Tales Of A Mercenary Mechanic

[OLDRAAT]

I have to same strippers. Pops gave them to me when I was 14 or 15 (70 now).
Taboma is correct, they do require a some learning skill on 16 ga or smaller but they are still my go to.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Always been my go to strippers for stuff like this. These have the set screw for a stop, so I set it for what feels best on the tiny stuff. Have 3 or 4 sets... all over 20 years old now. The Bic lighter was used in combo with a butane torch, as well as the soldering iron for stuff around the plug ends.

Good news, the codes were nothing I messed with.

Better news, the airbag codes he had, were from a plug they missed reassembling the car after cleaning out the rat crap.

Plugged it back in, and all the lights were clear, but one pending for a range position switch. I sent him a pick of that, and he says he'll pick one up a swap it.

Just the light saying I need to buckle up! I'm pretty happy with my success on it, no smoke and everything works!

 

[Taboma]

Always been my go to strippers for stuff like this. These have the set screw for a stop, so I set it for what feels best on the tiny stuff. Have 3 or 4 sets... all over 20 years old now. The Bic lighter was used in combo with a butane torch, as well as the soldering iron for stuff around the plug ends.

Good news, the codes were nothing I messed with.
Better news, the airbag codes he had, were from a plug they missed reassembling the car after cleaning out the rat crap.
Plugged it back in, and all the lights were clear, but one pending for a range position switch. I sent him a pick of that, and he says he'll pick one up a swap it.
Just the light saying I need to buckle up! I'm pretty happy with my success on it, no smoke and everything works!

Oh shit, you mean after 48 years, finally found somebody who uses that screw, you sir win the Prize Have you found a small butane torch that burns at other than vertical ?

Glad you're getting that wiring "Rat's Nest" sorted out. They attacked my neighbors older Land Cruiser a couple of years ago, nasty.

 

[Taboma]

I have to same strippers. Pops gave them to me when I was 14 or 15 (70 now).
Taboma is correct, they do require a some learning skill on 16 ga or smaller but they are still my go to.

Recently while retrofitting my old four foot fluorescents in my garage to ballast by-pass LEDs, I found that the #16 solid ballast wiring insulation seemed to be thermo-bonded to the copper conductors. If you so much as scratched that tiny solid copper, one or two bends and it would snap. So I had to break down and use my fancy strippers sized exactly for each conductor size. Even then, removing that insulation without scoring the wire was a real booger.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Oh shit, you mean after 48 years, finally found somebody who uses that screw, you sir win the Prize Have you found a small butane torch that burns at other than vertical ?

Glad you're getting that wiring "Rat's Nest" sorted out. They attacked my neighbors older Land Cruiser a couple of years ago, nasty.

I only have one set that still has the screw! Usually pulled out of the way, which is why the others are missing them I think. I have to look, the cheesy butane torch I've been using came in a two pack from Amazon. They work really well, but aren't very durable...the last one cracked. They do work inverted, about the size of a pocket flashlight.

 

[4Waters]

Always been my go to strippers for stuff like this. These have the set screw for a stop, so I set it for what feels best on the tiny stuff. Have 3 or 4 sets... all over 20 years old now. The Bic lighter was used in combo with a butane torch, as well as the soldering iron for stuff around the plug ends.

Good news, the codes were nothing I messed with. View attachment 1450433
Better news, the airbag codes he had, were from a plug they missed reassembling the car after cleaning out the rat crap. View attachment 1450434
Plugged it back in, and all the lights were clear, but one pending for a range position switch. I sent him a pick of that, and he says he'll pick one up a swap it. View attachment 1450439
Just the light saying I need to buckle up! I'm pretty happy with my success on it, no smoke and everything works!

12/12 warranty

12sec 12ft which ever comes first

 

[ltbaney1]

12/12 warranty

12sec 12ft which ever comes first

hell thats a good warranty. i usually give a "brake light" warranty. as soon the brake lights light up warranty is over.

 

[callbob]

I always liked the out and out warranty. Out of sight, out of warranty

 

[4Waters]

I always liked the out and out warranty. Out of sight, out of warranty

Well, in MW's defense where he lives streets are long and flat, 12/12 is better for his location

 

[monkeyswrench]

The knuckle boom from a few weeks back? It got used yesterday. Big honkin' CAT cylinder head. Much easier, and no further hernia damage! Now, the crappy part, damn thing has about 32 head bolts, and final torque is 175lbs. Think I need to invest in a longer torque wrench if these become a frequent ordeal. Everything worked out well though! Still have 9 fingers, so all is well Still more to do on the CAT, but progress was made.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Some people have Sundays off. I do sometimes, never schedule for Sundays. There are those times that the phone rings on Saturday though...and off I go in the morning.

Baby Freightliner brakes. More like what the Super C motorhomes and such have. On the rears, to do the rotors, you have to pull the axles. So here is a brief rundown.

Underneath the nuts are some washers, and conical spacers. They line up the flange to the hub. I twist them out. Once they break free, they slide off.
Take notice of the drain pan! When you get the flange off(usually with a hammer and cussing) the hub holds about a quart or so of gear oil. Now, the crappy part, only half drains. The rest finds it's way to your clothes when you fight the hub and rotor off...125-150lbs of fun.

This is how I get the axle back in. It's 50ish pounds, and the inside needs to be lifted into the splines. Push at the bottom, and use the crescent wrench for leverage to lift the end. I'm going to burn my jeans now, and hose off.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Cleaned up, watched some TV, and ate like a pig...
What I didn't get pics of were the giant retainer nut setups.I think these were 4, or 4¼" nuts. The inner one gets cranked down, to about 200ftlbs, then backed off. Then you set it to 50, and back it off ¼ turn. At this point, it should spin freely, just the heavy mass, but no dragging. The inner nut has a tit that gets captured by a large spacer ring. The ring has a bunch of holes, and is keyed to the axle. Next is a large fold over type lock washer, which is also keyed. Finally, the outer locking nut. Remember how the inner one gets set and backed off? Not the outer. The outer gets cranked down to 200-225ftlbs depending on the axle. When it's set, spin the hub and make sure it still feels right. Then, fold a couple tabs, a get some sealant on the axle flange. Not much is needed, the surfaces are machined smooth, and get bolted together tightly.

Before installing the axle, I double and triple check to make sure I bent the tabs. I've actually popped the axle back out to verify because something interrupted me, and I could not be sure. 6-700lbs flying off a big truck can kill someone, and also cause the truck to wreck as well.

 

[Sharky]

Baby Freightliner brakes. More like what the Super C motorhomes and such have. On the rears, to do the rotors, you have to pull the axles. So here is a brief rundown. View attachment 1453521
Underneath the nuts are some washers, and conical spacers. They line up the flange to the hub. I twist them out. Once they break free, they slide off.
Take notice of the drain pan! When you get the flange off(usually with a hammer and cussing) the hub holds about a quart or so of gear oil. Now, the crappy part, only half drains. The rest finds it's way to your clothes when you fight the hub and rotor off...125-150lbs of fun.

Easier way to get those cone washers out-

Take a 5 pound sledge and smack the end of the axle. HARD! Might have to do it a couple times. Right where that divot &#4 are in the picture.

The axle will bounce out pushing the cone washers out so you can grab them better.

You won't hurt the axle.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Easier way to get those cone washers out-

Take a 5 pound sledge and smack the end of the axle. HARD! Might have to do it a couple times. Right where that divot &#4 are in the picture.

The axle will bounce out pushing the cone washers out so you can grab them better.

You won't hurt the axle.

I'll have to try that one. The best one to date, I undid the nuts, and smacked the flange...it went flying It was on a Seneca coach, broke the axle right near the end.
The way I feel today, not going to be able to do these much longer without some form of mechanical assistance. I guess the hub and rotor are a bit beyond my ability now...hadn't done bigger hydraulic brakes in a bit. I think the air brake stuff isn't as bad, as the drum slides off the hub, splitting up the weight.

 

[Sharky]

Shoot, after doing several 14" corp axles on GM trucks, that's an old flat rate trick.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Shoot, after doing several 14" corp axles on GM trucks, that's an old flat rate trick.

I'd done it on little stuff...never thought to use a bigger hammer on a bigger axle
Honestly just thought the axle would laugh. I usually just use a single jack on air brake drums.

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

I'll have to try that one. The best one to date, I undid the nuts, and smacked the flange...it went flying It was on a Seneca coach, broke the axle right near the end.
The way I feel today, not going to be able to do these much longer without some form of mechanical assistance. I guess the hub and rotor are a bit beyond my ability now...hadn't done bigger hydraulic brakes in a bit. I think the air brake stuff isn't as bad, as the drum slides off the hub, splitting up the weight.

Leave the nut on 2 turns!

 

[monkeyswrench]

Friday was a bit interesting. Had been in the Arizona outback last week and diagnosed a Polaris 700 as having no spark. I'd learned on the last one, a 500, to check the plug, and the coil wire. No fire at plug, shocked the begeezus out of myself with the wire. (Turned out I'd grabbed my "chisel" screwdriver, that has the hammer pad and a full tang) I was able to verify cdi spark, much to the enjoyment of the owner.

Big old thing. As I've now learned, resistor plugs have an internal resistance coil. The start at something like 5000ohm, but crap out, and go to 80,000ohm's. This corks the spark. So, picked up plugs in town, and headed back Friday morning. Bright, sunny...and 28 degrees. The RH plug is easy, the LH requires some creativity. Pulling the tank would make it easier, but with many plastic parts, age and temperature can make it risky. So, plug socket and a wrench. Fired right up, and idled great.

Down the hill, and dirt roads, the POS showing how manly it can be. Down to the next project, which is a continuation of previous exploration.

Dropped the giant cast iron sump from the D333 CAT motor. Looking to see if there are any marks on the timing gears up front. Hoping to find something that got caught in the teeth and stuck the motor.

Pulled the starter, to access the giant starter ring. On start up, it stuck. So, I "backed" it down. 90 degrees of crank rotation, dive under and look at all visible gear faces. At one full rotation, I expected it to stick. It did not. I continued to turn and look, eyes, lights and bore scope.

Gear faces all look great. Not new, but no dents or damage.

Now, it was a bit stuck, requiring some umph to get turning. Whatever stuck it did not fall back into position. Last time, it stopped just shy of one rotation. I pulled the cap off the injector pump governor, the counter weights didn't appear damaged, nor did the housing's innards. I can't see a pump plunger stopping the motor, but possible I guess.

I put the pan back in place, and called it a day. Brother in law was headed out for daughter's graduation. Management said I needed to be home for 6pm dinner...that's a whole other story.

On the drive home, I started thinking about the oil pump. It's a giant thing, and also spins crank speed...hmm

 

[monkeyswrench]

So, back to reality today. Had the shop that does the insulation co's stuff call me and see if I could do a generator service, and replace an "ear bud looking thing". Machine is down...I told them Saturday wasn't happening, daughter grad stuff. So, Sunday it is.

Well, I get there, trailer is there, and am told "nobody is answering their phone today, and we have no parts". Well crap. They show my a pic of the part, as the company had ordered a replacement. Cool, a thermistor. They can go bad, and cut power to the heated hose. I think it's like a protection thing. I dig around the trailers tool box, as most have spare parts and consumables...even if some operators don't know.

Well, well, look what I found. In the mess of a junk drawer, a new thermistor. So, on to that job after the service on the genny.

This is a PMC "PH-2" plural component sprayer. Like a Linex rig on crack. 240v 3ph deal. It runs a hydraulic pump that drives two mirrored piston pumps from a single, double ended cylinder. The material is pumped with lift pumps out of barrels, and into two separate manifolds to be preheated. From there, it hits the piston pumps, still separate, and then down about 200ft of heated hoses at high pressure, where the material is mixed at the gun tip. The hoses themselves are insulated, and have a heating element wrapped around them.

So, I dive into the enclosure that has a giant transformer, some trinkets, and the thermistor assembly...

This ain't right The white ceramic isolator should have the two wires coming in the bottom, and the thermistor completing the circuit on top. They bypassed it. As far as I know, the thing's purpose is to protect the more delicate stuff. From what exactly, I really don't know. I just know it's there for a reason, and if something fried it, the cause needs to be found.
Told shop owner, he said replace it, that's what they asked...
Okie dokie.

Rerouted the wire, and installed the thermistor...

The machine has main power...but the three displays to the right of the green light won't come on...no juice, fried...something. Told the shop owner. Said I can check it out, will need to find out what has power and what doesn't. (I'm actually pretty familiar with these machines. Most don't know that, but I've run the same type a time or three...)
Nope, he says ship it. "They have someone that comes up from Phoenix that does their electrical"

Not smart, I don't think. I know what he pays me, and what he charges them. He pretty much just walked from money. I think the worst part, he'll charge them for the Gen service, and the thermistor replacement, but still leaves them with no working equipment. They may have someone else, but they've paid him to fix genny problems before and fix electrical stuff I've had to call lifelines for. Weird...

Here's a shot of the "brain" of the sprayer. Essentially, it's a power supply that runs three thermostats, a few relays and timers...but nothing exactly cutting edge. The generators scare me more than this thing.

 

[monkeyswrench]

How does it go?

"God grant me the serenity
to accept the things I cannot change,
courage to change the things I can,
and wisdom to know the difference."

There's gonna be some changes needing done here. Someone already has made some. Some will stay...others will not.

 

[ltbaney1]

How does it go?

"God grant me the serenity
to accept the things I cannot change,
courage to change the things I can,
and wisdom to know the difference."

There's gonna be some changes needing done here. Someone already has made some. Some will stay...others will not.
View attachment 1461373

ill admit, im not the most advanced when it comes to wiring. but that many red wires worries me. either their are that many hots, or someone got a great deal on a full spool, there are even different gages of red! on the bright side, i dont see any scotchlocks.

 

[RichL]

How does it go?

"God grant me the serenity
to accept the things I cannot change,
courage to change the things I can,
and wisdom to know the difference."

There's gonna be some changes needing done here. Someone already has made some. Some will stay...others will not.
View attachment 1461373 View attachment 1461374 View attachment 1461375

Good grief. Looks like a complete cluster flock.

 

[monkeyswrench]

ill admit, im not the most advanced when it comes to wiring. but that many red wires worries me. either their are that many hots, or someone got a great deal on a full spool, there are even different gages of red! on the bright side, i dont see any scotchlocks.

Enlarge the center dash pic...the be a lot of scotchlocks

 

[monkeyswrench]

Oh, I thought this was amusing. Warranty inspection yesterday..."check for cylinder scoring, oil condition and metal contamination" Well, that's what the paper said.
Piston #3 has left the chat
It did so in glorious fashion. The rod let loose, and the piston, small end and big end of the rod went on to solo careers.

What was left of the piston top was in the pan, with a lot of stripper glitter. The pin side of the rod went out the block, bounced off the starter and pierced the oil filter. The big end got punched out the rear.

What oil was left was contaminated, that's for sure. The cylinder walls were the least of the blocks problems

 

[Rajobigguy]

View attachment 1461466 View attachment 1461467
View attachment 1461468
Oh, I thought this was amusing. Warranty inspection yesterday..."check for cylinder scoring, oil condition and metal contamination" Well, that's what the paper said.
Piston #3 has left the chat
It did so in glorious fashion. The rod let loose, and the piston, small end and big end of the rod went on to solo careers.

What was left of the piston top was in the pan, with a lot of stripper glitter. The pin side of the rod went out the block, bounced off the starter and pierced the oil filter. The big end got punched out the rear.

What oil was left was contaminated, that's for sure. The cylinder walls were the least of the blocks problems

This reminds me of the most spectacular engine failure I ever experienced.
It was a 1970 Toyota Land Cruiser that I had dropped a Duntov Corvette motor in.
We had been playing in the sand at Pismo for a few days and then headed N.to Paso Robles to visit some friends when I started hearing some ticking from the engine. It was pretty mild and I figured that it was time to adjust the valves. A little further down the road the ticking was getting pretty obnoxious so I pulled over and did a quick valve adjustment ( solid lifter, 30-30 cam). Jumped back in and fired it up, oh oh no improvement. Looks like it’s a bit more than a simple valve adjustment. I continued on taking it extremely easy on the engine, trying to nurse it until I can get to our friends house but a few miles further down the road, tick tick tick, knock knock knock , BANG!!!
One of the rods split length wise from big end to little end. One half exited the leftside of the block and the other exited stage right.
The carnage was epic. I have never seen or even heard of a rod letting loose in this fashion especially on a well worn, tried and true engine that was several years in service.

 

[ltbaney1]

Enlarge the center dash pic...the be a lot of scotchlocks

damn your right. id be screwed. i can use a test light like a son of a bitch, but everytime i need to use a multimeter i wind up googling which setting to use. i lost the one i had with a buch of sharpie writing on the back telling me what to do.

 

[TimeBandit]

View attachment 1461466 View attachment 1461467
View attachment 1461468
Oh, I thought this was amusing. Warranty inspection yesterday..."check for cylinder scoring, oil condition and metal contamination" Well, that's what the paper said.
Piston #3 has left the chat
It did so in glorious fashion. The rod let loose, and the piston, small end and big end of the rod went on to solo careers.

What was left of the piston top was in the pan, with a lot of stripper glitter. The pin side of the rod went out the block, bounced off the starter and pierced the oil filter. The big end got punched out the rear.

What oil was left was contaminated, that's for sure. The cylinder walls were the least of the blocks problems

Is anybody concerned with "cause of death" ?? who figures that out?

 

[monkeyswrench]

Is anybody concerned with "cause of death" ?? who figures that out?

Normally, the warranty folk want every record of maintenance...this guy had a 3 ring binder. It was impressive. I talked with the tech. Apparently these motors have had some issues, and rod failures happen. The car was an '18, with 120k. Beautiful, well maintained ride.
I'm afraid to say what type of car though, don't want to get the dealer or especially the tech somehow in trouble.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Anyone have a bunch of spare money and want a badass Renegade Super C? A guy I do work for is selling this thing, 39ft and pimp. I'd only seen them in industrial white.

It has 39k on the clock, and I think it's a '13. He bought it with 30 on it a few years ago. I don't know what they go for, so I asked. Pretty sure he said he's going to ask 175
Just a tad beyond my means

What was really cool, aside from the thing being perfect, she's set to tow! 2000lb tongue weight, 20,000lb capacity...and plumbed for air brakes. He used it to tow a 26ft hauler for a road race car, but decided it's time to slow down I guess.

 

[monkeyswrench]

This is what I've found is an option when checking continuity and such on abnormally big vehicles. I have the 30ft spooled jumper leads, but they don't fly on a 45ft bus. Now, a 50ft extension cord is something most have kicking around.

Run a normal jumper to the screwdriver popped into the end of the cord, now you have a 50ft jumper.

It's looking as more power feeds we're attached to ground. This thing had been messed with by a body shop, a "detailer" and the Cummins dealer. At least the body and paint turned out very nice...but they needed to keep their hands out of things.

 

[monkeyswrench]

The doodad there with the braided lines is apparently some sort of pressure control for the power steering. This is a Mustang 2+2 with a 5.0, rack and pinion, and a bunch of weirdness. Owner complaint was steering not being smooth, and power almost disappears with throttle. The doodad is the only variable, and it made no difference when adjusted...so it came out.

It was basically a spring loaded, adjustable bypass. The spring I believe was way too soft, and allowing bleed off of pressure. To test my theory, some Ace Hardware 1/4 and 3/8's pipe unions were installed in place of the thing, same hoses and AN's, just put together. Works fine now. May have some custom hoses built, but for now the guy is just happy it works better.

When I was packing up, he asked me if I had any use for a few items. A 55lb overseas anvil, a motorcycle jack...and a vise. Of course I have use for the stuff! So, loaded up the Prius with my new to me goodies...

Got home, and started on the bus again. Made some progress...got the slides working, and the generator fired up. That may take a bit more work...but still progress. Things huge inside when puffed out.

 

[callbob]

Slides can be fun when they quit. I researched mine and found you can put a wrench on them to manually pull it back in if needed. Haven’t had to thank god. The only problem would be the big passenger side where there is 2 manual slide nuts and they say they have to be done at the same time. Little hard to do being about 16’ apart. I do carry a Dewalt corded 1/2 impact and a chinesium 1/2 cordless impact but would need to find a helper. Probably would just call a mobile repair guy and bend over.

 

[Taboma]

View attachment 1462977
The doodad there with the braided lines is apparently some sort of pressure control for the power steering. This is a Mustang 2+2 with a 5.0, rack and pinion, and a bunch of weirdness. Owner complaint was steering not being smooth, and power almost disappears with throttle. The doodad is the only variable, and it made no difference when adjusted...so it came out.

It was basically a spring loaded, adjustable bypass. The spring I believe was way too soft, and allowing bleed off of pressure. To test my theory, some Ace Hardware 1/4 and 3/8's pipe unions were installed in place of the thing, same hoses and AN's, just put together. Works fine now. May have some custom hoses built, but for now the guy is just happy it works better.

When I was packing up, he asked me if I had any use for a few items. A 55lb overseas anvil, a motorcycle jack...and a vise. Of course I have use for the stuff! So, loaded up the Prius with my new to me goodies...
Got home, and started on the bus again. Made some progress...got the slides working, and the generator fired up. That may take a bit more work...but still progress. Things huge inside when puffed out.

Heidts PS101 ----

 

[monkeyswrench]

Heidts PS101 ----
View attachment 1463108

Yep, that's the one. Never blown one apart until yesterday. I wanted to see if something had come apart, causing it to lose pressure. I really think the spring was just weak, as throttle seemed to make it bypass. The guy that owns the car is more in need of power assist now. I only felt it previous testing in the garage, and it was kind of goofy feeling.

This guy knows cars, and driving, he just can't turn wrenches anymore. I took these pics, he has raced some pretty serious stuff. This fastback is just a tinker around car. He wants it more "sporty" feeling, and is whittling away at things that bug him.

 

[Taboma]

Yep, that's the one. Never blown one apart until yesterday. I wanted to see if something had come apart, causing it to lose pressure. I really think the spring was just weak, as throttle seemed to make it bypass. The guy that owns the car is more in need of power assist now. I only felt it previous testing in the garage, and it was kind of goofy feeling.

This guy knows cars, and driving, he just can't turn wrenches anymore. I took these pics, he has raced some pretty serious stuff. This fastback is just a tinker around car. He wants it more "sporty" feeling, and is whittling away at things that bug him. View attachment 1463111 View attachment 1463112 View attachment 1463114

Impressive pictorial resume

 

[monkeyswrench]

Impressive pictorial resume

Some pages back I posted pics of his last race car. It was a "vintage" road course Mercury Capri. When he sold the #68 Shelby, he kept a pretty cool piece, the Shelby dual quad intake with sequential carbs...Ford porn stuff

 

[monkeyswrench]

And the quest continues. Some of the previous people that messed with this motorhome should be shot. Checking coach battery leads...they're all screwed up. Turns out you shouldn't put reds and blacks together, even if the black is marked positive...which it wasn't, it was a main gound for one of the inverters

Oh well, done for the day. Time to make sugar cookies, eat dinner and watch "Elf"...Merry Chistmas!

 

[ltbaney1]

And the quest continues. Some of the previous people that messed with this motorhome should be shot. Checking coach battery leads...they're all screwed up. Turns out you shouldn't put reds and blacks together, even if the black is marked positive...which it wasn't, it was a main gound for one of the inverters
View attachment 1463199 View attachment 1463200 View attachment 1463201
Oh well, done for the day. Time to make sugar cookies, eat dinner and watch "Elf"...Merry Chistmas!

Merry Christmas!!

 

[OLDRAAT]

Merry Christmas Kevin and family.

 

[TimeBandit]

A Wilton USA vice and an anvil? xmas gold right there.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Merry Christmas Kevin and family.

Thank you, and you as well!

A Wilton USA vice and an anvil? xmas gold right there.

Pretty cool stuff. The anvil is a little 55#, but easily handled. It will become the "mobile" one...beats holding a sledge between my feet and beating things with a single jack. The vice is my first Wilton, and also my newest. It will find a home in the shop, and one of the Monarchs will get mounted on the truck project.

 

[monkeyswrench]

The hits just keep on coming! The motorhome is just full of surprises. Next on the punch list, why the alternator isn't charging. Well, going off of previously learned examples, wire check. In theory, the hot from the alternator needs to somehow make it's way to the battery circuit. Starting at the alternator B+ stud, and start tracing.

The charge wire is bigger than most normal cars battery cables. Oddly enough, showing as a ground on the meter...

Up there near the middle, is a stud with a bunch of heavy cables on it. This would be the GROUND stud on the back of the starter! Well now, this is not where the charge wire should go. More than likely the ignition fuse for the alternator is blown...if not, this would have been a smoke show. This also means that the coach made it here on battery power, and why all the batteries were drained.

Slowly making progress...

 

[monkeyswrench]

About 7pm, got it buttoned up. Crapshoot time...not particularly confident in this one Adjusted the valves and put the starter back in. Got the giant steel bottom plate sealed back up, the sump/pickup installed and a slightly modified oil feed lengthened by @The Chicken. Sealed up the cast iron oil pan, and almost managed to install it without making a mess. Had to wash my hair three times...turns out Right Stuff is water proof. Funny thing, none on my hands. Well, we'll see what happens. Needs oil and batteries to test fire, and some creative sealing on the radiator neck before coolant and real run time.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Last week I'd mentioned in another thread that wife's car developed a slight rod knock. Don't have the coin for a newer car, but have enough for some parts, I have tools, and just enough knowledge to be dangerous.

Luckily, her Avalanche is a 2wd, so you can pull one crossmember, and the pan is easy to get to. The rod bearings on an LS are just SBC ones, so that's easy enough to source. The bearings showed some wear, but not as much as I expected.

The thing that got me, was the back sides. The backs showed a lot of copper...which was really odd to me. That said, this motor has 260k on it. Usually, I get them after catastrophic oops's, and with less miles. The tangs that hold the bearings in place were beat up, like it was getting close to spinning multiple bearings.

As you can see, the back of the bearings all had this copper showing...beaten maybe, but not worn like I would have thought.

Here's the back side of a new bearing for comparison. Shiny babbitt material, like the inside.

So, put new ones in, and hoped for the best. Torque on the rod caps is the new and modern BS...15ftlb and 75 degrees. Digital torque wrench time, PITA.

Buttoned up the bottom end, but wasn't done yet. The water pump was starting to leak two weeks ago, so I had one of them coming too.

Yes, my New Year's Day was fun! Put oil in and coolant, crossed my fingers, and fired it up.
Success! That babbitt missing from the outers was enough to make that rattle I'd heard. Luckily I heard it before a bearing spun and wrecked everything. Wife is happy, she gets to drive her car again. Need to reseal the valve covers, but that'll be another day.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Well now, back to the motorcoach of doom. There has been some wiring fukery. When I got the thing wired as it's supposed to be, she died while idling, and would not restart. The gauges wouldn't light up, like the ECU died Started by checking fuses and relays, all good. Was worried wires were crossed, and I fried the ECU. So, pulled the plug on the ECU to verify what got juice. Cool, the 5 battery feeds did, but with key on, the wake up signal did not.
Good, and bad. At least I had a direction.

This little gem is the power distribution at the rear of the coach. Pulled it out to check continuity, as voltage was shakey.

Full of dirt and corrosion...so, cleaned it up and pinned it out. New ones, well, used ones, are 300$ and a week out. Not happening.

When done, continuity was better, voltage for the key on feed low, but stable...Fk! So, start chasing a pink wire down 40+ feet of crap. Used the handy dandy snitch box, which will beep louder at a bad connection...

See the pink wire, with the push pins? There's a break in the middle. The pins were used as probes, and resistance checked between. Wiggle the wire, between 1 and 5 ohms. Not good. Jumped it using the pins, and the ECU woke up. Wire has probably been the major problem every other shop faught. Honestly, it's a miracle it made it here. I think how it was running before was a mix and match wire fiasco at the alternator. The battery would die over night. I think the wire they assumed was a sense wire was for the ecu feed. By putting it on the sense post, there is no diode, and it back fed the ecu, keeping it "awake". I don't know though, really F'n weird.

It runs again, and the system charges. Tomorrow I'm messing with the house batteries and inverters. Need to see what works and doesn't there. The levelers are working good, and got one to quit leaking. The the genny runs good, but need to check all three ac's. Dash air works now...slowly chipping away.

 

[4Waters]

Well now, back to the motorcoach of doom. There has been some wiring fukery. When I got the thing wired as it's supposed to be, she died while idling, and would not restart. The gauges wouldn't light up, like the ECU died Started by checking fuses and relays, all good. Was worried wires were crossed, and I fried the ECU. So, pulled the plug on the ECU to verify what got juice. Cool, the 5 battery feeds did, but with key on, the wake up signal did not.
Good, and bad. At least I had a direction. View attachment 1467122
This little gem is the power distribution at the rear of the coach. Pulled it out to check continuity, as voltage was shakey. View attachment 1467123
Full of dirt and corrosion...so, cleaned it up and pinned it out. New ones, well, used ones, are 300$ and a week out. Not happening.

When done, continuity was better, voltage for the key on feed low, but stable...Fk! So, start chasing a pink wire down 40+ feet of crap. Used the handy dandy snitch box, which will beep louder at a bad connection... View attachment 1467126
See the pink wire, with the push pins? There's a break in the middle. The pins were used as probes, and resistance checked between. Wiggle the wire, between 1 and 5 ohms. Not good. Jumped it using the pins, and the ECU woke up. Wire has probably been the major problem every other shop faught. Honestly, it's a miracle it made it here. I think how it was running before was a mix and match wire fiasco at the alternator. The battery would die over night. I think the wire they assumed was a sense wire was for the ecu feed. By putting it on the sense post, there is no diode, and it back fed the ecu, keeping it "awake". I don't know though, really F'n weird.

It runs again, and the system charges. Tomorrow I'm messing with the house batteries and inverters. Need to see what works and doesn't there. The levelers are working good, and got one to quit leaking. The the genny runs good, but need to check all three ac's. Dash air works now...slowly chipping away.

Did you put some dielectric grease on that when you reassembled it?

 

[endobear]

You are a machine . Wish I had 10% of your skill.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Did you put some dielectric grease on that when you reassembled it?

Yes I did. Going to remount the box and relays in a better spot as well, The setup was low enough on the chassis it caught a lot of road grime. I don't think that will be an issue, as it won't be headed anywhere snowy or coastal even.

You are a machine . Wish I had 10% of your skill.

Thank you. The "skills" really aren't much, just stuff picked up on from a long time of owning used stuff. When I was talking to the owner today, I explained to him how this system worked. Power goes from the battery, to that box, to the switch, then back to the box, turns on the computer, which sends signals back to the dash. A normal car or truck does it in 3-4 feet...this one does in 45ft. Same stuff, just bigger.

 

[The Chicken]

Ouch on the crossed up inverter battery leads-reverse polarity there is often a ruined inverter.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Ouch on the crossed up inverter battery leads-reverse polarity there is often a ruined inverter.

It blew one big ass fuse...I think I'm actually a bit more worried the other didn't pop. I need to figure out if they both work or not, and to what extent. This think was made for campground type, snowbird stuff. I think it may require both inverters to be working for the giant fridge...that is not a dual, a massive 110/120 home unit.

It has 2 Xantrex 458's in it. Oddly, I have one here I'd squirreled away for a future service truck. I didn't realize they are 1400$ each now. If he needs one, I'd sell him mine cheap, because I know I didn't pay much for it. If he needs two though, may have to see what's on the market as an upgrade/modern option.