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one of my other thoughts here was anyone that was headed in the dirrection of performace build,... might have used a dome type piston to up the compression????

not knowing whats done to the more is killing me..........................
 
monkeyswrench

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2FORCEFULL said:
one of my other thoughts here was anyone that was headed in the dirrection of performace build,... might have used a dome type piston to up the compression????

not knowing whats done to the more is killing me..........................
Click to expand...
Honestly, I've never seen pop-ups in a banger with a flathead still. I suspect it's due to the combustion chamber shape, and valve placement. The flame front does some weird stuff in a flat motor.

I did look it up, and the factory compression ratio was a massive 4.22:1, yielding 76psi on the gauge. So, you can make an adapter out of an old plug, or they used to sell spark plug adapters, and stuff a compression gauge on there. Once you find out your PSI in the cylinder, you can figure out the dynamic compression.
 
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monkeyswrench said:
Honestly, I've never seen pop-ups in a banger with a flathead still. I suspect it's due to the combustion chamber shape, and valve placement. The flame front does some weird stuff in a flat motor.

I did look it up, and the factory compression ratio was a massive 4.22:1, yielding 76psi on the gauge. So, you can make an adapter out of an old plug, or they used to sell spark plug adapters, and stuff a compression gauge on there. Once you find out your PSI in the cylinder, you can figure out the dynamic compression.
Click to expand...
the 4.22 is the model A, b motor with a C head is 4.6 or 4.8 and the b head is 5.22
 
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also, I got the 2'' lowering spring in the front.... lowered it 1.5, stock spring probley was sagging a half inch... they make a reverse eye rear thats 2.5 lower for the rear, so thats next...
 
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monkeyswrench said:
Sweet! Looks like an 8BA oil pump, plugged sump and drilled bottom cover. Looks brand new inside. Very cool to see stuff like this still exists.
Click to expand...
did you notice the sleeved cyls,?? so probley std. bore, that would explain why it runs up hill at only 140 degrees...
 
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I found AN ah shit, WTF!! and off coarse after I put the pan back on... can any one else see whats missing,... that and it all looked so good inside so I didn't plastic gauge the mains.... another ah shit.... (hint)... I'm trying to figure out and oil leak problem)


1681865049076-jpeg.1220434
 
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No cotter pins on the rear main?

As for running cooler, I've heard with inserts and oiling they run cooler. Could also be that the guys that do that stuff are also the ones that clean the block really well?
 
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monkeyswrench said:
No cotter pins on the rear main?

As for running cooler, I've heard with inserts and oiling they run cooler. Could also be that the guys that do that stuff are also the ones that clean the block really well?
Click to expand...
here's a hint.... look at the rear main...
 
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2FORCEFULL said:
s-l500.png




the rear main is missing the drain tube
Click to expand...
I wonder if the early style drain tube would interfere with the counterweight?
I know they have a different part number than a 30/31 drain tube, and both are 3/8ths...never understood why they had them. I guess if it ended below oil level, it could help keep oil in the rear main.
 
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monkeyswrench said:
I wonder if the early style drain tube would interfere with the counterweight?
I know they have a different part number than a 30/31 drain tube, and both are 3/8ths...never understood why they had them. I guess if it ended below oil level, it could help keep oil in the rear main.
Click to expand...
I think the one in the pic is bent where it screws in,... ,... the one I ordered is straight down and has the same bend on the end
 
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2FORCEFULL said:
I think the one in the pic is bent where it screws in,... ,... the one I ordered is straight down and has the same bend on the end
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20230421-185643_DuckDuckGo.jpg

Snyder's shows this one, but I couldn't find any side by side comparisons. I think the 28/29s were 1/4 pipe, and then they went to 3/8ths for the laters. That said, yours probably has insert bearings. It may not have a drain hole in line with the tube. At least that oil pan is easy to remove. Modern crap really makes you appreciate that stuff🤣
 
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monkeyswrench said:
View attachment 1221448
Snyder's shows this one, but I couldn't find any side by side comparisons. I think the 28/29s were 1/4 pipe, and then they went to 3/8ths for the laters. That said, yours probably has insert bearings. It may not have a drain hole in line with the tube. At least that oil pan is easy to remove. Modern crap really makes you appreciate that stuff🤣
Click to expand...
yeah, thaats the same one I ordered, that was the ah shit,... not checking the bearings...
 
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update, swapped out the tires to 750s rear and 550s front,

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also took the side hood panels off and made mounts out of door hindges so they can go back on if wanted...


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personalized plate...

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hand mounted the tires, what a bitch getting the tubes in those skinny rims...

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removed the front plate mount, wing windows and other doo dads from the front



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also.... after taking these pics I went to the shp andlowered the rear 2".... I heated the main leaf and bent the mounts....old school fast....
 
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monkeyswrench said:
View attachment 1221448
Snyder's shows this one, but I couldn't find any side by side comparisons. I think the 28/29s were 1/4 pipe, and then they went to 3/8ths for the laters. That said, yours probably has insert bearings. It may not have a drain hole in line with the tube. At least that oil pan is easy to remove. Modern crap really makes you appreciate that stuff🤣
Click to expand...
I finely got that pipe, back oredered every where...so I'll be dropping the pan again soon...also for got to note that you were right on the B head,... they were on the A motors as the police head.... all the after market heads I've found are 4 hole water pump, where as the b motor I have is 3
 
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2FORCEFULL said:
I finely got that pipe, back oredered every where...so I'll be dropping the pan again soon...also for got to note that you were right on the B head,... they were on the A motors as the police head.... all the after market heads I've found are 4 hole water pump, where as the b motor I have is 3
Click to expand...
So that's when Ford started with the Police Intercepter head🤣
 
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4Waters said:
So that's when Ford started with the Police Intercepter head🤣
Click to expand...
Useless info, Flathead V8 edition:
Ford made the "Denver" heads pre-war. Not factory installed, dealer part. Made for high altitude, thus the "Denver". I think they were a full point higher? Post war, there were aluminum "Canadian" heads, a touch higher compression than the Denvers, but factory installed.


Here's another fun 4 banger deal. Ed Winfield made cylinder heads in the 30's for A motors. Originally cast iron, and painted, yellow or red. Yellow ones were what we would call stage 1. Then there were Reds, and the "Super Redhead". I think the supers were 7.1:1...made for guys that new how to remove shims from main and rod caps.

I remember talking with old timers about racing in the early days...pre-war. A couple of them said if you had a head, some of the guys would wire a license plate bulb off their coil, to light up the engine bay. Through the hood louvers you'd see it wasn't stock.

Those guys have long since past. Hell, they were in their 80s when I met them in the 1990s. I was born to the wrong time, but at least my time overlapped with some truly epic car people.
 
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monkeyswrench said:
Useless info, Flathead V8 edition:
Ford made the "Denver" heads pre-war. Not factory installed, dealer part. Made for high altitude, thus the "Denver". I think they were a full point higher? Post war, there were aluminum "Canadian" heads, a touch higher compression than the Denvers, but factory installed.


Here's another fun 4 banger deal. Ed Winfield made cylinder heads in the 30's for A motors. Originally cast iron, and painted, yellow or red. Yellow ones were what we would call stage 1. Then there were Reds, and the "Super Redhead". I think the supers were 7.1:1...made for guys that new how to remove shims from main and rod caps.

I remember talking with old timers about racing in the early days...pre-war. A couple of them said if you had a head, some of the guys would wire a license plate bulb off their coil, to light up the engine bay. Through the hood louvers you'd see it wasn't stock.

Those guys have long since past. Hell, they were in their 80s when I met them in the 1990s. I was born to the wrong time, but at least my time overlapped with some truly epic car people.
Click to expand...
I knew Winfields grandson Patrick, he was a member of the Simi Valley A's and had lots of knowledge and a nice hotrod A. He passed away several years ago from cancer.
 
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monkeyswrench said:
Useless info, Flathead V8 edition:
Ford made the "Denver" heads pre-war. Not factory installed, dealer part. Made for high altitude, thus the "Denver". I think they were a full point higher? Post war, there were aluminum "Canadian" heads, a touch higher compression than the Denvers, but factory installed.


Here's another fun 4 banger deal. Ed Winfield made cylinder heads in the 30's for A motors. Originally cast iron, and painted, yellow or red. Yellow ones were what we would call stage 1. Then there were Reds, and the "Super Redhead". I think the supers were 7.1:1...made for guys that new how to remove shims from main and rod caps.

I remember talking with old timers about racing in the early days...pre-war. A couple of them said if you had a head, some of the guys would wire a license plate bulb off their coil, to light up the engine bay. Through the hood louvers you'd see it wasn't stock.

Those guys have long since past. Hell, they were in their 80s when I met them in the 1990s. I was born to the wrong time, but at least my time overlapped with some truly epic car people.
Click to expand...
I used to have a old photo album with my dad and his cars,.. he had a 36 ford with a carson top... and had pictures of him and gene winfield,...also as a kid my mom used to tell me when I was born they brought me home in a shoe box, took years of life to find out it was a winfield 50 ford custom.. my dad told me it had pop corn exhaust... straight duals with no mufflers... he said that they used to drill a hole at the end of the tail pipe and drop a 16 penny nail to hold a wad of steel wool to get the fix it ticket signed off.. for no mufflers... he said after a while the cops would stick their night stick in the tail pipe to check.... also used to tell about how they would use a pack of cigs to see if the car was to low...

my first wife decided to take the album, and all my growing up pics and throw them in the trash when she split...
 
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also been on the hunt for a coupe, and a pickup for my collection.....
 
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so on the way home from the shop, I stopped and topped off the fuel tank,... the stromberg seeped gas out of the bowl drain so I got new gasket kit to fix it, always smelled of fuel in the cab,....
so I get in the car and smell fuel???? I look at the fuel gauge and it's seeping fuel enought to where when you touch the gauge your finger would get wet..... so.... bright idea...... go ride around and use up enough fuel to get the level low enough to where it don't leak,... figured if I park it in the garage it would keep leaking alover the carpet.....

next bright idea.... theres a 6% grade right by my house....good way to use up some fuel, and see how fast it will go up the grade........FUCK!!!!!!! that was a bad idea.....
 
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They make neoprene gauge gaskets. The cork suck, but swell when they get fuel again. The neoprene tend to split with drying out and possibly ethanol. You might be able to pull the dash off, and tighten the lock ring a smidge. If you don't have a wrench, the old smooth jaw pipe wrenches work...won't chew it up like channel locks.
 
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monkeyswrench said:
They make neoprene gauge gaskets. The cork suck, but swell when they get fuel again. The neoprene tend to split with drying out and possibly ethanol. You might be able to pull the dash off, and tighten the lock ring a smidge. If you don't have a wrench, the old smooth jaw pipe wrenches work...won't chew it up like channel locks.
Click to expand...
I did that , but it still was weeping a little, so I was going to get a new float and gauge from snyders....they also sell the wrenches....
 
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so here's what happened......AH FUCK$%$$%#

I'm headed up the hill, all is fine... go across the bridge and start heading down the hill... I see smoke comming out from under the hood, figure the motor got a little hot, and heading down the grade it would cool.....got my elbow hanging out the window doing my best james dean... people to the left of me were all giving the thumbs up

I feel heat on my arm and look out the window... flames are coming out from under the hood all the way to the middle of the door,.. do my best to get stopped and off the road.... no fire extinguisher, took it out and set it on the garage floor.. under the hood looked like when your steaks are on fire on the bb/q.... the fire had just about burnned the rubber fuel line so I got to the fuel shut off and the battery shut off... just intime because it did burn the fuel line off the carb,,, the gas in the line help to make a nice bigger flame...so sitting there saying my good buys to the banger A, I figure I gotta try to put the fire out...I go in the cab and the padding on the floor and fire wall is burrnning also.... I yank all that out and had a stack of greese rags I took from the shop..... go back under the hood and start trying to smoother the rubber fires out...

I finale get the fires out with out the gas tank catching and exploading...

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look at the fuel line on the carb.......


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1683107963512.jpeg
 
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Sooooooooooooooooo, what happened? when I got the car... it had a big over flow tank bolted to the fire wall, didn't like it so I went to socal and bought a stainless tube that goes on the side of the radiator... the hose wasn't long enough to reach it the proper way, and it was the clear plastic swap cooler tubing...so I used what I had with the idea that the next day I would get some new black tubing and finish up... I zip tied it to the motor so it wouldn't get caught in the fan,, going up the hill the exhaust manifold must have heated up the tubing and let it get to the manifold and caught fire... the wind pushed the flame back and caught the plug wire on fire, an burned up the distriputor and fuel line...... you can see the overflow line burned on the water pump...

1683107963512-jpeg.1226013
 
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so I guess I got lucky,.. any way,.... got some work to do to get her back on the road...
 
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Glad you were able to get it extinguished but what a bummer.
 
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Oh shit! That was ugly, but could have been tragic. Glad the car is only wounded, and you aren't in the burn unit...I'm sure both of us have lost some skin and arm hair😂
It may have been a blessing you pulled your hoodsides. The flames were noticed, and not drafted under the car.
 
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monkeyswrench said:
Oh shit! That was ugly, but could have been tragic. Glad the car is only wounded, and you aren't in the burn unit...I'm sure both of us have lost some skin and arm hair😂
It may have been a blessing you pulled your hoodsides. The flames were noticed, and not drafted under the car.
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the fuck'n idiots driving next to me thought I had flame throwers under the hood...lol
 
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2FORCEFULL said:
damn , miss'd this post
Click to expand...

To be honest, I forgot I owned the car until your reply. 😂 Its parked in the back corner of the shop, out of sight and I forget its there. I need to drive it more!

Hope you get yours back on the road soon!
 
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started the parts ordering and clean up.... some good news... pulled the side cover and it has adjustable lifters... so far I got a new carb, distributor, plug wires, fuel lines and such... also ordered a tube header.... should be back on the road in 2 weeks.....LOL
 
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