87 Ford F250 feedback/ Yea or Nea Inmate Opinions Needed

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Circling back after good coastal drive going 3.5-5K rpms.... started a bit rougher with vacuum hoses in place but cool with feathering gas/ clutch exiting garage.... warmed up similarly and idle smoothed out as prior to vacuums being hooked up. Performance seemed same.... few popping type backfires on lifting as decelerating off higher rpm runs.
Note of interest; Did have to give few more pumps on gas pedal to get it to turn over. prior it was 3 deep slow pumps and fired right up.

Feedback?

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

I was tinkering under the hood today and stumbled into this un-hooked device way back on passenger side up against the firewall. This arm was off the hook looking like it'd just become disconnected over time so I put them back as intended and learned its kinda neat how it functions. I'm curious what you guys think this does .... my hunch is it has something to do with the interior ventilation system cause it has a "thump" sound as if opening/ closing a vent and the cylinder part looks a lot like my electric choke that heats and cools causing a wire to turn. This also has a wire running to it.... any knowledge from you guys on what this thing does? Thanks as always fellas.....

 

[240Hallett]

Operates a door that changes the direction of heat in the cab. Move your heater control from dash to floor or defrost and see if it moves.

 

[Willie B]

… Not necessarily related to the question that you’re asking… but I see some pieces under the hood that look like they’re part of a factory air conditioning system… don’t see a compressor mounted to the engine, but… Was your truck originally a factory air truck

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… Not necessarily related to the question that you’re asking… but I see some pieces under the hood that look like they’re part of a factory air conditioning system… don’t see a compressor mounted to the engine, but… Was your truck originally a factory air truck

Cmon now Willie B you have got to know better than to ask my dumbass that. Lord knows how many folks have owned this 37 year old beast. Hell, I don't really know if the 91K miles is true but can tell you the clutch and brake pedals look unused as far as wear goes. I'll just assume you were flexing for some of our knowledgeble engine guys following

I will say that when I first saw Fernando the owner said he has the ac unit and just hasn't gotten around to putting it back on or on yet.... not sure why it was off unless it had to do with the tuning. I told him call me once its on. I don't use it often but blows cold when I run it.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Operates a door that changes the direction of heat in the cab. Move your heater control from dash to floor or defrost and see if it moves.

Cool. Thanks... that for sure explains that thump sound.

 

[73beast]

Operates a door that changes the direction of heat in the cab. Move your heater control from dash to floor or defrost and see if it moves.

This, inside air or outside air..

 

[Willie B]

Cmon now Willie B you have got to know better than to ask my dumbass that. Lord knows how many folks have owned this 37 year old beast. Hell, I don't really know if the 91K miles is true but can tell you the clutch and brake pedals look unused as far as wear goes. I'll just assume you were flexing for some of our knowledgeble engine guys following

I will say that when I first saw Fernando the owner said he has the ac unit and just hasn't gotten around to putting it back on or on yet.... not sure why it was off unless it had to do with the tuning. I told him call me once its on. I don't use it often but blows cold when I run it.

……lol… I forgot you’re living at the beach….So what do you need air conditioning for… When I lived aboard and hit all the beach areas up and down the coast in my 70 Torino convertible…it didn’t have air conditioning… When I moved back into the flatlands where it got hot… I hit the junkyards and got all the AC parts… The Torino then had AC …

… The guy you bought the truck from probably didn’t put the AC compressor back on because it might require a different mounting bracket than the original engine…I can’t remember if you had posted what the factory engine was…

… The real mechanic guys may not be posting about Fernando tonight because they may have been watching the debate …and some of them may not have known what total idiot that Waltz guy is… Or as he may be referred to south of the border…Waltz-ado???…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

……lol… I forgot you’re living at the beach….So what do you need air conditioning for… When I lived aboard and hit all the beach areas up and down the coast in my 70 Torino convertible…it didn’t have air conditioning… When I moved back into the flatlands where it got hot… I hit the junkyards and got all the AC parts… The Torino then had AC …

… The guy you bought the truck from probably didn’t put the AC compressor back on because it might require a different mounting bracket than the original engine…I can’t remember if you had posted what the factory engine was…

… The real mechanic guys may not be posting about Fernando tonight because they may have been watching the debate …and some of them may not have known what total idiot that Waltz guy is… Or as he may be referred to south of the border…Waltz-ado???…

Pretty sure the current 460 was original. But he did pull it to beef it up bored/ stroked etc

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Guys, heres a pretty informative answer from a Ford Big Block forum regarding connecting those two hoses onto carb discussed earlier:

pcv vacuum is something you should have, it evacuates excess crankcase pressure. Run without one long enough you'll start noticing leaks.... Aside from killing power. And vacuum advance helps economy and cleans up the exhaust.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Had my neighborhood mechanic Bonitto stop by today for Fernandos first oil change in my year ownership. i bought the 2/ 5qrt jugs of 15/ 40 and the filter for him. we warmed things up and he drained the engine to find what looks like around 2 frigging quarts in a block supposedly holding 6 quarts. now granted nobody ever can tell ya if that oil filter holds enough to effect total capacity right.... Bonitto was stunned looking at me saying "How long have you been running with no oil? I told him I have a garage leak pan under it and I'm not losing anything there.... I did hear some sounds one day in some hills and pulled over adding 2 qrts and the noises stopped immediately. He tells me you must be throwing oil under pressure at higher speeds and he climbed under carriage and took some pics... he thinks its coming from a bad seal where the motor meets the tranny. Heres some pics.... comments welcome as always.... I gotta say he cant be too sharp cause he insisted my 650 EdelBrock was only a 2 barrel so yaknow there is that to consider. He was quite adamant too ... the last pic is him buffing out the yellowd headlamps using brake fluid. I saw very little if any difference but will try again witha power buffer soon.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Also, you may recall I had an issue with my electric choke not working due to both hot & ground wires not secured ... well he tested that black wire and its hot while the negative he says is fine secured as is just by attaching at the carb. So we'll see soon if its functioning as morning cold starts become colder.

 

[TimeBandit]

FOTM

First. of. the. month.

check air pressure and oil / coolant.

let 'er leak, if there is no oil in the parking spot it's not that bad.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

FOTM

First. of. the. month.

check air pressure and oil / coolant.

let 'er leak, if there is no oil in the parking spot it's not that bad.

I tend to agree with ya.... but running the 460 with a capacity of 6 qts on only maybe 2 qrts shocked him... he said I was lucky I didn't destroy the engine. Maybe he's dramatic or maybe he's right.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

It blows my mind that simply setting ignition timing is a lost art.

I'm not talking about you, the current vehicle owner, I just mean in general.

When I started out replacing points in a distributor and setting carburetor idle mixture was an everyday thing.

But that knowledge didn't happen overnight and I don't know how I would explain it over the phone even how to do it. Much less email.

I'm sure YouTube has some great videos on it but even then experience counts.

I used my timing light on the job exactly once in the last 10 years. I used it more at home. most of the young guys don't even own a timing light.

just circling back now that Bonito was here today and when I asked him about setting the timing and if he owned a timing light he said, " I can do that by ear".... i watched him remove air filter and begin adjusting the two carb setting screws and then the idle screw. He's 71 so who knows what he does and doesn't know. In the end after playing about the engine area he changed oil/ filter and adjusted carb for $20 and a couple shots of cheap tequila.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

So all you have to do is take the fitting off of the carburetor where your fuel line is hooked up to make sure there isn't another fuel filter in there , the stock fuel pump doesn't have enough flow to pump fuel through two filters under a load.

We did clean the visible glass fuel filter right out in open engine area.... I forgot to ask mechanic to search in carb for another one... oopsy

 

[mash on it]

@HubbaHubbaLife -

I'd check it every tank full.
Get to know how much it uses.
I've run junk trucks all over hell and creation. Common theme, check the oil.
Not sure? Check the oil.
Really sure? Check the oil.
Checked yesterday? Check the oil.

Hope this helps.

Dan'l

P.S. Check the oil.

 

[4Waters]

@HubbaHubbaLife -

I'd check it every tank full.
Get to know how much it uses.
I've run junk trucks all over hell and creation. Common theme, check the oil.
Not sure? Check the oil.
Really sure? Check the oil.
Checked yesterday? Check the oil.

Hope this helps.

Dan'l

P.S. Check the oil.

I think after doing all that he should check the oil

 

[Gelcoater]

So Hubba.


If no one mentioned it?
Ya might want to check the oil on occasion.
It’s a Ford.
Not said deragatory. But they eat some oil.
I had a 460, I know.

Look into

And since all 460 are thirsty? Every time you get gas, check the oil again.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

@HubbaHubbaLife -

I'd check it every tank full.
Get to know how much it uses.
I've run junk trucks all over hell and creation. Common theme, check the oil.
Not sure? Check the oil.
Really sure? Check the oil.
Checked yesterday? Check the oil.

Hope this helps.

Dan'l

P.S. Check the oil.

Agree.... its the one thing you just don't wanna screw with. I did pull the weird dip stick so I can see what a full level actually looks like. So strange that that stick has shown over filled the entire year I had it. He climbed under and told me the aftermarket headers have crimped that dip stick sleeve which explains why putting stick back in the sleeve is so restricted.... hmmmm, I'm just gonna keep checking after my drives and see if stick even shows a drop off in levels. Remember we only got maybe 2 qts out of that drained engine. I'm gonna be watching that dip stick often cause at this point I don't trust it.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

So Hubba.


If no one mentioned it?
Ya might want to check the oil on occasion.
It’s a Ford.
Not said deragatory. But they eat some oil.
I had a 460, I know.

Look into
View attachment 1441509

And since all 460 are thirsty? Every time you get gas, check the oil again.

JaJaJa... yeah I'm getting everyones point loud and clear and I will be doing that often and thank you. Bonito also recommended I buy some STP oil additive to thicken up the 15/ 40 oil we put in and help reduce the leaking. He calls it like "honey" for the oil. I'll throw that in this week.

 

[OLDRAAT]

Get some Lucas Oil Stablizer is another option.

 

[Willie B]

….. 2050 Castro plus Lucas oil stabilizer…Or If the motor spins freely while cranking…I think I would use 50 weight Valvoline racing oil… Might not be available in Mexico though

… STP is fine for rear ends and Stick shift transmissions… But in engines it fills up the porosity in cylinder walls… All it does is make the oil thicker…

 

[TimeBandit]

No oil additives are needed. they won't stop the leak.

But they will keep proper lubrication from happening during cold start.

We use multi-weight oils for a reason.

Maybe a 1950s tractor motor but nothing built since the '80s needs any oil thickener.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

@Willie B @90 Laveycraft @TimeBandit .... not sure that will summon my Carb experts but thought I'd send you studs my latest Carb Choke update now that I have timing and vacuums behind me. First pic is this mornings cold start. I slow pumped one stroke to floor and turned ignition and fired right up. Maybe a touch

sluggish but didn't stall. Not that high 1K rpm that I had last winter where I'd back out of garage and just tap it and choke would come off but perhaps its the warmer 65 degree cold morning temps not our 50 degrees that comes soon. Second pic is after idling maybe 5 minutes. Thoughts?

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Get some Lucas Oil Stablizer is another option.

Coolio thanks!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

….. 2050 Castro plus Lucas oil stabilizer…Or If the motor spins freely while cranking…I think I would use 50 weight Valvoline racing oil… Might not be available in Mexico though

… STP is fine for rear ends and Stick shift transmissions… But in engines it fills up the porosity in cylinder walls… All it does is make the oil thicker…

Ok smart guy... so dummy that down a bit and rather than flex for the fellas who know what that means..... what does that mean for us learning types. ;} .... and thanks.

As for the comment about maybe MX doesn't have race products don't forget where the Baja 1K/ 500 etc etc etc are run.... I'll shoot some vids this winter of our local dunes where the off roaders hang out. Lotta Beaner Beef here it seems. Thinking it was last years Christmas day when I drove down with a six pack and sat on my tailgate watching all of em show up after family meals to run the dunes. I wasn't gonna take ole Fernando out there cause everytime a passenger slams my door some chunk of somethingor other flies off so why stress the old boy jumping and shit ha.

 

[Willie B]

.., I have used Lucas oil stabilizer in a couple of very high mileage old vehicles… I have no clue as to whether it did anything… I also have no clue as to weather It’s basically the same shit as STP…although it is not as thick

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

.., I have used Lucas oil stabilizer in a couple of very high mileage old vehicles… I have no clue as to whether it did anything… I also have no clue as to weather It’s basically the same shit as STP…although it is not as thick

No thoughts on that choke flap staying the same either cold or warm eh? I just looked ta those pics and they're identical

 

[Willie B]

Ok smart guy... so dummy that down a bit and rather than flex for the fellas who know what that means..... what does that mean for us learning types. ;} .... and thanks.

As for the comment about maybe MX doesn't have race products don't forget where the Baja 1K/ 500 etc etc etc are run.... I'll shoot some vids this winter of our local dunes where the off roaders hang out. Lotta Beaner Beef here it seems. Thinking it was last years Christmas day when I drove down with a six pack and sat on my tailgate watching all of em show up after family meals to run the dunes. I wasn't gonna take ole Fernando out there cause everytime a passenger slams my door some chunk of somethingor other flies off so why stress the old boy jumping and shit ha.

… Kind of all that it means is that I have used Castro 20-50 in most of my vehicles for years… Except the diesels …I noticed it’s getting a little hard to find at Autozone… It just has more viscosity/thickness. than most manufactures current recomendations … Current motors are built to closer tolerances than vehicles 40 years ago… So they can tolerate thinner motor oils…

… I would have to go back some and reread the part about you drove the truck for sometime with 2 quarts of oil in it and maybe a half a quarter or so in the oil filter… And I think it said it that the motor was making rattling noises… Not good at all… it is possible that you put some excessive wear on some internal components… In other words, made a high mileage motor out of it… I don’t know how many miles are actually on your motor but even if it had 80,000 to 100,000 miles on it…it should not be using 4 quarts of oil in whatever the time period was…
… and who knows what tolerances the guy that built the motor worked to…
… If it’s going to be an oil burner, just add oil… The object here is to keep the old girl running… As far as adding Lucas oil stabilizer… I’m assuming you’re just adding viscosity to whatever oil you are putting in… Kind of another part of the bottom line is if you have to use additives it means something may be excessivly worn ???…
… The 50 weight Valvoline racing oil is what I have used in my LS seven big block Chevy in my Sanger Runner bottom and also in the 406 Ford in my Hallet Flatty… Never had to add a drop… as far as it being available in Mexico… I thought about that as I was posting???…
… kind of tough having to try to make sense on a Monday..
… Now, hopefully the real guys will step in and give you an opinion that’s not coming from a guy that’s almost 79…

 

[Willie B]

No thoughts on that choke flap staying the same either cold or warm eh? I just looked ta those pics and they're identical

… The choke flap should close incrementally according to engine warm up… The purpose of the choke is to make the engine run, relatively smooth, even though it’s cold… The motor should not be stumbling and running rough just because it’s cold… On first startup… The choke should be almost closed, and that inturn will raise the idol of the motor… As the engine warms up, the choke will start to open up and the idol will go down accordingly…

 

[rrrr]

@Willie B @90 Laveycraft @TimeBandit .... not sure that will summon my Carb experts but thought I'd send you studs my latest Carb Choke update now that I have timing and vacuums behind me. First pic is this mornings cold start. I slow pumped one stroke to floor and turned ignition and fired right up. Maybe a touch View attachment 1441838 View attachment 1441839 sluggish but didn't stall. Not that high 1K rpm that I had last winter where I'd back out of garage and just tap it and choke would come off but perhaps its the warmer 65 degree cold morning temps not our 50 degrees that comes soon. Second pic is after idling maybe 5 minutes. Thoughts?

It's working correctly.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… The choke flap should close incrementally according to engine warm up… The purpose of the choke is to make the engine run, relatively smooth, even though it’s cold… The motor should not be stumbling and running rough just because it’s cold… On first startup… The choke should be almost closed, and that inturn will raise the idol of the motor… As the engine warms up, the choke will start to open up and the idol will go down accordingly…

Oh ok I got it now.... that forward flap should be closed when cold and opens as warms up to the final position it appears it stays in regardless currently. More to do obviously....

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

It's working correctly.

We seem to have two different opinions so far.... Im open to listening if you guys care to explain how/ why you have alternative understandings of that flaps function...

 

[rrrr]

I didn't notice it was at operating temp in the second photo. When's it's 60-65° outdoors, loosen the three screws around the diameter of the electric choke body. Rotate it until the choke butterfly is vertical. Tighten the screws.

Your choke is now properly adjusted.

 

[Willie B]

No thoughts on that choke flap staying the same either cold or warm eh? I just looked ta those pics and they're identical

… I just looked at the two pictures you posted of the choke positions… In the first picture, the flap is not vertical but getting there… The engine block and head temperature with a car sitting overnight… are relative to the ambient Temperature …the temperature outdoors… If it is real cold out.. that front flap will probably close all the way,…as the engine block and heads warm up that flap will open up accordingly… Full engine operating temperature… that flap will be vertical… If the choke is adjusted correctly… Adjust the choke first thing in the morning… On a pretty cool morning… Where you are… leave about an 1/8 inch air gap… You might have to do this a few mornings until you are satisfied that you have nailed it…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

I didn't notice it was at operating temp in the second photo. When's it's 60-65° outdoors, loosen the three screws around the diameter of the electric choke body. Rotate it until the choke butterfly is vertical. Tighten the screws.

Your choke is now properly adjusted.

Good explanation/ description right there... I can comprehend those instructions well based on other vids I've seen. Thanks.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… I just looked at the two pictures you posted of the choke positions… In the first picture, the flap is not vertical but getting there… The engine block and head temperature with a car sitting overnight… are relative to the ambient Temperature …the temperature outdoors… If it is real cold out.. that front flap will probably close all the way,…as the engine block and heads warm up that flap will open up accordingly… Full engine operating temperature… that flap will be vertical… If the choke is adjusted correctly… Adjust the choke first thing in the morning… On a pretty cool morning… Where you are… leave about an 1/8 inch air gap… You might have to do this a few mornings until you are satisfied that you have nailed it…

Sounds like you and @rrrr are cohesive now. I'll be on that today. PS, morning temps are say about 60 this week. 68-72 afternoon highs.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Ole Bonito returned today and got busy on watching the cold start carb/ choke and sounded great, choke definitely is active and I didnt have to do any feathering of throttle backing out... no stalling. Then Bonito said he wanted to work on the dipstick improper oil level issue. He climbed under throwing a flattened out old cardboard box down on the dirt road and called out to me he found a crimped dip stick sleeve.... thats explains why it was so tough moving that long ass wire down through there. He ran off to a contractor parts shop with 500 pesos [$25 usd] to cover gas and parts. I figured well shit there that day goes cause our buddy has an issue at the Casino on the slots ha. I was mistaken he just needed to find right parts so took a few stores to get them. He worked a copper pipe into the pan and shortened the existing long ass wire dipstick. I gotta say I am now impressed with the old Mexican dude. All in he spent two solid days and charged me 2000 pesos/ $100 all in. Now I can check it easily FOTM!

Heres a pic laying under engine looking upwards seeing that crimped dip stick sleeve up by headers curving around.
Followed by our master mechanic handling his craft.....

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Im on a forum consisting of only Brick Nose Ford pickups in year 87-91 and many cool topics come along... one I like is how many miles do these 37 year old vehicles really have on em.... really cool to see so many of these young bucks inherited their Bricks from pops in high school etc etc.... I havent asked anyone yet as to what is best way to tell.... I heard somewhere that since we only have 5 digits showing one tell is if the digits aren't perfectly aligned .... seems like all our bench seats are redone so upholstery ques are out.... now its about the pedal wear.... so took these on Fernando [PS my odometer is roughly 91K and numbers look straight for what thats worth]

 

[mash on it]

Im on a forum consisting of only Brick Nose Ford pickups in year 87-91 and many cool topics come along... one I like is how many miles do these 37 year old vehicles really have on em.... really cool to see so many of these young bucks inherited their Bricks from pops in high school etc etc.... I havent asked anyone yet as to what is best way to tell.... I heard somewhere that since we only have 5 digits showing one tell is if the digits aren't perfectly aligned .... seems like all our bench seats are redone so upholstery ques are out.... now its about the pedal wear.... so took these on Fernando [PS my odometer is roughly 91K and numbers look straight for what thats worth] View attachment 1443175 View attachment 1443176

While not a bricknose, but a '96, and a 7fuckin3, 625,000.
Had a customer that had a delivery van, 460 powered, that went beyond 600k. Phoenix to Prescott daily.
Check the oil.
When in doubt, check the oil.
Getting fuel, check the oil.
Odd numbered Wednesdays, check the oil.
Even numbered Wednesdays, check the oil.
Full moon, check the oil.
High tide, check the oil.
Blonde for the night, check the oil.
Brunette for the night, check the oil.
Eggs for breakfast, check the oil.

Or just check the oil.

Dan'l

Edit- Delo 400 15w40 in that flat tappet cammed push rodded big block. The most zinc to keep it alive.
"I put that shit in everything"

Conveniently in gallon jugs

 

[Willie B]

While not a bricknose, but a '96, and a 7fuckin3, 625,000.
Had a customer that had a delivery van, 460 powered, that went beyond 600k. Phoenix to Prescott daily.
Check the oil.
When in doubt, check the oil.
Getting fuel, check the oil.
Odd numbered Wednesdays, check the oil.
Even numbered Wednesdays, check the oil.
Full moon, check the oil.
High tide, check the oil.
Blonde for the night, check the oil.
Brunette for the night, check the oil.
Eggs for breakfast, check the oil.

Or just check the oil.

Dan'l

Edit- Delo 400 15w40 in that flat tappet cammed push rodded big block. The most zinc to keep it alive.
"I put that shit in everything"

Conveniently in gallon jugs

… Yes, indeed… Delo 400… great oil…Have used it in all my diesels… Unless I can’t find it… Then it is Rotella…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

While not a bricknose, but a '96, and a 7fuckin3, 625,000.
Had a customer that had a delivery van, 460 powered, that went beyond 600k. Phoenix to Prescott daily.
Check the oil.
When in doubt, check the oil.
Getting fuel, check the oil.
Odd numbered Wednesdays, check the oil.
Even numbered Wednesdays, check the oil.
Full moon, check the oil.
High tide, check the oil.
Blonde for the night, check the oil.
Brunette for the night, check the oil.
Eggs for breakfast, check the oil.

Or just check the oil.

Dan'l

Edit- Delo 400 15w40 in that flat tappet cammed push rodded big block. The most zinc to keep it alive.
"I put that shit in everything"

Conveniently in gallon jugs

Damn thats a lot of miles....I seem to have stumbled into a workhorse engine.... HaHaHa.... duly noted.... checking my oil! And yup 15/40 wt. Thanks.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Old vs new.... both F250s and those later ones are Beefy... gotta say ole Fernando felt a bit diminished but I know the 5 mpg squares us!

Oh and hey, I checked the oil for first time since new dipstick and sleeve installed... easy peasy now. Full.

 

[Willie B]

… I had an 89 F250 for probably four years or so… 4x4…7.3 diesel…no turbo…automatic…no overdrive… drove it from Northern California to Georgia with 4:10 gears… slept in the camper shell every night … Had a great time in Nashville …Picked up a day cruiser my sister had given me… The transfer case exploded on the way home… It wasn’t even in four-wheel-drive …There was always something going wrong with it… Cruise control… Numerous times… injectors…I did put about 80,000 miles on it… When it hit 212,000 miles… And had used its first quart of Delo 400 or Rotella… Whichever one I had in at the time… I sold it and bought my 12 valve diesel 97 Dodge…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… I had an 89 F250 for probably four years or so… 4x4…7.3 diesel…no turbo…automatic…no overdrive… drove it from Northern California to Georgia with 4:10 gears… slept in the camper shell every night … Had a great time in Nashville …Picked up a day cruiser my sister had given me… The transfer case exploded on the way home… It wasn’t even in four-wheel-drive …There was always something going wrong with it… Cruise control… Numerous times… injectors…I did put about 80,000 miles on it… When it hit 212,000 miles… And had used its first quart of Delo 400 or Rotella… Whichever one I had in at the time… I sold it and bought my 12 valve diesel 97 Dodge…

Yeah driving an average of hardly 3K miles/ yr helps on all this stuff with older vehicles I imagine. Im also considering a Rolls down here.... lots of em out of San Diego now for dirt cheap with low low miles..... it'd be cool driving such an outrageous vehicle down here ha. Just for shits and giggles.

 

[Willie B]

Yeah driving an average of hardly 3K miles/ yr helps on all this stuff with older vehicles I imagine. Im also considering a Rolls down here.... lots of em out of San Diego now for dirt cheap with low low miles..... it'd be cool driving such an outrageous vehicle down here ha. Just for shits and giggles.

…Do it…
… I almost bought one about 15 years ago… But it had a padded roof and I was afraid there might be rust under the vinyl or whatever that material is …Was going to put a big block Chevy in it… It was an estate sale and the car was dirt cheap…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

…Do it…
… I almost bought one about 15 years ago… But it had a padded roof and I was afraid there might be rust under the vinyl or whatever that material is …Was going to put a big block Chevy in it… It was an estate sale and the car was dirt cheap…

Challenge will be maintenance abilities due to electronics on era Im considering in 90s.... gotta identify a tech guy locally first. They always need love and dont like to sit for long periods in garages

 

[Willie B]

Challenge will be maintenance abilities due to electronics on era Im considering in 90s.... gotta identify a tech guy locally first. They always need love and dont like to sit for long periods in garages

… You are a smart guy… Even the earlier ones were maintenance nightmares… Which is why I was going to put a big block Chevy in the one I was looking at
… I don’t know what the later ones have in the way of suspension… But the earlier ones had something like Hydro pneumatic suspension, which made me contemplate putting coil springs in it…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… You are a smart guy… Even the earlier ones were maintenance nightmares… Which is why I was going to put a big block Chevy in the one I was looking at
… I don’t know what the later ones have in the way of suspension… But the earlier ones had something like Hydro pneumatic suspension, which made me contemplate putting coil springs in it…

Suspension system is the big challenge on these .... weird sphere things.... a brake job is $20K if you can imagine lol