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Things are speeding up a bit. I don't want switches on the dash, and after laying them out it was obvious I didn't have the space to mount them all in the center patch panel. Decided to mount the ignition and headlight switch on the bottom of the tank by the left kick panel.

I didn't want the (purists stop reading now) power window switches exposed either and had just enough room behind the ends of the dash rail to mount them. weld up one hole, cut another. Easy access and out of sight......

Title it in someone else's name.

Hey! There's nothing wrong with power windows and autos. A/C though.......that's geriatric 'rodding right there. ;)

Yes they're welding magnets. Quite strong and helps level the surfaces.

Fun with sheetmetal..... Fitted the bottom patch first. Want to get it tacked in place before I cut out the front for that patch. Don't need to cut out too much and have it twist.

Time to go all Frankenstein on this tank so I can get the gauges, switches and wiring done. Cut out the bottom so I can tack in a flat piece, so as long as it's accessible, it's a good time to cap the old filler neck from the inside. Still looks stock, but now nobody can pour anything inside (I...

He gets half of it but is ignorant of the other half. Sure, liberals got their ass handed to them because they can't handle simple discussion and differing views. Yes, they need to try to convince others with logical arguments. The OTHER half is while discussing with differing views and HAVE AN...

Tacked the brackets under the rail Looks a little Xmas-y but will look good flashing. The tank will be painted black metallic, so thinking about ghosting a left and right arrow where they shine on the tank. Just an idea..... I'll paint a test panel and see if it works or not.

More little stuff. I don't want ANY indicator lights visible on the dash, so am using green LED's for the turn signals on the left and right and a blue LED in the middle for the hi beam indicator. Here's the brackets that'll be tacked behind the dash rail so when they light up you'll only see...

So, why all the hassle for a relay and fuse block? Might just be me, but these pics show why it's all worth it.

Got the fuse block bracket done and fitted. Using rivet nuts to make life a little easier.

Got a little sidetracked as I was fabbing the access door. I want a real dome light with door switches, but didn't want something obvious. I found a cool booted switch that would blend in to the pillar, but was from a VW Golf and used a VW connector. So rather than deal with micro pins and a...

Sometimes you're into it, sometimes you're not. Tonight I made a bracket for the fuse block and it was f'ed from the get go. Didn't take my time on the layout and made the first bend the wrong direction. Decided to use it to fine tuned the height of each leg since each one is a different length...

More brackets. Do I NEED to do this? Naw, but I need the practice making brackets. Bracket for the fuse block tomorrow night.....

Wire's here! Now to fab the sheetmetal risers for each block, tack them on the access door and finish the firewall.

I'm at that point where I need the wiring harness, so I have an American Autowire Route 9 coming. The components aren't in "normal" locations, so since all the wires and terminations are custom, I went bare bones. Here's the positive cable and starter relay. The loom will run down the A pillar...

I'll be mounting a modular relay block as well as the fuse block on platforms on the inside of the access panel. I was going to just make one big panel but as long as I'm playing with sheet metal, might as well do it right. When the panel swings down both blocks will be easily accessible.

if you looked really close in the photo above, you saw how the access panel will latch closed. It's called a Quik Latch and is really kinda cool and almost flush. Of course that means I had to come up with a way to mount the post INSIDE the tank. Had some sheetmetal left over from the...

BTTT. Will consider trade for street rod or altered.