87 Ford F250 feedback/ Yea or Nea Inmate Opinions Needed

[OC Mike]

Does that nut on the left in the picture, front right on the carb look loose?

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Heres a pic of where that live choke wire connects to coil... it connects on right side
View attachment 1396300 View attachment 1396301

Lets see if this earlier video shows that coil/ choke connection... it did briefly but I'll get a better one tomorrow showing where its attached to coil.

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Just drive it.

 

[TimeBandit]

The vacuum ports are all capped in that last picture.

Send it!

 

[90 Laveycraft]

The vacuum ports are all capped in that last picture.

Send it!

 

[90 Laveycraft]

View attachment 1396379

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… Don’t see how it could’ve legally passed smog in Ca… It’s that’s the way the vacuum was plumbed when you bought it…

Naw it didn't pass or even close. engine builder/ previous owner had a guy for cash. I wanted current tags for rides up to Cali. Down in Baja you see Cali tags expired 5 years ago.... cops don't care... but they do absolutely hunt Cali plated cars for roadside payments

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

View attachment 1396380

good pic expansion.... I actually found that rubber cap later sitting on manifold so that one in center is now capped as are two others left and right of it.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

good pic expansion.... I actually found that rubber cap later sitting on manifold so that one in center is now capped as are two others left and right of it.

As mentioned by someone a few back, connect that center carb port to the pcv valve on the left back valve cover...plug the little port on top of it also. Positive Crankcase Ventilation is good for your motor!!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Great pic.... engine seems to run great since I got it maybe 1500 miles ago. I'd still enjoy knowing what function these 3 ports on carb serve if anyone wants to inform me in very simplest non tech terms. thanks.... And also that 'port" sitting back on valve cover passenger side not attached or capped; whats that do as well? Thanks guys. We're about wrapped on this topic ... just a couple questions and that'll do for now. Happy Fourth Merica!

 

[90 Laveycraft]

As mentioned by someone a few back, connect that center carb port to the pcv valve on the left back valve cover...plug the little port on top of it also. Positive Crankcase Ventilation is good for your motor!!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

As mentioned by someone a few back, connect that center carb port to the pcv valve on the left back valve cover...plug the little port on top of it also. Positive Crankcase Ventilation is good for your motor!!

Thanks... what will that do to effect/ benefit engine? Just curious as a thirst for knowledge type.... its been running real strong for 1500 miles since buying it but if increases efficiencies I'm all in.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Thanks... what will that do to effect/ benefit engine? Just curious as a thirst for knowledge type.... its been running real strong for 1500 miles since buying it but if increases efficiencies I'm all in.

Understanding The Importance Of Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) In Modern Automotive Engines

The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is a crucial component in modern engines. This system aids in maintaining engine efficiency, reducing emissions, and ensuring the longevity of the powertrain.

www.innova.com

 

[rrrr]

Great pic.... engine seems to run great since I got it maybe 1500 miles ago. I'd still enjoy knowing what function these 3 ports on carb serve if anyone wants to inform me in very simplest non tech terms. thanks.... And also that 'port" sitting back on valve cover passenger side not attached or capped; whats that do as well? Thanks guys. We're about wrapped on this topic ... just a couple questions and that'll do for now. Happy Fourth Merica!

Read my post #447.

Also check the photo in post #456. The cap on the right that is supposed to feed a distributor vacuum advance module with 1/4" hose has a split in it. That's a vacuum leak, and it'll affect driveability. If you find your distributor does not have a vacuum advance module to connect to it, replace the cap.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Understanding The Importance Of Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) In Modern Automotive Engines

The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is a crucial component in modern engines. This system aids in maintaining engine efficiency, reducing emissions, and ensuring the longevity of the powertrain.

www.innova.com

Well that certainly was well written... even I understood that. Thanks.... easy fix and maybe it'll reduce some of the fumes ole Fernando puts out in the cab while at standstills idling. When I first got truck I thought it had an exhaust leak but its an all new system down there leak free. Plus anything that gives it an extra mpg is great

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

There's nothing wrong with that coil location. Yeah, they get hot, but millions of Fords have gone hundreds of millions of miles without it failing.

There should be a 3/8" vent type hose from the PCV on the valve cover to a vacuum port on the intake manifold or carb base. You can plug the smaller connector on the PCV valve, it's used for pollution controls you don't have on the engine. It's been so long since I had a vehicle with an Edelbrock carb I barely remember which port it should connect to, it's the biggest one in the middle. Connect the smaller one on the right to the distributor vacuum port, if it has one. I'm not sure about that.

You figured out the 12V power to the choke. I don't recall if the choke mechanism is grounded, making a complete circuit. In the past have run a short ground wire from the connector on the choke body to a carb stud, using a 5/16" ring terminal, to insure a good ground.

Your high idle issue sounds like maybe the choke warmup linkage and cam is balky or the spring isn't doing its job. I use a little white lithium lube spray on that sort of stuff. It won't gum up and attract dirt like WD-40 will.

OK got it. Great info thanks for helping out on thread. RDP Sux

 

[Willie B]

Well that certainly was well written... even I understood that. Thanks.... easy fix and maybe it'll reduce some of the fumes ole Fernando puts out in the cab while at standstills idling. When I first got truck I thought it had an exhaust leak but its an all new system down there leak free. Plus anything that gives it an extra mpg is great

… if your motor has any blow by at all… That is probably what the fumes were getting into the cab of the truck. Hence the need for the PCV valve to be hooked up to the big center port at the bottom of the front of the carb…. Blow by is when compression leaks by the rings and gets into the crank case…(the oil pan)..and every where else in the oiling system… The port on the bottom of the carb sucks the fumes from the PCV valve, which is a one-way valve… back through the induction system of the motor… In other words those fumes get burned again and exit through the exhaust…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… if your motor has any blow by at all… That is probably what the fumes were getting into the cab of the truck. Hence the need for the PCV valve to be hooked up to the big center port at the bottom of the front of the carb…. Blow by is when compression leaks by the rings and gets into the crank case…(the oil pan)..and every where else in the oiling system… The port on the bottom of the carb sucks the fumes from the PCV valve, which is a one-way valve… back through the induction system of the motor… In other words those fumes get burned again and exit through the exhaust…

Very well said thank you. I understand what that vacuum does now! Someone on the Ford 460 forum suggested I run a small hose from the larger PVC opening and cap off the smaller one. He said that hose would then connect to the center [larger] opening on the carb as you stated. I'm definitely going to do that because it sounds as if It'll reduce fumes and just help engine out. Good stuff, thanks!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Bump.... So did some additional research under hood last couple days investigating these PVC vacuum & Choke issues. I had my Mexican 71 yr old mechanic present and learned maybe he doesn't have all the answers afterall. I cold started and we watched the carb/ choke opening at top of carb with air filter off. It idles fine now that he has those screws dialed in but as it warmed up that carb opening didn't open more than it was at cold. It sits pretty much wide open all the way through warm up period. So I'm guessing the choke isn't functioning at all. It only has a hot wire attached and the ground terminal has nothing attached yet so its not a closed circuit. I felt the electronic choke casing and it never increased in temp and from what I've heard/ read online it needs to warm up and will get hot to touch expanding that internal wire coil. So its still a mystery how that choke worked so well in our 45 degree morning startups this past winter. Unless that ground wire simply miraculously fell off on both ends to pavement, ha. So solution is easy; just connect a ground wire and see if choke begins to heat up and function. Now to the PVC vacuum issue.... the Mexi guy was saying I need to attach the pvc hose from valve cover outlet to an air filter hole that he showed me when removing filter there are two pre stamped punchouts where it can connect.... but all other data says take that new hose to the center knob at lower part of carb. See below.... I've already got a breather on driver side valve cover to all good there. Think I'm making progress..... comments/ input/ opinions welcomed as usual fellas

 

[TimeBandit]

A picture of the top of the carburetor cold in the morning with the air cleaner lid off (after you press the gas pedal slowly to the floor once to "set" the choke) please.

Then another picture after you drive it 5 miles to see what "hot" looks like.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Bump.... So did some additional research under hood last couple days investigating these PVC vacuum & Choke issues. I had my Mexican 71 yr old mechanic present and learned maybe he doesn't have all the answers afterall. I cold started and we watched the carb/ choke opening at top of carb with air filter off. It idles fine now that he has those screws dialed in but as it warmed up that carb opening didn't open more than it was at cold. It sits pretty much wide open all the way through warm up period. So I'm guessing the choke isn't functioning at all. It only has a hot wire attached and the ground terminal has nothing attached yet so its not a closed circuit. I felt the electronic choke casing and it never increased in temp and from what I've heard/ read online it needs to warm up and will get hot to touch expanding that internal wire coil. So its still a mystery how that choke worked so well in our 45 degree morning startups this past winter. Unless that ground wire simply miraculously fell off on both ends to pavement, ha. So solution is easy; just connect a ground wire and see if choke begins to heat up and function. Now to the PVC vacuum issue.... the Mexi guy was saying I need to attach the pvc hose from valve cover outlet to an air filter hole that he showed me when removing filter there are two pre stamped punchouts where it can connect.... but all other data says take that new hose to the center knob at lower part of carb. See below.... I've already got a breather on driver side valve cover to all good there. Think I'm making progress..... comments/ input/ opinions welcomed as usual fellas

View attachment 1398157

100% PCV valve to carb, not an air cleaner port.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

A picture of the top of the carburetor cold in the morning with the air cleaner lid off (after you press the gas pedal slowly to the floor once to "set" the choke) please.

Then another picture after you drive it 5 miles to see what "hot" looks like.

Will do Friday. Good idea. I guess that'll show what that choke is/ is not doing right?

 

[Willie B]

Will do Friday. Good idea. I guess that'll show what that choke is/ is not doing right?

… With the air cleaner that you are using …if you were to run the PCV valve up to the air cleaner and a vacuum hose from the big port at the bottom center of the carburetor,…to the aircleaner…it would not do much..,as that air cleaner will not pull vacuum… like a direct vacuum hose from the large port at the bottom of the carb to the PCV valve would…
…I have seen Ford factory air, cleaners, where that theory would probably work… too long of an explanatnation though…

… I could be wrong… But I seem to remember that the big port at the bottom of the carburetor does not draw vacuum at idle… Maybe a tiny little bit… I think the vacuum increases as the RPM increases… …Hold your thumb over the big vacuum port and increase the RPM with the carburator linkage with your other hand… And you will know for sure… Been a long time since I messed with any of this stuff

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… With the air cleaner that you are using …if you were to run the PCV valve up to the air cleaner and a vacuum hose from the big port at the bottom center of the carburetor,…to the aircleaner…it would not do much..,as that air cleaner will not pull vacuum… like a direct vacuum hose from the large port at the bottom of the carb to the PCV valve would…
…I have seen Ford factory air, cleaners, where that theory would probably work… too long of an explanatnation though…

… I could be wrong… But I seem to remember that the big port at the bottom of the carburetor does not draw vacuum at idle… Maybe a tiny little bit… I think the vacuum increases as the RPM increases… …Hold your thumb over the big vacuum port and increase the RPM with the carburator linkage with your other hand… And you will know for sure… Been a long time since I messed with any of this stuff

Yep, that makes sense regarding this style air filter and the PVC connection. I'll run it to larger center carb port as recommended by everyone I heard back from. Curious to watch the choke function in video but I'm 98% sure that its just not working at all.... Its got no juice yet. Good to note that the engine apparently doesn't need a choke due to our warm climate now at around 60 in mornings. It was as low as 45 in winter months.

 

[TimeBandit]

Yep, that makes sense regarding this style air filter and the PVC connection. I'll run it to larger center carb port as recommended by everyone I heard back from. Curious to watch the choke function in video but I'm 98% sure that its just not working at all.... Its got no juice yet. Good to note that the engine apparently doesn't need a choke due to our warm climate now at around 60 in mornings. It was as low as 45 in winter months.

To be clear, the power wire to the choke runs a heater that "turns off" the choke. Temperature alone "turns it on".

The bi-metallic spring inside the round black housing closes "turns on" the choke with cold temperature. (after you press the gas pedal to the floor slowly)

12 volt power then slowly heats up the bi-metallic spring and "turns it off" allowing the idle speed to decrease via the linkage.

 

[Willie B]

… just saw this post in the thread… This is Gospel… But those phonelic black choke housings have been known to come loose… Loose screws, etc.… Take the air cleaner off and with your fingers and thumb lightly try to turn the black choke housing… If it won’t twist the choke has probably not come out of adjustment… But if it does twist, follow the instructions from what the gentleman posted … Great… Now I can’t find the very informative information posted or who posted it… I will keep looking

… I found it… Mash on it posted it…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Ok guys I took several pics & vids this morning and I'll load em starting with cold ones first and finishing with warm after a run. Comments to get this choke performing are welcome of course......

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Let me try this again ..... these should be next vids as engine warms

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

And finally after a run around the hood heres what

warmed up carb looks like......

 

[Willie B]

… what did your temperature gauge in the truck say… After running around the hood …If you got the motor thoroughly warmed up the choke should’ve been opened not almost closed

 

[90 Laveycraft]

And finally after a run around the hood heres what
View attachment 1399963
warmed up carb looks like......

Post 456 showed a bad vacuum plug on carb RF side...video shows it still there and prob leaking..

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… what did your temperature gauge in the truck say… After running around the hood …If you got the motor thoroughly warmed up the choke should’ve been opened not almost closed

It sat right at midpoint like it always does.... even when sitting idling at border for 3 hours. I'm a bit confused, is the opening of the carb closest to front the choke flap that should close when warm? I didn't play around with that rear flap at all cause I figured front flap was all I needed to mess with.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Post 456 showed a bad vacuum plug on carb RF side...video shows it still there and prob leaking.. View attachment 1400031

I know some of you are interested in attaching and plugging these vacuum lines. I've watched several videos and understand what they do. I'll get on that next week. For now its all about my curiousities regarding the choke operation and position. Thanks.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

I know some of you are interested in attaching and plugging these vacuum lines. I've watched several videos and understand what they do. I'll get on that next week. For now its all about my curiousities regarding the choke operation and position. Thanks.

You should actually forget that choke for now...drive ability, idle, and carb/choke adjustment can not be corrected with vacuum leaks....get your carb right- then deal with the choke!

 

[4Waters]

I know some of you are interested in attaching and plugging these vacuum lines. I've watched several videos and understand what they do. I'll get on that next week. For now its all about my curiousities regarding the choke operation and position. Thanks.

You can see the split in it, you definitely need to fix that

 

[Willie B]

I know some of you are interested in attaching and plugging these vacuum lines. I've watched several videos and understand what they do. I'll get on that next week. For now its all about my curiousities regarding the choke operation and position. Thanks.

… Your truck idles like it does have a vacuum leak… Do what 4 Waters says… Go to Autozone and get a new dealio plug thing and replace the one thats cracked and most likely leaking Start there that’s really easy

 

[TimeBandit]

I'm not sure how far the choke blade is supposed to open, but I think a bit more, as in vertical when hot.

The blade over the rear / secondaries is not the issue.

And it seems you are not getting a nice high idle cold... the fast idle cam should move when the choke blade closes to bump it up.

Methinks the large center port should be a 3/8" hose to the large port on the pcv valve.

The smaller port to the right of it may be ported vacuum for the distributor? not sure, some testing needs to be done.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

You can see the split in it, you definitely need to fix that

View attachment 1400061

Ok .... AutoZone here I come. I hope they have both the rubber caps and I'll get that hose for PVC too while there. Fingers crossed they have em.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

I'm not sure how far the choke blade is supposed to open, but I think a bit more, as in vertical when hot.

The blade over the rear / secondaries is not the issue.

And it seems you are not getting a nice high idle cold... the fast idle cam should move when the choke blade closes to bump it up.

Methinks the large center port should be a 3/8" hose to the large port on the pcv valve.

The smaller port to the right of it may be ported vacuum for the distributor? not sure, some testing needs to be done.

Good call.... I was just gonna ask what size hose and think others have said 3/8" as well. Remember the echoke isn't working presently due to not being grounded yet. My little list is growing but all really simple stuff which suits me just fine.

Yup I caught that guys vid also... i've been on YouTube learning a lot about this Edelbrock carb

 

[Willie B]

It sat right at midpoint like it always does.... even when sitting idling at border for 3 hours. I'm a bit confused, is the opening of the carb closest to front the choke flap that should close when warm? I didn't play around with that rear flap at all cause I figured front flap was all I needed to mess with.

… When the engine is fully warmed that butterfly/flap or whatever you wanna call it in the front is supposed to be all the way open… when the engine is cold that butterfly is supposed to be almost to all the way closed.., The butterfly will slowly open as that spring/coil in the choke assembly heats up.., Remember, it is possible that the choke assembly does not need a ground wire as it may be grounding through the carburetor…(I do not know that to be gospel though)

… Also…by driving it around with the engine warmed and that butterfly almost closed your screwing up your fuel to air mixture… Could have been some of your engine, running rough issues…

… Need to find somebody that can loosen the screws on the choke assembly and twist the black plastic/phonelic thing to where the butterfly is almost closed with the engine cold…maybe even all the way closed… Start the motor let the engine warm up by itself and make sure that the butterfly ends up straight up and down.., In other words all the way opened…and is not closed at all when the engine is fully warmed…

… You are learning slowly… you’re a smart guy… you might even try adjusting the choke yourself… Play with it till the flap is closed with the engine cold,…and flap all the way open with the engine fully warmed…

.., Simple… Engine cold choke closed… Engine warm choke open…
… Kind of like a chick

… First things first… Replace that rubber cap on the small vacuum port on the front of the carburetor… Not sure at what point in operation you have no vacuum to full vacuum there…So cap that off first… I can’t remember if that small port is supposed to go to the vacuum advance on the distributor…

… Do not attempt to adjust the butterfly on the back of the carburetor… that is called.the secondaries back there… when you are accelerating the primaries open up first… Look down in the carburetor there are two sets of butterflies down there…one set in the front…one set in the back…
…If you are accelerating hard and the engine needs more fuel. The secondaries start opening and that big flap on the top in the back will open…by engine vacuum…
.., Again…look down in the carburetor..: there are butterflies at the bottom of the carburetor… Two in the front two in the back… Normal acceleration just the front open… Hard acceleration all four open… and your wallet opens…

… Your Edelbrock carburetor is really fairly simple… Not as simple as Holleys… as Edelbrocks are a little more refined… Those carburetors started out as “Carter AFB’s”…Edelbrock bought the patents from Carter..:and they have been marketing them quite successfuly for a very long time… Under the Edelbrock name…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… when her engine is warm that butterfly/flap or whatever you wanna call it is supposed to be all the way open… when the engine is cold that butterfly is supposed to be almost all the way closed.., The butterfly will slowly open as that spring/coil in the choke assembly heats up.., Remember, it is possible that the choke assembly does not need a ground wire as it may be grounding through the carburetor…(I do not know that to be gospel though)

… also, by driving it around with the engine warmed and that butterfly almost closed your screwing up your fuel to air mixture… Could have been some of your engine, running rough issues…

… Need to find somebody that can loosen the screws on the choke assembly and twist the black plastic/phonelic thing to where the butterfly it is closed with the engine cold…maybe even all the way closed… Start the motor let the engine warm up by itself and make sure that the butterfly ends up straight up and down.., In other words all the way opened…and is not closed at all when the engine is fully warmed…

… You are learning slowly… you’re a smart guy you might even try adjusting the choke yourself… Let us know how that works out for you..,

.., Simple… Engine cold choke closed… Engine warm choke open…
… Kind of like a chick

… First things first… Replace that rubber cap on the small vacuum port on the front of the carburetor… Not sure at what point in operation you have no vacuum to full vacuum ..: So cap that off first… I can’t remember if that small port is supposed to go to the vacuum advance on the distributor…

… Do not attempt to adjust the butterfly on the back of the carburetor… that is called.the secondaries back there… when you are accelerating the primaries open up first… If you are accelerating hard and the engine needs more fuel. The secondaries start opening and that big flap on the top in the back will open….
.., Look down in the carburetor there are butterflies at the bottom of the carburetor… Two in the front two in the back… Normal acceleration just the front open… Hard acceleration all four open…

Cool I'm following all that....good descriptive writing helped.... I watched some vids on adjusting that choke casing and I can handle that mechanically.

 

[Willie B]

Cool I'm following all that....good descriptive writing helped.... I watched some vids on adjusting that choke casing and I can handle that mechanically.

… I am positive you can handle it … Loosen the three screws… Not too far… Need a little bit of pressure on the black thing… So it will stay in place as you play with the adjustment…
… Hard part is if you don’t get it right the first time… You’ve got to wait till the engine cools all the way down… to try it again… Like maybe the next morning

 

[Willie B]

… I really don’t know if taking a couple of hits offa joint would be a good idea or a bad idea before getting into the adjusting the choke deal…

 

[rrrr]

Bump.... So did some additional research under hood last couple days investigating these PVC vacuum & Choke issues. I had my Mexican 71 yr old mechanic present and learned maybe he doesn't have all the answers afterall. I cold started and we watched the carb/ choke opening at top of carb with air filter off. It idles fine now that he has those screws dialed in but as it warmed up that carb opening didn't open more than it was at cold. It sits pretty much wide open all the way through warm up period. So I'm guessing the choke isn't functioning at all. It only has a hot wire attached and the ground terminal has nothing attached yet so its not a closed circuit. I felt the electronic choke casing and it never increased in temp and from what I've heard/ read online it needs to warm up and will get hot to touch expanding that internal wire coil. So its still a mystery how that choke worked so well in our 45 degree morning startups this past winter. Unless that ground wire simply miraculously fell off on both ends to pavement, ha. So solution is easy; just connect a ground wire and see if choke begins to heat up and function. Now to the PVC vacuum issue.... the Mexi guy was saying I need to attach the pvc hose from valve cover outlet to an air filter hole that he showed me when removing filter there are two pre stamped punchouts where it can connect.... but all other data says take that new hose to the center knob at lower part of carb. See below.... I've already got a breather on driver side valve cover to all good there. Think I'm making progress..... comments/ input/ opinions welcomed as usual fellas

View attachment 1398157

On my '66 Ford running a 352 FE, it's plumbed like your diagram. I have the same Edelbrock air filter assembly. One valve cover outlet is just a vent running to the air filter base. The other side has a PCV valve, and that's routed to a fitting on the intake manifold, basically the same effect as if it was connected to the fitting on the carburetor base.

That's the correct arrangement.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

On my '66 Ford running a 352 FE, it's plumbed like your diagram. I have the same Edelbrock air filter assembly. One valve cover outlet is just a vent running to the air filter base. The other side has a PCV valve, and that's routed to a fitting on the intake manifold, basically the same effect as if it was connected to the fitting on the carburetor base.

That's the correct arrangement.

Thanks. just a quick question ... I noticed my PVC thingamagadget coming out of the passenger side valve cover has two exits. I understand what the larger one does and I'll run a hose to the center nozzle at the carb to recirculate blow by gases.... my question is what does that smaller outlet do and should i simply buy a rubble plug for that?

 

[rrrr]

Thanks. just a quick question ... I noticed my PVC thingamagadget coming out of the passenger side valve cover has two exits. I understand what the larger one does and I'll run a hose to the center nozzle at the carb to recirculate blow by gases.... my question is what does that smaller outlet do and should i simply buy a rubble plug for that?

Plug it. I mentioned that a couple of pages ago. That fitting was meant for a later vehicle with additional smog equipment, your truck doesn't have it installed.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Plug it. I mentioned that a couple of pages ago. That fitting was meant for a later vehicle with additional smog equipment, your truck doesn't have it installed.

Correct!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Plug it. I mentioned that a couple of pages ago. That fitting was meant for a later vehicle with additional smog equipment, your truck doesn't have it installed.

Beautiful... thanks!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

"This bad ass F250 shits n hits!!!!"

"There’s not another truck of any brand built and running and looking as bad ass as this one!!"

The engine is clearly finished and assembled in this last picture of it View attachment 1263652

Bump @shlbynitro ..... was reading through all the guys comments against Fernando purchase and came across this pic... I'll be damn, the PCV valve outlet has a hose coming off it which is now gone somehow. I cant tell where it connected but is not on the carb input for blow by fumes. hmmmm.... interesting

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Bumping thread guys.... had something interesting start happening recently. Theres been a noticeable tapping coming from engine area. Initially I was guessing lifters or small header manifold leak. Add to that I don't trust the oil dip stick at all. it cant be stock oem cause its really long and very thin taking a fair amount of pressure to get all the way down. Its been a full year ownership/ 3K miles driven and there was a small leak I've stopped by tightening valve covers. But the thing is the dip stick has shown overfilled entire year so frankly I dont trust its accuracy. The previous owner hasn't responded to my question concerning this. So today I was up in some hills doing slow up & downs on inclines/ declines and that tapping seemed to be more pronounced coming down a hill slowly like at 1500rpms. Going up hills seemed to stop. So I got to thinking I wonder if it simply needs oil. I've been keeping all my little errand drives around 1500 rpms until I get it sorted not wanting to stress engine. So today I learned 2 things about Fernando: His dipstick aint shit for accuracy and He needed 2-3 quarts of oil and then all the taping disappeared immediately. Brilliant! Nice to not have blown that 460 JaJaJa

Couldn't be more pleased with the truck! Its been exactly 1 year and no issues whatsoever [though only drove 3K miles]. I went back to start of the thread when I was asking folks opinions on the $7K price and if this is a good idea or not. Turned out to be perfect and bulletproof so far all around. I gotta say it is fun going back a year and reading everyones comments.

Cheers fellas.... I know. I know. What about the strippers right. Im giving that a break but did meet a local guy who doesn't seem to mind sharing his local chica friends Im a lucky man.