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New GMC 6.2 burning oil?

RiverDave

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Down here at the oil change shop and dude walks up to me and says “Just want to let ya know these new gmc’s burn oil like a sob” I’m sitting here thinking huh?

He shows me the dipstick and there’s literally no oil on it?

Is this a thing? He says a lot of them are like that..

Now I’m seriously concerned?

Stacy will run this thing right into the ground if left unattended.. 2023 6.2 motor
IMG_5175.jpeg
 

LargeOrangeFont

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That only happens when you drive at 90 “all day”.

Don’t run the 0w20 recommend. Run 5w20 or 5w30.

Change the oil at 5000 miles not when it tells you to change it, and with slightly higher oil viscosity it likely won’t burn much at all if any. This thin oil starts breaking down and the engine eats it.

A catch can isn’t needed on a daily driven NA LS/LT powered vehicle that isn’t being floored all the time.
 
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LargeOrangeFont

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All the newer ones seem to be a qt or 2 low by the oil change. Motors will always use a little oil, no ring is perfect. Now that the intervals are doubled, it's definitely a noticeable amount if it's not checked.

And they now call for 0w20 oil. Plus it’s over 100 degrees all summer, putting around Havasu starting and stopping.
 

HB2Havasu

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That only happens when you drive at 90 “all day”.

Don’t run the 0w20 recommend. Run 5w20 or 5w30.

Change the oil at 5000 miles not when it tells you to change it, and with slightly higher oil viscosity it likely won’t burn much at all if any.

A catch can isn’t needed on a daily driven NA LS/LT powered vehicle that isn’t being floored all the time.
Right! I still change my oil every 3,000 miles regardless of what the Oil Life Indicator shows. You can never have too clean of an oil reservoir!

The 6.2L must be a Hybrid. Burns Gas + Oil, lmao. :p
 

HubbaHubbaLife

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Is it escaping via a leak or simply out exhaust?
Can't imagine that fresh truck leaks
 

EmpirE231

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I've heard the 3.0 duramax's come with an extra quart of oil from the factory for break in.

haven't checked mine, but I prob should. Still under 3k miles.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Right! I still change my oil every 3,000 miles regardless of what the Oil Life Indicator shows. You can never have to clean of an oil reservoir!

The 6.2L must be a Hybrid. Burns Gas + Oil, lmao. :p
😂

I do 5k personally. The oil degrades faster once it starts degrading, and usually won’t burn anything noticeable for the first few thousand miles. Then the oil condition hits a knee point and a lot starts getting consumed.
 
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JFMFG

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I’ve had 3 6.2s 2015-2021 never had a issue with any of them
 

Bpracing1127

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Oil temps are high in summer havasu heat. It is what it is there. LOF is on the money 5k oil changes not when it’s says on the dash.
 

Dcb.blake

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Yea all of ours eat a couple quarts per oil change which we do 5k because of the environment. They have all done it since new. Years ranging from 14-21s. 5.3s and the 6.2s. Sadly it seems to be a normal thing for them
 

fishing fool

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Do you know if it was full from the last time the oil was changed????

It may have been low the whole time if you never checked it.

It seems EVERYONE always comes up with "what is wrong" before looking into it that is may have been that way from the start.
 

Runs2rch

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That only happens when you drive at 90 “all day”.

Don’t run the 0w20 recommend. Run 5w20 or 5w30.

Change the oil at 5000 miles not when it tells you to change it, and with slightly higher oil viscosity it likely won’t burn much at all if any. This thin oil starts breaking down and the engine eats it.

A catch can isn’t needed on a daily driven NA LS/LT powered vehicle that isn’t being floored all the time.
I run 0/20 Mobil One EP and change it every 5k. No oil consumption between changes.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Do you know if it was full from the last time the oil was changed????

It may have been low the whole time if you never checked it.

It seems EVERYONE always comes up with "what is wrong" before looking into it that is may have been that way from the start.

There is probably nothing wrong. The oil new cars call for has the viscosity of water. :)
 

RiverDave

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That only happens when you drive at 90 “all day”.

Don’t run the 0w20 recommend. Run 5w20 or 5w30.

Change the oil at 5000 miles not when it tells you to change it, and with slightly higher oil viscosity it likely won’t burn much at all if any. This thin oil starts breaking down and the engine eats it.

A catch can isn’t needed on a daily driven NA LS/LT powered vehicle that isn’t being floored all the time.

I think this is where we are heading to in the future
 

lbhsbz

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It has nothing to do with 0W-20. My Tacoma (112K miles) doesn't burn a drop in 10K miles.

The thin oils (are more than just thinner). Low tension rings along with different cylinder wall finishes have different lube requirements to prevent microwelding...low speed pre-ignition is also an issue now moreso than it was before, as well a handful of other things that never affected engines 40 years ago....while thinner, these new oils are far superior to the stuff that passed for oil 20, 30 or 40 years ago...hell, even 10.

Start monitoring the oil consumption every 1000 miles throughout the next oil change interval. See how long it takes to get to the "low" mark on the dipstick. GM has fairly loose oil consumption guidelines, but you might be passed that and get something fixed under warranty. Deviating from the required oil spec will give GM an excuse to not honor your warranty.

My 2002 6.0L GM has burned one quart exactly between oil changes since the day it was new. The "check oil" light comes on at 1 qt low. And 2 days later the "change oil" light comes on. I follow the light for oil changes because it seems to be accurate...depending on driving conditions, I've had tell me change the oil at 2000 miles or 6000 miles. Sampled it in the beginning and samples came back good under both intervals....so I trust it.
 

Runs2rch

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Do you know if it was full from the last time the oil was changed????

It may have been low the whole time if you never checked it.

It seems EVERYONE always comes up with "what is wrong" before looking into it that is may have been that way from the start.
Exactly. Holds 8, lube shop puts in 6. Found a problem!
 

LargeOrangeFont

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It has nothing to do with 0W-20. My Tacoma (112K miles) doesn't burn a drop in 10K miles.

The thin oils (are more than just thinner). Low tension rings along with different cylinder wall finishes have different lube requirements to prevent microwelding...low speed pre-ignition is also an issue now moreso than it was before, as well a handful of other things that never affected engines 40 years ago....while thinner, these new oils are far superior to the stuff that passed for oil 20, 30 or 40 years ago...hell, even 10.

Start monitoring the oil consumption every 1000 miles throughout the next oil change interval. See how long it takes to get to the "low" mark on the dipstick. GM has fairly loose oil consumption guidelines, but you might be passed that and get something fixed under warranty. Deviating from the required oil spec will give GM an excuse to not honor your warranty.

My 2002 6.0L GM has burned one quart exactly between oil changes since the day it was new. The "check oil" light comes on at 1 qt low. And 2 days later the "change oil" light comes on. I follow the light for oil changes because it seems to be accurate...depending on driving conditions, I've had tell me change the oil at 2000 miles or 6000 miles. Sampled it in the beginning and samples came back good under both intervals....so I trust it.

0w-20 is only rated to 104 ambient and 212F engine temps.

You are frying it in a Havasu summer. Not my car, but I see no reason to sit on the manufacturer’s max temp rating when I can get a product better suited for the environment in which I run the car.
 

lbhsbz

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0w-20 is only rated to 104 ambient and 212F engine temps.

You are frying it in a Havasu summer. Not my car, but I see no reason to sit on the manufacturer’s max temp rating when I can get a product better suited for the environment in which I run the car.
I'm dying to see the documentation you have on this. What 0W-20?
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I'm dying to see the documentation you have on this. What 0W-20?

Go find the product pages of any 2 oils of the same brand and spec and show the class where the thinner 0w20 holds up better to shear loads and will withstand higher temps than a 5w30.

The manual of my Toyota says you may want to use oil of higher viscosity in extreme loads or if you drive high speeds. Maybe 117 in Havasu qualifies?

Plus Dave just got done driving his Yukon 90 all day. Perhaps that qualifies too?

1F6E1675-F334-4530-ABF9-9C841920C7ED.jpeg
 

lbhsbz

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Go find the product pages of any 2 oils of the same brand and spec and show the class where the thinner 0w20 holds up better to shear loads and will withstand higher temps than a 5w30.

The manual of my Toyota says you may want to use oil of higher viscosity in extreme temperatures of if you drive high speeds. Maybe 117 in Havasu qualifies?

Plus Dave just got done driving his Yukon 90 all day. Perhaps that qualifies too?

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I'll wait for you to show the class a manufacturer product data sheet that says any engine oil is good for a maximum of 212°F internal engine temps. I can't say I've ever seen oil temps that low in anything I've ever checked it in after driving for more than an hour or so. Also seeing as how many modern engines run the coolant far north of 212°F, and some don't have an oil cooler, it's foolish to assume that oil will remain below that temperature in most situations.

The domestics and asians have always specified a low HTHS oil, while the euros typically specify a high HTHS oil. Different oiling requirements. FYI. A 5W30 product suitable for a BMW is not suitable for a GM/Toyota and vise versa. The euro oil is a "thick" 5W30 while the more common type that GM/Toyota and others specify is a "thin" 5W30.

The SAE xW-XX spec is helpful in narrowing down where on the shelf to look for what you want, but the ILSAC specs or manufacturer specific specs (dexos1, ILSAC GF5, 6A, etc...) are the only ones that really matter. An oil with a higher xW-XX number might offer better protection...but if it's not specified, then it's probably not need. If it meets the same manufacturer specific specs as the "lighter" or "thinner" oil, it shouldn't really perform much different.
 
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LargeOrangeFont

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I'll wait for you to show the class a manufacturer product data sheet that says any engine oil is good for a maximum of 212°F internal engine temps. I can't say I've ever seen oil temps that low in anything I've ever checked it in after driving for more than an hour or so. Also seeing as how many modern engines run the coolant far north of 212°F, and some don't have an oil cooler, it's foolish to assume that oil will remain below that temperature in most situations.

Tell Eneos they are foolish then. 🤣


Yore turn.
 
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Spot

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Having a car that burns oil is a headache. You constantly have to worry about it. Most dealers will say burning 1qt per 1,000 miles is normal.

You can always go to the dealer and ask for an oil consumption test. If there is a problem they may cover under warranty. Either way, adding oil all the time gets old quickly.
 
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TimeBandit

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If I were Havasu based I would run 0-40 full synthetic like the high end german cars do.

the "0" gets you cold start lubrication, the "40" can withstand high(er) temps.

That said GM says run Dexos2 0W-20 only in the 6.2, Dexos2 spec has low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulfur) which is supposed to prolong catalytic converter life

You hold 8.1 quarts, even when It's not showing on the dipstick you are not "empty" by any means.

Even the oilheads at Amsoil show 0W-20 as being correct for the 6.2L
 
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lbhsbz

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Tell Eneos they are foolish then. 🤣


Yore turn.
eneos didn't write that article...some idiot editor did. Try again. I trust product data sheets.

Edit, I'll save you the effort. There is no such spec on any oil product data sheet. There is flashpoint, but that's not what we're talking about.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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eneos didn't write that article...some idiot editor did. Try again. I trust product data sheets.

That must be why you can’t show the class the data sheets of a 0w20 and a 5w30.
 

PlanB

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Wife's 5.3 Burb has just under 15k on it. Oil is changed at 5K intervals, and I just checked and it is still topped off and it is a couple hundred miles away from the next change. I would never go 10K between oil changes.
 

Nordie

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It's a pretty common thing, the 5.0 Ford work truck I had. I took in for an oil change and the tech said there's no oil on the dipstick. .

One of the other guys I work with took his 2022 5.3 work truck in and they told him the same thing.

The one thing that does surprise about these modern engines is how many quarts they hold, it's not a 5 quart deal anymore. If I remember correctly I think the 5.0 took 8 quarts. I can't remember what the 5.3 took, but it seemed like more than 5.

I wouldn't panic, worst case scenario have a good warranty lol.
 
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