New GMC 6.2 burning oil?

[RandyH]

Run it like you stole it and have one on order at all times. They still take a year to get fully optioned. Ultimate and super cruise. No oil loss in my 6.2s and I drive them like my Vette

 

[YoPengo]

Every time I think I want a new truck... This shit comes up. I guess I'll hang on to my 09 6.2 Denali with 90K miles.

 

[framer1]

Down here at the oil change shop and dude walks up to me and says “Just want to let ya know these new gmc’s burn oil like a sob” I’m sitting here thinking huh?

He shows me the dipstick and there’s literally no oil on it?

Is this a thing? He says a lot of them are like that..

Now I’m seriously concerned?

Stacy will run this thing right into the ground if left unattended.. 2023 6.2 motor
View attachment 1254765

It just amazes me that GM can't make a decent car anymore. I have a 2019 Chevrolet Trail Boss and I worry all the time about the lifter going out or the transmission going out. It has 19,000 miles on it. You would think I would not have to think about that for at least a 100,000 miles. I would get rid of it if there was something any better out there. Starting to believe they are all junk.

 

[TimeBandit]

https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/na-xx-mobil-1-truck-and-suv-

There is nothing in this sheet pertaining to oil consumption or max oil temp, which was your statement.

0W-20 Mobil1: Mobil 1 motor oils offer a full range of temperature protection: For cold starts, the oil keeps flowing as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit, and it can withstand high temperatures of up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral-based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher (some as much as 700 degrees F).

 

[lbhsbz]

Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral-based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher (some as much as 700 degrees F).

That's general data...so I ignored it...I was looking at the specifics on the chart down below.

Now...we need to define "synthetic" Hydrocracked group 3 based stocks are called synthetic, so are group 4 and 5 base stocks. Group 3 are not synthetic, but sold as such. This is why we need spec sheets on the specific product in question.

 

[lbhsbz]

It just amazes me that GM can't make a decent car anymore. I have a 2019 Chevrolet Trail Boss and I worry all the time about the lifter going out or the transmission going out. It has 19,000 miles on it. You would think I would not have to think about that for at least a 100,000 miles. I would get rid of it if there was something any better out there. Starting to believe they are all junk.

Why are you amazed? They haven't made a decent car in years.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral-based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher (some as much as 700 degrees F).

The definition of a synthetic oil is not that much of it needs to be synthetic, unfortunately.

Now you add in wear and the problem becomes when the thin oil breaks down and starts loosing viscosity, you get on the ragged edge of damage. Why bother? Is 120 in the summer and 50 in the winter.

Just run something slightly thicker that will hold up better and suffer through the .02 MPG loss.

 

[TimeBandit]

That's general data...so I ignored it...I was looking at the specifics on the chart down below.

Now...we need to define "synthetic" Hydrocracked group 3 based stocks are called synthetic, so are group 4 and 5 base stocks. Group 3 are not synthetic, but sold as such. This is why we need spec sheets on the specific product in question.

We don't know what they put in Dave's 6.2, I know you can spend more but the temps for good 'ol Mobil1 are pretty impressive:

Mobil1 0W-20 Dexos2: Mobil 1 motor oils offer a full range of temperature protection: For cold starts, the oil keeps flowing as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit, and it can withstand high temperatures of up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

[hallett21]

I’m with @RiverDave i ain’t running a 1970s truck lol. 2016 Cummins has been fine and I go 10k between changes. 190k miles.

 

[lbhsbz]

We don't know what they put in Dave's 6.2

Mobil1 0W-20 Dexos2: Mobil 1 motor oils offer a full range of temperature protection: For cold starts, the oil keeps flowing as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit, and it can withstand high temperatures of up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

Right. I would assume they at least used some sort of dexos2 product, which if it meets the minimum dexos2 requirements....doesn't have a "max operating temp" anywhere near 212°F. The only reason I jumped in here was to point out that illogical piece of bullshit from LOF.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Right. I would assume they at least used some sort of dexos2 product, which if it meets the minimum dexos2 requirements....doesn't have a "max operating temp" anywhere near 212°F. The only reason I jumped in here was to point out that illogical piece of bullshit from LOF.

As opposed to clinging to the illogical bullshit that 0w20 holds up better and stands up to more heat and friction than a 5w30.

Still waiting for that 5w30 data sheet so you can vindicate that piece of fiction.

Here is that 212 degree rating right on the Eneos website. And their 0w20 is Dexos approved

0W Oil in Warm Climates | Performance Motor Oil & Transmission Fluid | ENEOS

It’s a long-standing rumor that 0W oil, including 0W-20 synthetic oil, has no purpose for vehicles that operate in a warm climate.

garage.eneos.us

 

[TimeBandit]

Right. I would assume they at least used some sort of dexos2 product, which if it meets the minimum dexos2 requirements....doesn't have a "max operating temp" anywhere near 212°F. The only reason I jumped in here was to point out that illogical piece of bullshit from LOF.

A look at the millions of posts on "bobistheoilguy.com" will make your head explode. But if Mobil1 can "withstand" 500 degrees, 260+ degrees should be fine.

My background is working in shops that use the cheapest oil possible, and yet we had zero oil related failures... as long as the customer followed a good maintenance schedule. Back in the 80's that was 3,750 miles. Even crap Pennzoil straight 30W worked.

I remember back in the 80's the coking that would happen on turbo cars using conventional oil, the turbo would just cook the oil and block the line.

Those problems are gone for the most part with the use of Synthetic oils. Operating temps are lower for water cooled turbos, but the higher temp ability of syn oil helps.

 

[rivermobster]

Why are you amazed? They haven't made a decent car in years.

Finally. Now we are getting somewhere!

 

[rivermobster]

I’m with @RiverDave i ain’t running a 1970s truck lol. 2016 Cummins has been fine and I go 10k between changes. 190k miles.

I sure hope you are kidding!

 

[lbhsbz]

As opposed to clinging to the illogical bullshit that 0w20 holds up better and stands up to more heat and friction than a 5w30.

Still waiting for that 5w30 data sheet so you can vindicate that piece of fiction.

Here is that 212 degree rating right on the Eneos website

0W Oil in Warm Climates | Performance Motor Oil & Transmission Fluid | ENEOS

It’s a long-standing rumor that 0W oil, including 0W-20 synthetic oil, has no purpose for vehicles that operate in a warm climate.

garage.eneos.us

If that were true, then Eneos oil is not suitable for any engine.

....and that's not a data sheet. About the author: Tim Rose was a Sales Rep and GM at Altrom Group for 30 years, an avid outdoorsman who just finished a hiking vacation around Spain, and most recently in his career is a respected leader with the ENEOS sales team.

A saleman for Napa for 30 years and now a salesman for ENEOS. If I've learned one thing about salesmen in the automotive parts industry its that you can count on them to be consistently and completely full of shit with respect to technical knowledge.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

If that were true, then Eneos oil is not suitable for any engine.

Take it up with them. They are the ones saying it. Their product is Dexos approved.

0w20 is recommended for the fuel mileage in this application and nothing else. You could run a slightly thicker oil in that engine with 0 consequence. Most manufacturers like Toyota recommend just that for extreme temps. For that Suburban, GM does not seem to, but it’s not like they are longevity geniuses lately.

With the AFM lifter failures associated with GM products.. I’d run something a little thicker in a hot southwest climate like AZ, and change the oil more often.

There is literally no downside.

 

[J&k beer can]

None of you imates own a 8.1???
now those use oil.. and its not even a daily driver. goes from store to launch ramp in havasu..

its common .. have had quite a few GM 6.2 over the last 10yrs..

 

[Waterjunky]

Sorry all but I'm with Dave on this. This is crap.... A friend's brand new at the time late teen subaru was a quart per 1000 miles. Still considered within spec.

All my Fords for the last 15 years have not burnt a drop. The last one that drank any oil at all was my 97 w/ a 460 and it would drink about a half quart between changes when I was towing a large 5er. Thats it. None of the others including the last 4 3.5TT ( 1 sold, 1, totaled, and 2 in possession) drink any realistic amounts. I do my oil changes still so I can watch for this.



But I know, GM is a vastly superior machine.....

 

[lbhsbz]

Take it up with them. They are the ones saying it.

you're the one believing it. article was written by a salesman lol.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

you're the one believing it. article was written by a salesman lol.

Yea.. to sell people oil that works for their climate.

 

[Cobalt232]

My sons 6.2 Trail Boss uses 1 quart every 5k. My 2022 6.2 ZR2, used none at its first oil change at 7000mi. My 2016 3.0 Supercharged Audi uses a quart every 4000 miles. Seems like engines just use more now.

 

[hallett21]

I sure hope you are kidding!

Lol no. And it’s been fine? Full synthetic on every change if it matters?

And my truck works hard every day. Pulls 10-15k weekly.

 

[Havasu blue label]

Shit my 8.1 sucks oil like it sucks gas

 

[rivermobster]

Lol no. And it’s been fine? Full synthetic on every change if it matters?

And my truck works hard every day. Pulls 10-15k weekly.

It's not leaking like a sieve?

Oil is oil. Imagine it in your differential. Do you change that every 3k mi? No, because it doesn't become contaminated with fuel and combustion by product!

And this is why we change engine oil regularly, because it does.

Those by products build up and usually reek hell on rubber seals. Plus they break down the oil.

Doesn't matter what oil you use, it all gets contaminated.

 

[hallett21]

It's not leaking like a sieve?

Oil is oil. Imagine it in your differential. Do you change that every 3k mi? No, because it doesn't become contaminated with fuel and combustion by product!

And this is why we change engine oil regularly, because it does.

Those by products build up and usually reek hell on rubber seals. Plus they break down the oil.

Doesn't matter what oil you use, it all gets contaminated.

Usually down a quart maybe 2. But that’s out of 12.

 

[rivermobster]

Usually down a quart maybe 2. But that’s out of 12.

And, it doesn't leak at all?

 

[Xring01]

I dont have time to get into all the details


But newer Chevys have known issues with lifters,

Research that, sometimes the leading indicator of a bad lifter is oil consumption.

Get the dealer involved and keep those records for future warranty claim/ issues

This isnt always the issue, but something you need to be aware of.

My 2021 Chevy 5.3, did not burn oil, and I, meaning I personally changed the oil every 5000 miles

 

[hallett21]

And, it doesn't leak at all?

To be fair I do the drive thru oil change service while I sit in the truck. Crucify me now lol.

$200ish OTD and since the last change the lowest I’ve been was 1-2 quarts.

So I guess the question is if I came in at 5k miles and saw no oil loss wouldn’t I still be “over paying”?

Meaning a motor should be fine with 10 quarts vs 12 right?

 

[rivermobster]

To be fair I do the drive thru oil change service while I sit in the truck. Crucify me now lol.

$200ish OTD and since the last change the lowest I’ve been was 1-2 quarts.

So I guess the question is if I came in at 5k miles and saw no oil loss wouldn’t I still be “over paying”?

Meaning a motor should be fine with 10 quarts vs 12 right?

Read post 74 again.

And 76!

 

[Big B Hova]

Stacey is probably practicing her 0-60 and trap speed times when yore not looking

 

[hallett21]

Read post 74 again.

And 76!

Lol Roger.

But I’m not sure it’s leaking any worse? Meaning if at 5k miles it leaks 1/2-1 quarts vs 10k miles and leaking 1-2 quarts isn’t it the same?

I fully admit I understand electrical, structural framing etc and engines are way at the bottom. Other than we need spark, fuel and air.

 

[rivermobster]

Lol Roger.

But I’m not sure it’s leaking any worse? Meaning if at 5k miles it leaks 1/2-1 quarts vs 10k miles and leaking 1-2 quarts isn’t it the same?

I fully admit I understand electrical, structural framing etc and engines are way at the bottom. Other than we need spark, fuel and air.

I think we are on different pages...

Leaks: hitting your garage floor

Usage: you check with the dipstick

 

[hallett21]

I think we are on different pages...

Leaks: hitting your garage floor

Usage: you check with the dipstick

Oh then no it doesn’t leak lol. It uses oil though.

I’ve always checked my trucks to make sure it never leaks oil on a clients driveway.

 

[Big B Hova]

My wife's 2018 yukon 6.2 uses a quart of oil per oilchange every 5-6k miles

 

[rivrrts429]

I feel a little better about my 2019 5.3. This truck has been the biggest POS but icing on the cake would’ve been it consuming oil. Fortunately it doesn’t burn any oil, absolutely none. The rest of the truck is absolute junk.

 

[rivermobster]

I feel a little better about my 2019 5.3. This truck has been the biggest POS but icing on the cake would’ve been it consuming oil. Fortunately it doesn’t burn any oil, absolutely none. The rest of the truck is absolute junk.

First Gale Banks and now this???

 

[Your ad here]

FWIW oil is a cleaner and a lubricant. It cleans all the crap from the combustion chamber. That's why diesel oil is black and nasty because the fuel is dirty. Propane and natural gas engines will always have clean oil because those are cleaner fuels. I never understood long interval oil changes. Dirty oil is like liquid sandpaper in the engine.

 

[rivrrts429]

First Gale Banks and now this???

Damn you Joe

This truck has been the biggest pain in the ass. I miss my Ford dually. That fucker would sit for months and I could drive it 5k miles with no issues. This 1500 I have now I’m nervous to drive it to the river and it’s only got 70k on the clock. Would’ve had 100k if it wasn’t at the dealer so damn much.

 

[Roosky01]

I would like to take this opportunity to share that my 2015 Ford F-One Fiddy Five O has 200k on it and doesn’t do any of this oil burning stuff you all are talking about?

Weird.

 

[DRYHEAT]

Dave just needs to buy an electric suburban or whatever.

 

[ka0tyk]

Shit my 8.1 sucks oil like it sucks gas

the reason the 8.1's eat oil is because of the horrible pcv system design in the upper intake manifold. most people i know in the 8.1 world pull their intakes and weld the pcv shut or tap it and plug it. then put a regular pcv catch can system off of each valve cover and the intake manifold vacuum ports on the rear of the intake.

 

[PlanB]

I wonder if the DFM is causing the oil loss? The wife's burb was built during the chip shortage and does not have the auto stop / start feature and I think it also does not have DFM. Maybe that's why we are not seeing oil loss. Researching on line reveals people are not seeing oil loss after disabling the DFM.

 

[mjc]

I wonder if the DFM is causing the oil loss? The wife's burb was built during the chip shortage and does not have the auto stop / start feature and I think it also does not have DFM. Maybe that's why we are not seeing oil loss. Researching on line reveals people are not seeing oil loss after disabling the DFM.

My son put one of the OBDII dfm disable device on his truck and say it has never run better.

 

[rivermobster]

Damn you Joe

This truck has been the biggest pain in the ass. I miss my Ford dually. That fucker would sit for months and I could drive it 5k miles with no issues. This 1500 I have now I’m nervous to drive it to the river and it’s only got 70k on the clock. Would’ve had 100k if it wasn’t at the dealer so damn much.

Friends don't let friends drive chebbys.

That is all!

 

[Bear Down]

Is anyone else wondering who gets an oil change while on a week vacation? Lol

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

Can we start a giveaway if we guess the right shop you used to change your oil?

 

[Desert Whaler]

…. “It was just 1 Quart”….

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

@RiverDave Seems like this thread went for pages regarding oil in car ... I'll just leave this here,

The 2004 BMW 545 my buddy gifted me when left to Maui sits in a garage and all it does is leak oil ha.... I bought a pan to catch it cause I drive maybe once a week. It was telling me low on oil yesterday so I grabbed 3 qts and started poring it in and after all three it never showed on stick .... I grabbed the pan off floor and pored that oil back in ....

 

[riverroyal]

Shoulda bought a expedition.

 

[rrrr]

I'll wait for you to show the class a manufacturer product data sheet that says any engine oil is good for a maximum of 212°F internal engine temps. I can't say I've ever seen oil temps that low in anything I've ever checked it in after driving for more than an hour or so. Also seeing as how many modern engines run the coolant far north of 212°F, and some don't have an oil cooler, it's foolish to assume that oil will remain below that temperature in most situations.

The domestics and asians have always specified a low HTHS oil, while the euros typically specify a high HTHS oil. Different oiling requirements. FYI. A 5W30 product suitable for a BMW is not suitable for a GM/Toyota and vise versa. The euro oil is a "thick" 5W30 while the more common type that GM/Toyota and others specify is a "thin" 5W30.

The SAE xW-XX spec is helpful in narrowing down where on the shelf to look for what you want, but the ILSAC specs or manufacturer specific specs (dexos1, ILSAC GF5, 6A, etc...) are the only ones that really matter. An oil with a higher xW-XX number might offer better protection...but if it's not specified, then it's probably not need. If it meets the same manufacturer specific specs as the "lighter" or "thinner" oil, it shouldn't really perform much different.

Running oil viscosity that differs from the manufacturer's recommendation is a really bad idea. The average SGOTI has no idea of the engineered clearances of engines that use 0W20 oil or the characteristics of that oil that have been certified by SAE/API as suitable for the intended use.

If I had a $120,000 Suburban I sure as hell wouldn't choose internet advice over GM engineers.