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Generator Load Bank questions

RiverDave

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Can you add a motorhome generator to one of the cabinets at this point? Seems like a drop in the bucket compared to what you have into this project.

No none of them are large enough for that
 

RiverDave

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That sounds like something other than a loading issue, how much fuel did it burn?


I don’t have an exact runtime, but I will guess it to be about eight hours and it used 1.8 gallons

IMG_6270.jpeg
 

Taboma

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If you google MEP 803A, you'll find a couple of forums with in depth conversations due to the popularity of this genset with the off grid types.
One is Steel Soldiers ---- here's a few quotes.

Posts From Steel Soldiers forum ---- regarding MEP 802 (5KW) and 803 (10KW)

1."Mine has improve significantly with running it under a load. I started with an old electric range and logged about 4-6 hours on 3 different weekends to exercise the unit. It's nice as you can vary the load with different sized burners. I also set one burner on "medium" so it would cycle on/off to exercise the governor. It always has some exhaust visible when first starting or after warmed under 90% plus load. The longer it runs the better it gets. I exercised hooked up to the house this past weekend. All lights and appliances AND my daughter was drying clothes in an electric dryer."

2. "Howdy, Any surplus generator should be loaded at least to 100% load. Whether is shows signs of wet stacking or not."

3. "Howdy, A good hard run to ensure your generator is ready to go is always good. A good 4 hour full load will clean it up."

4. "If it won't pull a full load run it as high a load as it can while maintaining RPM. If its wetstacked it will smoke a lot. Once the smoke clears add load till it stumbles then back it down a bit. Repeat this pattern till it will handle a full load. Don't forget to let it cool under light load before shutting it down."

5. "Was thinking of getting an electric cook top & toaster oven for out there, but they won't be on all night. I'd need something throughout the night to keep a decent load on the generator. I tow it out there & can run it on the house for a few hours every month or so to really clean it up good. Anyone have an idea of how much load keeps this from happening?"

6. "IMO your putting to much concern on the wet stacking. Run it as usual, then once every 2-3 months put a hard load on it to clear it up. I have a couple of people that run the sets at 25% or below and then they put a hard load on it to clear it up. I have one guy that has logged over 12,000 hours running 24/7 at 25% on a 802a, he does put a large load on it every 6 months to clear it up."
 

RiverDave

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On a side note we crossed another milestone today. Both main tanks are fueled up and this is the first time it is running off them instead of the generator tank.

The photo is messed up because it’s the same frequency as the camera

IMG_6271.jpeg
 

RiverDave

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If you google MEP 803A, you'll find a couple of forums with in depth conversations due to the popularity of this genset with the off grid types.
One is Steel Soldiers ---- here's a few quotes.

Posts From Steel Soldiers forum ---- regarding MEP 802 (5KW) and 803 (10KW)

1."Mine has improve significantly with running it under a load. I started with an old electric range and logged about 4-6 hours on 3 different weekends to exercise the unit. It's nice as you can vary the load with different sized burners. I also set one burner on "medium" so it would cycle on/off to exercise the governor. It always has some exhaust visible when first starting or after warmed under 90% plus load. The longer it runs the better it gets. I exercised hooked up to the house this past weekend. All lights and appliances AND my daughter was drying clothes in an electric dryer."

2. "Howdy, Any surplus generator should be loaded at least to 100% load. Whether is shows signs of wet stacking or not."

3. "Howdy, A good hard run to ensure your generator is ready to go is always good. A good 4 hour full load will clean it up."

4. "If it won't pull a full load run it as high a load as it can while maintaining RPM. If its wetstacked it will smoke a lot. Once the smoke clears add load till it stumbles then back it down a bit. Repeat this pattern till it will handle a full load. Don't forget to let it cool under light load before shutting it down."

5. "Was thinking of getting an electric cook top & toaster oven for out there, but they won't be on all night. I'd need something throughout the night to keep a decent load on the generator. I tow it out there & can run it on the house for a few hours every month or so to really clean it up good. Anyone have an idea of how much load keeps this from happening?"

6. "IMO your putting to much concern on the wet stacking. Run it as usual, then once every 2-3 months put a hard load on it to clear it up. I have a couple of people that run the sets at 25% or below and then they put a hard load on it to clear it up. I have one guy that has logged over 12,000 hours running 24/7 at 25% on a 802a, he does put a large load on it every 6 months to clear it up."

I am going to Walmart today to buy like six 1,000 watt personal space heaters. I can run the chords through the drop downs and put em under the truck so you won’t even know they are there?
 

lbhsbz

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I am going to Walmart today to buy like six 1,000 watt personal space heaters. I can run the chords through the drop downs and put em under the truck so you won’t even know they are there?
Just get window A/C units. In the summer, turn ‘em so the cold blows out. In the winter, turn ‘em so the hot blows out
 

RiverDave

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Just get window A/C units. In the summer, turn ‘em so the cold blows out. In the winter, turn ‘em so the hot blows out

I have two of them in the truck already they are so efficient now they barely affect it.
 

RiverDave

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So I went to Walmart and I bought four 1500 W personal space heaters and plugged them in. This is the current load reading.

IMG_6273.jpeg
 

RiverDave

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I will say with all of them plugged in the generator burns considerably cleaner as the exhaust smell disappears quickly.

So I think my game plan is to just run it as it is, but if we are going to have it at somebody’s house or near people, I will just plug-in a bunch of space heaters so that we don’t have to smell the exhaust.. ? Then once a week I’ll run like five or six heaters plugged in for an hour or two
 

Taboma

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I will say with all of them plugged in the generator burns considerably cleaner as the exhaust smell disappears quickly.

So I think my game plan is to just run it as it is, but if we are going to have it at somebody’s house or near people, I will just plug-in a bunch of space heaters so that we don’t have to smell the exhaust.. ? Then once a week I’ll run like five or six heaters plugged in for an hour or two
Is that 55% the load percentage for the 6kw of space heaters + the 2.7kw of display & AC load combined ? Or just the 6kw heaters ?
 

Cray Paper

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Can you run electric car chargers off your rig? It just seems so wasteful adding heaters to add load.
 

RiverDave

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Is that 55% the load percentage for the 6kw of space heaters + the 2.7kw of display & AC load combined ? Or just the 6kw heaters ?

So one of the space heaters is bad so it is 4500 plus the screen and 2 ac’s.

Well not entirely sure if it’s bad but I believe it to be. Will find out Monday if it is..
 

rrrr

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Agreed 👍
But come on 😁;)
Let's not argue that throttle position, whether controlled by the hand, foot, governor, or ECU, isn't relative to achieving adequate engine RPM to manage various loads under varying conditions ?

Allow me to assure you, I wasn't referring to something like this 🤣

View attachment 1433998


The vast majority of 3/4 ton to 1.5 ton pickups, capable of towing 12-25K lb trailers or more, spend 75% of their life-cycle, if not more, running empty and towing nothing and I can easily think of entire marinas filled with various diesel powered recreational pleasure boats that only rarely get properly exercised and various rental equipment that's abused daily in that regard.
Somehow, perhaps not ideally, but they do survive. Ideally we should have run our Army LCM-8's with a M-60 Tank in the hold, or carrying 80,000 lbs of cargo, but we didn't, we often ran them empty to get back to port.

But relative to this thread, that's all irrelevant, the only thing that is, is what does Dave's MEP-803A require and how frequently and what's his most reasonable course of action to achieve it. Perhaps a MEP-802A would have been a better choice, but that ship has probably sailed.

So, run it and find out, unless he's already done so and hence this thread.

Regardless, he's made it clear, he's hoping to use the truck in varying capacities, lightly loaded, but also capable of powering additional loads as the occasion demands. Ideally he'd have a variable load bank capable of being adjusted to optimum engine loading, but that's not going to happen.
Hopefully he can find a reasonable priced 4-6 KW 240V single phase load bank --- or go buy two Home Depot 240V 25,000 BTU AC's and blow cold air out one side and hot out the other. 🤣;)
Those modern pickups have 100% computer controlled injection and other devices that precisely control fuel delivery.

RD's ex-military unit has a mechanical fuel pump that provides pressure adequate to support the full rated load, regardless of what the actual load is. That technology, along with period manufacturing tolerances, is why lightly loaded older gensets have fuel stacking issues.

From my experience that hasn't been an issue since Tier III controls were introduced around 2000-2004. It was never a problem with the dozens of units I installed from that period and later.
 

Bajastu

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How does Cat build Marine engines that spend the vast majority of their life cycle at far less than 70% or higher throttle ?
Most sportfishers or even larger yachts don't perform a day fishing or long range transits at more than 30% throttle, often far less. So in terms of % of hours, 70+% throttle time was rather insignificant.
Or do they just suffer the consequences of a diminished life-cycle and higher maintenance ?
Keep in mind that if you are at 30% throttle, the boat is still under load at the prop. It’s like driving uphill all of the time. Fuel burn will determine load percentage at a given rpm. The RDP statement of, “Did you try another prop?” will alway solve your issue of fuel burn/engine load at the desired cruising or trolling speeds.

Generators should be sized to accommodate the desired load to live a happy long life.
 

Dalton

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Those modern pickups have 100% computer controlled injection and other devices that precisely control fuel delivery.

RD's ex-military unit has a mechanical fuel pump that provides pressure adequate to support the full rated load, regardless of what the actual load is. That technology, along with period manufacturing tolerances, is why lightly loaded older gensets have fuel stacking issues.

From my experience that hasn't been an issue since Tier III controls were introduced around 2000-2004. It was never a problem with the dozens of units I installed from that period and later.


not quite.....the engine speed is controlled by a knob outside of frame in the above picture, generally you load it up, the HZ gauge will drop below 60 then you twist the knob to bring it back up to 60. Let's say you're powering a large AC with a big compressor, you've essentially got to find a sweet spot, cause the HZ will drop slightly when the compressor kicks on, it takes some fine tuning, but you get rock solid reliability in return.

I've only worked on generators that were either military or civilian export models with no emissions, so I can't speak to whether Tier III gens suffer from wet stacking or not. But, I would probably take a emission-less export model and deal with the load banking over a model with emissions equipment.

A long time ago I took care of a gen that had a permanently installed load bank right in front of the radiator, that was kinda cool.
 

Taboma

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Keep in mind that if you are at 30% throttle, the boat is still under load at the prop. It’s like driving uphill all of the time. Fuel burn will determine load percentage at a given rpm. The RDP statement of, “Did you try another prop?” will alway solve your issue of fuel burn/engine load at the desired cruising or trolling speeds.

Generators should be sized to accommodate the desired load to live a happy long life.

"Did you try another prop?” will alway solve your issue of fuel burn/engine load at the desired cruising or trolling speeds."

The larger diesel boats I've owned and been on didn't have variable pitch props to solve the issue of fuel burn/engine load to best accommodate optimal cruising, trolling, light and or heavy loads, in order to maintain any specific load.
In the case of our LCM 8's, we might be hauling a tank, or 40 tons of fuel in one direction and run the same distance back to port completely empty.

The props, at least in the recreational environment, were sized to achieve the 100% design rated engine rpm under a normal weight load at full throttle.

"Generators should be sized to accommodate the desired load to live a happy long life."

Nobody's arguing they shouldn't, but in the vast majority of "Real World" applications, unless a generator is powering a static load, this perfection is rarely achieved as loads can and do vary, often by a considerable margin.

Do you size a whole house off-grid or backup generator to run your AC's, electric water heater and electric cooking appliances or just the lights and convenience receptacles ? Is it always hot, are you always cooking ?

In theory you are 100% correct, but achieving what your theory prescribes can be challenging and this is Dave's dilemma.
How to size a generator to provide light duty use as a large screen display sign, and have the capability to provide power to other vendors and display loads during events.
The winning answer was provided by our greatly appreciated member "The Chicken" back on page # 1 of 4, in post # 4. 👍 👍 👍
Well except that's not an inexpensive solution and will extend any intended ROI by a bunch. ;)
 
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Dalton

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If he were only using 2 of 3 available

Here, this might help you understand how Dave has chosen to configure this generator to best serve his needs --- which are not 3 phase and he's not creating an unbalanced WYE phase.

View attachment 1433389 View attachment 1433390


here's the schematics/wiring diagram on it......looking for some higher quality ones to really see....
 

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Taboma

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not quite.....the engine speed is controlled by a knob outside of frame in the above picture, generally you load it up, the HZ gauge will drop below 60 then you twist the knob to bring it back up to 60. Let's say you're powering a large AC with a big compressor, you've essentially got to find a sweet spot, cause the HZ will drop slightly when the compressor kicks on, it takes some fine tuning, but you get rock solid reliability in return.

I've only worked on generators that were either military or civilian export models with no emissions, so I can't speak to whether Tier III gens suffer from wet stacking or not. But, I would probably take a emission-less export model and deal with the load banking over a model with emissions equipment.

A long time ago I took care of a gen that had a permanently installed load bank right in front of the radiator, that was kinda cool.
Best real world scenario would be a variable load bank, is that what you're referring to ?

With manual adjustment required for fine tuning AC frequency, this rather old-school mil-spec generator somehow doesn't seem to be a perfect fit for powering the electronics required to operate this LED sign truck.
Non-Mil-spec hardened, commercial microprocessor electronics, which I would think this system utilizes, are usually associated with invertor gens or larger, stable generators with more precise frequency control.

Reading some blurbs on a couple of off-grid living type forums provided an enlightening peak into what appears to be a growing common civilian application of these surplus MEP 802A (5KW) and the MEP 803A (10KW) generators.
I got a chuckle out of several that have purchased old electric ranges they're using as load banks, and one of the appreciated features is they're able to vary the load by turning on various combinations of burner elements. 😁 👍
 

Dalton

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Best real world scenario would be a variable load bank, is that what you're referring to ?

With manual adjustment required for fine tuning AC frequency, this rather old-school mil-spec generator somehow doesn't seem to be a perfect fit for powering the electronics required to operate this LED sign truck.
Non-Mil-spec hardened, commercial microprocessor electronics, which I would think this system utilizes, are usually associated with invertor gens or larger, stable generators with more precise frequency control.

Reading some blurbs on a couple of off-grid living type forums provided an enlightening peak into what appears to be a growing common civilian application of these surplus MEP 802A (5KW) and the MEP 803A (10KW) generators.
I got a chuckle out of several that have purchased old electric ranges they're using as load banks, and one of the appreciated features is they're able to vary the load by turning on various combinations of burner elements. 😁 👍


the load bank doesn't need to be variable.

I don't think the compressors in the window units pull enough amps to make the HZ dip. Generally, when you're powering sensitive electronics with a gen, the HVAC will be wired directly to the gen, but the electronics will be plugged into a UPS that keeps the HZ and voltage perfect.
 

Taboma

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here's the schematics/wiring diagram on it......looking for some higher quality ones to really see....
Thanks, the reconfiguration of the secondary transformer windings wye to delta to single phase, is what I'd assumed the selector switch was accomplishing, but wasn't able to readily find the drawings you did. 👍

Anyway, this has been a fun thread, my pony has been pummeled sufficiently
dead horse.jpg

and I still vote for the option posted way back in page 1, post # 4 --- as it solves everything by providing good clean stable power and will make the both the generator and electronics happy.
The only things that won't be happy are Dave's wallet and perhaps his extended sleeping arrangements on the couch. 😁;)
 

rrrr

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not quite.....the engine speed is controlled by a knob outside of frame in the above picture, generally you load it up, the HZ gauge will drop below 60 then you twist the knob to bring it back up to 60. Let's say you're powering a large AC with a big compressor, you've essentially got to find a sweet spot, cause the HZ will drop slightly when the compressor kicks on, it takes some fine tuning, but you get rock solid reliability in return.

I've only worked on generators that were either military or civilian export models with no emissions, so I can't speak to whether Tier III gens suffer from wet stacking or not. But, I would probably take a emission-less export model and deal with the load banking over a model with emissions equipment.

A long time ago I took care of a gen that had a permanently installed load bank right in front of the radiator, that was kinda cool.
A knob? That's a new one for me. All of the generators I've installed had precise frequency control, going back to the old Woodward analog regulators from the 80s and 90s.

Thanks for the info.
 

RiverDave

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the load bank doesn't need to be variable.

I don't think the compressors in the window units pull enough amps to make the HZ dip. Generally, when you're powering sensitive electronics with a gen, the HVAC will be wired directly to the gen, but the electronics will be plugged into a UPS that keeps the HZ and voltage perfect.

A UPS? We don’t have whatever that is.. 😳.
 

Dalton

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A UPS? We don’t have whatever that is.. 😳.


Uninterruptible Power Supply. A battery backup, and it keeps the voltage and HZ perfect, you don't 100% need one, but it's not a bad idea, keeps the power "clean". If the screen flickers at all it'll probably fix that. If you get one, make sure you put it inside the air-conditioned space. Not sure what size you would need- lots of info on the internet.
 

Willie B

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A UPS? We don’t have whatever that is.. 😳.

…If I read post 4 page one right…I wonder how many add on batteries would be necessary…for the added on inverter to read when it was time to put a load on the Gen…to charge the batteries…so unburned diesel doesn’t end up in the exhaust… and what would be drawing the charge out of the batteries…
or maybe I don’t know what I’m talking about🤷🏽‍♀️
 

Taboma

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A knob? That's a new one for me. All of the generators I've installed had precise frequency control, going back to the old Woodward analog regulators from the 80s and 90s.

Thanks for the info.
Freq control.jpg
 

Bigbore500r

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I will say with all of them plugged in the generator burns considerably cleaner as the exhaust smell disappears quickly.

So I think my game plan is to just run it as it is, but if we are going to have it at somebody’s house or near people, I will just plug-in a bunch of space heaters so that we don’t have to smell the exhaust.. ? Then once a week I’ll run like five or six heaters plugged in for an hour or two
This seems like alot of work, maintnance and wasted fuel / energy.

For shits and giggles - try plugging into somebodies predator 3500 or someting that sized, and see how hard it throttles it. If it's not working its balls off, your easy answer might be to just use the big diesel internal gen for big events when your gonna run lots of shit, and use the baby gen for normal use. Easy solution. And if the predator shits the bed for some reason you have the big diesel as backup.

Basically you'd be functioning the way most desert dry campers do. I run a smaller gen to rack up hours for low loads like lights and battery charging, and save the 5500 for bigger stuff. Saves a ton of fuel (and noise)
 

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…If I read post 4 page one right…I wonder how many add on batteries would be necessary…for the added on inverter to read when it was time to put a load on the Gen…to charge the batteries…so unburned diesel doesn’t end up in the exhaust… and what would be drawing the charge out of the batteries…
or maybe I don’t know what I’m talking about🤷🏽‍♀️

UPS are designed to have the batteries near 100% all the time so it's just like having a trickle charger on to charge them. They will not put any significant load to the generator. But I would either run UPS's or at least a power conditioner. He is running computers and high dollar screens off of an old generator. Maybe an inverter generator like the harbor freight 3500 or Honda 3000 would be a better solution, it will put out cleaner power.
 

Taboma

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Predator with 2 year HF warranty and send it!
Would seem likely potential negative with these smaller gens would be need for more frequent re-fueling. This means storing large volumes of a far more volatile fuel and a fuel delivery system to a generator not designed to accommodate it.
 

lbhsbz

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Would seem likely potential negative with these smaller gens would be need for more frequent re-fueling. This means storing large volumes of a far more volatile fuel and a fuel delivery system to a generator not designed to accommodate it.
Get a 30 gallon fuel tank and swap the hose to the carburetor...this would be the least hard thing to overcome
 

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What’s the oil change frequency on the predators or Hondas? With the mil gen you only have to shut it down every 300 hours for an oil change and service. I actually can’t remember if it’s 250 300 or 350 hours for the service but it’s in that range.
 

RiverDave

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Part of the reason I am so stuck on keeping the generator I have is the set it and forget it aspect.. meaning we don’t have to refuel every six hours etc..
 

Taboma

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Get a 30 gallon fuel tank and swap the hose to the carburetor...this would be the least hard thing to overcome
Gravity fed or how much head suction will a Predator Gen provide ? A Predator 3500 full running load is only 3,000 watts, so it would be running at 90% load.
Considering Dave's 2700 Watt load, and if I were sold on Predators --- I'd opt for the Inverter 4550, then it would be running at around 75% of full load and maintain more stable voltage when the AC's cycle.
I guess I'd estimate fuel burn at 75% load at or about .4 gal-hour.
 

Bigbore500r

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Would seem likely potential negative with these smaller gens would be need for more frequent re-fueling. This means storing large volumes of a far more volatile fuel and a fuel delivery system to a generator not designed to accommodate it.
There's 6 gallon extended run tank kits that hook to them. Its just a plastic fuel tank, but theres a million options to handle that.
 

Bigbore500r

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Part of the reason I am so stuck on keeping the generator I have is the set it and forget it aspect.. meaning we don’t have to refuel every six hours etc..
Yea, but you have to pull it out, hook load devices to it and run its balls off for 2 hours a week to keep it clean. Doesn't soundn like set it and forget it
 

Taboma

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Yea, but you have to pull it out, hook load devices to it and run its balls off for 2 hours a week to keep it clean. Doesn't soundn like set it and forget it
Not if he has a sufficient load, like the four 1500W heaters he purchased, that he can run 3 or all 4 of in unison with his display load.
 

Bigbore500r

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Not if he has a sufficient load, like the four 1500W heaters he purchased, that he can run 3 or all 4 of in unison with his display load.
If he's just gonna add devices until its pulling 10k watts all the time to make it happy, then i guess thats what its gonna be
 

Taboma

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If he's just gonna add devices until its pulling 10k watts all the time to make it happy, then i guess thats what its gonna be
Reading on forums of other owners of these surplus mil-gens, that seems to be the trade-off with this old-school, low-tech, rudimentary, but extremely reliable equipment. They're only happy loaded to the max. Dave's multiple heaters, so long as they don't burn themselves up, is a purely resistive load so doesn't reduce the power factor %, and serves as a variable load bank that he can add or deduct in 1,500 Watt increments.
Several off grid type just bought an old kitchen range and turn on or off different burners --- didn't mention if they cook on it while it served as a load bank. 🤷‍♂️
 

RiverDave

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Reading on forums of other owners of these surplus mil-gens, that seems to be the trade-off with this old-school, low-tech, rudimentary, but extremely reliable equipment. They're only happy loaded to the max. Dave's multiple heaters, so long as they don't burn themselves up, is a purely resistive load so doesn't reduce the power factor %, and serves as a variable load bank that he can add or deduct in 1,500 Watt increments.
Several off grid type just bought an old kitchen range and turn on or off different burners --- didn't mention if they cook on it while it served as a load bank. 🤷‍♂️

And ironically enough still get better gallons per hr then the small gas counterpart?
 

RiverDave

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I think that 600.00 load bank will fit in my electronics cabinet and I can just run it at the end of the day as needed or partial load continious? Need to see how much heat it’s putting out
 

Taboma

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I think that 600.00 load bank will fit in my electronics cabinet and I can just run it at the end of the day as needed or partial load continious? Need to see how much heat it’s putting out
Are you referring to the rack mounted 4KW on Ebay for $ 595 ?
That one isn't 240V, it's 208V. Which wouldn't make it compatible unless you changed your voltage configuration to 120/208 3 phase, 4 wire. This doesn't seem to be a compatible solution for your intended use, like using it on your home or RV as two examples.
 

Bigbore500r

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And ironically enough still get better gallons per hr then the small gas counterpart?
It's no secret that diesel fuel has more energy per gallon than gasoline. Thats the reason diesel trucks get better MPG than gas trucks .

A 7500kw diesel gen runs around .35 - .45 gallons per hour, yours is porportionately higher for a 10kw diesel gen.

Onan 5500 gasoline generators are around .4 - .8 gallons an hour depending on how hard they are loaded.

A typical 3000 - 4000 inverter gas gen uses .2 - .4 gallons per hour.
 

RiverDave

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Are you referring to the rack mounted 4KW on Ebay for $ 595 ?
That one isn't 240V, it's 208V. Which wouldn't make it compatible unless you changed your voltage configuration to 120/208 3 phase, 4 wire. This doesn't seem to be a compatible solution for your intended use, like using it on your home or RV as two examples.

Well I guess I need to find a 220 one then
 

Deano

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Not sure if it's been mentioned, have you considered a Lipo4 battery set up. I'm succesfully runing equipment in a van on 48 volts (400ah Lipo4 batteries to 110ac)
I consistently pull them down and recharge with a 48V 100amp alternator with great success. At +/- 3,800W. It will run for 5 hours without charging no problem.

You could build a 800ah 48volt system for about $6-7K. It will run your rig for 10 hours until you need to fire up the genset for charging.
 

Taboma

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Well I guess I need to find a 220 one then
There's a 7.5 KW military surplus one on that say ebay page if you keep scrolling. It's actually made to be mounted on the MEP804A or equiv. 15KW model, so it's fairly large and typical HD mil-spec.
The problem with this unit is that it's really not compatible with your 10KW, voltage system because it only offers two connection choices, neither ideally compatible with your system.

I only mention it as it's priced reasonably and you might be tempted to buy it.
 

King295

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I saw this sign truck rolling down the 405 on Friday afternoon with videos of hot chicks promoting a presumable porn site. My load was banked right then and there.


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