6.0 bullet proof advice. I needs me some.

[floatn turd]

So here is the deal:

I recently bought a Scangauge after talking with rivrrts429 (thank you sir). I then found to my delight that my truck was showing me all the readings and vitals I didn't want to see. I then took the truck to Domestic Diesel to confirm what I saw, and YUP!! my truck is on the path to take a fat dump. So now I have three choices.

Option A: Drive it till it takes a shit and fix it all then.
Option B: Fix only what needs fixing which will buy me 5,6,7+ additional years but not solve the problem, kinda like a band-aid. A $2,500 band-aid!
Option C: Slap on the full bulletproof kit to the tune of about $5,000. This will eliminate this problem forever.


I don't know if I will keep this truck for the long haul. I may want to sell it in the future.
So here is my question and need for advice.

If I do the full bulletproof kit ($5k) will I be able to get that 5K back out of it when I go to sell it? Or will it be basically a bad investment? ($ wise, not talking about peace of mind) I don't mind spending the money to do it right but I don't want to throw it away if the resale value does not reflect the bulletproof kit upon selling it.

I could just do the 1/2 kit and be done with it. (for the next few years, but its not really fixed)


So what do you "people" think??
I hope all that crap makes sense.

Here is the truck.

2006
Ford F-250
6.0
4x4
78,000 miles



Thank you for the advice.

FT

 

[mobboss]

Well hear is my 2 cents. those trucks really dont lose there value so putting the money into it is not that bad of an idea. However if your just doing it for the value sake of doing it forget it get rid of it now!

 

[McRib]

If you don't plan on keeping it I'd do everything but the head studs. 5 6 7 yrs is a long time. If you tow with it often then I'd do the studs. Ive been steering people away from the bulletproof oil cooler and telling them to go coolant filter. you need head gaskets now then ud be a fool to not stud the heads while they were in there. As far as getting ur money back. It's a vehicle. In 7 yrs it's gonna be a 15 yr old truck and blue book will be damn near nothing anyways so who cares. Do it right and run the piss out of it.

 

[McRib]

On a side note. 6 liters have been on the rise money wise. People are getting on board with the relatively inexpensive fixes to make the motors last.

 

[Flynryan]

If you dont plan on keeping it for the long haul then just drive it until it breaks. The $5k prob is the egr cooler and headstuds Im assuming( all labor). Yours looks very similar to my 05 I had. Good luck. Here is mine.

 

[Meaney77]

My advice.... Sell it or if that isn't an option do everything you can including the studs. I spent over $10k chasing problems including cracked heads, a turbo, egr cooler, oil pump etc....with only 75k on it.

 

[Meaney77]

Also FYI there is a company in Camarillo called Ultimate Truck Performance- I have had a few friends with PS's use him a and have been happy with his work.

 

[rivrrts429]

If you don't plan on keeping it I'd do everything but the head studs. 5 6 7 yrs is a long time. If you tow with it often then I'd do the studs. Ive been steering people away from the bulletproof oil cooler and telling them to go coolant filter. you need head gaskets now then ud be a fool to not stud the heads while they were in there. As far as getting ur money back. It's a vehicle. In 7 yrs it's gonna be a 15 yr old truck and blue book will be damn near nothing anyways so who cares. Do it right and run the piss out of it.

McRib is right and why I didn't go with the full BulletProof kit.

I think the BulletProof kit is a great kit but your money can go further if you tweak where you spend your dollars.

I did the BulletProof EGR cooler (lifetime warranty) but opted to spend the rest of the money on other weak links.

I did the OEM oil cooler, dummy plugs, standpipes, Cam Sensor, HPOP, had the heads pulled and inspected, OEM head gaskets, ARP Head Studs, etc...

I also added a Sinister Coolant Filter http://www.amazon.com/6-0l-Ford-Powerstroke-Coolant-Filtration/dp/B005DM0OC4



I was seconds from signing the papers for a brand new Dodge Dually but $60k was a big nut when I only drive the truck MAYBE 10k miles per year. My Ford is an 04 and I paid it off in 06. A few thousand bucks to fix a decent platform is a bargain compared to a sizeable down payment and sizeable monthly payment for the Dodge.

I wouldn't drive that truck until you make a final decision on what you're going to do (sell it or fix it). When it fails its catastrophic and much more expensive than fixing it now.

 

[HTMike]

2 Words.

CUMMINS SWAP !

 

[McRib]

2 Words.

CUMMINS SWAP !

I would totally destroke my ford. In a heartbeat? That's 15k to start though!

 

[koenig]

Get it done save the bills as proof and you'll avoid low ballers when you sell it.

 

[Spot]

Brand new trucks are 60k + ..... 6.0's are coming back in value. People are recognizing the benefits of a bulletproof 6.0. Personally, I would make the fixes necessary to ensure reliability and drive it. Domestic diesel is the best around and they can easily make that assessment and get you on the road. Some of the powerstoke forums will make you paranoid and feel you need to BP everything. Do what DD recommends to ensure reliability and nothing more (for now). Run a digital gauge on the dash and monitor everything. Your temps and voltage will tell you when something needs repair. Domestic Diesel just did a bunch of work for me and you can't beat those guys.

 

[HTMike]

I would totally destroke my ford. In a heartbeat? That's 15k to start though!

15k ?? I thought it was more like 8.

 

[floatn turd]

McRib is right and why I didn't go with the full BulletProof kit.

I think the BulletProof kit is a great kit but your money can go further if you tweak where you spend your dollars.

I did the BulletProof EGR cooler (lifetime warranty) but opted to spend the rest of the money on other weak links.

I did the OEM oil cooler, dummy plugs, standpipes, Cam Sensor, HPOP, had the heads pulled and inspected, OEM head gaskets, ARP Head Studs, etc...

I also added a Sinister Coolant Filter http://www.amazon.com/6-0l-Ford-Powerstroke-Coolant-Filtration/dp/B005DM0OC4



I was seconds from signing the papers for a brand new Dodge Dually but $60k was a big nut when I only drive the truck MAYBE 10k miles per year. My Ford is an 04 and I paid it off in 06. A few thousand bucks to fix a decent platform is a bargain compared to a sizeable down payment and sizeable monthly payment for the Dodge.

I wouldn't drive that truck until you make a final decision on what you're going to do (sell it or fix it). When it fails its catastrophic and much more expensive than fixing it now.

Maybe I will go that route. How much did all your business cost? If you don't mind me asking.

 

[McRib]

15k ?? I thought it was more like 8.

I got a quote 4 yrs ago of 10k and that was me supplying the motor. 10k for labor, adapters, wiring and other fit and finish crap. At the time there were no authorized destroked places other then Colorado. There is one guy in phx now and a few in the mid west. I'm sure prices may have come down over the years. I may have to call them tomorrow and revisit this. Hmmmmm

 

[HTMike]

I got a quote 4 yrs ago of 10k and that was me supplying the motor. 10k for labor, adapters, wiring and other fit and finish crap. At the time there were no authorized destroked places other then Colorado. There is one guy in phx now and a few in the mid west. I'm sure prices may have come down over the years. I may have to call them tomorrow and revisit this. Hmmmmm

I guess if you are paying a shop to do it, it makes sense at 15k.


Fun Fact. Only the USA, Canada and Australia got the Powerstroke. Everyone else got the 5.9 Cummins.

I seen an 04 F250 in Tahiti a few years ago. 5.9 Cummins from the Factory !


Not to mention, The 7.3 went all the way to 2007 in Austrailia. I dont think they got the 6.0 like we did.

 

[McRib]

15k ?? I thought it was more like 8.

Just looked at their site. There kits cost 45 to 6600. That's just the parts for the conversion. You still need to come up on a motor which could cost 2 to 5k or more depending on weither or not u wanna go 12 or 24 valve or the newer common rail cummins. Then you still need to add labor if your not a DIY'er. That's gonna be a minimum of 30 hours alone. I'm still sticking with starting at 15k.

 

[Ibeplumbing]

4 years ago I bought my 6.0 used. I knew about the problems, I went with the 6.0 anyways because I figured I would save the money from getting a new truck or from an overpriced 7.3. I completely tore the motor down. Everything new, heads etc. at that time all parts included and labor I was around 9k to redo it all. Within a week, bad fuel pump, another week, fuel regulator, another week...turbo. Few months, bad oil cooler, few months 2 injectors. I had about 6 good months after that. Then rear end. Few months, carrier bearing, few months, u joint on drive shaft froze while doing 70, new driveshaft. Few good months again...then output shaft from trans went out. Few good months, trans goes. Few more good months, ipr goes bad. Last year it was carrier bearing again, steering box. 2 more injectors, and another fuel regulator. This year it has been new front end suspension, multiple electrical issues. It's currently in for a hpop and more electrical. Long story short...I'm in over 20k in repairs in 4 years of ownership while still barely hitting 150k miles. I hate this truck so bad, but I'm so far in it. I truly don't believe that they are good after you bulletproof it. The truck is a overall pile of shit. Looks great, but I can't trust it taking it anywhere. I have now spent over 20k in repairs for 25k miles of use. Let some other fool have the headache. You can find a damn nice 7.3 or duramax for what you can sell that for. The feeling of being stranded by your truck sucks...you own a 6.0, it will happen

 

[HTMike]

Check out this Cummins powered 05 or newer in South America, pull starting an airplane.

[video=youtube;WbPL95GoVrA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbPL95GoVrA[/video]

 

[TBulger]

I've done the full Bullet Proof kit, intercooler, radiator and about everything else. Still got to do coolant filter and studs, kind of dread that one and may not do it until I start pulling something really heavy again. McRib has a really good friend Trenton, that does excellent work, I would recommend him without reservation. I guess the only way to do the studs is to pull the motor or raise the body, geez. I've got to say my truck has run great for some time now and I like it. Oh ya, I forgot fuel pump went out and took most of the injectors with it. Probably about 13k total.

 

[Ibeplumbing]

My studs were done with cab on, there are very few shops who know how to do it cab on. OC diesel did all mine when I lived there. Usually saves labor $ to do it cab on

 

[Ibeplumbing]

Best advice is to bulletproof your wallet and run

 

[rivrrts429]

I've done the full Bullet Proof kit, intercooler, radiator and about everything else. Still got to do coolant filter and studs, kind of dread that one and may not do it until I start pulling something really heavy again. McRib has a really good friend Trenton, that does excellent work, I would recommend him without reservation. I guess the only way to do the studs is to pull the motor or raise the body, geez. I've got to say my truck has run great for some time now and I like it. Oh ya, I forgot fuel pump went out and took most of the injectors with it. Probably about 13k total.

I had Trenton just pull the whole fucker out... It was like a damn abortion



Studs went in like butter after that LOL

 

[HavasuHank]

I had Trenton just pull the whole fucker out... It was like a damn abortion


Studs went in like butter after that LOL

Is your truck red?

 

[McRib]

Cab off on the 6.0 only saves like 4 hrs of labor. The 08 to 10 6.4's were specifically designed to do all work with the cab off.

 

[HolyMoly]

Best advice is to bulletproof your wallet and run

Great quote! :thumbsup

 

[rivrrts429]

Is your truck red?

Dark grey crew cab

 

[HavasuHank]

Dark grey crew cab

Gotcha ... BUDMAN382 and I were fucking off one day and went to go talk to Trenton ... and he was working on a truck that belonged to an RDP member. Thought it might have been yours.

 

[McRib]

Gotcha ... BUDMAN382 and I were fucking off one day and went to go talk to Trenton ... and he was working on a truck that belonged to an RDP member. Thought it might have been yours.

The red 350 u saw was my buddy erics.

 

[HavasuHank]

The red 350 u saw was my buddy erics.

Gotcha

 

[BUDMAN]

Like McRib and others said. Go see Trenton. The guy is really good and cheaper than most shops. He's really good friends with john the owner at domestic deisel so they compare a lot of notes
714-470-7478

 

[wedge45]

4 years ago I bought my 6.0 used. I knew about the problems, I went with the 6.0 anyways because I figured I would save the money from getting a new truck or from an overpriced 7.3. I completely tore the motor down. Everything new, heads etc. at that time all parts included and labor I was around 9k to redo it all. Within a week, bad fuel pump, another week, fuel regulator, another week...turbo. Few months, bad oil cooler, few months 2 injectors. I had about 6 good months after that. Then rear end. Few months, carrier bearing, few months, u joint on drive shaft froze while doing 70, new driveshaft. Few good months again...then output shaft from trans went out. Few good months, trans goes. Few more good months, ipr goes bad. Last year it was carrier bearing again, steering box. 2 more injectors, and another fuel regulator. This year it has been new front end suspension, multiple electrical issues. It's currently in for a hpop and more electrical. Long story short...I'm in over 20k in repairs in 4 years of ownership while still barely hitting 150k miles. I hate this truck so bad, but I'm so far in it. I truly don't believe that they are good after you bulletproof it. The truck is a overall pile of shit. Looks great, but I can't trust it taking it anywhere. I have now spent over 20k in repairs for 25k miles of use. Let some other fool have the headache. You can find a damn nice 7.3 or duramax for what you can sell that for. The feeling of being stranded by your truck sucks...you own a 6.0, it will happen

I think your the problem with your truck.... I've had my 6.0 since new, I have 128K and have not 1/4 of the problems you've had....but then I'll bet your truck is not stock and you try to pull 12,000 lbs at 80 MPH down the highway .... just my .02 cents :yikes :yikes :yikes

 

[BUDMAN]

I've been pretty lucky with my truck as well 132k drive the shit out of it and the only problem was a turbo that went bad from a rust problem from sitting too long.

 

[Ibeplumbing]

I think your the problem with your truck.... I've had my 6.0 since new, I have 128K and have not 1/4 of the problems you've had....but then I'll bet your truck is not stock and you try to pull 12,000 lbs at 80 MPH down the highway .... just my .02 cents :yikes :yikes :yikes

Yep, all me....ok. First off, truck is not all heavily modded out. I rarely tow. If i do, it is a 21 ft boat. I most definately do not pull 80, i dont even drive 80 in any vehicle. My license is my job pretty much, i am very careful. As any 6.0 owner should know, leaving it stock is a total crapshoot on whether or not you will have problems, as many were totally fine stock and others were not. I have normal mods; Studs, tuner on a econo/daily tune, exhaust...the rest is stock....your .02 cents was very far off keyboard cowboy

 

[wedge45]

Yep, all me....ok. First off, truck is not all heavily modded out. I rarely tow. If i do, it is a 21 ft boat. I most definately do not pull 80, i dont even drive 80 in any vehicle. My license is my job pretty much, i am very careful. As any 6.0 owner should know, leaving it stock is a total crapshoot on whether or not you will have problems, as many were totally fine stock and others were not. I have normal mods; Studs, tuner on a econo/daily tune, exhaust...the rest is stock....your .02 cents was very far off keyboard cowboy

Your almost there .... Studs Good ... Tuner ....problematic at best, truck not designed to be advancing/retarding timing etc... studs are probably the only mod that has prevented grenading...either that or you bought a Monday morning special after a long 3 day weekend.... Wedge

 

[Ibeplumbing]

you obviously dont know squat about 6.0's dude. you got a good one, great! for you to totally blame someone elses driving habits with absolutely no info on how i drive is a totally off base comment. Not all 6.0's are as great as yours. Ive got several friends who are diesel techs who specialize in fords who tell me all day long about trucks doing the same things as mine. IF you reread what i had posted, seriously consider how many of those are "my fault". Lets review, 1 week old stock fuel pump goes out, 2 week old stock fuel regulator goes out, turbo goes out, stock oil cooler goes out (btw stock oil coolers suck), oh ya 4 month old injectors go out, rear end goes out, previous owner never changed rear end fluid-i changed 1st week of ownership and had an issue unrelated to my time of ownership being i had had the truck for all of 5k miles at the time, carrier bearings are common to go out on fords, oh ya and the non greasable stock u joints on the 2 piece driveshaft, output shaft on trans damage probably mostly caused by u joint failing....dude i could go on forever. Go down the list, and really look at how many of those are my fault. The problems with these trucks is documented more than any other, if you deny these things you are ignorant. How many problems can you seriously cause "yourself" with my explained driving habits in 25k miles? cmon....Not all of the 6.0's are good, regardless of how much money you throw at them or how little. I was giving my opinion on the OP's question. It should have been left at that...

 

[Ibeplumbing]

and i hope you realize that there are people who's job is to know anything and everything about these motors, whether it be for performance or not. the tuner i have is a SCT with custom tunes from IDP, not some crap box tuner. These guys know more about how to properly set up a motor than ford obviously did. If you notice, none of my problems are with the workings of the motor. it is everything else around it...the point i was trying to make to the OP is that you can do anything and everything to the motor you want and still end up with a money pit. my motor is fantastic now, i have no complaints on how it drives power wise or fuel mileage...its the overall reliability of the whole vehicle and everything encompassing it

 

[Ibeplumbing]

Sorry for thread jacking OP!

 

[Carlson-jet]

So here is the deal:

I recently bought a Scangauge after talking with rivrrts429 (thank you sir). I then found to my delight that my truck was showing me all the readings and vitals I didn't want to see. I then took the truck to Domestic Diesel to confirm what I saw, and YUP!! my truck is on the path to take a fat dump. So now I have three choices.


Option B: Fix only what needs fixing which will buy me 5,6,7+ additional years but not solve the problem, kinda like a band-aid. A $2,500 band-aid!

Nothing and I mean nothing last forever. Ever. In seven years the computers will start shitting down your throat. Is there a fix for that? Cheap/expensive and lasts forever?

I don't know if I will keep this truck for the long haul. I may want to sell it in the future.
So here is my question and need for advice.



I could just do the 1/2 kit and be done with it. (for the next few years, but its not really fixed)

Winner


So what do you "people" think??
I hope all that crap makes sense.


2006
Ford F-250
6.0
4x4
78,000 miles
View attachment 333497


Thank you for the advice.

FT

??

 

[h2o225]

Ok heres my .02. If you plan on keeping 5-7 years put the$ in it. My truck is an 05 150k. I knew the problems with the 6.0.
1st mod around 12k miles 55gal fuel tank then coolant filter. Coolant filter seperates the the sand from coolant. These blocks are cast in sand.the sand is partially what causes the egr and oil coolers fail.
2nd mod complete Banks kit front to rear. Iq with one step down from 6 six gun, intercooler, and monster exhaust with speed brake.
3rd mod complete bullete proof kit. I knew the problem and the kit was installed with 95k on odometer. Insallatin done at Truck Works in Banning think it was 4k.

Now have 150k and just did injectors had 4 bad ones decided to replace all. Will replace turbo later this year for peace of mind and the fact the unison ring is showing wear.

I ordered this truck in August of 2004 and plan on keeping it for a long time. The less these trucks are driven the harder it is on the motor especially the turbo bescause of rust building on the vanes.

my truck runs great drives great and if I ask it it will flat haul ass. It tows the boat and the 30 toy box no problem.

 

[Carlson-jet]

Ok heres my .02. If you plan on keeping 5-7 years put the$ in it. My truck is an 05 150k. I knew the problems with the 6.0.
1st mod around 12k miles 55gal fuel tank then coolant filter. Coolant filter seperates the the sand from coolant. These blocks are cast in sand.the sand is partially what causes the egr and oil coolers fail.
2nd mod complete Banks kit front to rear. Iq with one step down from 6 six gun, intercooler, and monster exhaust with speed brake.
3rd mod complete bullete proof kit. I knew the problem and the kit was installed with 95k on odometer. Insallatin done at Truck Works in Banning think it was 4k.

Now have 160k and just did injectors had 4 bad ones decided to replace all. Will replace turbo later this year for peace of mind and the fact the unison ring is showing wear.

I ordered this truck in August of 2004 and plan on keeping it for a long time. The less these trucks are driven the harder it is on the motor especially the turbo bescause of rust building on the vanes.

my truck runs great drives great and if I ask it it will flat haul ass. It tows the boat and the 30 toy box no problem.

Do you expect this reliability in 7 years? Just an honest question.

 

[h2o225]

In reality yes. Keep maintenance done I should be good unless the electrical systems start giving trouble.
Up til February my truck was the newest vehicle at the house. Now have a 2007 hhr with 139k on it. My commute towork is 110 miles round trip daily. I had a 1993 acura that I got 375k on before they stole it. Then got a 97 lumina just gave it to my cousin with 150k on it. Wifes 04 yukon has 160k and always maintained.
My son drives a 1993 dogde 250 with a 5.9 cummins with just under 400k on odometer.

In most cases keep it maintain and it will take care of you

 

[Ibeplumbing]

heres a link to a earlier conversation on here, read it

http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/showthread.php?104032-Pwerstroke-6-0-liter-can-be-bulletproof

 

[floatn turd]

I have surmised after all this business: That its a damned if you do and damned if you don't, kinda gig (if I keep this turd). So i'm going talk to some more shops, drink heavily and make some kind of decision as to how much rape my bank account will receive.
O-well it is what it is.


Thank you for all the comments and suggestions. :thumbup:



FT

 

[boat527]

2 Words.

CUMMINS SWAP !

Its the right thing to do and the best of both worlds...FoMoCo beast with a beast motor...

 

[h2o225]

If your in so cal call Terry at Truck Works 9519224776. Like many shops he also specializes with 6.0 psd. He is a real good fiend and will treat you right.

 

[Abc123]

The best way to Bulletproof a Ford is to sell it.


Here's my experience owning a Ford. This was my V-10, but my 2006 6.0 was equally a pile.

 

[HTMike]

You could just sell it to me cheap and I'll do the Cummins swap.

 

[HolyMoly]

The best way to Bulletproof a Ford is to sell it.


Here's my experience owning a Ford. This was my V-10, but my 2006 6.0 was equally a pile.

I had 2 v-10 fords. My wifes E-350 which had the first year V-10. Took it to 200K+ miles with no issues. The first year v-10 was 285 hp, which I think is why it did so well. After that, they were 310 hp or more. My excursion had a V-10 and I spit so many spark plugs out of it that they finally replaced the heads and put in a re-manufactured long block, all under warranty (good thing I bought an extended warranty!). Put it up for sale as soon as I got it back and sold it pretty cheap for a quick sale. Then bought my 7.3.

 

[blacksockdown]

So here is the deal:

I recently bought a Scangauge after talking with rivrrts429 (thank you sir). I then found to my delight that my truck was showing me all the readings and vitals I didn't want to see. I then took the truck to Domestic Diesel to confirm what I saw, and YUP!! my truck is on the path to take a fat dump. So now I have three choices.

Option A: Drive it till it takes a shit and fix it all then.
Option B: Fix only what needs fixing which will buy me 5,6,7+ additional years but not solve the problem, kinda like a band-aid. A $2,500 band-aid!
Option C: Slap on the full bulletproof kit to the tune of about $5,000. This will eliminate this problem forever.


I don't know if I will keep this truck for the long haul. I may want to sell it in the future.
So here is my question and need for advice.

If I do the full bulletproof kit ($5k) will I be able to get that 5K back out of it when I go to sell it? Or will it be basically a bad investment? ($ wise, not talking about peace of mind) I don't mind spending the money to do it right but I don't want to throw it away if the resale value does not reflect the bulletproof kit upon selling it.



I could just do the 1/2 kit and be done with it. (for the next few years, but its not really fixed)


So what do you "people" think??
I hope all that crap makes sense.

Here is the truck.



2006
Ford F-250
6.0
4x4
78,000 miles
View attachment 333497





Thank you for the advice.

FT

That is a nice lookin truck.:thumbup: