19' Daytona Project.... Continued!

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The new one looked different so I grabbed the package and checked the parts numbers. Well, the packaging SAYS Mercury....

....but this thermostat is beleieved to be for an Evinrude.

Picked these up today from Dick Sherrer in Lakewood. Thank you Ragged Edge for the referral!!

 

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The impeller I picked up in Parker looked different too. It looked huge.

Here is a comparison to the water impeller from the water impeller kit I picked up today.

 

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Here is the part number for the impeller kit I got today from Dick Sherrer.

So after all that, I think we finally have the right parts for this motor.

I also picked up some gear lube for the lower unit and another set of plugs while I was there. So on our next trip out to Parker, I'll try and get this all swapped out.

 

[Duramax]

Here is the part number for the impeller kit I got today from Dick Sherrer.

View attachment 907919

So after all that, I think we finally have the right parts for this motor.

I also picked up some gear lube for the lower unit and another set of plugs while I was there. So on our next trip out to Parker, I'll try and get this all swapped out.

What plugs are you running? What motor is that actually - year-make-model?

 

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Hey Duramax! The motor is a 1992 Mercury 2.5 liter 200hp XR-6 Magnum III. The plugs currently in the motor are NGK BU8H. Those are the same plugs I bought from Dick Sherrer last week, so as of now, that's what I'll continue to use until someone recommends something better or different. I haven't gotten to spend a lot of time running the engine, so I don't know if there is a better plug to run that others may recommend.

 

[Backlash]

Good afternoon! We made a quick trip out to the river for the weekend to get away from the SoCal craziness. Gawd it's nice here! But....

....thieves f-ing SUCK!

Anyone looking to sell a prop?? Fock!

My poor neighbor's was taken as well. Anyways, we are enjoying ourselves and are happy to experience a bit of normalcy here in AZ. Have a great weekend and stay safe folks!

 

[Backlash]

Good evening! I had a few minutes to tinker around today, so I did a little work on our jet ski project and a little bit on this boat as well. Oh yeah, I also did a little transom work on the Howard today too!

It was an easy yet productive day! LMAO!

These are the small strips I cut down last summer so that I can relocate the throttle pedal assembly down inside the hull bottom. I drilled these pieces out, recessed some stainless bolts and epoxied the bolts in place, front and back side.

Once these bolts cured, I got the first layer of 1708 down over the heads of the bolts. I'll let this cure overnight and trim the edges back tomorrow.

Once I get the backside of these blocks trimmed flush and any rough areas smoothed out, I can add a layer of 1708 to the front side where the bolts protrude through. Then it will just be a matter of smoothing everything out and glassing these blocks to the insides of the tunnels.

 

[Duramax]

Any head way on this?

 

[Backlash]

Good afternoon, just a small update. I've been working on other some things while searching around for some parts for this boat. I found a good deal on a used midsection and ordered it last week. It just got delivered today.

This is a bare 20" unit and should bolt up to the motor we currently have. I'm still on the fence if I want to stick with this midsection "As is," or do a little extra work and have it shortened to a 15" mid with a few improvements. Any input and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I need to paint this mid before it gets installed, so if I'm going to do any work to this thing, I'd rather do all the work prior to painting it. Still a long ways to go, but I'm happy with this addition that's been added to the pile of goodies. Other than this little update, I've got nothing else to share. This project has been stagnant for far too long.

Happy Mother's Day to everyone and I hope you all have a nice day! Stay safe!

 

[KK12]

Good afternoon, just a small update. I've been working on other some things while searching around for some parts for this boat. I found a good deal on a used midsection and ordered it last week. It just got delivered today.

View attachment 1000777

View attachment 1000781

This is a bare 20" unit and should bolt up to the motor we currently have. I'm still on the fence if I want to stick with this midsection "As is," or do a little extra work and have it shortened to a 15" mid with a few improvements. Any input and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I need to paint this mid before it gets installed, so if I'm going to do any work to this thing, I'd rather do all the work prior to painting it. Still a long ways to go, but I'm happy with this addition that's been added to the pile of goodies. Other than this little update, I've got nothing else to share. This project has been stagnant for far too long.

Happy Mother's Day to everyone and I hope you all have a nice day! Stay safe!

Sub’d

Looking forward to seeing the final product out on the water. Good stuff man!

 

[Backlash]

Sub’d

Looking forward to seeing the final product out on the water. Good stuff man!

Thank you I really appreciate the kind words and support! This will take a little while to get it where I want it to be, so please be patient with me. I'll try to get it up and running in the near future "As is," but the lower unit and midsection work will take some time. Feel free to comment and provide some guidance along the way!

 

[MK1MOD0]

At this point since it’s all just sitting there , I’d go for the 15” mid conversation. Lowering all that weight 5” and reducing the center of gravity, has really got to help with the overall handling and stability.

 

[Backlash]

Good morning! Taking some time during this rainy weather to try and figure out how I want to layout an updated electrical system for this boat. This is very early in this lengthy and time consuming process, but I figured I would add some updates as I go. I'm waiting on some more supplies and other goodies to arrive for this process (New heavy duty terminal crimpers for example!).

No, I am not a marine electrician, so any help, suggestions or pointers along the way would be greatly appreciated. The goal is to make things safe, reliable and servicable.

Currently, the boat has a single battery with a bunch of connections at each post on the battery. That's it. It's a bit of a mess, but I've tried cleaning things up as best I could without ripping everything out. There is no circuit protection anywhere in the current electrical system, but most everything on the boat seems to work, sortof.

I am going to be adding a second battery, and with that, a new battery selector switch and an automatic charging relay. I can wire the motor and automatic bilge pumps to the primary or "Start" battery, then wire other nonessential items to the second battery, or the "House" battery. And yes, the goal is to fit all of this into this tiny 19' tunnel hull while keeping things somewhat hidden. We'll see how that goes.

 

[Backlash]

I am NOT using any supplies or materials that are not "Marine" rated. The cables, wire and terminals are all from Ancor. If you've ever priced any of their products, well, that will explain why there are crude blue tape labels on everything. I want to make absolutely certain that things are where they need to be before I start chopping up the most expensive cable and wire known to man.

I will try and label everything as I go so there is no question regarding what cable or wire goes where. I'll also be heat-shrinking every terminal connector with an adhesive-lined heat shrink, then applying a second layer of clear 3M heat shrink over the first.

You can barely see it in this picture, but there is an adhesive glue that oozes out from underneath the red Ancor heat shrink tubing that when melted, creates a watertight layer covering the cable and the end of the terminal. The second layer of clear 3M heat shrink tubing is longer than the red heat shrink and extends beyond the first. I'll repeat this for each cable and wire as we move along.

More to come.... Thank you for following along! Have a fantastic day and stay safe!

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Use pieces of scrap or smaller cable to route your paths and think of how things will lay, and how serviceable it will be when you’re done.

This is a twin engine boat I did last fall. Added house battery, isolators, and a 3-bank charger. Came out reasonably clean I think.

 

[Backlash]

Beautiful work Sir! It's motivating, thank you for sharing! That's the goal for this project, so I'm hoping you will chime in along the way and keep me on the straight and narrow.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

I’m certainly not a know-it-all, but am happy if you’re inspired.

One of the pages that never ever gets closed on my phone is the bluesea chart for battery cable sizing vs load.

Bluesea wiring chart

That’s my wiring bible.

Looking forward to seeing your results!

 

[Backlash]

I'll also be using some Blue Seas products as I think they are as good as you can get. Majority of these runs with the large cable are going to be short. The longest run will be from the motor to the batteries, and that's only about 6' or so. The rest of these pieces should be relatively short as I'm trying to keep the batteries close together. And yes, you've inspired me, thank you very much!!

 

[HydroSkreamin]

I'll also be using some Blue Seas products as I think they are as good as you can get. Majority of these runs with the large cable are going to be short. The longest run will be from the motor to the batteries, and that's only about 6' or so. The rest of these pieces should be relatively short as I'm trying to keep the batteries close together. And yes, you've inspired me, thank you very much!!

The fact that you’re even trying to do it the best you can means it will turn out great. Getting people to follow any kind of standard is half the battle.

You’ve got good components and good wire.

One of the other things that I think is helpful is to draw a rough diagram of the boat and put all of the items you need to power, their loads (especially if you’re pairing anything), and where you intend to run everything. This lets you have that roadmap, and it all really starts making sense once you’ve completely thought it through and drawn it out. I’ve found it minimizes the surprises and disappointments

Remember, if you’re tying a bunch of grounds together, the cabling needs to be rated for the max load on that circuit. Everyone considers the hot side, but forgets that the ground side carries the exact same load for the circuit to work.

ABYC recommends no more than 4 wires per post...so if you have multiple hot or ground studs and tie them together, add that all up when sizing cables.

Good luck!

 

[Backlash]

Thank you so much for the support! I am sure this will be overkill for this boat, but I guess that's just how I'm wired.....no pun intended.

 

[stingray11]

Great thread you got going on here, Just thought I would mention cause I haven't seen it mentioned marine wire for in your boat should be tinned copper wire..
Prevents corrosion


Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Backlash]

Great thread you got going on here, Just thought I would mention cause I haven't seen it mentioned marine wire for in your boat should be tinned copper wire..
Prevents corrosion


Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

Thank you Stingray that's exactly what I'll be using throughout this project.

 

[Backlash]

Good afternoon! I haven't had much free time this week to mess around with this project, but I did get these components mounted temporarily. What you see in this picture will be for mockup purposes only until I figure out exactly where everything needs to go. There isn't a lot of room to work, so it will be a little tight.

I got a few deliveries this week, so hopefully I'll be able to make some forward progress. My favorite new toy has to be the new heavy-duty cable crimpers. They weren't cheap, but they sure are nice and they will come in handy with this and future projects.

 

[Backlash]

Good evening! Just a small update with some progress on the electrical. I am pretty happy with the way this is coming along. Please feel free to chime in with any comments because I am by no means an expert!

The picture below is a mockup to give you an idea how this should look once everything is installed in the boat. There is still a lot to do, but it's been enjoyable thus far.

As always, thank you for following along. Have a great evening and stay safe!

 

[Backlash]

Good morning! I'm almost finished with this portion of the mockup. There are three cables left to connect to this panel and it will essentially be finished up and ready for a trial fit. Once I'm happy with the layout and I'm certain everything will clear and fit, I'll cut out the permanent panel where all of this will go. Then into the hull and ready for final wiring to the batteries and the motor.

Here is where it's currently at....

The ground from the engine will attach to the maxi bus in the center of this panel where you see one piece of blue tape. The second piece of blue tape will be the ground from the fuse panel. On the top of the panel there is a third piece of blue tape that is on a 40amp breaker. This will be the power supply for the same fuse panel. Once I'm sure everything will fit as planned, I'll simply need to terminate the cabling to the batteries and the battery selector switch like I've done thus far. Should be fairly straightforward. Anyhow, just wanted to share a little update. Have a nice day and stay safe!

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Looking good!

I’d suggest running the two power cables to the ACR’s together up the middle between everything, under the short loop for the breaker at the top of the picture.

It might be overkill, but I’d put 3 J-clips holding those same two cables; one right off the breakers, one at the top of the bus bar, and one above the top breaker. This will prevent the positive and negative cables from chafing.

Keep it up!

 

[Backlash]

Thank for the recommendations and for the support, I really appreciate it! I'll do as you suggest in the final rendition of this mockup. If there is anything else you'd address or do differently, please let me know.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Thank for the recommendations and for the support, I really appreciate it! I'll do as you suggest in the final rendition of this mockup. If there is anything else you'd address or do differently, please let me know.

I don’t know if you’re mounting everything to a board and installing that or mounting it all on the existing structure, but just for aesthetics I’d line up the outside edges of all the components. Gives it an “engineered” feel. JMO, don’t feel you have to do that. It’s got zero to do with function.

 

[Backlash]

The pictures I've been sharing are of a mockup version of the final rendition. You can see where I've moved some things around and left some screw holes here and there. And yes, everything will be lined up and straight when finished. I'm not 100% finalized on the finished product, but it will either be a white composite similar to Starboard or a new piece of plywood that's glassed over. Either way, this panel will be secured between two mini bulkheads inside the hull. The batteries will be secured down in between these two bulkheads with the battery switch and ACR faces exposed towards the passenger compartment of the boat. I hope that makes sense.

 

[Backlash]

Good evening! It's been awhile since I added any updates, so here are a few. As you know, this boat needs functioning bilge pumps and a place to mount them. I've got one 1000gph and two 500gph Johnson pumps with automatic sensors along with a new panel and switches. First, the easy stuff.

 

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These will be the mounting pads for the bilge pumps and the pump mounting holes have been filled with thickened resin.

 

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Once the holes were filled and sanded flush, I put a layer of 1708 on each of these blocks.

Once that layer cured, I trimmed and sanded everything smooth. Looking back, I should have used a larger round-over bit on the top edge. It would have made it easier to lay down the thicker fiberglass cloth that I used. 1708 doesn't like corners or sharp edges.

 

[Backlash]

Finally, I put down two layers of thinner cloth over each of these blocks. I trimmed up the edges and left it to cure. I'll knock down the high spots with a light sanding and these will be ready to install in the back of the boat.

As these are guaranteed to get wet, I wanted to put down several layers of glass to try and increase their lifespan.

 

[Backlash]

Happy 4th of July! We snuck out to the river this weekend for some much needed R&R. Didn't put any boats in the water and just sat on the beach and floated in the sun! It was beautiful!! Ran over to Pirate's for dinner and the sunset didn't disappoint!

I messed around a bit and checked the fitment on some of the parts I've made. Things are coming along slowly but surely. Came back early this morning and had a nice surprise waiting for me!

No complaints here! Scored this prop from a member on another site. It's in good shape and should work well once we get this motor situated correctly. Like I always say......baby steps.

 

[Backlash]

Good afternoon! I realized I haven't posted up any updates lately. I've just been working on some little parts and gathering a few things we'll need down the road.

The boat has a recessed two switch panel on the left side of the steering wheel for the jackplate and trim. So in keeping with that same theme, I ordered another recessed switch panel from Eddie Marine. It's a nice piece for sure. My only gripe with them, is they don't offer the switch panel without the switches. It's OK, I just thought they might do that in order to keep their pricing down. They probably order these Carling switches by the case, so....

The dash on a 19' Daytona is tiny, so we'll have to get creative in order to add two of these panels.

 

[Backlash]

I like how this boat is rigged and the clean layout of the gauges on the dash. Clean and simple. So my plan is to add these two switch panels in a small console on the left side of the driver's seat. There is a lot space down below the deck where the sponsons are, that isn't currently in use.

I started off by ripping a piece of ABS in half. I did this to create a crude mold so I could lay up some fiberglass corners. I put down a bit of wax paper, mixed up some resin and laid down three layers of CSM in the ABS.

 

[Backlash]

Once those cured, I popped them out and set them aside. They'll get trimmed to size when I get the console dimensions sorted out.

I want to recess these two switch panels into the face of the console. It isn't necessary to do this, but you know me, I have to do things the hardest way possible.

I looked around the house to find something I could use as a mold.....similar to what I did for the corner pieces above. To my wife's displeasure, one of her Pyrex dishes was just about PERFECT!

I put down a layer of painter's tape on the outside of the Pyrex dish just to make her feel like I wasn't going to damage her dish. It would have been easier to just coat the outside of the Pyrex with some mold release wax, but that would have been a hard sell. She wouldn't have approved.

 

[Backlash]

I put down two layers of CSM and let it cure. Don't worry, I'm going to add more material to this part later. Yes, it is currently a thin piece, but that's temporary.

Cut the edges off and pulled the Pyrex dish out.

I'll do this one more time for a second part, then work on adding material to these pieces as needed. There's more to come.

As always, thank you for following along! Have a great day and stay safe!

 

[poncho]

Nice work and cool thread

 

[ChrisV]

Keep it coming!

 

[Backlash]

Good afternoon! I played around a bit on this little project today and made some more headway.

I cut out a 1/4" piece of ply and fit it to the backside of this part. I rounded over the corners and mixed up a batch of resin and fibers. Coated the back of this plywood and then pressed it into place. I put a bunch of weight on it to force the excess resin out and to make sure there was a good bond. Once that cured, I added a small amount of resin and cabosil to the edges to form a smooth transition for the glass. Then I put down a layer of CSM.

 

[Backlash]

This all set up, then I went over the high spots to smooth things out.

I drilled out the corners and cut this out for the switch panel to fit in.

 

[Backlash]

The recess for this panel is slightly larger than I wanted, but I didn't want to create any more work for myself. I could have cut things down for a tighter fit, but this will work out just fine.

Here I'm am sorting out the angle that I want the face of the switch panel to sit in. I want it to have a slight upward angle to it. That way, while sitting in the seat of the boat, you'll still be able to see the switches down below the gunnel.

 

[Backlash]

I marked the angles then cut off the excess glass. Once I did that, I ran a D/A sander over everything to smooth out the high spots and to rough up the surfaces for future bonding.

That's about all I did for today. Not too shabby. Now it's time to make a second one identical to this one. Have a great evening and as always, thank you for following along!

 

[ChrisV]

badass. Amazing what tools you can use around the house. haha

 

[Backlash]

badass. Amazing what tools you can use around the house. haha

Gotta be creative from time to time! Hahaaa!!! Definitely some backyard engineering going on with this project!

 

[ChrisV]

Sup wid it

 

[Backlash]

Right now, not much! Hahaha!! I listed it for sale minus motor, just to see if there was any interest. If it doesn't sell in the next few weeks, I'll end up spending more time on it and dumping more money into it.

 

[Matt Mead]

Looking back, I should have used a larger round-over bit on the top edge. It would have made it easier to lay down the thicker fiberglass cloth that I used. 1708 doesn't like corners or sharp edges.

You're telling me! I wish I would have known this before attempting my first ever fiberglass job with 1708, lol! Tried to glass in seat mounts that look like stringers. Ughhhhhh..... Next time I'm trying 1208 or just 1200. 1708 doesn't want to go around corners at all and is so thick it's air bubble city. I saw "1708" being talked about so much on popular forums I thought it was the bees knees for everything. I mean, it's strong AF, but it probably should just be used for large swooping corners that need to be ultra strong such as....the hull itself!

 

[ChrisV]

Right now, not much! Hahaha!! I listed it for sale minus motor, just to see if there was any interest. If it doesn't sell in the next few weeks, I'll end up spending more time on it and dumping more money into it.

If it was a 21 I would picked it up from you.