Project StressEliminator Restomod-23 Daytona

[lenmann]

Well, I’ve been thoroughly getting my ass kicked.

After taking the time to make support pieces from regular insulation styrofoam and then transferring them to structural foam, the structural foam doesn’t have the compression that insulation foam does, so I ended up making them multiple times.

Previously I’d push down on each part to set it in its place, but it was compressing on the boat surface AND the pod surface, making it seem like it fit, but really it was just confirming to the cracks and crevices it needed to. Remember, the inside of the pod is a laminated part (B-side) with irregularities. After grinding lumps and seams out, I had a surface that was more true and would conform to a saw cut.

All I’m going to say is it’s harder to suspend a part accurately in space than you think...

Anyway, each piece is fit and supported to be centered and at height, so now I can grind the gel off of the surfaces we’ll be laminating, and I’ve also already started grinding the scarf joints on the inside.

My intent is to grind the external joints and tab the pod pieces where they lie currently with CSM, just to lock the location to each other. After curing, I’ll attach a 2x10 on edge externally right on the keel of the pod. This hopefully will keep the angular relationship of each piece, so when I remove it from the boat, flip it over and laminate the scarf joints, everything will stay reasonably in place. I fully expect some shrinkage, but am trying to minimize it.

Here’s the internal support bulkheads to keep the old pod walls from flexing and to add vertical support for the new pod. These will get filleted and laminated in. Because of the previously mentioned irregular surface, I made these about 4 times, because I would cut one either at a slightly wrong angle, or just a bit too short

View attachment 901492

Here’s a shot of the support for the rearmost piece. Because the Vee isn’t centered perfectly in the part and the angles are just slightly different, I probably made 3 of these.
Probably shouldn’t have a machinist mind for working on this stuff...

View attachment 901491

Here’s all of the pieces of the pod suspended and located where they’re supposed to be. Hopefully they stay exactly like this when I join them.

View attachment 901490

I have to say, I am pleased to finally get to this phase. My vision is becoming a reality.

Really nice work, lots of moving pieces but you got it and it looks great. I was thinking this would be a lot easier if you didn't have that pesky floor in the way, at least that way you wouldn't working blind.

Are you going to "bed" the pod in some goo where it contacts the foam and plywood bulkheads?

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Really nice work, lots of moving pieces but you got it and it looks great. I was thinking this would be a lot easier if you didn't have that pesky floor in the way, at least that way you wouldn't working blind.

You're dead nuts on with this statement. I feel that I need the structure in place to keep stiffness, or it would be gone.

Are you going to "bed" the pod in some goo where it contacts the foam and plywood bulkheads?

The intent is to put CSM on the contact areas, let it kick, then fill in the gaps, most likely with Marglass, as it's fiberglass based and easy to work with. It's kind of heavy and expensive as far as filling a cubic area, but those gaps aren't that much area. I've thought of getting a bunch of chop and making a slurry, but that's quite liquid, and we all know what gravity does to a liquid. That's why I'm leaning toward Marglass or P-14. P-14 is now $84/gallon, so I'm really not keen on using it for straight filler. It also has no strands in it like Marglass, so you can see which way I'm leaning, and why.

Once the pod is actually sealed, I'll grind the scarf for the outside joint, and we'll bag this thing on!

 

[Luv2gofast]

Have you ever used microballoons to make fillet putty? We used it on model airplanes because it's light. You can mix it with resin as thick as you need and it also sands easy. I don't think is adds any strength but fills great and is easy to work.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Have you ever used microballoons to make fillet putty? We used it on model airplanes because it's light. You can mix it with resin as thick as you need and it also sands easy. I don't think is adds any strength but fills great and is easy to work.

Yes, all of the fillets in the boat are microsphere and resin mixture the consistency of peanut butter, including the ones we just put in at the interface of the foam spray rails to each tunnel and sponson.

Pretty wild how light they are, eh? There is no strength there, but it gives you the radius needed to allow the 1808 to conform to the surface, and that’s where your strength comes in, especially with layers.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Since the boat is sitting upside down on moving dollies stacked with cribbing and a few layers of styrofoam, it’s not real easy to level the hull. This caused me to use the alternate zero on my digital level in order to see if I’m getting things lined up and symmetric side to side.

Here’s a pic of the natural reading across the keels

Here you can see the dot lit up by “Alt Zero”

First joint

Second joint

Third joint

Grinding inside the pod to laminate the bulkheads in today. After glassing them in, I’ll be grinding the four sections to be able to join them tomorrow, and laminate the internal scarf joints this weekend.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

I used a borescope to check the fit of the forward bulkhead that you can’t see by eye. I’m happy with the fit!

Here’s the camera looking at the bulkhead 2’ ahead.

Here’s the interface to the pod Vee

Here’s the interface at the intersection of the old and new pod.

I have one more piece to grind and these pieces are ready to join. Finally...

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Small victory. The four pod pieces are now joined externally as one unit.

My buddy Crash is going to help me cut pieces to make strakes/chines to attach tomorrow.

Feels good to see it sitting in place joined.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Everything cured properly and is more rigid than I expected with only one layer of CSM on the surface with an additional layer of 1808 on the vertical surfaces.

I’ve been wanting to try this for a long time; put some tape on over the old and new pod interface to see if the angle will change too quickly. By the looks of things, I think not. This look is exactly what I was after with this blend. The tips need some tweaking, but this shows the gist of it

Remember, the whole goal of this exercise is to eliminate the mid-range hop without losing top speed. So the mantra has been to gain the most lift while the pod is in the water until aerodynamic lift takes over and carries the boat.

The other thing we’re always trying to lower or eliminate is drag, especially hydrodynamic drag, which is water scrubbing on the tops or sides of the tunnels, the gearcase, or any other wetted surface, for that matter.

With this V-shaped pod, I have an opportunity to gain in both regards. If I just left the Vee as-is, the water would come up the Vee, slide off, and hit the tunnel tops and now the spray rails. This is where the opportunity lies by putting strakes with a downward angle at the top edge of the pod, turning that water downward, and in doing so, we’ll create lift. BUT...That’s not ALL! This downward flow will also keep that water from climbing up the tunnel, which means it won’t have as much opportunity for drag.

Here’s the proof of concept that I messed with until Roger and I agreed on the final angle.

The downside to this is that you can get greedy and generate so much lift in transient situations (ie: rough water) that it becomes reactive, or harsh. So the balance is not too wide, and not too steep, but wide enough and steep enough to be effective. I believe that this setup will be the balance.

The outside edges will be sanded back to match the vertical surface angle after the foam is bonded to the pod, which will be after the pod is attached, bodyworked, and arrow straight.

How I was going to truncate the ends of these strakes was still a bit foggy for me, but just taping the foam onto the pod allowed me to try a couple of things.

If you look at what we did on the left in the above picture, we just kept the inside edge running parallel with the inner spray rails. This is nice because it is a nice gradual widening of the strake, and a natural progression, while keeping it totally parallel to the direction of travel.

The version on the right is producible, but harder to fade it in without making it an afterthought, I feel.

I’ll be using the version on the left when the time comes.

After these strakes are bonded and sanded to match the vertical pod surfaces, I’ll roll the edge, and it’ll be time for the final bagging session on this project. Three layers of 1808 will run from the pod running surface, over the foam strakes, down the vertical surfaces and onto the tunnel tops.

After that, it’s sand, gel, and lots more sanding

Are we having fun yet??. Oh, and maybe we’ll go boating again this summer!

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Incredible!

 

[98special]

That's awesome.
I feel like I'm getting a free education.
Thanks!

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Picked up some 2”x8”‘s and screws to make a “spine” for the pod so I can remove and flip it to laminate it internally.

The intent is to laminate one layer at a time and let it cure before the next layer is applied, to minimize the heat from catalyzing. This is to minimize shrinkage, so as to minimize warping. Remember, this thing has to go back on exactly where it came from in order to be dimensionally accurate.

HeadlessHula and I cut the wood pieces and screwed them together to match the shape of the keel.

Then Hula mixed up Bondo as fast as I was packing it into the gaps between the stringer and the keel.

Nothing fancy or special, just an attempt to hold something in space. We’ll see how it works...

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Got the pod removed, flipped, and screwed it to sawhorses to support it.

Took my 4” grinder with a Zec wheel and feathered the edges of the joints to blend them with the CSM that I had put down on the outside of the pod.

This gives you an idea of how thin it is. This allows me to put layers of 1808 double biax on the inside and get a strong joint.

Here you can see how all of the layers are feathered back relatively even.

Time for some lamination! That’s tomorrow’s project...

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

Got the pod removed, flipped, and screwed it to sawhorses to support it.

View attachment 904923

Took my 4” grinder with a Zec wheel and feathered the edges of the joints to blend them with the CSM that I had put down on the outside of the pod.

View attachment 904924

This gives you an idea of how thin it is. This allows me to put layers of 1808 double biax on the inside and get a strong joint.

View attachment 904925

Here you can see how all of the layers are feathered back relatively even.

View attachment 904926

Time for some lamination! That’s tomorrow’s project...

It only let me "like" once.. but its X1000

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Center pod is now a one piece unit, specifically for the 23 Daytona

Tomorrow I’ll start grinding the tunnel so this pod can get bonded on this week.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

It took a lot more to remove that 2x8 support than I thought it would. The entire mating surface of the wood stayed with the keel. I had to chisel every inch of Bondo off both sides where I had just prepped with a 120 DA. It definitely came off easier where I hadn’t sanded.

Once I DA’d all of the remaining Bondo off, I was eager to weigh it. Pretty happy with 77 lbs. I was figuring 100-120.

Had to pose with my 17’ rocket

Got the pod hoisted into place and the fit is awesome.

This thing is strong and is going to finish out really well.

 

[J.P.]

Looks perfect first class.

 

[cofooter]

Great work, hydro!!!

 

[lenmann]

I was wondering how you were going to bust the bondo loose but didn't think it would be a 5 lb jack and a chisel!

Testament to the quality of the lamination work right there and the fit up looks great.

 

[DrunkenSailor]

That picture with the pod is epic. Great work man. I am blown away by this project. Everytime I open this thread I'm stoked to see the progress.

 

[Sleek-Jet]

So what's the table saw for? Widening the bream?

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

It took a lot more to remove that 2x8 support than I thought it would. The entire mating surface of the wood stayed with the keel. I had to chisel every inch of Bondo off both sides where I had just prepped with a 120 DA. It definitely came off easier where I hadn’t sanded.

View attachment 906211

Once I DA’d all of the remaining Bondo off, I was eager to weigh it. Pretty happy with 77 lbs. I was figuring 100-120.

View attachment 906212

Had to pose with my 17’ rocket

View attachment 906213

Got the pod hoisted into place and the fit is awesome.
View attachment 906214

This thing is strong and is going to finish out really well.

Is that a pod in your pocket or you just happy to see Hula?

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Thanks, guys, for all of your compliments and for following along.

This thread has a Forrest Gump vibe, “Like a box of chocolates, ya never know what yer gonna get!”

I was wondering how you were going to bust the bondo loose but didn't think it would be a 5 lb jack and a chisel!

I was quite surprised by the tensile strength of plain old Bondo. For $15/gallon, I’d say it’s pretty inexpensive glue! I hate relying on it for filler, but it has its places, I guess.

So what's the table saw for? Widening the bream?

You’re the second person to ask me that. Funny thing is, one of my boat racing friends that is giving me advice did just that; took a 30’ Spectre cat, widened it a foot and cut the sides down to be Doug Wright/MTI-esque, and we’ll probably hit the water about the same time. I always tell him he makes me feel more sane.

Is that a pod in your pocket or you just happy to see Hula?

I’m just happy it’s one piece and didn’t turn into a banana...Actually, measuring it in place tonight, everything is well within an 1/8” of where I intended to be. I don’t know how I can ask for any better than that.

That picture with the pod is epic. Great work man. I am blown away by this project. Everytime I open this thread I'm stoked to see the progress.

I’ve been waiting for the opportunity to take that picture since we started this silliness. It’s going to be hard to do when it’s laminated to the tunnel!

Thanks again, fellas!

 

[DrunkenSailor]

Thanks, guys, for all of your compliments and for following along.

This thread has a Forrest Gump vibe, “Like a box of chocolates, ya never know what yer gonna get!”



I was quite surprised by the tensile strength of plain old Bondo. For $15/gallon, I’d say it’s pretty inexpensive glue! I hate relying on it for filler, but it has its places, I guess.



You’re the second person to ask me that. Funny thing is, one of my boat racing friends that is giving me advice did just that; took a 30’ Spectre cat, widened it a foot and cut the sides down to be Doug Wright/MTI-esque, and we’ll probably hit the water about the same time. I always tell him he makes me feel more sane.




I’m just happy it’s one piece and didn’t turn into a banana...Actually, measuring it in place tonight, everything is well within an 1/8” of where I intended to be. I don’t know how I can ask for any better than that.



I’ve been waiting for the opportunity to take that picture since we started this silliness. It’s going to be hard to do when it’s laminated to the tunnel!

Thanks again, fellas!

I would love some detail on that Spectre cat. Widening an existing boat sounds scary lol. I couldn't image cutting a boat in half and glueing it back together. I'm starting to think you guys are a little too bored up in cheeseland lol.

 

[Duramax]

Master class here. Great work my friend! Love the spray rails.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

I would love some detail on that Spectre cat. Widening an existing boat sounds scary lol. I couldn't image cutting a boat in half and glueing it back together. I'm starting to think you guys are a little too bored up in cheeseland lol.

Since the Spectre isn’t my project, I asked him if he minded me posting some pics and he said no problem.

He did all of this same work plus a canopy on his SuperStock race boat. Definitely not afraid of work or cutting up a boat. I must clarify, he’s not a cheesehead, he’s in FL.

I will warn you, it really helps to have a plan and vision when you decide to widen and scallop the profile of your boat, as well as add a windshield from a Doug Wright.

This is an incredible amount of work, and he’s done it not once, but twice!! You can see why my project is child’s play compared to his.

I’m pretty sure it’s going to run as good as it looks. Not much to be able to tell it was ever a Spectre.

Pretty nice lines, eh? Don’t your shoulders and arms hurt just thinking about all of that sanding?? I can’t wait for a ride.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Roger came down tonight on the bike and looked over the pod and my pod chines/strakes. I think the teacher is proud of the student. We discussed ideas and processes going forward, and we’re both on the same page.

Before he took off, I had him help me remove the pod and put it on sawhorses outside the shop so I could trim the tail to match the transom length and angle. Also, I marked up a piece of foam to cut tomorrow so the pod also has a transom.

While the pod was out in the open and accessible, I putzed with Big Wally a bit on some of the blatant high spots. He’s still got it...that thing is just a badass leveling device. I’m sure I’ll be pumped up by the time this thing is bodyworked

Tomorrow night I’ll get after finishing that mini transom, and finish grinding for the foam bulkheads inside the original pod so they can get laminated. I really want to get this pod glued down and finished!

 

[HydroSkreamin]

HeadlessHula ground the entire pod for me initially to remove gel in specific areas we intended to laminate, and as it got further along, it actually made more sense to remove all of it. We left some datums to work with to compare the original fit.

Using foam again, I made a transom for the tail of the pod that would also be supportive.

While Hula ground on the pod, I ground the boat to prep it for bonding and lamination.

So, all of the internal bulkheads are glued, filleted and laminated. Everything is ground, cleaned, and ready for bonding.

I’ve got a work trip scheduled this week, and moving a daughter back to college when I get back, so it’ll be a bit before I have any more to report.

Believe me, as soon as I can get this on, I’m busting ass until it’s finished, flipped, re-rigged and back on the water. Just a wee bit of sanding before all that happens

 

[wettek]

Gidday guys.
I have only just joined RDP, but have been watching this thread religiously. Hydro, your work is unbelievable, fantastic job and your willingness to experiment is great to see.
Being unfamiliar with this type of hull (all my boating has been v and pad hulls), how is the addition of the rails on either sponson actually increasing the lift? Is it just a case of reducing the volume in the tunnel, increasing the lift? I would have thought this would have increased the velocity of the air flow under the hull, which would actually suck it down more. I may be looking at it the wrong way, but you have still done one hell of a job, and I can't wait to see the results of the test run.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Gidday guys.
I have only just joined RDP, but have been watching this thread religiously. Hydro, your work is unbelievable, fantastic job and your willingness to experiment is great to see.
Being unfamiliar with this type of hull (all my boating has been v and pad hulls), how is the addition of the rails on either sponson actually increasing the lift? Is it just a case of reducing the volume in the tunnel, increasing the lift? I would have thought this would have increased the velocity of the air flow under the hull, which would actually suck it down more. I may be looking at it the wrong way, but you have still done one hell of a job, and I can't wait to see the results of the test run.

Thank you for the kind words, and welcome to RDP!

To address your question regarding how spray rails work, I’ll give you my simple understanding of what I think I know about them.

The width counts as running surface when under or on top of the water, but when you look at how the water comes up the vertical inner sponson and hits the rail sticking out, it still adds lift by changing the direction of the water flow. This feature helps cats to stay flat in turns instead of leaning out.

If you look at the blown up picture below (original photo credit: Tommy Gun Images), check out what the water is doing where the red arrow is pointing: reflecting cleanly into the tunnel, not walking up and creating drag on the tunnel. Even at 120+ it’s still adding some lift all the way at the rear.

Hopefully my explanation makes sense.

Strakes work in the same fashion, adding lift just from their width, and from changing the trajectory of the water running up the deadrise, and adding lift.

I know the Supercat and SuperStock Race boat guys say that the spray rails really help acceleration. I’m looking forward to finding out for myself real soon...

 

[wettek]

Thanks for the great explanation and photo, it all makes sense.
I'm still amazed at how you are more than happy to just hack in and give it
a try, who knows, you might be making molds from your completed boat before long.
Your next project will be more prop trials.

Just hurry up and finish it so we can all see how it goes!

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Thanks for the great explanation and photo, it all makes sense.
I'm still amazed at how you are more than happy to just hack in and give it
a try, who knows, you might be making molds from your completed boat before long.
Your next project will be more prop trials.

Just hurry up and finish it so we can all see how it goes!

I’ve been paying attention to every single center pod outboard boat I can read about since 2014. Between that and my connections I’m able to bench race with some really smart people in the industry and discuss ideas. None of this is concrete, but decisions are made off informed opinion, if you will.

It’s a bit risky doing what I’m doing, but I feel confident in my path, and am not afraid to make changes if I don’t like the results. I’ve been in product development all of my adult life, and this is all just part of the process.

Glad you liked the explanation. Visuals are always good for getting a point across, I feel.

 

[Sleek-Jet]

At worst, you can just flip the boat back over and grind all that shit back off next summer, in preparing for the October boating season.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

At worst, you can just flip the boat back over and grind all that shit back off next summer, in preparing for the October boating season.

Oh, you’re a funny guy!

It is just fiberglass reinforced plastic, after all.

Probably not gonna sign up for any more boat mods after this round. I’d actually really like to use it!

 

[98special]

I can't wait to see the glass layup and final gel coat prep.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Well, after a week of travel, returning home and moving the middle daughter to college 4 hours away and getting her apartment squared away, I returned home Sunday evening and rounded up Crash and Hula to put the pod on.

After looking at various options for adhering the pod to the boat, I settled on an epoxy mix used by some boat builders and racers. I chose it for its working time.

Basically, we marked and drilled the rear vertical flanges of the pod so I could inject the epoxy in with the mixing nozzle of the bespoke gun. Internally, all of the foam bulkheads got a thick bead as well. At the front, I just put it on the edges of the vertical walls and stuck it to the top of the tunnel. This adhesion is just to hold the pod in place while I fill the low spots and blueprint the rest.

We basically threw whatever we had handy for weight at the points of the pod, and salt bags on the open areas.

Stopped in the next morning and removed the weight. It isn’t going ANYWHERE.

Time to get the bluing and Big Wally out...

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Big Wally has been giving me a workout. All of the big humps are out, and edges are crisped up where they can be.

Tomorrow night I’ll start filling low spots so I can get a bunch of block sanding done this weekend.

At least the dust from sanding doesn’t get in your eyes and ears like it does when you’re grinding.

Once the low spots are filled and blocked out it’ll start coming in fast. When I’m satisfied with curve shapes and flatness, I’ll attach the foam reflex/chines that Crash and I cut a few weeks ago.

 

[lenmann]

View attachment 912991

View attachment 912993

View attachment 912994

View attachment 912995

Big Wally has been giving me a workout. All of the big humps are out, and edges are crisped up where they can be.

Tomorrow night I’ll start filling low spots so I can get a bunch of block sanding done this weekend.

At least the dust from sanding doesn’t get in your eyes and ears like it does when you’re grinding.

Once the low spots are filled and blocked out it’ll start coming in fast. When I’m satisfied with curve shapes and flatness, I’ll attach the foam reflex/chines that Crash and I cut a few weeks ago.

Its looking good man. I can feel the shoulder burn from all the way out west!

So, once its all faired in nice are you planning to bag a couple of layers of 1808 over the pod to the tunnel?

What is the plan for the bottom (or is it the top?) of the tunnels where the new glass from the spray rails and pod terminates?

I cant wait to see how this all works in the water. Again, kudos to you taking big swings at this deal.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

So, once its all faired in nice are you planning to bag a couple of layers of 1808 over the pod to the tunnel?

Yes, I’m in the bluing, sanding, and filling process currently. It’s starting to really sharpen up. The one thing I learned from blueprinting the sponson bottoms was that dealing with gelcoat and fiberglass on the same surface is that the gelcoat kind of screws you up, because it varies so much in thickness. That’s why I elected to remove all of it right up front on the entire pod. I’m very glad I did that.

Now I know exactly what I’m dealing with, and hopefully eliminate extra steps.

After the larger low spots are filled with CSM and leveled, I’ll fair the whole thing with P-14 and do the bagging with three incrementally larger layers of 1808. The edges aren’t very proud with the bagging process, so I’ll flatten them a bit with Medium Wally and fair them as well.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

 

[monkeyswrench]

Pretty sure I lack the knowledge to attempt anything like this...
Very sure I lack the guts.

I'm learning a lot from reading this. Glad you have both the knowledge and the guts

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Pretty sure I lack the knowledge to attempt anything like this...
Very sure I lack the guts.

I'm learning a lot from reading this. Glad you have both the knowledge and the guts

By what I’ve seen in your Mercenary Mechanic thread, I’m quite positive that you have what it takes to do this stuff. I know you got the guts, and knowledge comes from asking questions, and I’ve seen you do that since day one here as well.

If you haven’t done so yet, check out @lenmann ‘s thread in the Schiada forum. He has taken a former ski race boat and transformed it into a badass restored hotrod, using knowledge gained on this forum, asking key players the right questions, and diving in and getting dirty, but sticking to his plan and executing it.

1979 Schiada RC, The Boss

After a solid couple of years searching, finding a few, missing deals on a couple, I finally acquired a Schiada River Cruiser. As noted in a thread sparked by a CL ad earlier this summer the boat is a little rough and hasn?t had a lot of love for some time...

www.riverdavesplace.com

Four years ago I was scared sh!tless of this thing, but obviously today it’s probably scared of me!

The tough part is the down time and incredible amount of work it takes to do it right. I’m extremely grateful for all of the help I’ve been given along the way; I certainly couldn’t have done it by myself. Because it’s a dirty, thankless job, I do try to do as much as possible by myself and reserve my helpers’ time only when absolutely necessary...like bagging the pod on for final lamination.

 

[monkeyswrench]

By what I’ve seen in your Mercenary Mechanic thread, I’m quite positive that you have what it takes to do this stuff. I know you got the guts, and knowledge comes from asking questions, and I’ve seen you do that since day one here as well.

If you haven’t done so yet, check out @lenmann ‘s thread in the Schiada forum. He has taken a former ski race boat and transformed it into a badass restored hotrod, using knowledge gained on this forum, asking key players the right questions, and diving in and getting dirty, but sticking to his plan and executing it.

1979 Schiada RC, The Boss

After a solid couple of years searching, finding a few, missing deals on a couple, I finally acquired a Schiada River Cruiser. As noted in a thread sparked by a CL ad earlier this summer the boat is a little rough and hasn?t had a lot of love for some time...

www.riverdavesplace.com

Four years ago I was scared sh!tless of this thing, but obviously today it’s probably scared of me!

The tough part is the down time and incredible amount of work it takes to do it right. I’m extremely grateful for all of the help I’ve been given along the way; I certainly couldn’t have done it by myself. Because it’s a dirty, thankless job, I do try to do as much as possible by myself and reserve my helpers’ time only when absolutely necessary...like bagging the pod on for final lamination.

I've always been the type for "trial by fire". Never really eased into things. Going with the monkey thing, "Monkey see, Monkey do." I always figured if someone else could do it, so can I. The way I learned to work with fiberglass was much the same. A friend worked at a highend stereo shop. They built some custom enclosures, and I I tried my hand the next week.

Even the cutting up of a boat, and putting it back together, probably not too scary to me. What I thing makes it most nerve racking, these are niether inexpensive, nor slow.

Weight is an obvious factor. Keeping things symetrical is imperative also...
I think my first whizzbang fiberglass and go fast project will start smaller. Probably pwc hull work, and propulsion mods like "blueprinting" hull, and motor mount changes. I have a Waverunner with a dead motor, and no one cares if it sinks...it's also a smaller scale. Baby steps...

 

[HydroSkreamin]

I think my first whizzbang fiberglass and go fast project will start smaller. Probably pwc hull work, and propulsion mods like "blueprinting" hull, and motor mount changes. I have a Waverunner with a dead motor, and no one cares if it sinks...it's also a smaller scale. Baby steps...

You’re on the right track here. The WaveRunner is a perfect platform to mess with. If it’s one that porpoises, sharpen the back edge of the running surface. Blueprint the bottom to get the feel of tools and techniques. Run your changes and feel what they do.

See what they did for the race version of that hull, etc. Learn!

Those are SMC (sheet molded compound), so you’ll have to learn the quirks of that and what materials bond with it as well.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

I forgot to get any pics of the bulkheads installed inside the pod, so here’s a shot as I’m drilling the holes to inject the epoxy into from the other side.

Here’s where I’m at on the pod at this moment. Every square inch has been ground and sanded. The blue areas are low and will get filled.

I’m happy with how it’s shaping up. I’m pretty sure by Sunday night it’s going to look like it’s always been there.

 

[Headless hula]

this thread needed an update.

 

[Headless hula]

He’s working on the transition from the existing vee of the pod, to the vee of the one we grafted on. It’s got to be centered perfectly, and symmetrical. There’s no room for “close enough”.

 

[Headless hula]

I just spent an hour and a half by myself with big Wally. It’ll make a man outta ya. I can’t believe he trusted me to not mess it up.

 

[DrunkenSailor]

View attachment 917639
I just spent an hour and a half by myself with big Wally. It’ll make a man outta ya. I can’t believe he trusted me to not mess it up.

Nice work and nice to see ya posting!

 

[Headless hula]

Nice work and nice to see ya posting!

I'm not posting for anyone's benefit other than whoever can learn something from this thread.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Glad the fires burning and the stupidity of the big city hasn't spread out towards you guys.

On the center pod, it will act like a rail at lower speeds, correct? So, the center pod needs to be centered, and parallel it's entire length...How do you check the profile or cross section to keep it symmetrical? I've done profile templates, but nothing that length.