Tales Of A Mercenary Mechanic

[OLDRAAT]

I have to same strippers. Pops gave them to me when I was 14 or 15 (70 now).
Taboma is correct, they do require a some learning skill on 16 ga or smaller but they are still my go to.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Always been my go to strippers for stuff like this. These have the set screw for a stop, so I set it for what feels best on the tiny stuff. Have 3 or 4 sets... all over 20 years old now. The Bic lighter was used in combo with a butane torch, as well as the soldering iron for stuff around the plug ends.

Good news, the codes were nothing I messed with.

Better news, the airbag codes he had, were from a plug they missed reassembling the car after cleaning out the rat crap.

Plugged it back in, and all the lights were clear, but one pending for a range position switch. I sent him a pick of that, and he says he'll pick one up a swap it.

Just the light saying I need to buckle up! I'm pretty happy with my success on it, no smoke and everything works!

 

[Taboma]

Always been my go to strippers for stuff like this. These have the set screw for a stop, so I set it for what feels best on the tiny stuff. Have 3 or 4 sets... all over 20 years old now. The Bic lighter was used in combo with a butane torch, as well as the soldering iron for stuff around the plug ends.

Good news, the codes were nothing I messed with.
Better news, the airbag codes he had, were from a plug they missed reassembling the car after cleaning out the rat crap.
Plugged it back in, and all the lights were clear, but one pending for a range position switch. I sent him a pick of that, and he says he'll pick one up a swap it.
Just the light saying I need to buckle up! I'm pretty happy with my success on it, no smoke and everything works!

Oh shit, you mean after 48 years, finally found somebody who uses that screw, you sir win the Prize Have you found a small butane torch that burns at other than vertical ?

Glad you're getting that wiring "Rat's Nest" sorted out. They attacked my neighbors older Land Cruiser a couple of years ago, nasty.

 

[Taboma]

I have to same strippers. Pops gave them to me when I was 14 or 15 (70 now).
Taboma is correct, they do require a some learning skill on 16 ga or smaller but they are still my go to.

Recently while retrofitting my old four foot fluorescents in my garage to ballast by-pass LEDs, I found that the #16 solid ballast wiring insulation seemed to be thermo-bonded to the copper conductors. If you so much as scratched that tiny solid copper, one or two bends and it would snap. So I had to break down and use my fancy strippers sized exactly for each conductor size. Even then, removing that insulation without scoring the wire was a real booger.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Oh shit, you mean after 48 years, finally found somebody who uses that screw, you sir win the Prize Have you found a small butane torch that burns at other than vertical ?

Glad you're getting that wiring "Rat's Nest" sorted out. They attacked my neighbors older Land Cruiser a couple of years ago, nasty.

I only have one set that still has the screw! Usually pulled out of the way, which is why the others are missing them I think. I have to look, the cheesy butane torch I've been using came in a two pack from Amazon. They work really well, but aren't very durable...the last one cracked. They do work inverted, about the size of a pocket flashlight.

 

[4Waters]

Always been my go to strippers for stuff like this. These have the set screw for a stop, so I set it for what feels best on the tiny stuff. Have 3 or 4 sets... all over 20 years old now. The Bic lighter was used in combo with a butane torch, as well as the soldering iron for stuff around the plug ends.

Good news, the codes were nothing I messed with. View attachment 1450433
Better news, the airbag codes he had, were from a plug they missed reassembling the car after cleaning out the rat crap. View attachment 1450434
Plugged it back in, and all the lights were clear, but one pending for a range position switch. I sent him a pick of that, and he says he'll pick one up a swap it. View attachment 1450439
Just the light saying I need to buckle up! I'm pretty happy with my success on it, no smoke and everything works!

12/12 warranty

12sec 12ft which ever comes first

 

[ltbaney1]

12/12 warranty

12sec 12ft which ever comes first

hell thats a good warranty. i usually give a "brake light" warranty. as soon the brake lights light up warranty is over.

 

[callbob]

I always liked the out and out warranty. Out of sight, out of warranty

 

[4Waters]

I always liked the out and out warranty. Out of sight, out of warranty

Well, in MW's defense where he lives streets are long and flat, 12/12 is better for his location

 

[monkeyswrench]

The knuckle boom from a few weeks back? It got used yesterday. Big honkin' CAT cylinder head. Much easier, and no further hernia damage! Now, the crappy part, damn thing has about 32 head bolts, and final torque is 175lbs. Think I need to invest in a longer torque wrench if these become a frequent ordeal. Everything worked out well though! Still have 9 fingers, so all is well Still more to do on the CAT, but progress was made.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Some people have Sundays off. I do sometimes, never schedule for Sundays. There are those times that the phone rings on Saturday though...and off I go in the morning.

Baby Freightliner brakes. More like what the Super C motorhomes and such have. On the rears, to do the rotors, you have to pull the axles. So here is a brief rundown.

Underneath the nuts are some washers, and conical spacers. They line up the flange to the hub. I twist them out. Once they break free, they slide off.
Take notice of the drain pan! When you get the flange off(usually with a hammer and cussing) the hub holds about a quart or so of gear oil. Now, the crappy part, only half drains. The rest finds it's way to your clothes when you fight the hub and rotor off...125-150lbs of fun.

This is how I get the axle back in. It's 50ish pounds, and the inside needs to be lifted into the splines. Push at the bottom, and use the crescent wrench for leverage to lift the end. I'm going to burn my jeans now, and hose off.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Cleaned up, watched some TV, and ate like a pig...
What I didn't get pics of were the giant retainer nut setups.I think these were 4, or 4¼" nuts. The inner one gets cranked down, to about 200ftlbs, then backed off. Then you set it to 50, and back it off ¼ turn. At this point, it should spin freely, just the heavy mass, but no dragging. The inner nut has a tit that gets captured by a large spacer ring. The ring has a bunch of holes, and is keyed to the axle. Next is a large fold over type lock washer, which is also keyed. Finally, the outer locking nut. Remember how the inner one gets set and backed off? Not the outer. The outer gets cranked down to 200-225ftlbs depending on the axle. When it's set, spin the hub and make sure it still feels right. Then, fold a couple tabs, a get some sealant on the axle flange. Not much is needed, the surfaces are machined smooth, and get bolted together tightly.

Before installing the axle, I double and triple check to make sure I bent the tabs. I've actually popped the axle back out to verify because something interrupted me, and I could not be sure. 6-700lbs flying off a big truck can kill someone, and also cause the truck to wreck as well.

 

[Sharky]

Baby Freightliner brakes. More like what the Super C motorhomes and such have. On the rears, to do the rotors, you have to pull the axles. So here is a brief rundown. View attachment 1453521
Underneath the nuts are some washers, and conical spacers. They line up the flange to the hub. I twist them out. Once they break free, they slide off.
Take notice of the drain pan! When you get the flange off(usually with a hammer and cussing) the hub holds about a quart or so of gear oil. Now, the crappy part, only half drains. The rest finds it's way to your clothes when you fight the hub and rotor off...125-150lbs of fun.

Easier way to get those cone washers out-

Take a 5 pound sledge and smack the end of the axle. HARD! Might have to do it a couple times. Right where that divot &#4 are in the picture.

The axle will bounce out pushing the cone washers out so you can grab them better.

You won't hurt the axle.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Easier way to get those cone washers out-

Take a 5 pound sledge and smack the end of the axle. HARD! Might have to do it a couple times. Right where that divot &#4 are in the picture.

The axle will bounce out pushing the cone washers out so you can grab them better.

You won't hurt the axle.

I'll have to try that one. The best one to date, I undid the nuts, and smacked the flange...it went flying It was on a Seneca coach, broke the axle right near the end.
The way I feel today, not going to be able to do these much longer without some form of mechanical assistance. I guess the hub and rotor are a bit beyond my ability now...hadn't done bigger hydraulic brakes in a bit. I think the air brake stuff isn't as bad, as the drum slides off the hub, splitting up the weight.

 

[Sharky]

Shoot, after doing several 14" corp axles on GM trucks, that's an old flat rate trick.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Shoot, after doing several 14" corp axles on GM trucks, that's an old flat rate trick.

I'd done it on little stuff...never thought to use a bigger hammer on a bigger axle
Honestly just thought the axle would laugh. I usually just use a single jack on air brake drums.

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

I'll have to try that one. The best one to date, I undid the nuts, and smacked the flange...it went flying It was on a Seneca coach, broke the axle right near the end.
The way I feel today, not going to be able to do these much longer without some form of mechanical assistance. I guess the hub and rotor are a bit beyond my ability now...hadn't done bigger hydraulic brakes in a bit. I think the air brake stuff isn't as bad, as the drum slides off the hub, splitting up the weight.

Leave the nut on 2 turns!