87 Ford F250 feedback/ Yea or Nea Inmate Opinions Needed

[Willie B]

Suspension system is the big challenge on these .... weird sphere things.... a brake job is $20K if you can imagine lol

……

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Found a cool dude body/ paint guy in hood.... he yanked and banged out the bent bed... liked his technique. Additionally he advised me to get on this rusted roof before it eats through... even offered me to come use his equipment. So I'll be Sanding it down .... as always with me its a first so anybody wants to jump in and offer advice I'll take it. I have neighbors drill, steel wool and grit paper... so far. Thanks guys....

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Question for our resident mechanics… 87 460 gasser 91k miles… intermittent symptom … I’m sitting idling in driveway maybe 5 minutes and dies and will start back up… Im driving after its warmed a bit and stalls at stop unless I feather gas cause its a 5 spd… today Ive been doing 60 for 5 minutes and exit offramp and stalls when clutch engaged and rpms fall but fires right back up. I havent seen the BATTERY light come on…. as yall know Im no tech mechanic whatsoever … What are your thoughts fellas? I also should mention its very intermittent to the point that after it did all those stalling games early in the drive, it settled into around town normalcy in stop n go for rest of errands. Weird right?

 

[rrrr]

Question for our resident mechanics… 87 460 gasser 91k miles… intermittent symptom … I’m sitting idling in driveway maybe 5 minutes and dies and will start back up… Im driving after its warmed a bit and stalls at stop unless I feather gas cause its a 5 spd… today Ive been doing 60 for 5 minutes and exit offramp and stalls when clutch engaged and rpms fall but fires right back up. I havent seen the BATTERY light come on…. as yall know Im no tech mechanic whatsoever … What are your thoughts fellas? I also should mention its very intermittent to the point that after it did all those stalling games early in the drive, it settled into around town normalcy in stop n go for rest of errands. Weird right?

Your coil is going dead. Buy a replacement and rock on.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Your coil is going dead. Buy a replacement and rock on.

Appreciate that ... any chance you could be a bit more specific? Such as where is it located, what does it do kinda stuff....Remember you are communicating with a non tech guy new to "under the hood life" Thanks.

 

[Brian]

Question for our resident mechanics… 87 460 gasser 91k miles… intermittent symptom … I’m sitting idling in driveway maybe 5 minutes and dies and will start back up… Im driving after its warmed a bit and stalls at stop unless I feather gas cause its a 5 spd… today Ive been doing 60 for 5 minutes and exit offramp and stalls when clutch engaged and rpms fall but fires right back up. I havent seen the BATTERY light come on…. as yall know Im no tech mechanic whatsoever … What are your thoughts fellas? I also should mention its very intermittent to the point that after it did all those stalling games early in the drive, it settled into around town normalcy in stop n go for rest of errands. Weird right?

Maybe a tank of marginally bad gas?

 

[OLDRAAT]

Like rrrr stated, coil might be giving up or the ignition box. When it starts acting up, stop and see if the coil is real hot as compared to other adjacent surfaces. If so, might start with that first. The coil appears to be laying horizontal at the driver’s side valve cover. That's a pretty hot area and might be an issue especially if it's not mounted vertically??

 

[rrrr]

The coil is the round black cylinder on the right side of the intake manifold. It has a single wire running from it to the center of the distributor.

Cost: Nine bucks from Rock Auto

1984 FORD F-250 7.5L 460cid V8 Ignition Coil | Shop Now at RockAuto

Ignition Parts and More for Your 1984 FORD F-250 at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[rrrr]

Like rrrr stated, coil might be giving up or the ignition box. When it starts acting up, stop and see if the coil is real hot as compared to other adjacent surfaces. If so, might start with that first. The coil appears to be laying horizontal at the driver’s side valve cover. That's a pretty hot area and might be an issue especially if it's not mounted vertically??

Twenty jillion Ford engines have the coil mounted in that same place. It's fine where it's now located.

 

[OLDRAAT]

Good to know Ron.

 

[Willie B]

Maybe a tank of marginally bad gas?

… Thats about all I came up with… Bad gas… Maybe some water in it… Didn’t think of it possibly being the coil..

 

[rrrr]

And BTW polarity matters on the smaller wire connections. There's a + and - mark embossed on the coil next to the threaded stud. Make sure you reconnect those wires on the same studs.

 

[Todd Mohr]

Put this in your gas tank, most likely will solve your issue.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Twenty jillion Ford engines have the coil mounted in that same place. It's fine where it's now located.

Party Disclaimer....Great stuff Old Ratt, RRRR and welcome brother Brian.... I'll be under that hood by Friday and holler back.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

View attachment 1452192 Put this in your gas tank, most likely will solve your issue.

Sounds like my kinda solution thanks

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Your coil is going dead. Buy a replacement and rock on.

I'm learning to move slow on these Bricks.... they be 37 yrs old and everyones got a different experience with them though they are so much less complicated than todays stuff right.... Throwing parts as an early solution is looking like a common reaction... not saying you aren't spot on .... just collecting expertise from old school techs

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Maybe a tank of marginally bad gas?

Welcome Brian.... I live where the gasoline might be an issue.... Been here a year without issue but never know when you get a bad batch.... I filled up today so lets see... Thanks!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

@mash on it @4Waters etc.... I cracked up when I spotted this today filing up my gas tank...never noticed it before... apparently Ford suggest checking often too .... somehow I knew a couple of you guys might appreciate it ...

 

[mash on it]

@mash on it @4Waters etc.... I cracked up when I spotted this today filing up my gas tank...never noticed it before... apparently Ford suggest checking often too .... somehow I knew a couple of you guys might appreciate it ...

View attachment 1452524

So did you?

Dan'l

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

So did you?

Dan'l

Ha, oh yeah every week and so far no loss. Guess that 90K odometer is true mileage.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Rough morning for Fernando but pays to have a local mechanic that owes ya money .... turned out to be a simple clogged fuel filter... just tiny pieces of copper and hair like fragments.... easy peasy but Roadside Assistance/ Benitto got me for beer money lol

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

My father had an 1987 F250 single cab 4x4, 460 manual. This was the last year of the carb for this vehicle through Ford. When he sold it to a guy (Ford mechanic) it had 138k on it. A few years later the guy who owned it told my dad he had over 240k on it and never had a head off. Guy said it was the best truck he has ever owned.

Like others have stated, 1st gear was for pulling stumps. When my dad let me drive it he had me start in second.

Keep in mind my father was a freak about the mechanics of every vehicle he owned so it doesn't surprise me it ran so well. Not a lot of info but maybe it helps you out. Guess its all about how it was taken care of.

Going back through thread for some earlier knowledge and input and thought I'd tell ya its now been about 1.5 years and 3K miles and trucks been a dream machine. Putting a new mechanical fuel pump in now but otherwise rock solid and fun as all get out. Boy do I need that 2nd tank working though ha.... I never seem to pass a fuel station.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Not kidding...

I have one. Works great.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-xg300-portable-waterproof-and-dustproof-bluetooth-speaker-black/6509851.p?skuId=6509851

@rivermobster circling back through thread reminding me of some tech info I need. spotted your post on boom box and I actually grabbed yours and have enjoyed it these past 16 months. i actually don't use it in truck preferring the big block windows down sounds but love this thing in my house and outside in yard. Great recommendation!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

It's 2 bolts and if the gasket cost's more than $2 I'd be amazed. Mexicans in Mexico use rusty water instead of coolant, and since you're in mexico, you can do the same and spend that $10 on a 6 pack instead of wasting it on Fernando

Yaknow you may be right... my 71 yr old Mexican mechanic said he uses water only not coolant and he had some scientific explanation that I've forgotten but I think it was along the theory that coolants block up the radiator innards over time.

 

[lbhsbz]

Yaknow you may be right... my 71 yr old Mexican mechanic said he uses water only not coolant and he had some scientific explanation that I've forgotten but I think it was along the theory that coolants block up the radiator innards over time.

No, it has nothing to do with the radiator....it has to do with water is free and coolant is not. Plus they never fix anything good enough there for it not to all leak out in the next month so rust isn't a concern.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

No, it has nothing to do with the radiator....it has to do with water is free and coolant is not. Plus they never fix anything good enough there for it not to all leak out in the next month so rust isn't a concern.

JajaJa... cant argue the point

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Hey guys.... I'm beginning my paint project and will be removing the rust or prepping for either a patina as is cleared finish or Rustoleum Turbo rattle can in yard do it myself project. Question for you all is should I remove all this rust by hand with a grit # you can recommend or how? I have friend loaning two power drills that have steel wool attachments but frankly they didn't do much good on a test area so grit sandpaper preferred? Thinking once I take the rust off cab roof I'll seal it and do entire truck that way but open minded so far .... just need to act on stopping rust from crawling and leaking through roof. Thanks gang

 

[Orange Juice]

Hey guys.... I'm beginning my paint project and will be removing the rust or prepping for either a patina as is cleared finish or Rustoleum Turbo rattle can in yard do it myself project. Question for you all is should I remove all this rust by hand with a grit # you can recommend or how? I have friend loaning two power drills that have steel wool attachments but frankly they didn't do much good on a test area so grit sandpaper preferred? Thinking once I take the rust off cab roof I'll seal it and do entire truck that way but open minded so far .... just need to act on stopping rust from crawling and leaking through roof. Thanks gang

Watch a few DIY YouTube videos for that professional look.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Watch a few DIY YouTube videos for that professional look.

Ah yes us over 50 guys always forget about YouTube... I just love spending hours listening to all those guys who are now videotographers or whatever its called.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Bump on the "Cutting off under power challenge"..... So I had a new mechanical fuel pump installed but guess that wasn't the issue afterall.... Its still stalling randomly either at idle or under power cruising at 50 mph.... I think I'll be throwing parts at this like everyone on the Ford460 forum does ha. Next up I'll be looking into buying a Coil as @rrrr recommended. Hopefully our autoZone has one.... getting parts shipped down here just doesn't happen.... worse case I use a friends san Diego address and send a gal up across to grab it. I hate that border traffic game.... never know if its a 1 hour or a 4 hour wait.
EDIT; Just spent hours watching vids of guys with these OBS era trucks.... seems like these symptoms can be multiple part failures... 1. Coil as @rrrr suggested.
2. Ignition Control Module
3. Intake Fuel Pump

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Lil update on the "stalling Fernando" issue....

Had a Ford 460 forum dude point out I had my distributor

hose on incorrect intake nozzle on the carb....[These pics are before switching] so I switched em out sealing the opposite one as he instructed. I just fired it up and let it idle for 5 minutes and sounded real good with no stalls yet.... I'm on fumes and live out a long dirt road so gonna conserve fuel till I go to town in a few days. Fingers crossed... I have my doubts that all that stalling could be caused by such a thing but if @Backlash @rrrr @90 Laveycraft have opinions jump back in. Fascinating stuff with these old beaters.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Lil update on the "stalling Fernando" issue....

Had a Ford 460 forum dude point out I had my distributor View attachment 1479557 View attachment 1479558 View attachment 1479559 hose on incorrect intake nozzle on the carb....[These pics are before switching] so I switched em out sealing the opposite one as he instructed. I just fired it up and let it idle for 5 minutes and sounded real good with no stalls yet.... I'm on fumes and live out a long dirt road so gonna conserve fuel till I go to town in a few days. Fingers crossed... I have my doubts that all that stalling could be caused by such a thing but if @Backlash @rrrr @90 Laveycraft have opinions jump back in. Fascinating stuff with these old beaters.

So, vacuum line, thats fine and 100% not the stalling issue. You have an electrical gremlin...
1- Coil.
2-the ignition module.
3-bad wire connection, that elect tape mess by the distributor = 3 wires...
4- the choke + is wired to the coil

 

[90 Laveycraft]

So, vacuum line, thats fine and 100% not the stalling issue. You have an electrical gremlin...
1- Coil.
2-the ignition module.
3-bad wire connection, that elect tape mess by the distributor = 3 wires...
4- the choke + is wired to the coil

I'd, change the coil first and disconnect the choke from it for now.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

I'd, change the coil first and disconnect the choke from

 

[Backlash]

Thank you for the kind words my friend, but I think these other guys have a lot more knowledge and experience when it comes to this issue. I'm no certified mechanic! What little I do know is more Toyota and GM based...... I'm a little out of my realm with anything Ford. I'm still following a long as I'm always interesting what you're working on.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

I'd, change the coil first and disconnect the choke from it for now.

Is this the "Coil?" That black cylinder looking thing? And by the way what does that thing do? this definitely feels like an electrical Gremlin to me.... so I'll do some youTube Coil & ignition switch research just to educate myself before throwing parts at my tech guy again like I did with the fuel pump lol. By the way.... look at that black ribbed hose coming off said Coil/ black cylinder thing routing near oil dipstick ... I noticed a while back that it rested on the manifold and had melted through protective plastic sleeve... it didnt appear to have damaged the wire in it and I raised it off manifold to reduce future heat damage... could that be the issue? I see it runs out into and through the firewall....

 

[rrrr]

The cap on the right that is supposed to feed a distributor vacuum advance module with 3/16" hose has a split in it. That's a vacuum leak, and it'll affect driveability. If you find your distributor does not have a vacuum advance module to connect to it, replace the cap.

Your memory is failing. In this post made back in July I explained the vacuum advance was supposed to be connected to the port on the right side of the photo.

I thought you did that.

 

[rrrr]

Run a 3/16" hose to the right side (non-emissions engine) port on your carb.

This is another post I made in September after the one above. The port on the right is the correct one. Your forum bro is wrong.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

This is another post I made in September after the one above.

Ha.....I'd never argue regarding my memory whatsoever. Thanks i do recall your posts and great diagram here. Oopsy.... so got it sorted now... @90 Laveycraft says it wouldnt affect stalling issue so we're into electrical solutions currently.

 

[rrrr]

Your coil is going dead. Buy a replacement and rock on.

I made this post in November.

 

[rrrr]

Is this the "Coil?" That black cylinder looking thing? And by the way what does that thing do? this definitely feels like an electrical Gremlin to me.... so I'll do some youTube Coil & ignition switch research just to educate myself before throwing parts at my tech guy again like I did with the fuel pump lol. By the way.... look at that black ribbed hose coming off said Coil/ black cylinder thing routing near oil dipstick ... I noticed a while back that it rested on the manifold and had melted through protective plastic sleeve... it didnt appear to have damaged the wire in it and I raised it off manifold to reduce future heat damage... could that be the issue? I see it runs out into and through the firewall....
View attachment 1479661

That wire goes to your ignition switch.

 

[rrrr]

The coil is the round black cylinder on the right side of the intake manifold. It has a single wire running from it to the center of the distributor.

Cost: Nine bucks from Rock Auto

1984 FORD F-250 7.5L 460cid V8 Ignition Coil | Shop Now at RockAuto

Ignition Parts and More for Your 1984 FORD F-250 at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

A new coil is cheap.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

A new coil is cheap.

Awesome.... I do recall you mentioning the coil needing replacing. AutoZone here I come..... love an easy fix and that part looks real simple to bolt on.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

That wire goes to your ignition switch.

Ok.... Im gonna guess that the internal ignition wire was not fried then because my ignition system seems to be fine starting every time.

 

[rrrr]

Awesome.... I do recall you mentioning the coil needing replacing. AutoZone here I come..... love an easy fix and that part looks real simple to bolt on.

While you're there, buy a 3/16" vacuum cap. The one on the left port of your carb has a split in it, causing a vacuum leak. It's not big and probably won't make a noticable difference, but ya never know.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Awesome.... I do recall you mentioning the coil needing replacing. AutoZone here I come..... love an easy fix and that part looks real simple to bolt on.

Disconnect the wire to the choke, it should not get power from there. Just leave off for now.
These 3 distributor wire connections look real sketchy!!

 

[rrrr]

Ok.... Im gonna guess that the internal ignition wire was not fried then because my ignition system seems to be fine starting every time.

Your ignition switch does two things.

There's a +12 volt hot wire fed from the ignition switch fuse that passes +12 volts to the coil when the ignition switch is in the start and run positions. The +12 volt start wire from the switch sends +12 volts to the start solenoid mounted on the passenger side inner fender well when the key is turned to the start position. The large wiring from the battery +12 volt post passes through the solenoid to the starter when the key is turned to the start position.

The switch seems to be OK. If it had a fault, the engine would stall if you jiggled the key while the engine is running.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Your ignition switch does two things.

There's a +12 volt hot wire fed from the ignition switch fuse that passes +12 volts to the coil when the ignition switch is in the start and run positions. The +12 volt start wire from the switch sends +12 volts to the start solenoid mounted on the passenger side inner fender well when the key is turned to the start position. The large wiring from the battery +12 volt post passes through the solenoid to the starter when the key is turned to the start position.

The switch seems to be OK. If it had a fault, the engine would stall if you jiggled the key while the engine is running.

Just got a couple hours in watching Coil and Ignition Module training on YouTube.... tough finding vids for such older trucks but pretty much understand now. Thanks @rrrr & @90 Laveycraft I'll next hit AutoZone for a coil and I'll disconnect the choke wire. As for the Ignition Module it appears those often are the source of these stalling symptoms so if they have that part I'll grab one but my year is mounted below distributor and hard to get to so I'll have my mechanic do that if problem persist after Coil in. Later years Ford moved them way over to driver side fender well to reduce heat. Liking this education!

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Just got a couple hours in watching Coil and Ignition Module training on YouTube.... tough finding vids for such older trucks but pretty much understand now. Thanks @rrrr & @90 Laveycraft I'll next hit AutoZone for a coil and I'll disconnect the choke wire. As for the Ignition Module it appears those often are the source of these stalling symptoms so if they have that part I'll grab one but my year is mounted below distributor and hard to get to so I'll have my mechanic do that if problem persist after Coil in. Later years Ford moved them way over to driver side fender well to reduce heat. Liking this education!

Do coil first...module only if coil change doesn't fix. You also might have a loose connection in that red wire mess I mentioned.
Also, you have the fender mount module...not the distributor mount! I saw it in one of your pics pages back.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Do coil first...module only if coil change doesn't fix. You also might have a loose connection in that red wire mess I mentioned.
Also, you have the fender mount module...not the distributor mount! I saw it in one of your pics pages back.

Silver box, right side fender...