Shlbyntro
Ultra Conservative
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- May 27, 2018
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my favorite strippers! maybe not as good as hubbas but they do the job well
Funny, my favorite strippers had different names...my favorite strippers! maybe not as good as hubbas but they do the job well
Good catch, the back of my hand is bleeding just looking at the picRolling through this thread and the pic below caught my eye. if you are anything like me, this corner will jump out and grab you when you already pissed off and in a rush. maybe round it off or at least put some door edge moulding around it? not trying to nit pick, just something that caught my eye.
View attachment 1335238
Looking good Kevin.View attachment 1335236
Rewired the trailer plug to a 7 pin, so I can add a battery later, and hopefully electric brakes. It was a flat 4 I put on it when I first picked it up...had a round 5. Then, first "test drive". Went 2 miles of rutted or washboard dirt road at 25mph or so...did not take it easy. Then 2 miles on pavement, reaching 50. Compressor moved a little, and the writing tray wiggled out a little. Only about 50lbs in the toolbox, but a little fine tuning and I'll be moving on to liquids storage in the tack area.
Typical romantic Valentines Day here in Monkeyville.
The lower part of the radius, the open side, is about a half inch from the flat face of the box. I wanted to do a tube cap, cut in half. What I'll have to do though, is cut a piece of tubing to space the cap so the radii will match. What I'll probably do for now is slit a few inches of vacuum line, and run it around the edge. It's not real sharp, but I could see it turning into a mellon ballerRolling through this thread and the pic below caught my eye. if you are anything like me, this corner will jump out and grab you when you already pissed off and in a rush. maybe round it off or at least put some door edge moulding around it? not trying to nit pick, just something that caught my eye.
View attachment 1335238
hate surge brakes
Most likely because it was never intended to haul the actual limit of weight haha!First thing's first...or "safety third" around here. View attachment 1336353
So, started work on the tack area. Should be able to fit 5 5gl buckets. Figure oils, ATF and hydraulic fluid. View attachment 1336354
Loaded the tool box almost completely...even the fun drawer. Rethreading and EZ-outs. Ever seen one of these? Large thread chaser/repair. Works on spindles and axles. View attachment 1336356
So, it's probably 80% loaded weight wise. So road tested again. Still need to work on brakes, hate surge brakes, but it will keep them for now. Tracks straight at 70, feels pretty decent...just kind of weird. View attachment 1336358
That's kind of why I figured this would work out. The horses we had were 11-1200lbs each. Not huge, but not small. This trailer was a bit overkill for them, but was setup with te watertank on the nose, and the rack for bales. It's also 7ft on the inside, pretty tall. Horses have a high center of gravity, so the axles are drop axles. In comparison, I've put the mass pretty low. Never really had a trailer with this narrow of track.Most likely because it was never intended to haul the actual limit of weight haha!
A horse and tack for a big Quarter Horse is only around 1500-1700 LBS....Jerry Lee (our old war horse) was 1200-1300, a Percheron Draft Cross that was YUGE (Tri Tone Paint that did Dressage...!)
Anyhooo as usual everything looks bitchin buddy, keep on keepin on!
First thing's first...or "safety third" around here. View attachment 1336353
So, started work on the tack area. Should be able to fit 5 5gl buckets. Figure oils, ATF and hydraulic fluid. View attachment 1336354
Loaded the tool box almost completely...even the fun drawer. Rethreading and EZ-outs. Ever seen one of these? Large thread chaser/repair. Works on spindles and axles. View attachment 1336356
So, it's probably 80% loaded weight wise. So road tested again. Still need to work on brakes, hate surge brakes, but it will keep them for now. Tracks straight at 70, feels pretty decent...just kind of weird. View attachment 1336358
That's kind of why I figured this would work out. The horses we had were 11-1200lbs each. Not huge, but not small. This trailer was a bit overkill for them, but was setup with te watertank on the nose, and the rack for bales. It's also 7ft on the inside, pretty tall. Horses have a high center of gravity, so the axles are drop axles. In comparison, I've put the mass pretty low. Never really had a trailer with this narrow of track.
He'll, if this works out, and I can buy a cheap 1ton 4x4, I have an old 6 horse head to head with living quarters. Then I could run a full shop
"Midnight Auto Supply" is what we used to call parts from "questionable" individuals. I knew a bunch of said suppliers. The problem with anything other than flat repair or semi truck stuff is the variety of electrical issues in modern cars.If you get the bigger trailer set aside an area to sleep. Do repair calls in the evenings. You cold make bank with the crapping conditions of the 40. The you will need to change your screen name. I’d like to suggest going from @monkeyswrench to “Midnight Monkey Mechanics” or just go by 3M. LOLOlololol
Something fun filled and exciting yesterday. Skid steer tracks. I've removed tracks before to replace messed up idlers, bogies and even one tensioner someone managed to screw up...but never put on new tracks.
They suck balls!
The old ones are, apparently, a whole lot easier to work with. They're still heavy as hell, but flexible enough to "roll". All you have to do is straddle the end, grab each side and pull. Pull, step back, pull...repeat until out of the way or in position. View attachment 1341429
In this case, some wood cribbing is under the back. You push the bucket down and pivot the rear down. Same deal on most tracked deals. This one was getting new sprockets as well, because the tracks were of an upgraded design. The rear idlers need to be removed to do that. There are 4 bolts on each idler, and they aren't light. They have a vertical alignment brace, but can move close to ³/⁸the horizontally. This one was in good shape, so it went right back to the witness marks. If it were hammered, you'd have to, or should, mark the position. I found the torque specs online, and they were in Nm (Newton Meters, not New Mexico). Thread locker is required, and then torqued down with my handy-dandy digital beeping wrench...previously used only for tty stuff.
Now, remember I said new tracks suck? I flopped one off the pallet, thinking I had a chance. That F'r laughed at me! Being fresh vulcanized pieces, they didn't want to "roll". I'm not quite the gorilla I once was, now just a monkey. Luckily the owner had a mini-ex, and knows how to run it. That thing picked up those 600lb tracks like tissue paper. The owner helped me pry them on after using the other tractor to get them lined up.
I've also decided I need bigger prybars. A 48" Snap-on and a 40" Mac barely worked....learning curves.
Used some gnarly 2" pipe...compressed the tensioner more and took some slack out of the econo-sized rubber bands. definitely need to put digging bars in the horse trailer when it goes into service. I think I scrapped all my early Ford driveshafts though...a little grinder work and those things are perfect.Laughing cause I've been there. I use 6' rock bars. Or any thick wall 2.5" pipe and you can kind of roll them in.
Good stuff!
Used some gnarly 2" pipe...compressed the tensioner more and took some slack out of the econo-sized rubber bands. definitely need to put digging bars in the horse trailer when it goes into service. I think I scrapped all my early Ford driveshafts though...a little grinder work and those things are perfect.
Shit, had 2 Model A driveshafts we gave to the scrap guys a few months ago.Used some gnarly 2" pipe...compressed the tensioner more and took some slack out of the econo-sized rubber bands. definitely need to put digging bars in the horse trailer when it goes into service. I think I scrapped all my early Ford driveshafts though...a little grinder work and those things are perfect.
That's funny! That was my suggestion. Too heavy to throw away, would last forever as planters.Old tracks make cool garden beds in front of the shop.
Model A and 1932 drive shafts are probably the best, already tapered on one end.Shit, had 2 Model A driveshafts we gave to the scrap guys a few months ago.
Normally I don't name drop who has what...but if they speak up it's OK. Otherwise you may get those random messages...like asking to borrow car trailers and stuffCrap! We should have gotten pictures of the super-cool redneck track grapple we rigged up!
Thanks again! Machine is much happier with new shoes.
Just in case there happens to be somebody reading this who owns one of these older Takeuchis, what we got for it is not just new tracks, but a kit from Bridgestone (who was the OEM track manufacturer for the Taks) called a pitch kit. The Taks have a unique and robust track system-but it rides like shit. The pitch kit changes the track pitch to a more common and closer spaced pitch (thus the sprocket change). The result is a machine that is a completely different animal. It's so smooth and quiet now it's like a brand new machine. If you own one of these, I would highly recommend this conversion kit. It will probably pay for itself just from not bouncing stuff off the pallet forks anymore. I'd also highly reccommend Track Hutt www.trackhutt.com whose owner gave solid advice and great service in getting these parts to me at a great price point.
This is exciting, the poor ride characteristics kept me from borrowing your skiddy more often. Please top the fuel off in that bitch for me.Crap! We should have gotten pictures of the super-cool redneck track grapple we rigged up!
Thanks again! Machine is much happier with new shoes.
Just in case there happens to be somebody reading this who owns one of these older Takeuchis, what we got for it is not just new tracks, but a kit from Bridgestone (who was the OEM track manufacturer for the Taks) called a pitch kit. The Taks have a unique and robust track system-but it rides like shit. The pitch kit changes the track pitch to a more common and closer spaced pitch (thus the sprocket change). The result is a machine that is a completely different animal. It's so smooth and quiet now it's like a brand new machine. If you own one of these, I would highly recommend this conversion kit. It will probably pay for itself just from not bouncing stuff off the pallet forks anymore. I'd also highly reccommend Track Hutt www.trackhutt.com whose owner gave solid advice and great service in getting these parts to me at a great price point.
I think your no name drop policy is sound unless you've cleared it with the owner.Normally I don't name drop who has what...but if they speak up it's OK. Otherwise you may get those random messages...like asking to borrow car trailers and stuff
I'm just glad the tracks worked as advertised. If you order a set of boots, you'd be pissed if you got Converse. That's a lot of money and effort for new shoes. Not like the shoe store where you can try them on either.
Did you notice the @dread Pirate 's planter box comment? It may be a universal thing for boondock dwellers
A Mopar torsion bar would work great here!!I've also decided I need bigger prybars. A 48" Snap-on and a 40" Mac barely worked....learning curves.
I think your no name drop policy is sound unless you've cleared it with the owner.
I just chimed in really to thank you.
And on the really long shot that that track info helps someone else out.
And yes! Saw the planter box comment!!
.., here’s what scares me… I understood everything you said…After dinner tonight, got started on resealing a B400LV steering pump. BIG pump off a dump truck. I'd started to redo it on site, but cut a seal. Felt like a damn moron. So, brought it back home, got the mic out and found seals. The kit was chinesium...screw that. Found SKF's, German owned Mexican parts instead
View attachment 1354380
Cleaned all the parts, and found the center bolt missing, was actually broken. Damn. Oh well, just another step. The seals I found for the shaft were half width, so the will ride either side of old wear surface. View attachment 1354382
What screwed me on the last seal, was trying to jump this step without proper gear. View attachment 1354383
So this time I used a seal pusher. These things are great for seals, there very smooth but strong enough persuade things. View attachment 1354384 View attachment 1354385
Finished off a few minutes ago, drilled and removed the broken bolt...good time to stop. Tomorrow reseal the reservoir, and maybe checkout the runout and see the if I can lesson the end play.[room ATTACH type="full"]1354386[/ATTACH]
I'm pretty excited about this. That pump has puked oil since the day we bought that truck. Over the course of 8 or 9 years, I've dumped a 55 gallon drum of power steering fluid in it! Thanks KevinAfter dinner tonight, got started on resealing a B400LV steering pump. BIG pump off a dump truck. I'd started to redo it on site, but cut a seal. Felt like a damn moron. So, brought it back home, got the mic out and found seals. The kit was chinesium...screw that. Found SKF's, German owned Mexican parts instead
View attachment 1354380
Cleaned all the parts, and found the center bolt missing, was actually broken. Damn. Oh well, just another step. The seals I found for the shaft were half width, so the will ride either side of old wear surface. View attachment 1354382
What screwed me on the last seal, was trying to jump this step without proper gear. View attachment 1354383
So this time I used a seal pusher. These things are great for seals, there very smooth but strong enough persuade things. View attachment 1354384 View attachment 1354385
Finished off a few minutes ago, drilled and removed the broken bolt...good time to stop. Tomorrow reseal the reservoir, and maybe checkout the runout and see the if I can lesson the end play. View attachment 1354386
Tell us curious students more about this "seal pusher" tool. My quick Google search brings up lots of seal pullers and seal drivers but nada on seal pushers.After dinner tonight, got started on resealing a B400LV steering pump. BIG pump off a dump truck. I'd started to redo it on site, but cut a seal. Felt like a damn moron. So, brought it back home, got the mic out and found seals. The kit was chinesium...screw that. Found SKF's, German owned Mexican parts instead
View attachment 1354380
Cleaned all the parts, and found the center bolt missing, was actually broken. Damn. Oh well, just another step. The seals I found for the shaft were half width, so the will ride either side of old wear surface. View attachment 1354382
What screwed me on the last seal, was trying to jump this step without proper gear. View attachment 1354383
So this time I used a seal pusher. These things are great for seals, there very smooth but strong enough persuade things. View attachment 1354384 View attachment 1354385
Finished off a few minutes ago, drilled and removed the broken bolt...good time to stop. Tomorrow reseal the reservoir, and maybe checkout the runout and see the if I can lesson the end play. View attachment 1354386
I'll try to find the "official" name. The ones I have are SnapOn. The only reason they are, saw them on the truck and at a time I was fighting with an old vent window seal. I'm sure others make them.Tell us curious students more about this "seal pusher" tool. My quick Google search brings up lots of seal pullers and seal drivers but nada on seal pushers.
BTW, this is one of the better threads here on the ol RDP. I almost always learn something new from the journals of your adventures. Thanks.
Sorry to hear about your son's situation.Busy afternoon, older son had a spasm deal, whipped his neck to the back and right...smacking his head into the window sill behind where he was sitting. Took him to be checked out at ER...no sign of concussion or orbital fracture...he hit hard.
So, after dinner I started reassembling the pump. Earlier in the day I'd popped the reservoir off, and found a filter in there! Figured it needed changing. View attachment 1354834 View attachment 1354835
The element is gone in places, clogged in others. The housing itself is suffering metal fatigue. Called everywhere, looked online, had Jeff at NAPA search the books...NA. Found a definite maybe, but it was over 100$! Nope. Before reassembly, owner happened to call, and I checked to see if it was ok to install an external one. He's good with that, and it makes it serviceable without pulling the whole thing apart.
View attachment 1354836
Here's what's inside. Those are the two studs that hold the cover on, and a bracket when installed. I made new studs, the old ones looked a little rough.
View attachment 1354837
It now has 3 bolts again! They came out a little loose, and they weren't shouldered. They had worn thin on the surviving 2. Hopefully 3 with shoulders will help. I also Loctited those as well as the studs into th pump.
View attachment 1354838
Got the key back in the shaft, and the pulley back on, right about sundown.
This will go back on next week. I have to get a filter, and this is ready to go.
Yep. The son is running it downhill pretty quick. He likes supervising, but going to be wrenching real soon. His two main guys are out pretty soon. One put in notice he's leaving the state in 5 weeks...he told them a while ago. The other put in his 2 weeks last Friday.… Well, no… All is not well… Bay 4 is still empty and the company is probably gonna go broke… but shit does happen
Yep. The son is running it downhill pretty quick. He likes supervising, but going to be wrenching real soon. His two main guys are out pretty soon. One put in notice he's leaving the state in 5 weeks...he told them a while ago. The other put in his 2 weeks last Friday.
He got hit with a distance surcharge...it took me an additional hour to clean up and scan. It also took nearly twice as long to reassemble as it did to tear down.I'd tell him to call me when bay 4 is available. Until then, I'm unavailable...
Dan'l