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Looking to buy an RV and need advice

aj923

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RVs in that price range you really gotta look at them. We just went through this. They can be super hammered and the seller will take pictures and make them look great. Have your financing ready to go because good deals go quickly.
 

Flying_Lavey

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RVs in that price range you really gotta look at them. We just went through this. They can be super hammered and the seller will take pictures and make them look great. Have your financing ready to go because good deals go quickly.
How long ago did you go through that? I am just asking cause everything I have seen the last few months indicates the market is tanking!
 

BHC Vic

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The one in looking at very seriously has been listed just under a year and I’m wondering why. It’s priced high I think it should be listed closer to 60 but other than that I don’t know why someone hasn’t grabbed it

 

aj923

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How long ago did you go through that? I am just asking cause everything I have seen the last few months indicates the market is tanking!
About a month ago. We were looking at motorhomes in the 30k range. We looked at a bunch. Some looked great in pictures only to be disappointed when we showed up to look at them. Bunk models were few and far between. We ended up with a 2007 National RV Surfside 34 class A that looks like it has never been parked without a cover.
IMG_2807.jpg
 

RiverDave

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The one in looking at very seriously has been listed just under a year and I’m wondering why. It’s priced high I think it should be listed closer to 60 but other than that I don’t know why someone hasn’t grabbed it


Dude you are pretty close to the price for mine at that point..

RD
 

BHC Vic

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About a month ago. We were looking at motorhomes in the 30k range. We looked at a bunch. Some looked great in pictures only to be disappointed when we showed up to look at them. Bunk models were few and far between. We ended up with a 2007 National RV Surfside 34 class A that looks like it has never been parked without a cover. View attachment 1409853
Wows that’s pretty. Is this the 2 bedroom floor plan? Great looking family by the way. Blessed
 

aj923

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Wows that’s pretty. Is this the 2 bedroom floor plan? Great looking family by the way. Blessed
Thanks! Yes two bedroom. Has a queen in the master then a small state room with the two bunks. First trip to black meadows over the 4th went great!

Have to get the leveling jacks sorted out is the only issue I have come across so far.
 

NicPaus

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Thanks! Yes two bedroom. Has a queen in the master then a small state room with the two bunks. First trip to black meadows over the 4th went great!

Have to get the leveling jacks sorted out is the only issue I have come across so far.
That was in the 30k range?
 

Flying_Lavey

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There is ALWAYS a deal down the road.. and on RV’s it’s only gonna get better here shortly!

RD
Yup. Agree 100% Dealers have started marking down from MSRP a decent amount, but nothing like it was before the 'vid craziness.
 
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RiverDave

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Yup. Agree 100% Dealers have started marking down from MSRP a decent amount, but nothing like it was before the 'vid craziness.

It’s why I’d like to sell mine now, and then purchase again towards end of summer beginning of winter.

I bought mine for 102.. during and after the vid I could have sold it for 150’ish..

I need to look up what it’s worth now but 80-90 (90 being high end?).

2014 Berkshire legacy 340 / triple bunk conversion.. 20k in solar and battleborn batteries etc.. crazy light upgrades through out including a led strip nightlight inside. 30,000 miles. Clean inside and out.. I’m gonna repaint the top cap though because it shows signs of fading now and I can’t stand that shit..

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IMG_3224.jpeg


RD
 

CLdrinker

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The one in looking at very seriously has been listed just under a year and I’m wondering why. It’s priced high I think it should be listed closer to 60 but other than that I don’t know why someone hasn’t grabbed it

Because financing it will be 9-10% interest if you’re lucky. That and it’s way over priced
 

BHC Vic

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I think I’m going to pull the money from my 401k but I haven’t decided yet. I’ll pay it off as soon as I can but I’ll probably go with a longer loan term just in case to not hand cuff myself if something goes wrong
 

stephenkatsea

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Thor? - They own a bunch of RV manufacturing companies, including what some consider the jewel of the entire industry, Airstream. I thought our last RV, the 40’ BigHorn, was built by Heartland Industries. Wrong. Thor bought them in 2010.
 

BHC Vic

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Yours was a new purchase the one he is looking at is almost 10years old.

Also you get better rates the bigger amount financed.

If I’m wrong I would love to know who will give me 7% on my toy hauler loan.
It does look like I need to stay 2014 or newer
IMG_2969.png
 

Singleton

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Yours was a new purchase the one he is looking at is almost 10years old.

Also you get better rates the bigger amount financed.

If I’m wrong I would love to know who will give me 7% on my toy hauler loan.
True, forgot about that.
Getting a loan on anything older then 10 year is difficult.
 

Englewood

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Yours was a new purchase the one he is looking at is almost 10years old.

Also you get better rates the bigger amount financed.

If I’m wrong I would love to know who will give me 7% on my toy hauler loan.
Unfortunately, It’s not out there…yet.
 

Ricks raft

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We have always had RVs of every type. The Early 2000's Diesel Pushers are a bargain. This year we bought a 2004 Holiday Rambler (Monaco) from a retiree in Havasu. It spent its whole life parked inside a garage and had every tank of fuel and every maintenance documented. He was asking $35K and also threw in about $5K worth of flat towing equipment- Tow bar, brake unit, wiring, car covers. I didnt even try to haggle him. View attachment 1409219
Great deal. Good coach.
 

Justsomeguy

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Singleton

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Low miles checks a lot of boxes and has a warranty. Only thing it doesn’t have that the 2015 does is the over cab bed. Because it’s a 2013 the interest rate might be higher too
Most warranties don’t transfer and what they actually cover is limited. Get a copy to verify it can transfer and see what it covers.

I just purchased a new RV. Took what the extended chassis and house warranties would have cost and placed that money into a savings account. Might purchase an extended chassis warranty before the mfg warranty expires, but on the house side, most things are easy to fix. Only exception is the firefly automation system.
 

BHC Vic

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20k miles vs 60k miles… on a 10-12 year old RV would you consider 60k a lot or something to be concerned about? As far as everything else 10-12 years is 10 to 12 years. What about generator hours? What’s a lot?
 

Singleton

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20k miles vs 60k miles… on a 10-12 year old RV would you consider 60k a lot or something to be concerned about? As far as everything else 10-12 years is 10 to 12 years. What about generator hours? What’s a lot?
Miles don’t matter. Maintenance matters.
Look at date code on tires. 5 years max on RV tires with the sun.

Ask for maintenance history and see if annual maintenance is being performed (even if miles don’t require it).
Verify genny runs and oil was changed every 150 hours. Check if genny is EFI or carb. If carb ask when was the last time the carb was changed (old gas ruins carbs).

Chassis maintenance is key. Having a record is even better. If they said they did eveything themselves, pay to have an inspection done. Worth the couple grand to save you time, money and stress down the road.
 

Cole Trickle

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roof leaks will be the biggest issue. Look at interior and exterior walls for stains or delamination.

Walk away immediately id you see issues or they don't have proof of religious sealing.

Like mentioned tires are pricey and I personally wouldn't want something older than say 3 years. Anything older and i would be reducing my offer.

I have almost jumped into buying a motorhome like 10x and I always chicken out because i know they are a terrible idea financially and I won't use it as much as I would like due to my kids sports activities. My sweet spot would be to find a clean used class c for say 40k buy it right so i can sell it in a couple years and lose only a little $$$. Its a gamble in this market unfortunately. Everyone that bought from 21-23 is gonna get killed on depreciation.

The motorhome market is only going to get better don't rush.
 

BHC Vic

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roof leaks will be the biggest issue. Look at interior and exterior walls for stains or delamination.

Walk away immediately id you see issues or they don't have proof of religious sealing.

Like mentioned tires are pricey and I personally wouldn't want something older than say 3 years. Anything older and i would be reducing my offer.

I have almost jumped into buying a motorhome like 10x and I always chicken out because i know they are a terrible idea financially and I won't use it as much as I would like due to my kids sports activities. My sweet spot would be to find a clean used class c for say 40k buy it right so i can sell it in a couple years and lose only a little $$$. Its a gamble in this market unfortunately. Everyone that bought from 21-23 is gonna get killed on depreciation.

The motorhome market is only going to get better don't rush.
Ugh I hate playing these kind of games. Maybe he’s telling the truth but I seriously doubt it

IMG_2981.jpeg
 

BHC Vic

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That’s a BS response from him.
He is trying to make you move at his pace. Do what you need to do at your pace and don’t feel pressure.
That’s the one that needs a lot of work. For the work it needs I’m not comfortable with the price. And the water damage has me scared enough to not even want to fly to Tempe to check it out
 

RiverDave

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Ugh I hate playing these kind of games. Maybe he’s telling the truth but I seriously doubt it

View attachment 1410199

Don’t even bother with shit like that. Do it on your time and your terms..

Come up with a price in your head (aggressive) and don’t move off of it. You will eventually get what you want for the price you want to pay.

RD
 

Singleton

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That’s the one that needs a lot of work. For the work it needs I’m not comfortable with the price. And the water damage has me scared enough to not even want to fly to Tempe to check it out

Then don’t. Or low ball offer him, and tell him that is my initial offer pending an inspection. Results of inspection will determine my real offer.
 

Justsomeguy

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That's a no brainer. Run don't walk.

Can we get more info on that fleetwood?
 

BHC Vic

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That's a no brainer. Run don't walk.

Can we get more info on that fleetwood?
That Fleetwood is beautiful but my wife has her heart set on bunks. It’s just one of those things. And for me this is supposed to be fun and I don’t want to argue with my wife that’s not fun 😂😂 not saying it would be an argument but Michelle knows what she wants and she usually gets what she wants. It’s @RiverDave fault for making everyone feel so entitled 😜
 

RiverDave

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That Fleetwood is beautiful but my wife has her heart set on bunks. It’s just one of those things. And for me this is supposed to be fun and I don’t want to argue with my wife that’s not fun 😂😂 not saying it would be an argument but Michelle knows what she wants and she usually gets what she wants. It’s @RiverDave fault for making everyone feel so entitled 😜

You want bunks.. trust me on this.

RD
 

rivrrts429

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I’ve never regretted my bunk model. The kids’ shit stays with them and not strewn across couches and the floor.

Kids are getting older so once they’re doing their own thing I’ll go back to a traditional floor plan.
 

Flyinbowtie

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Vic...

I would strongly suggest you only consider rigs you can personally go look at and spend several hours going over, unless you jump at RD's or someone you can trust. Buying one out of town is going to push you to jump even if it is wrong...because you flew in, big expectations, hurry to get on road home, etc.
I know how this can be, my friend.

There are so many systems to check out.. This is a complicated chassis with a lot of electronics on the engine that has had a house put on top of it, and then operated over our "roads". Towing a trailer you don't hear the rattles and squeaks, driving a motorhome you will...and you dang sure want to test drive anything you are looking at. I don't mean around the block, either. Warm it up. Merge onto the freeway, climb a hill kinda driving.

Test all the plumbing. Fill the water tanks...fresh and grey, to the top. Check for leaks. Same with the black, fill with fresh water, check the valves etc. Run the pump for about 15 min. IS it cycling with all the faucets etc closed? Is that a leak or just air in the system?
You really want a large pre purchase checklist, and check EVERYTHING. Take people you trust with you...if your Dad has a good eye for mechanical and your brother has a good eye for cabinetry take them both. IF you can find an RV tech that provides inspections it is worth the $ to get a hard look.

The one in vacaville...something ain't right or it would be gone.

If you have to stretch to get one that you KNOW is well taken care of, or one that has a ton of documentation, it'll be worth it. The deal is you have to commit to using these things...sitting in the yard is the worst thing you can do, especially with a MH...it is like letting a pickup sit...no good.
Get the dang thing out and use it.
Remember, an RV qualifies for a second home, which means a right off...
 

BHC Vic

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Vic...

I would strongly suggest you only consider rigs you can personally go look at and spend several hours going over, unless you jump at RD's or someone you can trust. Buying one out of town is going to push you to jump even if it is wrong...because you flew in, big expectations, hurry to get on road home, etc.
I know how this can be, my friend.

There are so many systems to check out.. This is a complicated chassis with a lot of electronics on the engine that has had a house put on top of it, and then operated over our "roads". Towing a trailer you don't hear the rattles and squeaks, driving a motorhome you will...and you dang sure want to test drive anything you are looking at. I don't mean around the block, either. Warm it up. Merge onto the freeway, climb a hill kinda driving.

Test all the plumbing. Fill the water tanks...fresh and grey, to the top. Check for leaks. Same with the black, fill with fresh water, check the valves etc. Run the pump for about 15 min. IS it cycling with all the faucets etc closed? Is that a leak or just air in the system?
You really want a large pre purchase checklist, and check EVERYTHING. Take people you trust with you...if your Dad has a good eye for mechanical and your brother has a good eye for cabinetry take them both. IF you can find an RV tech that provides inspections it is worth the $ to get a hard look.

The one in vacaville...something ain't right or it would be gone.

If you have to stretch to get one that you KNOW is well taken care of, or one that has a ton of documentation, it'll be worth it. The deal is you have to commit to using these things...sitting in the yard is the worst thing you can do, especially with a MH...it is like letting a pickup sit...no good.
Get the dang thing out and use it.
Remember, an RV qualifies for a second home, which means a right off...
I appreciate this. The young me wants to fight it and push my luck but I know you are right and have the experience to back it. There’s one in fort Mojave that might fit the bill and the owner is in Laughlin so logistically that might be better. RD mentioned I wasn’t too far off his price so maybe I try to push it for something nicer that I know is right and will last us a long time. I don’t think he’s selling yet so that would give me a little time to try to make something happen.
 

BHC Vic

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This one just doesn’t have the bed over cab but has everything else. I think that can be added.
IMG_2984.png
 

Bigbore500r

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So like the title says it’s time to bite the bullet. We sold the trailer and it’s time to get SOMETHING. As much as I don’t want a payment my boys are only getting older and it’s time to bite the bullet. As mush as I’d like to go all out it’s simply not in the cards right now. With that said I’m really trying to keep the budget at 30 and maybe up to 40k if it’s something Michelle really likes. So I guess first things first is there anybody here that has something that would work for us that you no longer use or have thought about maybe getting rid of?

I know a lot of you don’t fb but market place has a lot of RV’s so I’m going to post a few links and hopefully get some good and bad on these. There’s 5 in my family so I need to sleep 5. If I could get something with bunks that’s ideal. I think… I also want to be able to tow a trailer. I don’t own a sxs but you never know and I don’t want to just keep upgrading. I realize my budget is low. I’m trying to be responsible.

This one has bunks and I like it. So what’s the bad?

This one no bunks but my wife likes it and the price is right

This one is gas but newer and very nice what’s anyone got for this guy

I’m not in a huge hurry but like I said the boys are getting older and out group of friends is in the camping era. I’m not trying to keep up with the jones but I’m trying to enjoy good company and make memories. My buddy just bought Tony hawks old rv and as nice as it is and as much as I love it I’m just not at the stage of my life yet.
My 2 cents

Stay with a gasser. You don't need a diesel, or want the potential repairs and maintanance associated with a pusher. Plus - most used Diesel Pushers (especially older ones in your price range) are configured to 2 people to travel long distance / full time, and often don't have a good floorplan for a family with kids

If your looking at older RV's, it's worth it to go 2007-up as the 3V V10 is more powerful, and at a minimum it will have the 5 speed Torqueshift trans, which is worlds better than the older 4-speed trans. Way more power, better gearing.

Pay attention to wheelbase and Chassis GVWR - the shorter wheelbase / lower GVWR chassis often don't have enough weight capacity to really use the coach and load it heavy, let alone tow. The longer wheelbase, and 22k GVWR + chassis have 5.38 rear gears that really help handle the weight and give you way more pulling power. Coaches built on these chassis (usually around 35' long) usually also have larger fresh water tanks, which is a big bonus if your gonna desert camp / dry camp with the family.

Look for 50 amp service, and a 5500 generator. You don't want a 30amp or the micro-quiet 4000 generator. Just the sound of the 4000 makes me angry.....while the 5500 just loafs along calmly and can handle 3 AC's if needed.

AC's - You need 2! Don't get a single AC coach unless its 24' or smaller. They'll tell you its fine. It's not! See above about 50 amp service - you need this to reliably run 2 AC's and still have power to do other things.

They're all built like shit. Look for one that is used regularly, up on maintanance, and hasn't been sitting. Check the roof, ask when the last time it's been resealed. Check the caulking on the roof around vents, etc. Having the roof resealed and caulked is around $1500-$2000 unless you DIY, and the good materials are expensive. Also check to see if any of the windows show signs of fogging up inside, or are cloudy. Major issue with alot of the dual-pane windows. They're a few hundred bucks a window to have removed and cleaned, and usually the problem comes back unless your replacing the glass with laminated safety glass, which ups the cost.

Tires . . . regardless of visible condition, they're only good for 5 years. 19.5" tires can be 2K for a complete set.....22.5 are more. A complete set of 22.5 (6) can be 5k for the large Diesel Pusher rigs. Make sure to factor tires into the purchase price, if they're due for replacement soon!

Floorplan - having to get the kids off the dinette table to sit down in the morning sucks. The more permanant sleeping areas that don't involve the table or couch, the better. This is where the Class C rigs typically excel, as they all have that over-cab bed. Some of the newer Class-A family oriented rigs will have a drop down bed. Those are nice. We have a Class-A with a Bunkhouse, works great for the kids and leaves the living room area of the coach clean and uncluttered - all the kids junk fits in the bunks. Something to think about.

Storage compartments - I hate small compartments, look for tall compartments with the full-size flip up doors. They're out there, but alot of the cheaper A's you'll look at wont have them. Again - if you find a coach around 35' on the 22k or bigger chassis, it will most likely have the larger compartments, bigger water tank, etc. Whatever model your looking at - find the brochure / specs from that year coach online, and check capacities to confirm what it has for fresh water, black and grey tanks, etc.

Class A vs C...... A all the way. Class C is cool for tight spots, for getting that overhead bed, usually cheaper, but nothing beats the feeling of a nice Class A with a high roofline, and big ass windows up front overlooking the camp area (or river....).

That may have been more like 50 cents of advice......happy shopping!
 

Fabhouse

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My 2 cents

Stay with a gasser. You don't need a diesel, or want the potential repairs and maintanance associated with a pusher. Plus - most used Diesel Pushers (especially older ones in your price range) are configured to 2 people to travel long distance / full time, and often don't have a good floorplan for a family with kids

If your looking at older RV's, it's worth it to go 2007-up as the 3V V10 is more powerful, and at a minimum it will have the 5 speed Torqueshift trans, which is worlds better than the older 4-speed trans. Way more power, better gearing.

Pay attention to wheelbase and Chassis GVWR - the shorter wheelbase / lower GVWR chassis often don't have enough weight capacity to really use the coach and load it heavy, let alone tow. The longer wheelbase, and 22k GVWR + chassis have 5.38 rear gears that really help handle the weight and give you way more pulling power. Coaches built on these chassis (usually around 35' long) usually also have larger fresh water tanks, which is a big bonus if your gonna desert camp / dry camp with the family.

Look for 50 amp service, and a 5500 generator. You don't want a 30amp or the micro-quiet 4000 generator. Just the sound of the 4000 makes me angry.....while the 5500 just loafs along calmly and can handle 3 AC's if needed.

AC's - You need 2! Don't get a single AC coach unless its 24' or smaller. They'll tell you its fine. It's not! See above about 50 amp service - you need this to reliably run 2 AC's and still have power to do other things.

They're all built like shit. Look for one that is used regularly, up on maintanance, and hasn't been sitting. Check the roof, ask when the last time it's been resealed. Check the caulking on the roof around vents, etc. Having the roof resealed and caulked is around $1500-$2000 unless you DIY, and the good materials are expensive. Also check to see if any of the windows show signs of fogging up inside, or are cloudy. Major issue with alot of the dual-pane windows. They're a few hundred bucks a window to have removed and cleaned, and usually the problem comes back unless your replacing the glass with laminated safety glass, which ups the cost.

Tires . . . regardless of visible condition, they're only good for 5 years. 19.5" tires can be 2K for a complete set.....22.5 are more. A complete set of 22.5 (6) can be 5k for the large Diesel Pusher rigs. Make sure to factor tires into the purchase price, if they're due for replacement soon!

Floorplan - having to get the kids off the dinette table to sit down in the morning sucks. The more permanant sleeping areas that don't involve the table or couch, the better. This is where the Class C rigs typically excel, as they all have that over-cab bed. Some of the newer Class-A family oriented rigs will have a drop down bed. Those are nice. We have a Class-A with a Bunkhouse, works great for the kids and leaves the living room area of the coach clean and uncluttered - all the kids junk fits in the bunks. Something to think about.

Storage compartments - I hate small compartments, look for tall compartments with the full-size flip up doors. They're out there, but alot of the cheaper A's you'll look at wont have them. Again - if you find a coach around 35' on the 22k or bigger chassis, it will most likely have the larger compartments, bigger water tank, etc. Whatever model your looking at - find the brochure / specs from that year coach online, and check capacities to confirm what it has for fresh water, black and grey tanks, etc.

Class A vs C...... A all the way. Class C is cool for tight spots, for getting that overhead bed, usually cheaper, but nothing beats the feeling of a nice Class A with a high roofline, and big ass windows up front overlooking the camp area (or river....).

That may have been more like 50 cents of advice......happy shopping!
All excellent points and great info, I have had this exact experience. The only thing I will add is that I prefer driving a Super C over a class A.
 

Singleton

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All excellent points and great info, I have had this exact experience. The only thing I will add is that I prefer driving a Super C over a class A.
My wife will drive the SuperC, she 100% disliked her test drive in an A
 

Bigbore500r

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All excellent points and great info, I have had this exact experience. The only thing I will add is that I prefer driving a Super C over a class A.
Driving a Class A definatley isn't my favorite thing, I need to get some "half-height" curtains made to block the sun on the top 1/2 of the windshield when driving into the sun. My seat also sits too low, I keep saying im gonna change it or get some sort of cushion but I just deal with it. If I drove it frequently or real long distances I can see how the Diesel Pusher would be a big benefit, with the motor in the back and a flat floor without engine heat up front. We're usually driving less than 5 hours, so the A gasser it is.....
 
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