2FORCEFULL
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what brand and model prop do you have???......I definitely see what you’re talking about.
what brand and model prop do you have???......I definitely see what you’re talking about.
42 mph at 6000 rpms is 19% slip... sues toon runs single digit ,she runs 42 @ 5050 with a lower gear,(1.85)Havasu, yes.
I’ll see 53-54 fully loaded, against the rev limiter. It’ll cruise easily at 40-45 but I’m at 6k and 20 GPH.
what brand and model prop do you have???
Ah ha,,....that motor has a big gear case....in order to run the other props you need that adapter....is that an enersha (SP) prop???14.7 16p 3 blade Enertia
There isn’t a gaping area around the outside of the prop: View attachment 772624
that's the same thing I ran into with my honda/ coach....jumped on plane, but blew the prop out after 2500 rpms...still doing test on that toon..but... going to a 4 blade sure made adifferance...14.7 16p 3 blade Enertia
There isn’t a gaping area around the outside of the prop: View attachment 772624
If you’re in town sometime soon I’d really like to take you up on the 17p 4 blade sometime. I’m really thinking that’s where this beast needs to be.
What was weird to me is that the Avalon dealer runs 4 blades on all his bigger toons, and here I am with a 16p 3 blade on a 400. I don’t think much time was put into the prop choice [emoji2371][emoji2371]
View attachment 772609
They put a 17p on my 27 Avalon with a 350 and it pulls to 6300
I think evinrudes rebel is pretty much a copy,.. it has a 15'' diameter with huge blades, and only 3 blades...diameter will eat up a lot of HP, but the big blades will keep it hooked up....what I have found so far in all my prop tests,... a 4 blade will give more performace through out the whole rpm range.....going from a 3 blade to four... you can drop the diameter about an inch,... there for making it easier to spin with less power....I have found with my tests that the 4 blade will net higher cruising speeds, lower slip numbers, and better GPH results...but...both seem to be very close with WOT speed..3 blade enertia
the boat in the pics looks to be where I found to be right....when I got the boat(sues godfrey) they mounted the motor to level with the bottom, I found it to work way better with the cav plate at the bottom of the notch@2FORCEFULL
This isn’t my boat but mine has the same toon bottom with a very large notch and I’m running the Verado 250. What are your thoughts on where to mount the engine height in relation to the bottom?
View attachment 772873
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the boat in the pics looks to be where I found to be right....when I got the boat(sues godfrey) they mounted the motor to level with the bottom, I found it to work way better with the cav plate at the bottom of the notch
I stopped by Cactus RV on the way home from work this morning just for shits and giggles, since their boats are on the lot I was able to take a quick peek at what the 400s were propped at. They were both R models, so they rev a few hundred higher than mine.
One was a. 14.5 x 17p and the other was a 16x17p, but both of them 3 blades. I’m convinced a 17 is where I should be, still unsure about 3 vs 4 blade. Thinking about ordering a couple aluminum since they’re cheap. I can’t drop 700 bones on multiple props to try out.
I have a 15p 4 blade you should try..the 4 blade is gonna get more bite and stern lift with out robbing the low end torqueThanks! I’ll move my motor up another hole or two. My spray deflector is even with the notch, so my cavitation plate is below now.
Both were below originally and the spray was terrible, I could also feel the stern being sucked down. Moved it to were it is today and it was much better but your thread has reminded me to try going higher.
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what speed and rpm?? 1.75 gear???I’ll be in Havasu this weekend, you’re welcome to try my REV 4 19p. I would bet your 400 could pull it.
I’d actually love to try your 16p enertia. I have a 14p enertia and I can pull it to the limiter.
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oh, and I would try a different prop first, when you load up the toon in front your ganna get more stern liftThanks! I’ll move my motor up another hole or two. My spray deflector is even with the notch, so my cavitation plate is below now.
Both were below originally and the spray was terrible, I could also feel the stern being sucked down. Moved it to were it is today and it was much better but your thread has reminded me to try going higher.
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what speed and rpm?? 1.75 gear???
I would say there's plenty of room for improvement....that's 16% slip at 35mph. sues boat will pull a 19p 4 blade to 36 @ 4000 rpms...Yes, I have 1.75 gear and can pull the 14p to the 6400+ rpm. Top speed has been 42-45mph. I usually cruise at 35mph which is 5500rpm, I’d love for that cruise rpm to come down.
I know I need more stern lift as my boat really likes to run more flat than bow high. With my 3 blade enertia, it actually requires a slight negative trim for max speed. Trimming neutral actually sucks the stern back down and loses speed.
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Put a Bob's Jackplate on it and run it up as high as it will go without blowing it out- Rev 4 or Bravo 19-20"@2FORCEFULL
This isn’t my boat but mine has the same toon bottom with a very large notch and I’m running the Verado 250. What are your thoughts on where to mount the engine height in relation to the bottom?
View attachment 772873
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Bottoms Bottoms-
It all starts with the bottom design. Every manufacturer has a different bottom. The bottoms vary even within the pontoon boat builders models. So this discussion should start with a good photo of the rear bottoms.
Most pontoon purchases are driven by the family,so the buying decision is based on how much the wife likes the interior. The performance is secondary until the buyer figures out that the performance is not up to expectations and tries to fix it. For performance the best bottoms are made by Manitou, Playcraft and Southbay on their high end models.
These manufacturers race their products and improve them- With the same power Manitou, Playcraft and Southbay will run 5-10mph faster-all because they have the better bottoms.
Put a Bob's Jackplate on it and run it up as high as it will go without blowing it out- Rev 4 or Bravo 19-20"
These are custom built- You decide the bottom, the seating arrangement, colors etc. The sheet is just a starting point.2300, 2200, 2100
Features
- Skid Guard Keels on Nose of 24″ Pontoons
- Foam Floatation Contoured to Fill Each Pontoon
- Front Water Deflectors on Pontoons
- Nose Castings on Each Pontoon
- Mooring Eyes on Each Corner
- All Aluminum Cross Members Under Deck 16″ on Center
- Wide Heavy-Duty Extruded Aluminum Side Deck Bumpers
- Aluminum Castings on All Corners
- Anodized Aluminum Rails
- Baked Enamel Aluminum Side Panels
- Limited Lifetime CCA 7 ply Plywood on Decks
- Corrosion Resistant Fasteners
- Selected RotoCast Seat Frames
- Courtesy Lights
- Running Lights
- SONY AM/FM Stereo w/CD & 4 Marine Dual Cone Speakers
- Designer Graphics on Side Panels
- Infinity Woven Vinyl Flooring
- Captain Seat Flip Flop Design
- Stern Sofas w/Storage
- Fiberglass Console With
- Drink Holders, Tach, Speedo, Water PSI, Horn, & Windshield
- L-Shape Ensemble w/Snack Table
- Port & Starboard Front Sofas w/Storage
- Shrink Wrap (Bubble Pack)
- 12 Volt Outlet
- 2 Portable Drink Holders
- Extended Center Deck & Transom (2600 SRL Only).
- Split Rear Lounge (2600 SRL Only).
They are better than the 4 strokes on performance like the old Optimax's were. On the same hull our 250hp Pro XS(270hp) ran 58+ vs. the Verado at 62+ with 350hp. The Optimax handled better-it is the extra 150lbs on the Verado. Not only that but at 4000rpm we were running 40 mph. With the Verado I'm running 30mph. Boats great just need a Mercury Racing 300R for a lighter boat. The problem with ETEC is their very small market share(3.7%) and their service base which reflects in the resale price.drag racing has all ways been a shut up now way to prove the fact of who is faster....racing a class is a lot more harder as everyone has to weigh the same with the same motor..
i'd like to see a shoot out with all the same toons... size wise, and differant motor builders....I'm a believer that Evinrude will win...but... I think they cheat..... they call the 300 hp a 250... pretty sure just to say they out perform...if all motors only put out 250 hp...cost and reliability is key...
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- Brand: Evinrude
- Product Code: A300XU
- Availability: In Stock
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- $19,537.00
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General Information
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT 133 Amps Total/ 50 net Dedicated/14 amps @ idle
DISPLACEMENT 210 cu in/3441 cc
EMISSIONS COMPLIANCE EPA 2013 CARB 3 STAR European Union
FUEL/INDUCTION SYSTEM E-TEC Direct Injection with stratified low RPM combustion mode
LUBRICATION Multi-point Targeted Oiling
MODEL 300 HP G2 V6 ICON II
PROP SHAFT HORSEPOWER Factory Tuned for High Performance
RECOMMENDED ENGINE OIL Evinrude/ Johnson XD-100 Oil
RECOMMENDED FUEL 87 Octane
SERIES E-TEC
STEERING Remote - DPS
WARRANTY 5-Year
MODEL NUMBER A300XU
HORSEPOWER 300
ENGINE TYPE V6 74° E-TEC D.I.
STARTING SYSTEM Electric
BORE X STROKE 3.854 x 3.000 in / 98 x 76 mm
FULL THROTTLE RPM RANGE 5400-6000 RPM
GEAR RATIO 1.85
SHAFT LENGTH 25" 635mm
DRY WEIGHT 569 lbs.
ROTATION i-Dock Counter Rotation
POWER TRIM AND TILT Yes
The All-New Evinrude E-TEC G2 The outboard of the future. Introducing a revolutionary concept in outboards - a choice. Now, choose cutting-edge over commonplace. Choose more torque over more talk. Choose more time on the water over more time in the shop. Choose the outboard that performs, and looks like no other outboard in the world.
Specifications:
- Model: 250 HP G2 V6 ICON II
- Model Number: E250Z
- Series: E-TEC
- HP: 250
- Engine Type: V6 74° E-TEC D.I.
- Displacement: 210 cu in/3441 cc
- Bore x Stroke: 3.854 x 3.000 in / 98 x 76 mm
- Prop Shaft Horsepower:
- Fuel/Induction System: E-TEC Direct Injection with stratified low RPM combustion mode
- Alternator Output: 133 Amps Total/ 50 net Dedicated/14 amps @ idle
- Starting System: Electric
- Steering: IPS (Integrated Power Steering)
- Lubrication: Multi-point Targeted Oiling
- Recommended fuel: 87 Octane
- Full Throttle RPM Range: 5400-6000 RPM
- Recommended Engine Oil: Evinrude/ Johnson XD-100 Oil
- Gear Ratio: 1.85
- Shaft Length: 30"
- Emissions compliance: EPA 2013 CARB 3 STAR European Union
- Dry Weight: 570 lbs.
- Rotation: Standard (Right)
- Warranty: 5-Year, Non Declining
- Power Trim & Tilt: Yes
They race at the LOTO Shootout for top guns in different power classes- Manitou, Southbay , Playcraft, Crest. They also run in circle races several times a year-Also get the shootout issue of Pontoon & Deckboat magazine.drag racing has all ways been a shut up now way to prove the fact of who is faster....racing a class is a lot more harder as everyone has to weigh the same with the same motor..
i'd like to see a shoot out with all the same toons... size wise, and differant motor builders....I'm a believer that Evinrude will win...but... I think they cheat..... they call the 300 hp a 250... pretty sure just to say they out perform...if all motors only put out 250 hp...cost and reliability is key...
Click Image for Gallery
- Brand: Evinrude
- Product Code: A300XU
- Availability: In Stock
-+
- $19,537.00
Add to Wish List Compare this Product
0 reviews / Write a review
General Information
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT 133 Amps Total/ 50 net Dedicated/14 amps @ idle
DISPLACEMENT 210 cu in/3441 cc
EMISSIONS COMPLIANCE EPA 2013 CARB 3 STAR European Union
FUEL/INDUCTION SYSTEM E-TEC Direct Injection with stratified low RPM combustion mode
LUBRICATION Multi-point Targeted Oiling
MODEL 300 HP G2 V6 ICON II
PROP SHAFT HORSEPOWER Factory Tuned for High Performance
RECOMMENDED ENGINE OIL Evinrude/ Johnson XD-100 Oil
RECOMMENDED FUEL 87 Octane
SERIES E-TEC
STEERING Remote - DPS
WARRANTY 5-Year
MODEL NUMBER A300XU
HORSEPOWER 300
ENGINE TYPE V6 74° E-TEC D.I.
STARTING SYSTEM Electric
BORE X STROKE 3.854 x 3.000 in / 98 x 76 mm
FULL THROTTLE RPM RANGE 5400-6000 RPM
GEAR RATIO 1.85
SHAFT LENGTH 25" 635mm
DRY WEIGHT 569 lbs.
ROTATION i-Dock Counter Rotation
POWER TRIM AND TILT Yes
The All-New Evinrude E-TEC G2 The outboard of the future. Introducing a revolutionary concept in outboards - a choice. Now, choose cutting-edge over commonplace. Choose more torque over more talk. Choose more time on the water over more time in the shop. Choose the outboard that performs, and looks like no other outboard in the world.
Specifications:
- Model: 250 HP G2 V6 ICON II
- Model Number: E250Z
- Series: E-TEC
- HP: 250
- Engine Type: V6 74° E-TEC D.I.
- Displacement: 210 cu in/3441 cc
- Bore x Stroke: 3.854 x 3.000 in / 98 x 76 mm
- Prop Shaft Horsepower:
- Fuel/Induction System: E-TEC Direct Injection with stratified low RPM combustion mode
- Alternator Output: 133 Amps Total/ 50 net Dedicated/14 amps @ idle
- Starting System: Electric
- Steering: IPS (Integrated Power Steering)
- Lubrication: Multi-point Targeted Oiling
- Recommended fuel: 87 Octane
- Full Throttle RPM Range: 5400-6000 RPM
- Recommended Engine Oil: Evinrude/ Johnson XD-100 Oil
- Gear Ratio: 1.85
- Shaft Length: 30"
- Emissions compliance: EPA 2013 CARB 3 STAR European Union
- Dry Weight: 570 lbs.
- Rotation: Standard (Right)
- Warranty: 5-Year, Non Declining
- Power Trim & Tilt: Yes
The Godfrey should be lighter than the Coach. The ETECH should be lighter than the Honda. The Godfrey should be way more fun to drive, lighter two stroke.and as far as bottom design....they all claim to have the best on the water...I can tell you this for fact...as I have 2 different toons,.. both measure the same in almost every way... my coach, although it looks better IMO.....doesn't perform anywhere near what Sues godfrey does...the honda doesn't compare to the Evinrude in any way...the coach doesn't ride as well either....one of the wants was the rear loungers...we found that to be not as good as dual rear bench seats that you can stretch out on...the loungers take up seating for six...when parked at the channel.. we found the loungers to be great,... but that was just us two on board.....while sitting there, we had a guest come on board.....no where to sit, and lounged out felt uncomfortable with some one standing there...next, my coach has dual helm.... another bad idea, it also takes up a bunch of space and adds a whole lotta weight...so on my do over.... that'll change...also, with the dual helm.... you don't get the side door... we use it a lot when beached....when I bought it... the full windshied was a want.... one trip out and it was removed....horrible,and it cuts the toon in halves... front or back...people in front can't mingle with those in the rear...and you have to run with the windshield close to keep from breaking it..also... the dual raised seat platforms... another weight gain that's pretty much usless
are you a playcraft dealer?These are custom built- You decide the bottom, the seating arrangement, colors etc. The sheet is just a starting point.
Hi their I hear you know something about schiada with IO and not performing well as the V Drive,are you a playcraft dealer?
props are more for intended use...how you load will make a difference in prop selectionBy the videos logic I should be at a 19. But I know that isn’t right. Well, it’s not what people run anyway.
props are more for intended use...how you load will make a difference in prop selection
Yes weight makes a big difference on these outboards.I think we are all experiencing why outboards have not taken over the boating world completely. They just dont have the torque of a big block and every bit of weight added to the boat affects them and slows them down. It was much less noticeable to me in my deck boat with a Teague 825 to load 8 or 10 persons but even if I had twin 400s on a toon 10 persons would slow it down significantly. Now if you run light then outboards gain the advantage due to the power to engine weight ratio.