87 Ford F250 feedback/ Yea or Nea Inmate Opinions Needed

[Backlash]

Oh man my OCD would have kicked in and I wouldn't have been able to crawl back out from underneath your truck!

I'm still finding areas of this pig that are filthy!

 

[Orange Juice]

Holy shit...

That thing has been leaking forever!

I’d start with an engine and tranny pull, and complete reseal if I was 16 again, and dad let me use his garage for a few weeks.

But I’m 62, and would just park in in the dirt, like the last owner.

And at least two anti theft devices.

 

[Willie B]

.., I have my doubts as to whether there is a do it yourself car wash in Rosarita Brach… But if there were ..,blow all the oil off the.underneath and up top …if there is any,……it would be a whole lot easier to see the leak… if everything were clean than the way it is now???..,

…Or… how about putting a bag of kitty litter under the truck where it is dripping… And just change the kitty litter every six months???.., just sayin???…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

I'm curious what the oil on the engine oil dipstick looks like?

Yeah that was first thing I checked when one of you fellas jumped in asking hows the oil level. Its full and super clean. the previous owner hwo did engine enhancements is super anal and said he cahnged it every 1k miles using Mobil 1 synthetic. Thats a bit over the top I'd guess. But he's that kinda dude. I'm also guessing this leak he just didn't have it in him to fix due to health issues that came up.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

I’d start with an engine and tranny pull, and complete reseal if I was 16 again, and dad let me use his garage for a few weeks.

But I’m 62, and would just park in in the dirt, like the last owner.

And at least two anti theft devices.

Ha.... now thats sage advice right there.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Oh man my OCD would have kicked in and I wouldn't have been able to crawl back out from underneath your truck!

I'm still finding areas of this pig that are filthy!





View attachment 1314482

Showoff... but Im still crushing on Fernando.... he can just keep leaking

 

[4Waters]

What LOF said, chrome valve covers and oil pans like to leak unless you RTV the shit out of them.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

What LOF said, chrome valve covers and oil pans like to leak unless you RTV the shit out of them.

"RTV" ?

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

.., I have my doubts as to whether there is a do it yourself car wash in Rosarita Brach… But if there were ..,blow all the oil off the.underneath and up top …if there is any,……it would be a whole lot easier to see the leak… if everything were clean than the way it is now???..,

…Or… how about putting a bag of kitty litter under the truck where it is dripping… And just change the kitty litter every six months???.., just sayin???…

Brilliant on both ideas.

 

[4Waters]

"RTV" ?

Silicone sealant

 

[Willie B]

Silicone sealant

… I think it’s called Siliconado in Mexico… but I could be wrong…

 

[Willie B]

Showoff... but Im still crushing on Fernando.... he can just keep leaking

View attachment 1314488

… With the vibe Fernando has… the Homies might call you a phony if he didn’t have a leak???…

… From the pic…Very cool to see that Fernando possibly has self driving capabilities there in traffic…

 

[rivermobster]

Yeah that was first thing I checked when one of you fellas jumped in asking hows the oil level. Its full and super clean. the previous owner hwo did engine enhancements is super anal and said he cahnged it every 1k miles using Mobil 1 synthetic. Thats a bit over the top I'd guess. But he's that kinda dude. I'm also guessing this leak he just didn't have it in him to fix due to health issues that came up.

Synthetic oil is very thin, and very slippery. It has no business in an old dinosaur engine.

It's meant for modern close tolerance, high tech engines. Change it out the first chance you get.

Old school, flat tappet engines, NEED zinc. Otherwise, you're gonna end up with a flat cam eventually.

The problem is...

It's tough to find zinc infused oil anymore. It's bad news for catalytic converters, so most places don't even sell it anymore. People are not aware of all the finer points of different engine oils.

Valvoline Racing would be a good place to start. It could possibly make your leak go away...

Valvoline VR1 Racing Motor Oil SAE 20W-50

From drag strips to paved and dirt ovals, racing performance demands race-level protection. Which is why motorsport teams and enthusiasts depend on Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil, America’s #1 racing oil. Our exclusive high zinc and phosphorus formula is engineered specifically for modern...

shop.valvolineglobal.com

You could also just run Delo. It also has a lot of zinc in it.

You'll have to do some homework to find a high zinc, conventional engine oil.

Maybe it's more available in messico?

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Yeah that was first thing I checked when one of you fellas jumped in asking hows the oil level. Its full and super clean. the previous owner hwo did engine enhancements is super anal and said he cahnged it every 1k miles using Mobil 1 synthetic. Thats a bit over the top I'd guess. But he's that kinda dude. I'm also guessing this leak he just didn't have it in him to fix due to health issues that came up.

By “changing” he meant refilling my friend.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Synthetic oil is very thin, and very slippery. It has no business in an old dinosaur engine.

It's meant for modern close tolerance, high tech engines. Change it out the first chance you get.

Old school, flat tappet engines, NEED zinc. Otherwise, you're gonna end up with a flat cam eventually.

The problem is...

It's tough to find zinc infused oil anymore. It's bad news for catalytic converters, so most places don't even sell it anymore. People are not aware of all the finer points of different engine oils.

Valvoline Racing would be a good place to start. It could possibly make your leak go away...

Valvoline VR1 Racing Motor Oil SAE 20W-50

From drag strips to paved and dirt ovals, racing performance demands race-level protection. Which is why motorsport teams and enthusiasts depend on Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil, America’s #1 racing oil. Our exclusive high zinc and phosphorus formula is engineered specifically for modern...

shop.valvolineglobal.com

You could also just run Delo. It also has a lot of zinc in it.

You'll have to do some homework to find a high zinc, conventional engine oil.

Maybe it's more available in messico?

Mobil 1 15w50 and Castrol GTX 20w50 both have extra zinc. Plus most of the diesel oils.

All available at Walmart. VR1 is available here and there at some Walmarts, but better luck finding it at auto parts places.

 

[rivermobster]

"RTV" ?

Room Temperature Vulcanizing

The problem with any type of sealant, is that you have to have a surgically clean surface to apply it to. And, it has to remain oil free, until it cures.

Let's say you are able to get everything perfectly clean, apply the stuff properly, torque everything properly, but...

You fire up the engine right away, and splash oil all over your perfect reseal job...

And now you wonder why your shit still leaks?

Permatex, The Right Stuff, is some of the best sealant out there, but it has to be used Properly.

 

[4Waters]

Synthetic oil is very thin, and very slippery. It has no business in an old dinosaur engine.

It's meant for modern close tolerance, high tech engines. Change it out the first chance you get.

Old school, flat tappet engines, NEED zinc. Otherwise, you're gonna end up with a flat cam eventually.

The problem is...

It's tough to find zinc infused oil anymore. It's bad news for catalytic converters, so most places don't even sell it anymore. People are not aware of all the finer points of different engine oils.

Valvoline Racing would be a good place to start. It could possibly make your leak go away...

Valvoline VR1 Racing Motor Oil SAE 20W-50

From drag strips to paved and dirt ovals, racing performance demands race-level protection. Which is why motorsport teams and enthusiasts depend on Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil, America’s #1 racing oil. Our exclusive high zinc and phosphorus formula is engineered specifically for modern...

shop.valvolineglobal.com

You could also just run Delo. It also has a lot of zinc in it.

You'll have to do some homework to find a high zinc, conventional engine oil.

Maybe it's more available in messico?

Rivermobster is correct. You can get ford diesel oil 15w40 has a lot of zinc but doesn't have any detergents in it as it's designed for the 7.3 powerstroke and it's injectors. The 10w30 diesel oil is NOT loaded with zinc as the newer diesels don't need it.

You can also buy a bottle of zinc and add it to your oil change

I added a half bottle of zinc every other oil change to my 7.3psd on top of the Ford oil and we also added it to my parents Model A.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Synthetic oil is very thin, and very slippery. It has no business in an old dinosaur engine.

It's meant for modern close tolerance, high tech engines. Change it out the first chance you get.

Old school, flat tappet engines, NEED zinc. Otherwise, you're gonna end up with a flat cam eventually.

The problem is...

It's tough to find zinc infused oil anymore. It's bad news for catalytic converters, so most places don't even sell it anymore. People are not aware of all the finer points of different engine oils.

Valvoline Racing would be a good place to start. It could possibly make your leak go away...

Valvoline VR1 Racing Motor Oil SAE 20W-50

From drag strips to paved and dirt ovals, racing performance demands race-level protection. Which is why motorsport teams and enthusiasts depend on Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil, America’s #1 racing oil. Our exclusive high zinc and phosphorus formula is engineered specifically for modern...

shop.valvolineglobal.com

You could also just run Delo. It also has a lot of zinc in it.

You'll have to do some homework to find a high zinc, conventional engine oil.

Maybe it's more available in messico?

Ding Ding Ding.... Master Level Post Of The Day. No shit.... I'm on it! Back to Valvoline eh, man it must be 45 years since I bought any when I had dirt bikes growing up. Great input right there my man.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Mobil 1 15w50 and Castrol GTX 20w50 both have extra zinc. Plus most of the diesel oils.

All available at Walmart. VR1 is available here and there at some Walmarts, but better luck finding it at auto parts places.

I have a close AutoZone and a Walmart so will look.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Room Temperature Vulcanizing

The problem with any type of sealant, is that you have to have a surgically clean surface to apply it to. And, it has to remain oil free, until it cures.

Let's say you are able to get everything perfectly clean, apply the stuff properly, torque everything properly, but...

You fire up the engine right away, and splash oil all over your perfect reseal job...

And now you wonder why your shit still leaks?

Permatex, The Right Stuff, is some of the best sealant out there, but it has to be used Properly.

You just flexing now baby. Love it. I think I'm going for the Kitty Litter in oil drip pan in garage method. Just keep an eye on oil levels each week kinda thing. Then change it to proper Zinc oil away from sythetic used previously, right? Sound about correct?

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Rivermobster is correct. You can get ford diesel oil 15w40 has a lot of zinc but doesn't have any detergents in it as it's designed for the 7.3 powerstroke and it's injectors. The 10w30 diesel oil is NOT loaded with zinc as the newer diesels don't need it.

View attachment 1314561

You can also buy a bottle of zinc and add it to your oil change

View attachment 1314562

I added a half bottle of zinc every other oil change to my 7.3psd on top of the Ford oil and we also added it to my parents Model A.

Solid, thanks my friend. On it at first change. Also will degrease and spray blast that crud outta there best I can .... Then I watch leak

 

[4Waters]

Solid, thanks my friend. On it at first change. Also will degrease and spray blast that crud outta there best I can .... Then I watch leak

You really should run a regular oil because it will have a detergent in it and it will help keep oil galleys and the lifters clean.

 

[rivermobster]

You just flexing now baby. Love it. I think I'm going for the Kitty Litter in oil drip pan in garage method. Just keep an eye on oil levels each week kinda thing. Then change it to proper Zinc oil away from sythetic used previously, right? Sound about correct?

Yes. And add dye into the fresh oil as well.

20-50w would be your best option.

 

[Your ad here]

You really dont need a dye to see where oil is leaking from. Look at the oil leak area. There will be a bunch of dirt stuck to the oil. Look for a clean trail of oil with no dirt in it. That's were the leak is at. The leaking area of fresh oil always leaves a clean trail.

 

[Willie B]

[QUOTE="rivermobster, post: 5017817, member: 3768

Permatex, The Right Stuff, is some of the best sealant out there, but it has to be used Properly.
[/QUOTE]
… I was told Hylomar or something like that is the best …from somebody down under… I used it decades ago… I remember it working great but now I don’t even remember what it is

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

You really should run a regular oil because it will have a detergent in it and it will help keep oil galleys and the lifters clean.

Appreciate that intel. And even though I've only driven maybe lets seeeeee Palm Desert to Newport in August and then basically 120 miles to Rosarito .... then errands 2 times a week over last 3 months ... I logged maybe 1K miles with a trip back to Newport and a short run down to Ensenada for Baja 1K.....I figure I've only logged maybe around 1K miles total.

I'll keep close eye on dipstick for levels and hit Fernando with your recommended Zinc love brand on a full filter change. I have a neighbor who claims to know how to change oil but I will use a pro shop locally regardless cause Fernando is my guy.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Bump... just keeping thread alive as I go through Fernando....We're past the leaking for now... I'll circle back after Holidays after DeGunking and blasting area down there. Now I'm onto understanding the Carb issue.... I posted the engine mods data earlier and will repost here.... so wondering what the previous owners reasoning was to go against builders " Strong" recommendation of a 750cfm carb was while the owner chose a 650cfm unit?

As always all you fellas with tech knowledge is appreciated.....

 

[Shlbyntro]

the 650 will make for better streetability as compared to the 750. I would have made the same choice for a daily driver. typically, the smaller the cfm rating the better an engine will idle and also the less it will stumble off the line. you are trading away top end performance for those features though

 

[rivermobster]

the 650 will make for better streetability as compared to the 750. I would have made the same choice for a daily driver. typically, the smaller the cfm rating the better an engine will idle and also the less it will stumble off the line. you are trading away top end performance for those features though

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

the 650 will make for better streetability as compared to the 750. I would have made the same choice for a daily driver. typically, the smaller the cfm rating the better an engine will idle and also the less it will stumble off the line. you are trading away top end performance for those features though

Like your response as per usual ....based on my other forums with the Big Boy Ford guys.... Internet continues to amaze from a expertise standpoint... so much knowledge.... so the 650 stays.... they commented maybe a 15 hp gain over 7K rpms ha.... I was running him today stretching legs a bit up in the 4-6rpms range max ... THAT was enough Umph for my pussy ass. Took ole Fernando down to our local Dunes where the other trucks run .... see below.... $12 for the day to run about on the Dunes Bit more if wanna run those 4 wheeler things by the hour. I opened the hood on Fernando for the atv rental boys to see...they take a strong interest anytime a hood pops.. guess he'll be stolen by Monday. Boys turned me onto a junkyard nearby where I can get my teilgate aftermarket replaced with an oem with FORD embodded for around $50 ... next task.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Thought I'd demonstrate what I saw down below in my pan today after truck sat for 3 days.... There's definitely a lot of water in the pan separated from oil drip. My guess is that due to me being on the beach there is marine water even in garage.... each morning outside we are coated in water. Opinions welcome as usual....

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Lil Fernando love before his stretch finding those 4-6K rpms.....

 

[rrrr]

the 650 will make for better streetability as compared to the 750. I would have made the same choice for a daily driver. typically, the smaller the cfm rating the better an engine will idle and also the less it will stumble off the line. you are trading away top end performance for those features though

I remember several friends placing oversize carburetors on their cars because after installing headers or other minor mods, the engine needed more gasoline...right?

A high school buddy put a Holley 850 double pumper on his 1970 Mustang running a 351. He couldn't understand why it ran like shit, insisted the carburetor was defective out of the box.

 

[Shlbyntro]

I remember several friends placing oversize carburetors on their cars because after installing headers or other minor mods, the engine needed more gasoline...right?

A high school buddy put a Holley 850 double pumper on his 1970 Mustang running a 351. He couldn't understand why it ran like shit, insisted the carburetor was defective out of the box.

They didn't have to change the carburetor, they chose to change the carburetor lol. They could have likely left the carbs alone and been fine or at most all they would have needed to do was put bigger jets in the carbs they already had.

....but where's the fun in that?!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

BUMP new project needing input.... Notice how rusted this aftermarket grill is right?
So I have a techy guy visiting Th-Mon and I'm thinking we'll go to AutoZone and buy some goodies to get on this rusted grill rehab project. [See pic} I see its only 4 screws to remove this grill so what do you guys recommend we use by hand to take rust down and then spray a can of anti rust stuff followed by a spray can of paint to finish it off?
As far as color Im kinda thinking a black to match shiny tires/ wheels.... or do I just say fuck it and stay with existing "Patina" rusted look matching hood? Hmmmmm, help this old boy out with opinions fellas... Thanks
Reminder pic of fernando's grill:

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

BUMP new project needing input.... Notice how rusted this aftermarket grill is right?
So I have a techy guy visiting Th-Mon and I'm thinking we'll go to AutoZone and buy some goodies to get on this rusted grill rehab project. [See pic} I see its only 4 screws to remove this grill so what do you guys recommend we use by hand to take rust down and then spray a can of anti rust stuff followed by a spray can of paint to finish it off?
As far as color Im kinda thinking a black to match shiny tires/ wheels.... or do I just say fuck it and stay with existing "Patina" rusted look matching hood? Hmmmmm, help this old boy out with opinions fellas... Thanks
Reminder pic of fernando's grill:


View attachment 1316671

Just paint it black and put it back. Repeat in 3 years.

If you want to prep it, get some steel wool to remove the rust a maybe some 220 or higher sandpaper. If there is loose stuff to knockoff, start with a more course paper.

I’ll say you’ll still be doing it again in 3 years. That grill is going to continue rusting from the inside out.

 

[4Waters]

BUMP new project needing input.... Notice how rusted this aftermarket grill is right?
So I have a techy guy visiting Th-Mon and I'm thinking we'll go to AutoZone and buy some goodies to get on this rusted grill rehab project. [See pic} I see its only 4 screws to remove this grill so what do you guys recommend we use by hand to take rust down and then spray a can of anti rust stuff followed by a spray can of paint to finish it off?
As far as color Im kinda thinking a black to match shiny tires/ wheels.... or do I just say fuck it and stay with existing "Patina" rusted look matching hood? Hmmmmm, help this old boy out with opinions fellas... Thanks
Reminder pic of fernando's grill:

View attachment 1316671

Ford Truck Bronco Chrome Grille F150 F250 F350 1988 1989 1990 1987-1991 | eBay

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Used condition. Has one broken tab.</p>

www.ebay.com

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Ford Truck Bronco Chrome Grille F150 F250 F350 1988 1989 1990 1987-1991 | eBay

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Used condition. Has one broken tab.</p>

www.ebay.com

Better idea.

 

[lbhsbz]

Rivermobster is correct. You can get ford diesel oil 15w40 has a lot of zinc but doesn't have any detergents in it as it's designed for the 7.3 powerstroke and it's injectors. The 10w30 diesel oil is NOT loaded with zinc as the newer diesels don't need it.

View attachment 1314561

You can also buy a bottle of zinc and add it to your oil change

View attachment 1314562

I added a half bottle of zinc every other oil change to my 7.3psd on top of the Ford oil and we also added it to my parents Model A.

Of course it has detergent in it. Every engine oil suitable for engines that use filters have detergent. That's what suspends the particulates so the oil can carry them to the filter. Non-detergent oils simply wash the particulates away and they settle on the bottom because the oil can't suspend them...good for shit like lathe headstocks and lawnmowers, that's about it.

 

[4Waters]

Of course it has detergent in it. Every engine oil suitable for engines that use filters have detergent. That's what suspends the particulates so the oil can carry them to the filter. Non-detergent oils simply wash the particulates away and they settle on the bottom because the oil can't suspend them...good for shit like lathe headstocks and lawnmowers, that's about it.

Negative, if you used an oil with a detergent in a 7.3 or 6.0 the oil would foam up and aerate the injectors causing them to shut off when you come to a stop. The 15w40 diesel oil is nondetergent.

 

[Shlbyntro]

BUMP new project needing input.... Notice how rusted this aftermarket grill is right?
So I have a techy guy visiting Th-Mon and I'm thinking we'll go to AutoZone and buy some goodies to get on this rusted grill rehab project. [See pic} I see its only 4 screws to remove this grill so what do you guys recommend we use by hand to take rust down and then spray a can of anti rust stuff followed by a spray can of paint to finish it off?
As far as color Im kinda thinking a black to match shiny tires/ wheels.... or do I just say fuck it and stay with existing "Patina" rusted look matching hood? Hmmmmm, help this old boy out with opinions fellas... Thanks
Reminder pic of fernando's grill:

View attachment 1316671

Ospho and forget about it. It's an acid product so take it off, wear gloves, and use a brush. The ospho will also turn it near black naturally while still keeping a slight tinge of patina to match the hood. You can always paint it later if Fernando ever feels like dressing up.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Just paint it black and put it back. Repeat in 3 years.

If you want to prep it, get some steel wool to remove the rust a maybe some 220 or higher sandpaper. If there is loose stuff to knockoff, start with a more course paper.

I’ll say you’ll still be doing it again in 3 years. That grill is going to continue rusting from the inside out.

Makes sense.... lets watch other input too.... I like this lazy version as I am one lazy dude

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Ford Truck Bronco Chrome Grille F150 F250 F350 1988 1989 1990 1987-1991 | eBay

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Used condition. Has one broken tab.</p>

www.ebay.com

Whoa look at that... Thanks.... might just be my present mood but Im thinkings though that is the easy and smart way to go, somehow I want to save this existing current version. Great input regardless!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Negative, if you used an oil with a detergent in a 7.3 or 6.0 the oil would foam up and aerate the injectors causing them to shut off when you come to a stop. The 15w40 diesel oil is nondetergent.

So much data here with you guys! Im on a couple Old Body Styled F series 460s forums and gotta say you guys are superior in responses. Power of the RDP

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Ospho and forget about it. It's an acid product so take it off, wear gloves, and use a brush. The ospho will also turn it near black naturally while still keeping a slight tinge of patina to match the hood. You can always paint it later if Fernando ever feels like dressing up.

Ospho found online. Coolio, thanks. Got an old ex detailer shop owner claiming WD 40 is good rust remover or maybe he said good for oil pan clean up underneath rather than Gunk spray. Ideas? Just gonna clean up underneath areas this week and better watch slow leak stuff...

 

[Your ad here]

Negative, if you used an oil with a detergent in a 7.3 or 6.0 the oil would foam up and aerate the injectors causing them to shut off when you come to a stop. The 15w40 diesel oil is nondetergent.

I've been using travellers oil in my 7.3s for miles. It has detergents in it and never had a problem with shearing. Rotella sheares really bad in HEUI systems but has never caused an engine to shut off.
IIRC delo 400 was developed especially for HEUI systems but years ago they took all the zinc out of it and it fell off the list of approved oils by Ford.

 

[4Waters]

I've been using travellers oil in my 7.3s for miles. It has detergents in it and never had a problem with shearing. Rotella sheares really bad in HEUI systems but has never caused an engine to shut off.

I found out the hard way, it's not hard on parts at least, the harder you drive it the more likely it will do it, the good thing is it will start right back up. When I started working for AMR they were having this issue as those gas pedals are on/off switches. I went and talked to the mechanics and found out they were using the wrong oil, they switched to a proper oil and the problem went away.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Had a Master mechanic buddy out from TX and he gave that leak a look..... suggested it was coming from the driver side valve cover back towards rear most cylinders..... so think I'll take it to mechanic here for fresh whatchamacallits [Valve cover gasket] and spray Degunk the underside real good.... then watch. Opinions?

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

 

[Willie B]

Had a Master mechanic buddy out from TX and he gave that leak a look..... suggested it was coming from the driver side valve cover back towards rear most cylinders..... so think I'll take it to mechanic here for fresh whatchamacallits [Valve cover gasket] and spray Degunk the underside real good.... then watch. Opinions?

.. I think the real answer to this situation is forget the leak …just some hookers and blow…