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Will it hit freezing tonight in Havasu?

RiverDave

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Im wondering about people that have their boats outside.. Supposed to be close but with the windchill? Do you think they should put a lightbulb in the engine hatch?
 

cofooter

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I think you would need a long duration of consistently freezing temps to freeze out a block. I never worried about a few hours of close to freezing temps.
 

bocco

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I think it would take a few days of solid freezing temps. Barely freezing at night and then warming up in the day time shouldn't crack a block or exhaust manifold.
 

n2otoofast4u

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The wind wont affect the temp on the motor, and it would have to be well below freezing for much longer than what you guys are going to experience.
 

RiverDave

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I know a few years back we had a cold front and some engine blocks cracked down in Parker?
 

tunnel vision

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The only effect wind chill has on inanimate objects, such as car radiators and water pipes, is to more quickly cool the object to cool to the current air temperature. Object will NOT cool below the actual air temperature


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throttle

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We went out in the rzr, dammit it felt cold AF.


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4Waters

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It needs to be freezing or below for 3hrs I believe to have problems with pipes. If it was forcast to drop to 32° for an hour I would put a couple of lights in the engine compartment just to be safe, it doesn't cost a lot to burn them overnight compared to a new engine. We all know how weather forecasters are.
 

King295

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While there is no real threat it is a great “Sorry honey we have to rebuild the boat motor” opportunity.


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ONE-A-DAY

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It’s -2 at our cabin in the Hualapais, crazy, glad we left the heat on and drained the pipes.
 

n2otoofast4u

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It’s -2 at our cabin in the Hualapais, crazy, glad we left the heat on and drained the pipes.
I have a place in Sunriver Oregon. It can get VERY cold on occasion. I re-piped the water lines to all have slop back to a drain, both hot and cold. The heat being on is great, right until the power goes out. If you have the means to get the water lines sloped to drain I'd do so. When I leave during the winter I shut the water off, drain the water lines, and I also dump a cup of antifreeze in all drains, as well as the toilet bowl and tank when we leave in the winter months to protect the traps from freezing. It seems overkill, but after having to fix shit a few times, it is really nice to show up knowing theres no drama when I turn the water on.
 

KENDOG689

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I'm still in shorts and flip fops.Seriously,gas fumes and electricity sounds like a bad mix?
 

Headless hula

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This thread and related comments are hilarious to read.
20190101_160320.jpg

Paula's bil and nephews were out on the lake ice fishing today. I cooked up some brats for dinner. All while wearing a t shirt. :p:p:cool::cool::D
 

Rondog4405

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Just got back home after 5 days in parker. Fuck ive never been so cold at the river!:eek::D
 

ONE-A-DAY

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I have a place in Sunriver Oregon. It can get VERY cold on occasion. I re-piped the water lines to all have slop back to a drain, both hot and cold. The heat being on is great, right until the power goes out. If you have the means to get the water lines sloped to drain I'd do so. When I leave during the winter I shut the water off, drain the water lines, and I also dump a cup of antifreeze in all drains, as well as the toilet bowl and tank when we leave in the winter months to protect the traps from freezing. It seems overkill, but after having to fix shit a few times, it is really nice to show up knowing theres no drama when I turn the water on.

We have dump valves at the low point that drains the whole place just in case the power goes out, it’s a pretty cool set up.
 

Riverbottom

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It’s -2 at our cabin in the Hualapais, crazy, glad we left the heat on and drained the pipes.

Used to be your neighbor in the Hualapais, need to drain and winterize real well. Had the power off for two days about 5 yrs ago when down around 11*. Kept Greg the plumber busy most of the spring. Lodge was closed for a week and a half as all the water lines in the ground were frozen. Get to know your neighbor next door Pete, and Richard down the street they will keep an eye on things when you are gone. You got a nice quiet spot.
 

TCHB

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100 days till 80. Come on summer
 

boatpi

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It is 28 in Las Vegas strip now.
 

Wheeler

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Im wondering about people that have their boats outside.. Supposed to be close but with the windchill? Do you think they should put a lightbulb in the engine hatch?

Is your Hallet still outside on the side of your house?

Screenshot 2019-01-02 at 8.05.10 AM - Edited.png
 

guest hs

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It has to get below freezing (mid 20's)for a few days to brake engine block in our area. The first to go will be Small Block Chevy and the Chevy v6 they have thin castings in the water jacket areas. They will push out the side of the block and crack in the lifter galley. I have never seen a Big Block Chevy or Ford brake the block around here. I once almost did back in the 1991 Vegas freeze. I knocked out a freeze plug from each side (BBC) and took a small torch and melted all the ice from the block knocked the freeze plugs back in then filled it with antifreeze. I have seen a couple Small Block Ford engines brake cylinder heads around here.
 

RiverDave

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It has to get below freezing (mid 20's)for a few days to brake engine block in our area. The first to go will be Small Block Chevy and the Chevy v6 they have thin castings in the water jacket areas. They will push out the side of the block and crack in the lifter galley. I have never seen a Big Block Chevy or Ford brake the block around here. I once almost did back in the 1991 Vegas freeze. I knocked out a freeze plug from each side (BBC) and took a small torch and melted all the ice from the block knocked the freeze plugs back in then filled it with antifreeze. I have seen a couple Small Block Ford engines brake cylinder heads around here.

I can say with absolute certainty that isn't true. It dipped below freezing in Parker years back and I remember several members reporting they had cracked blocks etc.. It only dipped for one or two nights?

RD
 

buck35

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It has to get below freezing (mid 20's)for a few days to brake engine block in our area. The first to go will be Small Block Chevy and the Chevy v6 they have thin castings in the water jacket areas. They will push out the side of the block and crack in the lifter galley. I have never seen a Big Block Chevy or Ford brake the block around here. I once almost did back in the 1991 Vegas freeze. I knocked out a freeze plug from each side (BBC) and took a small torch and melted all the ice from the block knocked the freeze plugs back in then filled it with antifreeze. I have seen a couple Small Block Ford engines brake cylinder heads around here.


A couple years ago a friend of a friend winterized his own boat for sale he first time .Volvo 350, he must have gotten most out, but it pushed the front two freeze plugs out. I removed the motor mounts and installed new ,ran it on the hose and it was fine. Really couldn't believe it myself. Two years and no issues.
 

RCDave

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About 7-8 years ago it dipped into the teens at our former house in Willow Valley for two straight nights.

I remember it well, as the next morning I was supposed to run new underground sprinkler lines in the back yard. The ground hard froze and I couldn;t get the rental trenching machine to penetrate the soil.
 

guest hs

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I can say with absolute certainty that isn't true. It dipped below freezing in Parker years back and I remember several members reporting they had cracked blocks etc.. It only dipped for one or two nights?

RD
Maybe I didn’t word this right I’m not talking about the entire day freezing I’m talking 2-3 nights below will do it.
 

ONE-A-DAY

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Used to be your neighbor in the Hualapais, need to drain and winterize real well. Had the power off for two days about 5 yrs ago when down around 11*. Kept Greg the plumber busy most of the spring. Lodge was closed for a week and a half as all the water lines in the ground were frozen. Get to know your neighbor next door Pete, and Richard down the street they will keep an eye on things when you are gone. You got a nice quiet spot.
Thanks for the info, we will definitely reach out to them.
 

waterhorse

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On my boat engine (v-drive) it's not a sealed system. I disconnect the water intake, and I remove the water pump impeller. So it shouldn't be a problem if some residual water might freeze ?? Yes??
 

Flying_Lavey

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It was 21 degrees at my house when I left this morning. I should probably be leary of my engine.... Oh wait..... It's an old 2.4 Merc outboard. The water just drains out of it everytime I pull it out of the water. :)

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RiverDave

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On my boat engine (v-drive) it's not a sealed system. I disconnect the water intake, and I remove the water pump impeller. So it shouldn't be a problem if some residual water might freeze ?? Yes??

Never lived in a climate where this would be an issue before so I have no idea. Lol

When a friend transported a boat across the country they filled a hose with anti freeze and hooked it up to the intake and fired the motor up. When the anti freeze came out the exhaust they turned it off and said it was good to go. Seems easier than working on the boat.

Albeit I’m not sure how environmentally friendly anti freeze is because it seems the norm is to just back them in the water and fire them up when it’s time to boat?
 

Rattle Can Lou

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I'm not a preacher...but this is the perfect thread to say this. You guys and gals should be draining your blocks and exhaust manifolds when it sits more the two to three weeks anyway...regardless of weather. The water in the lake and river is horrid on most parts. If your plumbed with aluminum AN type fittings the water will destroy them...if you run aluminum heads...the water sitting in them will destroy them. It's pretty simple to set them up to drain out the side of the blocks and set your exhaust manifolds up with some sort of drain..JMO
 

spectras only

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On my boat engine (v-drive) it's not a sealed system. I disconnect the water intake, and I remove the water pump impeller. So it shouldn't be a problem if some residual water might freeze ?? Yes??
The answer is no. You'd have to remove block drain plugs and use a small screw driver, ice pick etc.... to poke in the very small hole to dislodge sand/sediment to release what ever water left in the lower part of the block cavity. If even a small amount of water left in there, ice will push the freeze plug/s out.
I have two 6.2's in my boat with blue drain plugs, yet one freeze plug was popped two years ago, right behind the motor mount.:rolleyes: Removed motor mount, installed new plug[ brass] all good.
Chevy/ Ford engine drain orifice is too small to get all the water out with the slightest amount of sand in the blocks. I've always driled & tapped them out and installed garden brass hose fittings and caps on them. It also serves as a back flush if you boat a lot in shallow waterways.
Ps; RD, you use RV antifreeze not automotive for winterizing.;) And some of you with closed cooling, you still need to drain the exhaust manifolds!
 
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Wheeler

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It was last night.. Going to put it in the new storage unit here right now.

RD

I saw it there yesterday and wondered if it sat out all night in the wind. :eek:
 

guest hs

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The answer is no. You'd have to remove block drain plugs and use a small screw driver, ice pick etc.... to poke in the very small hole to dislodge sand/sediment to release what ever water left in the lower part of the block cavity. If even a small amount of water left in there, ice will push the freeze plug/s out.
I have two 6.2's in my boat with blue drain plugs, yet one freeze plug was popped two years ago, right behind the motor mount.:rolleyes: Removed motor mount, installed new plug[ brass] all good.
Chevy/ Ford engine drain orifice is too small to get all the water out with the slightest amount of sand in the blocks. I've always driled & tapped them out and installed garden brass hose fittings and caps on them. It also serves as a back flush if you boat a lot in shallow waterways.
Ps; RD, you use RV antifreeze not automotive for winterizing.;) And some of you with closed cooling, you still need to drain the exhaust manifolds!
Also the sea water side of the heat exchanger.
 

Rotten deal

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I've done both draining blocks and what Dave said ran antifreeze through until green coming out pipes. I flush it back out before putting it in the lake.
 

RiverDave

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I'm not a preacher...but this is the perfect thread to say this. You guys and gals should be draining your blocks and exhaust manifolds when it sits more the two to three weeks anyway...regardless of weather. The water in the lake and river is horrid on most parts. If your plumbed with aluminum AN type fittings the water will destroy them...if you run aluminum heads...the water sitting in them will destroy them. It's pretty simple to set them up to drain out the side of the blocks and set your exhaust manifolds up with some sort of drain..JMO

I'll look into that, albeit I have never had a problem before?

RD
 

Rattle Can Lou

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I'll look into that, albeit I have never had a problem before?

RD

RD...between my brother and I we have bought probably three or four boats out of river region...and when I include my buddy Tim we can add a couple more to the Boise group. One boat, the aluminum heads had to be thrown away..the next one every fitting on the motor was junk...Campbell Carl's spectra was another one where the fittings were corroded closed on the water lines ..Tom Peterson can tell you about the Bob Stanfield (sp) Schiada..I saw those with my own eyes...insane corrosion. Most of these boats never get winterized because of location..but they need to be..
 

RiverDave

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RD...between my brother and I we have bought probably three or four boats out of river region...and when I include my buddy Tim we can add a couple more to the Boise group. One boat, the aluminum heads had to be thrown away..the next one every fitting on the motor was junk...Campbell Carl's spectra was another one where the fittings were corroded closed on the water lines ..Tom Peterson can tell you about the Bob Stanfield (sp) Schiada..I saw those with my own eyes...insane corrosion. Most of these boats never get winterized because of location..but they need to be..

I'll have to figure out how to get that all setup on my boats.. Especially since one is older and the other is getting on older now! Albeit I don't expect the motors in either are gonna be in them much longer.. (God Bless this economy! :D)

RD
 

Racey

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It's like $15 bucks to get an extension cord and lamp socket.... Is it really worth the worry for that and 15 minutes of your time....
 

milkmoney

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Just got back home after 5 days in parker. Fuck ive never been so cold at the river!:eek::D
At least you were at the river.


As far as this thread,,, good grief , the assclowns are also pussies [emoji39][emoji202]

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Ouderkirk

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Im wondering about people that have their boats outside.. Supposed to be close but with the windchill? Do you think they should put a lightbulb in the engine hatch?

Nah...an ovenight at 32 degrees isn't enough to crack the block mostly beacuse it won't freeze completely. If it was going to be in the low 20's for a week, I would say you have a problem and should winterize with Proplyene Glycol anti-freeze.
 

Heylam

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So, I guess it’s true, hell can freeze over. Lol


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Halvecto

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It's like $15 bucks to get an extension cord and lamp socket.... Is it really worth the worry for that and 15 minutes of your time....
What change in engine area temp would a 100W bulb produce? I have done this in the past and put the light on a light sensor plug, so it turned on at dusk, off at dawn. Wondered if, at say ambient 28 degrees, the bulb could create 4-5 degrees of change.

I would think that putting the bulb right up against the block would help that spot. Just not sure if it would affect the whole area enough.
 
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