Cavitation Plate Question

[cj222]

Hi guys,

I have a question about cavitation plates. If a boat hull was originally set up with 3/16" aluminum plates and you want to switch over to 1/8" stainless plates, will that 1/16" difference create any issues being that the boat is recessed 3/16" ? Sorry if this is a dumb question lol. I am new to v-drives.

Thank you,
Nick

 

[BamBam]

Hi guys,

I have a question about cavitation plates. If a boat hull was originally set up with 3/16" aluminum plates and you want to switch over to 1/8" stainless plates, will that 1/16" difference create any issues being that the boat is recessed 3/16" ? Sorry if this is a dumb question lol. I am new to v-drives.

Thank you,
Nick

I would suggest filling the gap with 1/16" stainless in the recessed area to keep the plates true to the running surface. Hope that makes sense.

 

[Flat freak]

Coming from a race boat background, you should keep that transition seamless. Now, would you & your boat survive putting around the lake with a 1/16 inch step up? I do believe so. You didn’t mention what type of boat you’re asking about. To fill the recessed areas correctly the boat would have to be flipped & worked over a bit

 

[cj222]

I would suggest filling the gap with 1/16" stainless in the recessed area to keep the plates true to the running surface. Hope that makes sense.

Yes and thank you!

 

[cj222]

Coming from a race boat background, you should keep that transition seamless. Now, would you & your boat survive putting around the lake with a 1/16 inch step up? I do believe so. You didn’t mention what type of boat you’re asking about. To fill the recessed areas correctly the boat would have to be flipped & worked over a bit

Thank you for the reply! It is a '77 Howard 20ft gn hull. After talking with John Cogan I am just going to use 3/16" aluminum plate.

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

What changed your mind on material?

 

[Flat freak]

Thank you for the reply! It is a '77 Howard 20ft gn hull. After talking with John Cogan I am just going to use 3/16" aluminum plate. View attachment 1350588

Very cool boat, I had a chance to buy one five or six years ago. I didn’t and have been kicking myself in the ass ever since. Did it have all the hardware in it when you bought it?

 

[cj222]

What changed your mind on material?

Aluminum is easier for me to cut and machine.

 

[cj222]

Very cool boat, I had a chance to buy one five or six years ago. I didn’t and have been kicking myself in the ass ever since. Did it have all the hardware in it when you bought it?

Thank you! All I got with the boat was the v-drive, a rudder, prop shaft and prop, and a few pieces of cavitation hardware. I got a strut from a friend of mine and I machined the mounting plate to fit my boat. I also made a custom shaft log for the boat asl well.

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

Aluminum is easier for me to cut and machine.

Chicken!
lol

 

[cj222]

Chicken!
lol

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

If it is easy everyone would do it.......

 

[cj222]

If it is easy everyone would do it....... View attachment 1350855

I can do it, I made a replacement plate for a buddy's 21ft Howard out of stainless. I guess I am too lazy to make them for this boat and do the work lol even tho I have to make my stainless blast plate still

 

[BamBam]

I can do it, I made a replacement plate for a buddy's 21ft Howard out of stainless. I guess I am too lazy to make them for this boat and do the work lol even tho I have to make my stainless blast plate still

Make them out of Stainless. You will thank yourself for a little more work on the front end and much, much less work in maintenance, care and replacement. The stainless plates will look good forever. The aluminum plates will suffer from fading and electrolysis. I've seen your work and you won't be happy in a couple years with the anodized aluminum.

 

[cj222]

Make them out of Stainless. You will thank yourself for a little more work on the front end and much, much less work in maintenance, care and replacement. The stainless plates will look good forever. The aluminum plates will suffer from fading and electrolysis. I've seen your work and you won't be happy in a couple years with the anodized aluminum.

You're right and thank you

 

[cj222]

Make them out of Stainless. You will thank yourself for a little more work on the front end and much, much less work in maintenance, care and replacement. The stainless plates will look good forever. The aluminum plates will suffer from fading and electrolysis. I've seen your work and you won't be happy in a couple years with the anodized aluminum.

Alright you twisted my arm stainless it is!

 

[cj222]

@BamBam stainless plates cut and mocked up with floor Jack's

 

[BamBam]

Looking good

 

[cj222]

Looking good

Thanks bud!

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

You won't regret it....

 

[sintax]

Looking great man!

as others mentioned, fill the gap

Dont skimp on the rest of the hardware, check out Dan Bells Rayson, some call it overkill, i call it just right!

 

[cj222]

I decided to start with a 3/8" gap on the plates. Should be plenty with this shallow "V"

 

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

You will be so happy with the stainless especially when it comes time to clean them, My Dad has had stainless plates in his wood decker since the 60's and I had always ran aluminum and spent the time to keep them shinny... I built my Spectra and it was stainless no question. harder to work with and get drilled and shaped but they just look so much better. I am late to the party here, I have a bit of a step from the bottom of the boat to the plates, went a bit too deep with the router, I was guestimating for gel and paint thickness , its not much but my boats a slug so I guess it doesn't really matter

 

[cj222]

You will be so happy with the stainless especially when it comes time to clean them, My Dad has had stainless plates in his wood decker since the 60's and I had always ran aluminum and spent the time to keep them shinny... I built my Spectra and it was stainless no question. harder to work with and get drilled and shaped but they just look so much better. I am late to the party here, I have a bit of a step from the bottom of the boat to the plates, went a bit too deep with the router, I was guestimating for gel and paint thickness , its not much but my boats a slug so I guess it doesn't really matter



View attachment 1353575 View attachment 1353577 View attachment 1353578 View attachment 1353578

Bad ass! Nice work looks super clean! Yeah it is harder to work with but I'm taking my time drilling and counter sinking on the mill.

 

[cj222]

@74 spectra20 v-drive Should I add a second row of staggered bolt holes to secure these plates to the boat? I have plenty of room, the plates go under the boat 5"

 

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

For the life of me I cannot remember how I did that? I have to pull the boat out tonight, Ill look under and see. I am thinking I went one line of bolts. I know I went too Narrow on my prop wash plate but you have to use the boat to hurt it and mine just sits...

 

[BamBam]

@74 spectra20 v-drive Should I add a second row of staggered bolt holes to secure these plates to the boat? I have plenty of room, the plates go under the boat 5"

If you're thinking you should add a row of bolts, then you should probably add a row. That plate bends (flexes) it is't a hinge and your bolt holes are pretty far forward to keep the rear edge of the plate from pulling away from the bottom. The holes you have for the rudder stuffing box will not allow the center of the plate to flex the same as the rest of the plate right now anyway. Love the progress. The trailer and the tailpipes you just built are looking great as well. Keep up the good work. If I ever need a trailer I know where I'm headed.

 

[cj222]

For the life of me I cannot remember how I did that? I have to pull the boat out tonight, Ill look under and see. I am thinking I went one line of bolts. I know I went too Narrow on my prop wash plate but you have to use the boat to hurt it and mine just sits...

Lol, ok bud thank you

 

[cj222]

If you're thinking you should add a row of bolts, then you should probably add a row. That plate bends (flexes) it is't a hinge and your bolt holes are pretty far forward to keep the rear edge of the plate from pulling away from the bottom. The holes you have for the rudder stuffing box will not allow the center of the plate to flex the same as the rest of the plate right now anyway. Love the progress. The trailer and the tailpipes you just built are looking great as well. Keep up the good work. If I ever need a trailer I know where I'm headed.

Thank you for the compliment bud
OK, yeah I'm thinking I need to add a second row of bolts to keep the plate tight to the bottom as the stainless material is less forgiven than the original aluminum plates were. Thank you!

 

[cj222]

Added the second row of bolts holes

 

[cj222]

Working on the pad design. Dont mind my dirty hands lol.

 

[cj222]

Plate pads almost done. Just need to tap the holes.

 

[SpectraPat]

Those pads look awesome! Nice work Nick

 

[Boat211]

Super nice work on the pads.

 

[cj222]

Those pads look awesome! Nice work Nick

Thank you!

 

[cj222]

Super nice work on the pads.

Thank you!

 

[lenmann]

Awesome work on the whole deal here, and those pads, lots of handle turns in 12 of them!

Are you planning to use a pedal or linear actuator to move the plates? I was thinking the length of the pads will stiffen that 3/16" stainless even more than it already is and it might take some force to get them to bend in the short un supported zone between the transom and the pads. Just thinking out loud...not being critical.

 

[cj222]

Awesome work on the whole deal here, and those pads, lots of handle turns in 12 of them!

Are you planning to use a pedal or linear actuator to move the plates? I was thinking the length of the pads will stiffen that 3/16" stainless even more than it already is and it might take some force to get them to bend in the short un supported zone between the transom and the pads. Just thinking out loud...not being critical.

Yeah I was thinking that too lol not sure what setup I'm going to do just yet. Might have to pump up my left leg starting now

 

[cj222]

@lenand thank you for the compliment!

 

[rivergames]

Your kickin ass bud!!!!

 

[cj222]

Your kickin ass bud!!!!

Thanks bud

 

[Gone_Flat]

Lookin good sir !!!

 

[cj222]

Lookin good sir !!!

Thanks bud!

 

[sintax]

Added the second row of bolts holes View attachment 1354004

This is exactly how mine is, and how i'd recommend doing it.

 

[cj222]

This is exactly how mine is, and how i'd recommend doing it.

OK cool, I'm moving in the right direction haha

 

[cj222]

Well that was a lot of drilling and counter sinking into stainless lol

 

[Perlmudder]

That looks awesome! How did you measure and mark the plates for the pad mounting holes so that all the pads are spaced properly and all the holes line up?

 

[poncho]

Damn, nice work.

 

[Backlash]

Damn that's looking INCREDIBLE!!!

 

[cj222]

That looks awesome! How did you measure and mark the plates for the pad mounting holes so that all the pads are spaced properly and all the holes line up?

Thank you! So for the layout for spacing, I knew where I wanted them to be placed on the ends of each plate so I started with that. Then I marked the round bar where the turnbuckle would line up on it. Then I did my layout for turnbuckles on the round bar where they would fit spaced out symmetrically between the transom blocks. Then I transferred that mark straight down to the plates and marked them to indicate center of my pads.