it down quickly to hear if there is any water trapped up underneath that front floor. We had a customers old 22 from that same era that we found was full of water that way. Accidentally dropped the jack too fast and heard this sloshing, drilled a 1/4" hole through the floor and pumped out a 5 gal bucket of nasty old rotten water.

If you don't hear the slosh you are probably fine, it's an easy detection method though :skull

The bulkhead is getting replaced since their is a cracker on both sides. But I will have my buddy shake the boat while I have my ear to the floor.
 

rivergames

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Anyone know what I can find this exact sea strainer?

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RiverDave

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This is what I want to do to the outside of the boat. I want to do the same to the top white and black lines and bottom too

coloredgel.jpg

Talk to Rick at Islander Andrew.. Everyone that has gone there has been happy with the outcome and the price. :)

RD
 

Sawtooth

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Wow a empty boat like that looks very familier:D, you might want to take an icepick or something like that and poke around a little in those holes in the top of the stringers that's where all the rot started in mine. Not trying to put a dark cloud over your project just that you have it down this far now would be the time. Good luck with the rest of it, here are a couple pics of what I found in mine, it's a '77

this is the hole that was in the floor under the carpet up under the deck, all the plywood subfloof was rotted from the bottom up from traped water like Racey mentioned
under deck subfloor.JPG

this is a piece of what was left of the driver side stringer
pic65.JPG
 

420HOA

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Wow a empty boat like that looks very familier:D, you might want to take an icepick or something like that and poke around a little in those holes in the top of the stringers that's where all the rot started in mine. Not trying to put a dark cloud over your project just that you have it down this far now would be the time. Good luck with the rest of it, here are a couple pics of what I found in mine, it's a '77

this is the hole that was in the floor under the carpet up under the deck, all the plywood subfloof was rotted from the bottom up from traped water like Racey mentioned
View attachment 132544

this is a piece of what was left of the driver side stringer
View attachment 132545

All fixable Sawtooth, All fixable !
 

rivergames

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Kevin does pretty bitchen work as well. :) I didn't think you would want to drive that far from up where your at.

RD

Kevin New my budget and said he will have it done when I need it. I'de drive pretty damn far to get that kinda serivce :thumbsup
 

rivergames

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Wow a empty boat like that looks very familier:D, you might want to take an icepick or something like that and poke around a little in those holes in the top of the stringers that's where all the rot started in mine. Not trying to put a dark cloud over your project just that you have it down this far now would be the time. Good luck with the rest of it, here are a couple pics of what I found in mine, it's a '77

this is the hole that was in the floor under the carpet up under the deck, all the plywood subfloof was rotted from the bottom up from traped water like Racey mentioned
View attachment 132544

this is a piece of what was left of the driver side stringer
View attachment 132545

Thats scary. I used a gasket pick and jammed it in the hole. Only one hole was a little soft, but it can be drilled to good wood
 

rivergames

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Last night I lifted the boat up to check the bottom

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Then pulled the cavitation hardware off. Those Fockin exhaust tips are epoxied onto the hull and do not want to come off. I used my heat gun and dead blow for 15 minutes on those pricks and they still did mot want to budge. Any ideas on how to get them off?

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djunkie

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Last night I lifted the boat up to check the bottom


Then pulled the cavitation hardware off. Those Fockin exhaust tips are epoxied onto the hull and do not want to come off. I used my head gun for 15 minutes on those pricks and they still didnt want to budge. Any ideas on how to get them off?

Maybe try one of these. :skull

jackhammer.jpg
 
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