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What Water Heater Brand?

SHEP

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What's the go to brand for a water heater at Lowe's or Home Depot? Or are they all crap and basically the same?

Thanks,

SHEP
 

SHEP

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Gas.

Also, is there a big difference between the tall and short models? (besides height)
 

TPC

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Most are white label and various companies stick their name sticker on them.
Gas Water heaters breathe more then they did 29 years ago and NOW require some maintenance. Especially California units.

Ya got'ta get in there and clean the air inlet screen(s) and a few other things.
The latest shenanigan is suddenly ya can't get simple replacement parts. Screwball, oddball design only proprietary parts work.
The days of simply replacing the pilot generator are over.

Our latest is Whirlpool been good for 6 years, throws a code when the burner inlet screen needs cleaning.
The codes will flash, count them and the owners booklet tells you what the code is.

Then:
YouTubes will show you how to clear the code and fix the issue, but more importantly the YouTube poster may be selling that odd ball part you need and can't find.

Bought the water heater it at the Do It Center.
IMG_3360.jpeg
 
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Rajobigguy

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My cold water heater is 20 years old. The wife and I were just talking about changing it out. It's inside and not sitting on a pan. I want to put in a circulating pump because the kitchen sink is on the opposite side of the house.
I’m in the same camp as you so far as terminology. Saying “hot water heater” is redundant and kind of grates on my nerves. I just say water heater, although I do live in Havasu so during the summer months using the term “hot water heater” is probably not entirely wrong.🤔
 

Rajobigguy

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Back to the op’s question. AO Smith is one of the higher rated water heaters. I just installed mine about nine months ago. It has leak detection with auto shut off and is Wi-Fi enabled so I get alerts if anything is not right and can control functions from my phone.
 

Go-Fly

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I’m in the same camp as you so far as terminology. Saying “hot water heater” is redundant and kind of grates on my nerves. I just say water heater, although I do live in Havasu so during the summer months using the term “hot water heater” is probably not entirely wrong.🤔
Go to Yuma Az in the summer. Even the cold water is hot. Most people turn the power off to the CWH.
 

monkeyswrench

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Go to Yuma Az in the summer. Even the cold water is hot. Most people turn the power off to the CWH.
My river pad in Golden Shores is this way. The water mains are 6-12" under the ground, so the inlet temps are high during the summer. I turn off the heater, and use it like a chiller so I can take cold showers.

BTW, my water heater out there is gas, and has no boards or wi-fi stuff. Old school thermostat and pilot. Same here at home. Until this thread, never knew high tech ones existed :oops:
 

NicPaus

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Bradford white.

If you have to I would get a AO Smith from Contractors Warehouse. Before lowes or HD.

Rheem from home depot is junk. Last week I had to change 1 out as they took forever to warranty the gas control valve. Now I have the valve but already swapped in a Bradford white. Home owner wanted his tenant happy. $2650 with new circ pump. Rheem was not even 5 years old. They wanted tech support to try and diagnose it over phone before sending the part. 3 days a few hours and tech support never answered or called back. Finally the lady just sent the part.
 

Yldboyz

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Industry brand for tank type would be Bradford White, the last one I got for a friend 50 gal was $500 bucks or so. Let me know if you need assistance, I can throw you a bone.
 

Racey

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First thing to do no matter what brand is pull the anode while it's still free. Goop up the threads with good corrosion anti sieze like depac, and then get a spare anode.

Most failures occur after the anode has dissolved and then the tank starts getting eaten.

If you don't pull the anode right away you will never get it out when it comes tome to change it
 

Sportin' Wood

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First thing to do no matter what brand is pull the anode while it's still free. Goop up the threads with good corrosion anti sieze like depac, and then get a spare anode.

Most failures occur after the anode has dissolved and then the tank starts getting eaten.

If you don't pull the anode right away you will never get it out when it comes tome to change it
100% this. If you periodically change the anode rod, the heater will last for a long damn time.
 

Racey

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100% this. If you periodically change the anode rod, the heater will last for a long damn time.

Someone told me years ago that the only difference between a 6, 9 and 12 year warranty heater was the anode length 🤦‍♂️ I don't know if it's true, but it makes sense.
 

NicPaus

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Majority of the failures I have seen last 5 years is the Honeywell gas control valve. Just checked the one they sent me is made by resideo now.
20231214_083927.jpg
 

PlumLoco

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I've never done any maintenance on a water heater.
3 houses, 3 AO Smiths.
In house #1 and 2 unit went over 15 yrs. Current unit is only 2 yrs old.
 

Rajobigguy

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I've never done any maintenance on a water heater.
3 houses, 3 AO Smiths.
In house #1 and 2 unit went over 15 yrs. Current unit is only 2 yrs old.
It depends a lot on your water quality. When I lived I Downey we had a soft water unit and the water heater lasted 25 years with no maintenance other than an occasional blow down.
Here in Havasu I just put a water heater in about nine months ago and already had to replace the upper heating element. When I pulled it out it was so scaled up that it looked like a block of ceramic.
To the credit of AO Smiths diagnostics system I got a message on my phone alerting me to the problem.
I have a water treatment system here but its not true soft water and after seeing how bad that element was I may consider calling the Culligan man.
 

rrrr

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My cold water heater is 20 years old. The wife and I were just talking about changing it out. It's inside and not sitting on a pan. I want to put in a circulating pump because the kitchen sink is on the opposite side of the house.
Just yesterday I finally installed the recirculating pump I purchased in October 2022.

😁

All you slackers out there need to up your procrastination game. I'm world class.

20231213_203313.jpg
 

NicPaus

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Just yesterday I finally installed the recirculating pump I purchased in October 2022.

😁

All you slackers out there need to up your procrastination game. I'm world class.

View attachment 1312844
No dedicated recirculating line?

The one I just did the old Grundfos was burned out from running 24 7. Installed a new 1 and added a timer. Damn pump, timer and new union's was $550.
 

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Spudsbud

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A.O. Smith. The gold standard. Gas or Electric.
HD here, carries them.
40yrs of pipefitting exp. talking......
 

Spudsbud

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Note !
Anybody else considering investing in a recirc, pump ?
You DONT NEED IT !
When I started in the plumbing trade, late 1970's. the old (then) union plumbers used to laugh.....
If the far end of the recirc line is higher than the return point at the tank.... i.e. pull off the drain valve. Usually 3/4 npt. install a brass nipple, TEE and either better drain valve or the old 1 back on. Connect the recirc return line to this point. bottom of the tank, lowest. The other end upstairs somewhere. "X" amount of feet above the other end.
Simple thermal osmosis will recirculate the water. hot water rises to the highest point, forcing the cooler water back down to the tank.
Physics Gents !
No pump required. I've installed hundreds thru the decades.....
JM2C.
again, 40 yrs of plumbing/pipefitting ex. here. Now retired.
 

Yldboyz

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No dedicated recirculating line?

The one I just did the old Grundfos was burned out from running 24 7. Installed a new 1 and added a timer. Damn pump, timer and new union's was $550.
The Watts pump is made by Grundfos, it's the Grundfos Comfort series. If you just have the timer less aqua stat and want the pump to cycle all day, every other blue tab should be pointing forwards the center of the timer... This will give the pump 15 mins on and 15 mins off during each cycle.
 

rrrr

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No dedicated recirculating line?

The one I just did the old Grundfos was burned out from running 24 7. Installed a new 1 and added a timer. Damn pump, timer and new union's was $550.
No. It has, as I'm sure you've encountered, a passive thermostatically controlled bypass valve I installed at the sink furthest from the water heater. It opens when the water temp drops to a certain level, and uses the cold water line to circulate water back to the water heater until the temperature rises, then it closes. I set the built in timer on the pump to turn it off during the hours it's not needed.

Because of convective transmission, I now have hot water at all of the fixtures when the pump is on and operating. Having immediate hot water at the faucet is really nice, it's something every new home should have. The pump costs a few pennies to run every day.

Was the Grundfos pump you replaced one of the gold colored cartridge style? They have a 15-20 GPM rating depending on the model. That can cause a deadhead pressure over 100 PSI. My new pump is rated at just 3 GPM, so there's not much pressure on the hot water piping when the pump is deadheading against the closed control valve. I'm going to check the system pressure with a temporary gauge, and install a bladder tank if the pressure is above 70PSI when the pump is deadheading

When I rebuilt the interior of our Plano house between 1999 and 2001, I installed a ½" recirculation return line, a ball valve to adjust the flow, and the Grundfos pump you mentioned. The system static pressure was over 100 PSI when adjusted the valve to a reasonable flow rate. I then installed a bladder tank, but the pressure was still around 75 PSI. I removed it and installed the Watts pump (which is manufactured by Grundfos).

It was the same pump as the new Watts pump I just installed, seen in the photo above. I didn't install the passive control valve, and used the ball valve for flow rate on the recirculating line. It worked without issue for the next 20 years.
 
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NicPaus

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The one I replaced had 3 levels on it no timer. It was unplugged already when I moved the water heater last year to fix some water damage. I never plugged it in. When I removed it the plastic impeller and a few other pieces fell out.

New one is 21 or 22 gpm. Set the timer for when they shower. It will run 4 hours a day. They wanted it on from 7 am to midnight but they are tenants. So I told them 4 hour max. They take 1 hour plus showers each.
20231206_143227.jpg


House has a dedicated 3/4" return line that got plumbed into bottom of water heater.

Pic of old 1.
 
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rrrr

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The one I replaced had 3 levels on it no timer. It was unplugged already when I moved the water heater last year to fix some water damage. I never plugged it in. When I removed it the plastic impeller and a few other pieces fell out.

New one is 21 or 22 gpm. Set the timer for when they shower. It will run 4 hours a day. They wanted it on from 7 am to midnight but they are tenants. So I told them 4 hour max. They take 1 hour plus showers each. View attachment 1312893

House has a dedicated 3/4" return line that got plumbed into bottom of water heater.

Pic of old 1.
That's a huge flow rate. It'll erode the piping with fitting turbulence and cause pinholes. There should be a ball valve in the return line to regulate the flow.
 

King295

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The one I replaced had 3 levels on it no timer. It was unplugged already when I moved the water heater last year to fix some water damage. I never plugged it in. When I removed it the plastic impeller and a few other pieces fell out.

New one is 21 or 22 gpm. Set the timer for when they shower. It will run 4 hours a day. They wanted it on from 7 am to midnight but they are tenants. So I told them 4 hour max. They take 1 hour plus showers each. View attachment 1312893

House has a dedicated 3/4" return line that got plumbed into bottom of water heater.

Pic of old 1.
Mines on a time for 45 mins in the AM before I shower, was told the longer they run the higher chance it will contribute to pinhole leaks... not sure if that true.

Separately, what the hell are they doing in the shower for an hour?!
 
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Go-Fly

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Just yesterday I finally installed the recirculating pump I purchased in October 2022.

😁

All you slackers out there need to up your procrastination game. I'm world class.

View attachment 1312844
So...is the pump plugged into an extension cord, ran across the garage floor, looped over the door, held up by sheetrock screws. Not saying I'd do something like that.
 

NicPaus

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Mines on a time for 45 mins in the AM before I shower, was told the longer they run the higher chance it will contribute to pinhole leaks... not sure if that true.

Separately, what the hell are they doing in the shower for an hour?!
I would think it would speed up the pinhole process if it's turbulent. But here the water seems to be the biggest issue with pinholes.

Not sure what they are doing. But when they first moved in they said the water wasn't hot enough. I turned it up a click and it was hot to me. They said the shower gets cold and it's a 50 gallon. I just repaired a ton of water damage from the rains and fixed a issue. And owner calls said its leaking. But it hadn't rained and it was a inner bedroom. I tried to figure out the leak countless times. Water meter never moved ruled out a pinhole. The previous contractor didn't use Teflon tape on the shower arm. Got it fixed and it still leaked into the room but not nearly as bad. I finally turned the shower on and after 45 minutes found where the water was coming from so in order for it to be getting wet they had to shower for at least a hour. Ended up being a Crack in the shower pan liner.

I had to go back the other day. They were saying water is not hot enough. I tested shower and not sure how they could get in that hot. Told her I can't turn it any hotter. And they tried telling me it gets cold when showering.

Here is a pic of the liner. No cracks in grout or tile. Never leaked with previous tenants. Was done 13 years ago. Glad I never have used a liner. Hot mop.

20230624_095343.jpg
 

DRYHEAT

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It depends a lot on your water quality. When I lived I Downey we had a soft water unit and the water heater lasted 25 years with no maintenance other than an occasional blow down.
Here in Havasu I just put a water heater in about nine months ago and already had to replace the upper heating element. When I pulled it out it was so scaled up that it looked like a block of ceramic.
To the credit of AO Smiths diagnostics system I got a message on my phone alerting me to the problem.
I have a water treatment system here but its not true soft water and after seeing how bad that element was I may consider calling the Culligan man.
The original AO Smith in my house in Havasu lasted 17 years, had to buy a Rheem at Home Depot that lasted 8 years, still under warranty got a free replacement. Now I’m holding my breath that the free replacement lasts a few more years. At the time I could not get an A.O. Smith or Bradford White without being a plumber. I don’t know if this is still the case and Havasu or not.
 

NicPaus

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That's a huge flow rate. It'll erode the piping with fitting turbulence and cause pinholes. There should be a ball valve in the return line to regulate the flow.
That was the lowest flow grundfos they had. The 3 gpm was 1/2". Same one that my EX has in her house and it runs 6 hours a day. My buddy at the supply house said that's the most common 1 they sell. I will look up the model number of one I took our and see it's flow rate.
 

rrrr

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So...is the pump plugged into an extension cord, ran across the garage floor, looped over the door, held up by sheetrock screws. Not saying I'd do something like that.
What the hell? How did you get in my house?

😁
 

King295

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I would think it would speed up the pinhole process if it's turbulent. But here the water seems to be the biggest issue with pinholes.

Not sure what they are doing. But when they first moved in they said the water wasn't hot enough. I turned it up a click and it was hot to me. They said the shower gets cold and it's a 50 gallon. I just repaired a ton of water damage from the rains and fixed a issue. And owner calls said its leaking. But it hadn't rained and it was a inner bedroom. I tried to figure out the leak countless times. Water meter never moved ruled out a pinhole. The previous contractor didn't use Teflon tape on the shower arm. Got it fixed and it still leaked into the room but not nearly as bad. I finally turned the shower on and after 45 minutes found where the water was coming from so in order for it to be getting wet they had to shower for at least a hour. Ended up being a Crack in the shower pan liner.

I had to go back the other day. They were saying water is not hot enough. I tested shower and not sure how they could get in that hot. Told her I can't turn it any hotter. And they tried telling me it gets cold when showering.

Here is a pic of the liner. No cracks in grout or tile. Never leaked with previous tenants. Was done 13 years ago. Glad I never have used a liner. Hot mop.

View attachment 1312975

A few years before I bought my house it was re-piped due to pinhole leaks in the foundation. I'll keep the timer program going, works good enough. I'm not in the kind of rush to need hot water immediately.

Wild deal with the pan, figured you would have cracks in grout/tile. Hope they are paying their own water bill, haha!
 

thetub

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kinda off topic but maybe not this is where soft water systems benefit the plumbing in the house including water heater..

again like said dependent on water type in the area... if very hard and calcified water would really help
 

King295

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Since we are on the subject, I replaced my water heater in 2020 (Bradford White Model URG150T62) which has the hydrojet flush deal. Life got in the way and I forgot to flush it. I did it about 3 months ago and it took way longer than YouTube told me it would to drain. Some deposits came out as part of the flush but nothing major. Took me a 45 minutes to get it to drain. Any tips for the pros to combat the issue other than frequent flushing?
 

NicPaus

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Screenshot_20231215-111249_Samsung Internet.jpg

This speeds up the process of draining them.
 

NicPaus

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For $295 bucks I'll just make sure my beer fridge is stocked and wait it out. :p
I hear ya. I can change 1 out faster than it will drain. So I bought this to speed up the process. 5 minutes or so and it drains a 50.
 

RiverCruiser

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Note !
Anybody else considering investing in a recirc, pump ?
You DONT NEED IT !
When I started in the plumbing trade, late 1970's. the old (then) union plumbers used to laugh.....
If the far end of the recirc line is higher than the return point at the tank.... i.e. pull off the drain valve. Usually 3/4 npt. install a brass nipple, TEE and either better drain valve or the old 1 back on. Connect the recirc return line to this point. bottom of the tank, lowest. The other end upstairs somewhere. "X" amount of feet above the other end.
Simple thermal osmosis will recirculate the water. hot water rises to the highest point, forcing the cooler water back down to the tank.
Physics Gents !
No pump required. I've installed hundreds thru the decades.....
JM2C.
again, 40 yrs of plumbing/pipefitting ex. here. Now retired.
The other end upstairs somewhere. "X" amount of feet above the other end

Can you elaborate on this. I understand the first part of the connection but not this.
 

thedan

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Just yesterday I finally installed the recirculating pump I purchased in October 2022.

😁

All you slackers out there need to up your procrastination game. I'm world class.

View attachment 1312844
I have mine on a smart outlet set to a program for my work week. If I’m doing yard work on the weekend, I just turn it on from the phone for an hour or so, have a beer, and then the hot water is ready. I have it set for 10 minutes before I wake up.
 
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thedan

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Water quality/softeners were brought up in this thread. Our place in Mohave Valley had nasty sulphur smells, previous heater had one element rotted out. Put in a new heater. Same smell. Changed annode rod to a different composition, same problem. Both looked like slimy Swiss cheese in a short time frame. Put in one of these, and it has been awesome!!! https://www.corroprotec.com/product/water-heater-anode-rod/?sku=96387
 

THE Cat Sass

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Go to Ferguson, explain what you’re looking for and their counter folks will hook you up.
 

Cobalt232

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Right on schedule. Got to Havasu last night and the water heater is rusty and damp around the opening to the burner. Rheem that will be 7 years old in February. 6 year warranty. Headed to Lowes now.
 
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Badchoices03

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My water heater sprung a leak on Wednesday, I was supposed to be out of town still but came home early do to the rain...I just happened to be in the garage in the morning, and I heard the water heater making a noise so I take a peak and its spraying water against the wall....it literally must have just happened while I was in the garage because there was only a small amount of water on the floor....if I wasnt home, who knows what kind of mess I would have come home to....

The old one was a Rheem, had a manufacture date of 8/2005, close to 19 years old, never drained it, never replaced an anode...cant complain.

I called around, and boy I must not know how much it cost to put a body in a truck, because every place I called wanted like $500 labor or more...I called Home Depot, had a new one delivered along with some new hoses....had that sucker back up and going in a few hours....mostly because I have never done one before and was being cautious....and also trying to figure out how to bring the old one down and put the new one back up on the stand by myself....
 

NicPaus

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Average price in the Southbay is $2200 for 40H natural gas. Installed to today's codes. Mike diamond smells good but $4700. Few other guys I know local $3500.

That price includes bonding hot and cold. Sediment trap. New gas supply line. New water supply lines. Haul away the old.

You had a older rheem which is good the news are known to be junk. This post from earlier.
Screenshot_20240208-105148_Facebook.jpg
 
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