HPOP is working great. On the scanner making pressure, and no oil everywhere. Injectors are just asleep.
All fuses were good. Also checked that wire...only because a couple weeks ago I had a truck leaking fuel from it
Honestly, I wouldn't have even thought to look there if I had recently dealt with that one.
Thinking about air checking the oil gallies. That still doesn't explain the pulse width trigger though.
Yep, checked it initially
Been checked, buzz tested before and after too...actually looked newer.Remember what I told you about the valve cover gaskets??
I'm gonna print this out...this is freakin' gold here!
"Buzz test" lights off the injector coils. It buzzes them all, and then each one individually through the firing order. The scanner then will tell you which one didn't buzz, or was out of normal range. It's a quick way to see if you have continuity to the injectors.
No, not yet. Everything was on hold, snow one night, high winds and cold the next. Today isn't bad, but he's out working. Probably this weekend. Oh, and the truck is not in a garage...wasn't looking to do this in the snow
Yep, probably going to air check it...something is goofy as hell. The truck has been "futzed" with a lot. That's what makes it so frustrating. It has 200k on it, looks great, but everything has been messed with under the hood.
When my injector o-rings went bad (2 on one side and 1 on the other) I had a long crank, like 8-10 seconds before it would fire, I figure if a second one went on the 1 side it probably wouldn't have started any more.
As I said, haven't even been back out there. It's 30 miles from my house to his. Between weather and my family commitments, not too easy.
Supposedly, no...but if he's like any of a million other car owners, they "forget" things.
I did a set on a 450 a couple months ago. The oil was leaking out the top rings only I think. The fuel was clean in the bowl, and not burning or losing any oil. This one may be the same? With that one, o-rings from the Ford dealer. They had them, and I sure as hell didn't want to risk doing it twice.
The fuel will look clean but the element will be as black as the ace of spades.
Filter looked good when I pulled it out. Drained the bowl to check volume of lift pump. I have pulled them before and they looked like a 6 liter oil filter
Here is where I get almost all my parts for my 7.3 .
www.dieselorings.com
That sounds like the inertia switch. In the event of a hard impact with key still on, it shuts the fuel pump off so it won't pump fuel into a fire, if there is a fire. The reset switch is inside the passenger side kick panel.
Kid will be back. Probably has an "uncle" with a sweet set of tools haha
Mine did this but would cut out, lose power but wouldn't shut off completely at speed on large bumps, pulled the pcm out and reseated the chip and fixed the problem. Not easy thing to find though I was searching for a grounded or chaffed wire under the hood for a while.
I don't think he gave you a fair try
Don't I know how expensive it is, I became a diesel tech fixing my 7.3, bought some tools and made some, a lot of reading and videos and greasy hands and the truck was fixed. I learned a lot and was really interesting learning how the system works
I meant if someone is buying parts and throwing them at it, not that Monkey was giving bad advice.
Absolutely nothing. I have not heard from him since the Friday after Thanksgiving. He had written a text previously, and forgot to hit send(?) Anyway, I told him to air check the oil gallies. I'd found out he and his brother had done the injector o-rings shortly before this had started. I have not heard from him since....
Joe, are your Interstate batteries made in Mexico?I was wondering the same thing the other day...
The 8 month old Interstates in my truck BOTH took a shit! Each battery had one dead cell.
The truck would crank fine, but would NOT start no matter what!
Two new batteries and it's good to go. Freaking Interstates ain't what they used to be. Thank gawd the warranty is solid.
