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Tow Hitch Opinions???

BigCity47

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Wanted some feedback from you guys on our newest tow hitch. We finally developed our dual ball mount for those of you who are in need of different size balls for different trailers. What do you guys think? Would you roll this hitch??
IMG_7448-600x600.jpg
 

NicPaus

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Does the adjustable part lock? Tongue weight capacity and overall capacity?
 

ONE-A-DAY

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Can i get just the light thingy? I have a nice adjustable hitch already.
 

BigCity47

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Can i get just the light thingy? I have a nice adjustable hitch already.

Unfortunately our light/step housings only fit our hitches as the are designed to be a certain length to accommodate them.
 

BigCity47

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I like it. More specs/pics?

Specs:

  • Fits 2" x 2" trailer hitch receivers
  • Ball diameters: 2" and 2-5/16"
  • Pin hole diameter: 5/8"
  • Weight capacity:
    • 10,000 lbs GTW with 2" hitch ball
    • 12,000 GTW with 2-5/16" hitch ball
  • Tongue weight: 1,000 lbs
 

NicPaus

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Nice. All the knew 3/4 and larger have 2 1/2 shanks now and are rated with heavier capacity receivers. How about 1 with 1500 tongue 20k gross in a 2 1/2" shank.
 

fishing fool

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After looking at the web page. How much stress does it put on the hitch being out so far?
 

BigCity47

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Nice. All the knew 3/4 and larger have 2 1/2 shanks now and are rated with heavier capacity receivers. How about 1 with 1500 tongue 20k gross in a 2 1/2" shank.
2.5" shank is in the works. Baby steps for now.
 

Flying_Lavey

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The stress on the hitch its self.

Thats a good point. The firther the ball is from the reciever, the less it can hold. Not depending on the hitch construction but instead the factory reciever. If its rated at 10k lbs on a 2" drop hitch (standard hitch) but then you put a 10" drop hitch on it, you know increased that load substantially on the torque tube which transfers the weight the truck frame. The closer the ball to the centerline of that torqye tube, the less rotational force is being transfered to that tube. Makes me wonder how a hitch with a 12" drop can be rated for the same load as one with a 2" drop yet they use the same receiver....
 

BigCity47

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Thats a good point. The firther the ball is from the reciever, the less it can hold. Not depending on the hitch construction but instead the factory reciever. If its rated at 10k lbs on a 2" drop hitch (standard hitch) but then you put a 10" drop hitch on it, you know increased that load substantially on the torque tube which transfers the weight the truck frame. The closer the ball to the centerline of that torqye tube, the less rotational force is being transfered to that tube. Makes me wonder how a hitch with a 12" drop can be rated for the same load as one with a 2" drop yet they use the same receiver....
its nice to see people wheels spinning in this matter! People are oblivious to this stuff and I'm glad people are thinking this way.
 

Enen

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Are these hitches Aluminum or Steel?
 

RitcheyRch

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Looks pretty nice and I would consider it if was in the market for a new receiver. I like the added lights.
 

fishing fool

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Thats a good point. The firther the ball is from the reciever, the less it can hold. Not depending on the hitch construction but instead the factory reciever. If its rated at 10k lbs on a 2" drop hitch (standard hitch) but then you put a 10" drop hitch on it, you know increased that load substantially on the torque tube which transfers the weight the truck frame. The closer the ball to the centerline of that torqye tube, the less rotational force is being transfered to that tube. Makes me wonder how a hitch with a 12" drop can be rated for the same load as one with a 2" drop yet they use the same receiver....

I'm not worried about the drop, more worried about the ball being 8" away (or more) from the frame.

How much for just the receiver without lights? $315 is a little on the high side.
 

sml

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I'm not worried about the drop, more worried about the ball being 8" away (or more) from the frame.

How much for just the receiver without lights? $315 is a little on the high side.

I have an extended shank (lol) similar to this size for when i tow my car hauler. I had the same concerns as you seem to have so I only tow 7k or less with it. It is the shank that came with the weight distribution set up that i use for that trailer only since it is a low deck car hauler.

I also had to extend the trailer safety chains.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

farmo83

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Are the lights switched in the cab ? How do you turn them on ?
 

Singleton

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Are the lights switched in the cab ? How do you turn them on ?
If wired through the 5 or 7 pin, they get turned on when in reverse.
Biggest reason I have separate lights on a switch, I use the lights when not only in reverse.
 

rrrr

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You might consider making a harness that has a 5 or 7 pin injection molded male and female body so it can be used inline with the trailer plug. It would plug into the truck's socket and the trailer plug could be inserted into the harness female connector.

Does this explanation make sense? This might be too expensive or unwieldy, I'm prolly overthinking this in a big way.
 

RiverDave

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Thats a good point. The firther the ball is from the reciever, the less it can hold. Not depending on the hitch construction but instead the factory reciever. If its rated at 10k lbs on a 2" drop hitch (standard hitch) but then you put a 10" drop hitch on it, you know increased that load substantially on the torque tube which transfers the weight the truck frame. The closer the ball to the centerline of that torqye tube, the less rotational force is being transfered to that tube. Makes me wonder how a hitch with a 12" drop can be rated for the same load as one with a 2" drop yet they use the same receiver....

The up and down won't change it as much as you would think.. Extending it out away from the truck would change it quite a bit though.

That all said, I'd bet for anything I'd do that hitch would be more than fine.

RD
 

4Waters

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The up and down won't change it as much as you would think.. Extending it out away from the truck would change it quite a bit though.

That all said, I'd bet for anything I'd do that hitch would be more than fine.

RD
What they are talking about is the rotational torque, the further down the ball is the more rotational torque there is on the trucks receiver during braking and acceleration and that could be a problem however I have not seen a failed receiver from that, I have only seen one fail from too much tongue weight.
 

farmo83

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I'm with RD, this would pull anything I would need it to. I thought 315 was a little high but then I remembered I paid around 250 for the hitch I currently have and this appears to be a much better unit. If I didn't have my BW I would buy one.
 

fishing fool

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Since the hitch has the approval of the inmates. What is the rdp discount???? And do you have one without the light?
 

LazyLavey

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You might consider making a harness that has a 5 or 7 pin injection molded male and female body so it can be used inline with the trailer plug. It would plug into the truck's socket and the trailer plug could be inserted into the harness female connector.

Does this explanation make sense? This might be too expensive or unwieldy, I'm prolly overthinking this in a big way.

How's this?

Designed to Plug into your OEM plug behind your bumper. (hard to see the M and F round 7-pin plugs
138359-2.jpg
in the pic)
 

Ziggy

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Im sure it's length is fine. I had a 3 foot extension into my receiver back in my cabover camper days that barely flexed when loaded
 

rrrr

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How's this?

Designed to Plug into your OEM plug behind your bumper. (hard to see the M and F round 7-pin plugs View attachment 609184 in the pic)


Back before trucks came stock with trailer plugs there was an outfit that sold trailer harnesses which piggybacked into one of the taillight plugs. They were made for Ford and GM products. That's what made me think of it.
 
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