Just closed a deal on an F34

[BHC Vic]

You put up a 'red line' and are telling me there is no rocker, that's fine it wouldn't do any good at all .

All the 'steps and BS' will not fix the main problem, only STRAKES will .

The different heights of the 'notches' don't mean BS either, they don't effect the problem .

I would never compare a boat with Bravos to one with #6's, and the bottom mods would not be equal either .

Some one asked about 'removing the notches' and it's not a problem . They are there to 'raise the X', so filling them in would just force the use of 'stand off boxes equal distance that the notch was . OR, mounting the #6 LOWER into the water behind the boat . (notches act like stand off boxes or outboard brackets)

On a 30' + hull the notches do not effect the 'smooth ride', on reasonable waters . This kind of hull is supposed to 'pack air' and that should also improve any 'ride quality' .

PLEASE put a long straight edge (15'+)(I don't care if you use a string) up under the rear half of a sponson, measure where and how much the straight edge intersects or does not touch EVERY STEP trailing edge . Starting with one end of the straight edge at the notch, then going forward .

'Mid speed WALLOWING and GALLOPING' in turns or straight is due to having the steps in the wrong places/heights VS the rear of the riding surfaces .

I too am 'amased' that a few great brand names have come out with 'similar boats' that have 'the exact same stability problems', all around the same time . I remember now that I was out on Havasu during a Hot Boat Magazine boat test . There was a boat in the tests that had been on the cover of HB . The boat had FLAMES coming out all over the cover photos and looked impressive with it's big motors and drives .

The boat had 'uncontrollable bouncing' in the mid range speeds . I'm witnessing this brand named boat do exactly what we are correcting on my buddie's 33' Daytona at the time .

Gross weight requires 'LIFT' to ride on the surface . Leverage also requires lift on a planing surface, or it sinks .

I know you don't always like me but fuck id like to spend a week in your head.

 

[Shortdeck]

You put up a 'red line' and are telling me there is no rocker, that's fine it wouldn't do any good at all .

All the 'steps and BS' will not fix the main problem, only STRAKES will .

The different heights of the 'notches' don't mean BS either, they don't effect the problem .

I would never compare a boat with Bravos to one with #6's, and the bottom mods would not be equal either .

Some one asked about 'removing the notches' and it's not a problem . They are there to 'raise the X', so filling them in would just force the use of 'stand off boxes equal distance that the notch was . OR, mounting the #6 LOWER into the water behind the boat . (notches act like stand off boxes or outboard brackets)

On a 30' + hull the notches do not effect the 'smooth ride', on reasonable waters . This kind of hull is supposed to 'pack air' and that should also improve any 'ride quality' .

PLEASE put a long straight edge (15'+)(I don't care if you use a string) up under the rear half of a sponson, measure where and how much the straight edge intersects or does not touch EVERY STEP trailing edge . Starting with one end of the straight edge at the notch, then going forward .

'Mid speed WALLOWING and GALLOPING' in turns or straight is due to having the steps in the wrong places/heights VS the rear of the riding surfaces .

I too am 'amased' that a few great brand names have come out with 'similar boats' that have 'the exact same stability problems', all around the same time . I remember now that I was out on Havasu during a Hot Boat Magazine boat test . There was a boat in the tests that had been on the cover of HB . The boat had FLAMES coming out all over the cover photos and looked impressive with it's big motors and drives .

The boat had 'uncontrollable bouncing' in the mid range speeds . I'm witnessing this brand named boat do exactly what we are correcting on my buddie's 33' Daytona at the time .

Gross weight requires 'LIFT' to ride on the surface . Leverage also requires lift on a planing surface, or it sinks .

Thanks for the info AZGEO.

 

[Don Johnson]

The reason why the two hulls have the same problem is that they have the same designer. Ron Ehde designed both bottoms.

That certainly explains things! I sure spent a lot of time and money getting my 33 to be civil.....

AZGEO I know nothing about hull design and hydrodynamics. That said I have a question. On my f32, center pod boat, the last 3-4 feet is flat and has no lifting strake as well notched keel yet this boat handles virtually perfect. What makes the F32 design work so well vs old Daytona/F34 such a bad one? Lastly what caused the pronounced outside lean in turns on the 33/f34?

Thanks

 

[BHC Vic]

Or the f29

Never got to see into person but I absolutely loved the colors from the pic. My favorite boat last year for sure. Wish I could have owned it

 

[Stainless]

That video was the DS shootout, in 2009. He went 174mph on that run.

That 33 has since run 192mph at LOTO, 2012.

Some time during that day he idled by behind me in the spectator floatilla, damn it was loud idling. [emoji15]

 

[was thatguy]

Never got to see into person but I absolutely loved the colors from the pic. My favorite boat last year for sure. Wish I could have owned it

With your cash I'm surprised it isn't in your driveway!

 

[Meaney77]

The porpoise. You either had to be wet and sloppy or all in. The canopies that you couldn't see through. Wiping it down. Lol.

I have nothing to add here other than these posts are getting dirty!

 

[JRider]

Azgeo, what affect will the strakes have on rough water ability? lets say on re-entry? If it is going to come in rougher I may just leave it...sit down boat might make it a spine crusher. To tell you how big the water is, lake Erie crew seems to be partial to Cigs and true Vs. The lake MI crew has a variety but everything is bigger than typical Havasu boats, to give you an example of how big the water can be we had 18 footers last week...not shitting. Of course that was an extreme, the winds actually drained the west end and flooded the east end of Erie. Boats we literally on the ground moored to the piers. Anyway, to see glass/flat water on lake MI or Erie is rare.

Looking at the copter video of the 33, thats about as calm as it gets here.

While I am side tracked, in MI there is not a spot in the state that is more than 85 miles from a great lake and the only state with more coast line is Alaska.

 

[Skinny Tire AH]

Azgeo, what affect will the strakes have on rough water ability? lets say on re-entry? If it is going to come in rougher I may just leave it...sit down boat might make it a spine crusher. To tell you how big the water is, lake Erie crew seems to be partial to Cigs and true Vs. The lake MI crew has a variety but everything is bigger than typical Havasu boats, to give you an example of how big the water can be we had 18 footers last week...not shitting. Of course that was an extreme, the winds actually drained the west end and flooded the east end of Erie. Boats we literally on the ground moored to the piers. Anyway, to see glass/flat water on lake MI or Erie is rare.

Looking at the copter video of the 33, thats about as calm as it gets here.

While I am side tracked, in MI there is not a spot in the state that is more than 85 miles from a great lake and the only state with more coast line is Alaska.

JR,

That's an interesting fact. As to your larger boat statement. MTI has built the 36RP with the West Coast / Havasu scene in mind. They understand the dynamic of matching boat size to possible conditions.

I'm certain you'll get this thing right. Effort usually equals results. Your effort is obvious. :thumb up:

From the MTI site.

36 Model
The brand new 2013 MTI 36 Pleasure/Race Series is changing all the rules with legendary MTI performance, quality, and style in a mid-size platform. With the 36 Pleasure/Race Series race proven hull design, superior construction, and aggressive styling you just won’t find a faster, better handling, or more efficient boat amongst the competition. With available seating for six and an optional day cabin, you and your guests will cruise or Poker Run all day in stylish comfort. As with our other models, precision fit and finish, meticulous rigging, and only the highest standards of quality are evident throughout. The 36 Pleasure Series was created for not only the Desert Run Poker runners on the West Coast, but the enthusiast who is looking for incredible performance and exceptional handling in a more versatile sized boat. The twin 700hp power combination is the most common power package for the new 36’ series.

Length Over All (LOA): 36′ – 0” • Beam: 10′ – 6” • Fuel Capacity: 150 Gallons

 

[FreeBird236]

The reason why the two hulls have the same problem is that they have the same designer. Ron Ehde designed both bottoms. A guy at the Lake of the Ozarks has a 34 that he put plates in the notch and improved things with this. Helped outward lean as well. I believe the strakes would help a lot. My bet would be on fill in notch, add stakes, address notch issue. I think the prop height on the 34 was set up conservatively anyway and you could get away with it and not have to space back. I think the extra tunnel compression by filling in the notch would help. I would not remove the tab but fix it in a neutral position which would help tunnel compression. These changes would help with hydrodynamic and aerodynamic lift. Tres said mine was trying to find a stable surface to ride on. I can tell Az knows what hes talking about.
It should be noted that all true tunnels of this size have a hop ! The best ones have a mild hop and a very narrow speed range that they will hop. Think of 32 Skater, 36 spectre, etc.....

I've heard some people have taken it upon themselves to modify his designs with not such great results, but Ron gets credit for them.:rolleyes

 

[Gelcoater]

I've heard some people have taken it upon themselves to modify his designs with not such great results, but Ron gets credit for them.:rolleyes

Ron gets credit for the original design.
Sometime in 99-2000 our friend Thane (with Nordic now) was working there and did some tinkering on it.

Best I can recall he bet Bob and Brent a $100 he could bolt some stuff to the bottom of their race boat and pick up 10mph.
They took the bet,he whittled up some widgets,stuck them on and they ran it.It picked up 13 mph and he won the bet.:cool

 

[Skinny Tire AH]

Ron gets credit for the original design.
Sometime in 99-2000 our friend Thane (with Nordic now) was working there and did some tinkering on it.

Best I can recall he bet Bob and Brent a $100 he could bolt some stuff to the bottom of their race boat and pick up 10mph.
They took the bet,he whittled up some widgets,stuck them on and they ran it.It picked up 13 mph and he won the bet.:cool

So, by some twisted logic, are we to assume that Bob and Brent are the first investors in Nordic? Hmmmm?

 

[FreeBird236]

Ron gets credit for the original design.
Sometime in 99-2000 our friend Thane (with Nordic now) was working there and did some tinkering on it.

Best I can recall he bet Bob and Brent a $100 he could bolt some stuff to the bottom of their race boat and pick up 10mph.
They took the bet,he whittled up some widgets,stuck them on and they ran it.It picked up 13 mph and he won the bet.:cool

That's pretty cool:cool, I was actually thinking of a different boat.

 

[JRider]

I've heard some people have taken it upon themselves to modify his designs with not such great results, but Ron gets credit for them.:rolleyes

Credit for a turd? Or two turds? Wonder how this would play out in a wrongful death law suit? Who's the fall guy, DCB or the design guy?

 

[CampbellCarl]

Credit for a turd? Or two turds? Wonder how this would play out in a wrongful death law suit? Who's the fall guy, DCB or the design guy?

Which ever had the better (or lesser) team of insurance companies and lawyers..

 

[GRADS]

Hey JRider, just curious, you keep saying you will be running in rough water. I'm guessing the Great Lakes get pretty rough. What kind of conditions are we talking about? Do those lakes get swells or big chop?

Tahoe will at times get at least a 6' chop and it is scary because you can't time it like swells..:yikes I had a boat break apart on me.

 

[CampbellCarl]

Hey JRider, just curious, you keep saying you will be running in rough water. I'm guessing the Great Lakes get pretty rough. What kind of conditions are we talking about? Do those lakes get swells or big chop?

Tahoe will at times get at least a 6' chop and it is scary because you can't time it like swells..:yikes I had a boat break apart on me.

Should have bought a better quality boat...

 

[GRADS]

Should have bought a better quality boat...

In defense of the builder, they built me a brand new boat. No charge.

 

[dread Pirate]

Hey JRider, just curious, you keep saying you will be running in rough water. I'm guessing the Great Lakes get pretty rough. What kind of conditions are we talking about? Do those lakes get swells or big chop?

Tahoe will at times get at least a 6' chop and it is scary because you can't time it like swells..:yikes I had a boat break apart on me.

Here's a vid of an Apache on Lake Michigan.. :yikes

[video=youtube;ttN2stWdoeg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttN2stWdoeg[/video]

 

[JRider]

That is BIG water, looks like 6' or more, true Patchee water . Every time I have went to Grand Haven and water was like that I turned back and went to the bar!

To answer the last question, lake MI can throw about anything at you. Sometimes its chop like the 33 elim vid, evenly spaced swells are nice and they are common. That vid makes me envision stress cracks, one reason the 34 is in my wheelhouse...not saying I would attempt it because I would not.

 

[AzGeo]

Azgeo, what affect will the strakes have on rough water ability? lets say on re-entry? If it is going to come in rougher I may just leave it...sit down boat might make it a spine crusher. To tell you how big the water is, lake Erie crew seems to be partial to Cigs and true Vs. The lake MI crew has a variety but everything is bigger than typical Havasu boats, to give you an example of how big the water can be we had 18 footers last week...not shitting. Of course that was an extreme, the winds actually drained the west end and flooded the east end of Erie. Boats we literally on the ground moored to the piers. Anyway, to see glass/flat water on lake MI or Erie is rare.

Looking at the copter video of the 33, thats about as calm as it gets here.

While I am side tracked, in MI there is not a spot in the state that is more than 85 miles from a great lake and the only state with more coast line is Alaska.

The owners give the designer certain parameters for a new design . Ron Ehde is well known for a number of different successful hull designs, and he (IMO) should never be attacked for circumstances that are out of his control . (RIP Ronny)

I'm assuming he worked with his designs to use Bravos, and they do . So now someone puts #6s on the boat and "we all want to 'hang' the designer" ? Let's all step back and consider what the hull design must endure when going from Bravos to #6s . Just like some hulls can or cannot be V-drives, so are all designs subject to limitations .

Let's get down to BASICS on these hulls and what I am stating will work . I am telling you to 'ADD STRAKES and ADJUST THE STEPS", that's all . (adjust the tunnels for even more speed) What I advocate will NOT CHANGE THE BALANCE, so why do you ask about "rough water re-entry" or anything of the sort ? IF he boat is GROSSLY OUT OF BALANCE it will dive in after some air, but don't blame my modifications for that problem . IT WON'T HAPPEN . STRAKES NEVER SLAM DOWN ON RE-ENTRY, only 'pads' and 'flat spots' do .

IF you were REALLY concerned about "rough Great Lakes Waters", why did you buy a 'west coast design' that has 'half the entry deadrise of an eastern boat' ? The STRAKES I implore you to install, are EXACTLY what a rough or smooth water boat needs .

One poster here gave info on his cat that had 'large flat spots/pads' at the rear of the sponsons . I have not actually seen them, but I know what they are doing and what they are capable of doing . The 'flat spots' are lifting the heavy tail of the boat . (just like strakes) IF THEY ARE TOO BIG (overall lifting surface) they COULD SLAM on the water, stop the tail from dropping and allow the nose to 'dive' into the next roller . This is expressly why I said STRAKES, nothing else . What he has may be 'just right' for his application, I don't know (have not even seen them) but for a 'rough water boat', I like STRAKES .

 

[Gelcoater]

Credit for a turd? Or two turds? Wonder how this would play out in a wrongful death law suit? Who's the fall guy, DCB or the design guy?

Considering Ron Ehde has passed away I would assume DCB or who ever took it upon themselves to modify the bottom?

 

[jack14r]

Considering Ron Ehde has passed away I would assume DCB or who ever took it upon themselves to modify the bottom?

Since Ron Ehde did the F34 who did the other F boats and the M boats?

 

[Gelcoater]

Since Ron Ehde did the F34 who did the other F boats and the M boats?

I'm not entirely sure.
I have little affiliation with them besides knowing a couple of guys,Tony,Dave and Tito.
I'm pretty sure but not positive Rick Davy did some tooling on at least one of the M models?


Edit...While Ron is credited with the design of the first 33 Daytona,Rick Davies hands actually did the work of producing the plug the mold was made from.
At least,Rick is credited with that according to the article on toolers in the July 2002 article on toolers in Hot Boat Magazine.

 

[AzGeo]

be here to give us his POV .

Look at the VIN on the hull, that is who is responsible for anything PROVEN UNSAFE . PROVEN would be the key word here .

I'm here to focus on going forward, no design is universal, so why try to 'point fingers' none of us is perfect .

I have always made my tooling (molds) with all the largest cavities possible for the basic design . Then I can fabricate 'inserts' to modify the design to work with the kind of rigging we plan to use . Just how I do it .

When looking at larger, more expensive boats and now realizing that they 'design and plan' for minimal power, I can only ask WHY ? Why not 'design and plan' for maximum power installations and then 'tune the bottom' (inserts) for lesser power combinations ?

As far as my thoughts go, the midrange cat 'hopping' is just a result of 'not wanting to spend $$$ to fix it', and not an 'unfixable problem' .

If the cat hull does not have strakes to the transom, put some on . If it does have strakes to the transom, put another one directly outside the existing one, and the 'hop' will disappear .

'V' shaped sections of any hull bottom with NO STRAKES, have very little 'lift' yet always demand 'great amounts of drag' . WHY do people keep making boats with the same performance problems, year after year ?

Maybe the 'tooling shop' and the 'rigging shop' never get a chance to discuss WTF they are going to build together .........

"If going fast in boats were easy, everyone would be doing it" .

 

[Don Johnson]

be here to give us his POV .

Look at the VIN on the hull, that is who is responsible for anything PROVEN UNSAFE . PROVEN would be the key word here .

I'm here to focus on going forward, no design is universal, so why try to 'point fingers' none of us is perfect .

I have always made my tooling (molds) with all the largest cavities possible for the basic design . Then I can fabricate 'inserts' to modify the design to work with the kind of rigging we plan to use . Just how I do it .

When looking at larger, more expensive boats and now realizing that they 'design and plan' for minimal power, I can only ask WHY ? Why not 'design and plan' for maximum power installations and then 'tune the bottom' (inserts) for lesser power combinations ?

As far as my thoughts go, the midrange cat 'hopping' is just a result of 'not wanting to spend $$$ to fix it', and not an 'unfixable problem' .

If the cat hull does not have strakes to the transom, put some on . If it does have strakes to the transom, put another one directly outside the existing one, and the 'hop' will disappear .

'V' shaped sections of any hull bottom with NO STRAKES, have very little 'lift' yet always demand 'great amounts of drag' . WHY do people keep making boats with the same performance problems, year after year ?

Maybe the 'tooling shop' and the 'rigging shop' never get a chance to discuss WTF they are going to build together .........

"If going fast in boats were easy, everyone would be doing it" .

AZGEO as I said before I know nothing on bottom designs and I am enjoying you sharing your knowledge very much, thanks!

I do have 2 questions;

1. See below link to a picture of the bottom on my F32 DCB. There is no lifting strake on the back of the boat. This is a number 6 boat. The F32 is known as a reasonably fast hull but probably better known for how well behaved the boat is, it does everything right, no hop, turns very well at all speeds. I am not taking issue with your thoughts on lifting strakes at the back of the boat but why does this boat seemingly work fine without them and some need them?

2. I owned an early 33 Daytona. What in that hull design causes the pronounced outward lean in slow/transitional speeds?

Thanks!

http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=381333&d=1418419874

 

[BHC Vic]

AZGEO as I said before I know nothing on bottom designs and I am enjoying you sharing your knowledge very much, thanks!

I do have 2 questions;

1. See below link to a picture of the bottom on my F32 DCB. There is no lifting strake on the back of the boat. This is a number 6 boat. The F32 is known as a reasonably fast hull but probably better known for how well behaved the boat is, it does everything right, no hop, turns very well at all speeds. I am not taking issue with your thoughts on lifting strakes at the back of the boat but why does this boat seemingly work fine without them and some need them?

2. I owned an early 33 Daytona. What in that hull design causes the pronounced outward lean in slow/transitional speeds?

Thanks!

http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=381333&d=1418419874

Are the boat weights drastically different?

 

[CLA]

Jrider, I hope your boat works out.

I made the jump to a 36 Daytona and had a big learning curve. My boat has a very small center sponson also, very small. My boat does not like slick water, being below 70mph, or 4 blade props.

Give my boat 77mph plus or chop or 5-6 blade props and she will eat! Also has a nice lean in turns. But is it frustrating when in calm water and a potato chip F29 pulls up and wants to drag race? Yes

My boat benefited greatly from full diameter 5 blade herrings and blue printed lowers. The 4 blades chopped the water and caused a vibration.

My hop speed is 94-96mph to 100-105mph in glass water.


Key west in real water

 

[underpressure]

Here's a vid of an Apache on Lake Michigan.. :yikes

[video=youtube;ttN2stWdoeg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttN2stWdoeg[/video]

You know, I like boating (a lot) like most of us on here. but, If that was my "normal" boating experience, I'd say "eff it" and take up bowling. That is crazy ass shit water, no thanks!

Plus, if that's the norm, a Cat isn't the right answer IMHO...

 

[Flying_Lavey]

You know, I like boating (a lot) like most of us on here. but, If that was my "normal" boating experience, I'd say "eff it" and take up bowling. That is crazy ass shit water, no thanks!

Plus, if that's the norm, a Cat isn't the right answer IMHO...

I was thinking the same thing. I actually don't think any planning hull is appropriate for that shit water. I'm thinking a quality displacement hull is appropriate. Lol!

 

[JRider]

You know, I like boating (a lot) like most of us on here. but, If that was my "normal" boating experience, I'd say "eff it" and take up bowling. That is crazy ass shit water, no thanks!

Plus, if that's the norm, a Cat isn't the right answer IMHO...

That is not the norm but it does get big like that from time to time. Apache is arguably the best big water hull out there...

 

[JRider]

Jrider, I hope your boat works out.

I made the jump to a 36 Daytona and had a big learning curve. My boat has a very small center sponson also, very small. My boat does not like slick water, being below 70mph, or 4 blade props.

Give my boat 77mph plus or chop or 5-6 blade props and she will eat! Also has a nice lean in turns. But is it frustrating when in calm water and a potato chip F29 pulls up and wants to drag race? Yes

My boat benefited greatly from full diameter 5 blade herrings and blue printed lowers. The 4 blades chopped the water and caused a vibration.

My hop speed is 94-96mph to 100-105mph in glass water.


Key west in real water

You spin the props in? Looks like XRs on a standoff boxs? What Rake are your props?

 

[dread Pirate]

40' Skater on Lake Michigan.

[video=youtube;S2Ldqp4vjCY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2Ldqp4vjCY[/video]

 

[CLA]

You spin the props in? Looks like XRs on a standoff boxs? What Rake are your props?

Yes, I am spinning the props in. I threw my Teague Platinum drives in the trash after I kept busting them like the junk they are.

I'm running SCX uppers with blue printed 1400 lowers. My build thread http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ull-overhaul-36-daytona-ilmor-teague-etc.html

18 degree but I had to send them back to Jim @ Hering for a little work so the specs may be a little different.

I also set my tab at just a nut hair in the negative and never adjust it.

 

[JRider]

Yes, I am spinning the props in. I threw my Teague Platinum drives in the trash after I kept busting them like the junk they are.

I'm running SCX uppers with blue printed 1400 lowers. My build thread http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ull-overhaul-36-daytona-ilmor-teague-etc.html

18 degree but I had to send them back to Jim @ Hering for a little work so the specs may be a little different.

I also set my tab at just a nut hair in the negative and never adjust it.

I followed that thread, thought it looked familiar, awesome job on it! You are very particular and do excellent work!

 

[AzGeo]

AZGEO as I said before I know nothing on bottom designs and I am enjoying you sharing your knowledge very much, thanks!

I do have 2 questions;

1. See below link to a picture of the bottom on my F32 DCB. There is no lifting strake on the back of the boat. This is a number 6 boat. The F32 is known as a reasonably fast hull but probably better known for how well behaved the boat is, it does everything right, no hop, turns very well at all speeds. I am not taking issue with your thoughts on lifting strakes at the back of the boat but why does this boat seemingly work fine without them and some need them?

2. I owned an early 33 Daytona. What in that hull design causes the pronounced outward lean in slow/transitional speeds?

Thanks!

http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=381333&d=1418419874

The center pod being as deep as 1/2 of the outside sponson, and the center pod has strakes on it . So this boat 'runs well', but may just be riding ON the center pod 80%+ of the time, and bouncing off the center 'in straight lines at extreme speeds' .

So with the center pod holding up the tail of the boat, this still leaves 1/2 of the rear outer sponsons 'dragging thru' the water at speeds . (on smooth water) It 'feels good and stable' cause it's WET and not flying .

Please challenge my point, have a friend video tape from another boat along side, your boat at speed . You will see that 'at least 1/2 of the rear sponson will be underwater', because the little strakes on the center pod are exactly that high up .

 

[AzGeo]

The original 33' design had all the 'steps' in line with each other, and it just drags the chine thru all the turns like that . My buddie's was one of the 'first 5 or 10', and his was the first to install #6s .

With all the 'steps' in a line, the hull needs to be 'flying', or it is deep and wet, 'wallowing' . The 'steps' must be 'staggered' to the rear, in order to use them to 'free up the hull' .

On the 33' the first 'step' was left alone, the second was EXTENDED towards the transom (aprox) 18" . In doing this a new attack angle was created and it had (aprox) 864 square inches (2 sponsons) to help lift the nose weight at the new steeper angle .

Face it, with all the tail weight having NOTHING TO HOLD IT UP ON PLANE, (no strakes and the center wet) and the entire chine plowing thru the water in a turn, what kind of performance can anyone expect ?

 

[Don Johnson]

The center pod being as deep as 1/2 of the outside sponson, and the center pod has strakes on it . So this boat 'runs well', but may just be riding ON the center pod 80%+ of the time, and bouncing off the center 'in straight lines at extreme speeds' .

So with the center pod holding up the tail of the boat, this still leaves 1/2 of the rear outer sponsons 'dragging thru' the water at speeds . (on smooth water) It 'feels good and stable' cause it's WET and not flying .

Please challenge my point, have a friend video tape from another boat along side, your boat at speed . You will see that 'at least 1/2 of the rear sponson will be underwater', because the little strakes on the center pod are exactly that high up .

Thanks for the insights, very informative! Below is a link to my boat at speed running right at 160 MPH. To your point rear of sponsons are definitely wet.

http://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=cVAA6nAY3ms&u=/watch?v=r-zOSq1vKUc&feature=em-upload_owner

 

[JRider]

Got the boat home tonight, motors a Badass for sure. Anyway, one problem I see with adding strakes after the last step is the through hull pickups, exactly in the wrong spot. Will get some pics when I am not so wore out. :thumbup:

 

[BHC Vic]

Got the boat home tonight, motors a Badass for sure. Anyway, one problem I see with adding strakes after the last step is the through hull pickups, exactly in the wrong spot. Will get some pics when I am not so wore out. :thumbup:

Go get some pics!!!

 

[plaster dave]

Got the boat home tonight, motors a Badass for sure. Anyway, one problem I see with adding strakes after the last step is the through hull pickups, exactly in the wrong spot. Will get some pics when I am not so wore out. :thumbup:

You're already doing glass work to add the strakes so you fill in the holes and move them over or get the new style Teague ones that are adjustable off the back of the transom step. I think think don posted a pic of his or someone else did in this thread.
Here's a pick of the pickup.

 

[JRider]

Sorry if I pissed anyone off in this thread...if nothing else a lot of good info came out here!

 

[RiverDave]

Sorry if I pissed anyone off in this thread...if nothing else a lot of good info came out here!

People get sensitive when there's keyboards in front of them and no booze..

IF there's booze and a keyboard then people either don't give a shit, or they go all jihad..

RD

 

[H20-ski]

What a long winded thread.

Nice looking boat. Go drive it already. :rolleyes

 

[MSum661]

I agree...damn nice ride!! :thumbsup

 

[n2otoofast4u]

You get this boat on the water yet?

 

[Bigbore500r]

I'd like to see if there are any updates also

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Still nothing?

 

[AFTERSHOCK RACING+]

any updates ?

 

[Bigbore500r]

I saw it on the water yesterday



Seriously though - any updates?