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'82 Juddcraft Project

Jimmy

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Its not playing the game. Its slowly just chewing it out. 20170509_113726.jpg
I'll let it marinate in some dw40 for a bit n go do something else.
 

Jimmy

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Might just run a 5/16 tapping die over that and bolt her down lol... F*** 20170509_122839.jpg
 

Jimmy

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Just got a message from AusPost theres a package there waiting at the postoffice.
Could be power steering or the prop... [emoji4]
Wont get a chance to get there till Saturday morning tho.
 

HST4ME

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Prop... I'm laid up just had a bunch of fluid sucked out of my knee.
 

Jimmy

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School me on exhaust tips

Im starting to look into finishing off the exhaust.
Ive got a choice of these old school retro SS ones with the SS flap

Or the more modern tip (Long or short) with a rubber flap. With/without muffler.

rps20170518_221527.jpg Screenshot_20170518-221235.png Screenshot_20170518-221308.png
 

Jimmy

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Even looking back on it, the positioning is 3in or half a hole higher than what i thought, like there must have been much of a S between the manifold and the transom. tapatalk_1495144310151.jpeg
 

Jimmy

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Picked the prop up from the postoffice. 20170520_084120.jpg
 

Jimmy

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The old man come up with the idea of doing something like this with the exhaust rather than through the transom.

How much real estate does the power steering take up? unnamed.jpg unnamed%20(1).jpg
 

HST4ME

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It wont interfere with any of that I don't think.
 

Jimmy

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I knew i was going to work this morning for a reason. 20170618_061635.jpg
 

Jimmy

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Would u suggest this is cast aluminium or iron?
Im looking at welding the inside egde of the exhaust manifolds and resurfacing them. 20170614_135905.jpg
 

4Waters

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I don't know if welding will fix it but before you do any welding try to get those studs out, drown them in penetrating oil for a few days and use heat, if the studs come out then try to fix the log.
 

Jimmy

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I don't know if welding will fix it but before you do any welding try to get those studs out, drown them in penetrating oil for a few days and use heat, if the studs come out then try to fix the log.
Yeah thats the plan.
I was just puting some more meat there where its blown into the water jacket, then run the mill over it.
 

Jimmy

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I think we're on a winner with these ones. 20170622_131942.jpg 20170622_132925.jpg 20170622_132859.jpg 20170622_132909.jpg
 

Jimmy

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That muffler putty stuff its crap.
Plan B pay someone to weld it up. 20170627_104918.jpg
 

Jimmy

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Got the manifolds back off a mate he welded and machined the faces up for us.
I didnt want to die grind too much out so i had a bit of wall between the water jacket.

For the record if youve just googled "Super Chev Marine Exhaust Manifold" theyre a shit cast, the studs arnt even center to the exhaust which is half the reason the walls blew out.
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Jimmy

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Coolings all hooked up
Engine bays starting to look messy [emoji27] Got shit going on everywhere.
Nearly had it on the garden hose but ran out of day light, so next week we'll fire it up.
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Jimmy

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Fired her up at a mates shop over a few froffys [emoji481]
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Sorry about how short the video was, it was quite late and we didn't want to wake the neighbourhood.
I'll sort out a few issues and give it heaps over the weekend.

[video=youtube_https;RezhLItGVoU]https://youtu.be/RezhLItGVoU[/video]

Pressure tested the cooling system, all good except a slight thread leak near the water pump on the block and theres a oring seal at the thermostat thats leaking.
Might just replace it with a gasket and goo.

Had a loose fuel fitting on the carby and the oil pressure sender had a slight weep.

Couldnt quite run it on the hose because the exhaust flange didnt seal.
I'll make some propper gaskets for both of them, I only used flange sealer to seal it up this time.
[video=youtube_https;IQ22IdRo9gs]https://youtu.be/IQ22IdRo9gs[/video]
 

4Waters

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You don't want to run it with the drive up that high either it puts to much stress in the u-joints. Sounded good nice idle.
 

Jimmy

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You don't want to run it with the drive up that high either it puts to much stress in the u-joints. Sounded good nice idle.
Cheers Fair point, Yeah we only had it at an idle to keep the noise down.
 

Jimmy

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Fixed all the dramas for the other night but i think i got a new one.
This is just with the garden hose which i thought was reasonable.
[video=youtube_https;BdXBAoqdn5Q]https://youtu.be/BdXBAoqdn5Q[/video]

And this is at about 2000 rpm which i thought there'd be more than a light mist.
[video=youtube_https;GOlxKyYo3Ks]https://youtu.be/GOlxKyYo3Ks[/video]
[video=youtube_https;GOlxKyYo3Ks]https://youtu.be/GOlxKyYo3Ks[/video]

Pump impellers good, crack a few water fittings... all seem ok.
I'm thinking theres a restriction in the heat exchange.
Might have to mill or grind out these lips that are on the end cap
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I feel as though its only using 20% of the cores.
 

Taboma

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No expert here, but had heat exchangers on my ocean rig for years.
They're designed to direct the raw water in such a manner that it passes through half or part of the tubes in one direction and the remaining tubes in the other before exiting. Essentially trying to slow the water down so it has sufficient time to absorb the remove the heat.

It would seem that if you grind out those lips you're going to alter that design. I'm not seeing the shell end, but if you consider a multi-pass design versus a single pass, the alignment of the end caps is probably key.

Looking great Jimmy !!!
 

Flying_Lavey

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No expert here, but had heat exchangers on my ocean rig for years.
They're designed to direct the raw water in such a manner that it passes through half or part of the tubes in one direction and the remaining tubes in the other before exiting. Essentially trying to slow the water down so it has sufficient time to absorb the remove the heat.

It would seem that if you grind out those lips you're going to alter that design. I'm not seeing the shell end, but if you consider a multi-pass design versus a single pass, the alignment of the end caps is probably key.

Looking great Jimmy !!!
Exactly what I'm thinking.
 

4Waters

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I wouldn't do anything until you talk to someone about the exchanger water flow works I am mostly writing this to bump it to the top of the page hoping someone with some more knowledge will see it and chime in.
 

Jimmy

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Ive gone down with man flu today and back at work tomorrow. Then on vacation for 2 weeks after that so it'll be a while before i can test anthing.

I'll just start at the pump and check flow with a 4 Gal bucket and time it, then work my way through to the tail pipe.

Ive got a spare heat exchange here with damaged tubes i can do some bench tests with.

But I do agree that lip probably slows water down in the top half of the heat exchange where the inlet and outlet are for the coolant.
 

Taboma

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Ive gone down with man flu today and back at work tomorrow. Then on vacation for 2 weeks after that so it'll be a while before i can test anthing.

I'll just start at the pump and check flow with a 4 Gal bucket and time it, then work my way through to the tail pipe.

Ive got a spare heat exchange here with damaged tubes i can do some bench tests with.

But I do agree that lip probably slows water down in the top half of the heat exchange where the inlet and outlet are for the coolant.

I've got to think back as it's been many years since I had heat exchangers --- but I think the Mercruiser raw water side made at least three passes through the tubes before exiting.

Hope you feel better :thumbsup
 

Jimmy

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Has anyone got a engine mount ski tow like this? To suit a SB chev?
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Jimmy

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Bit off topic but had a bit of a noise in the rear axle of my ute.
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Jimmy

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Where can u get good Stainless bimini hardware?
 

Jimmy

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Got the powersteering mostly on.
The teleflex steering cable screws straight onto the MerCruiser actuator, no adapters needed.
I'll put a new steering cable onto the evergrowing list its had water in it.

Tomorrow I'll cut the small heat exchange in somewhere, I've gotta change the cooling around a heap since i plumbed the pump in backwards to start with [emoji28].

Only issue ive come across is the pump pully's out half a belt and the hoses hit the exhaust which gives no room for belt tention adjustments.
So the only way I see it working would be to make a custom bracket that lifts the pump up and back a fraction.
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Jimmy

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How do u test the signal from the distributor, i put a new tacho in and its still a no go.
 

4Waters

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If it's standard color wires I have never seen any other colors, marine could be different.
Black-ground
Red-12v switched
Green-signal
White-light
You can test the signal with a test light
 
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