Mcchevy69ss
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Great scientific comparison of a Roots Blower vs Whipple Blower. Proof of the horsepower you are leaving on the table when you buy a Roots blower.
Just watched that today myself. Great comparison, love the way he conducts experiments
Great scientific comparison of a Roots Blower vs Whipple Blower. Proof of the horsepower you are leaving on the table when you buy a Roots blower.
It doesn't matter if its a diesel, gasoline, alcohol or Nitro the more air density there is the more fuel you can add to make more power.Very comprehensive and interesting. Smart man. I wonder how this translates to a IC (gasoline) engine.....
I would love to see the same breakdown on a good turbo setup. the parasitic loss on the crank from the blower is real, turbo doesn't have that but it does add resistance to the exhaust.
The low RPM throttle tip in on the SC would be noticeably better but overall the turbo could beat it all. I don't know........
Very interesting.........
I would love to see the same breakdown on a good turbo setup. the parasitic loss on the crank from the blower is real, turbo doesn't have that but it does add resistance to the exhaust.
The low RPM throttle tip in on the SC would be noticeably better but overall the turbo could beat it all. I don't know........
Very interesting.........
Huge differences! Turbo, Roots, Screw, and even PSI blowers have there place, with old school roots style blowers being the most outdated and inefficient... I am sure that Alexi @BoostPower has done a ton of testing, but one very recent test that I was involved with saw significant gains with a new whipple system. When you have to dial an engine back because it blows you away on the dyno it is amazing... A Whipple on alcohol is bitchen!
So where is the place to go read/watch or research how to build a basic supercharged small block GM motor.. From a rebuild perspective? I.E. I have a GM 350 small block boat motor ready for a rebuild and would want to try to make it "Blower/Whipple Ready"? Also, when doing such a project, what makes it a marine build on the long block besides brass freeze plugs? I know all the accessories are marine and why like alt, starter etc...
Huge differences! Turbo, Roots, Screw, and even PSI blowers have there place, with old school roots style blowers being the most outdated and inefficient... I am sure that Alexi @BoostPower has done a ton of testing, but one very recent test that I was involved with saw significant gains with a new whipple system. When you have to dial an engine back because it blows you away on the dyno it is amazing... A Whipple on alcohol is bitchen!
The video does a great job of explaining it, basically the difference is in efficiency. The amount of horsepower that it takes to produce a specific volume of air at a given temperature... The PSI is just part of the picture, you can produce a given PSI with anyone of the power adders, it is how much power it takes to produce that PSI and the air density at that given PSI.I understand that roots and whippel / eaton have different ways of making boost compared to a roots, but how is a psi different?
I am by no means an engine builder so take this for what it is.. Because marine engines are under a constant load they generate a lot more heat than automotive applications. You will need to run inconel valves, the clearances in the motor are setup loser, and depending on the application you may have to spec the cams to prevent reversion.
No, almost all clearances will be based on the components you use for the new rebuild. If you were to use all old new stock of the exact same components you might be able to get away with it. The parts used today are VERY different than the parts used in a stock rebuild 30 years ago! Even simple stuff like the cylinder hone on the block are significantly better now...So I have the factory service manual that contains all of the specs for bearing clearances, break down inspections and rebuild parameters. Although it is over 30 years old on a 30 year old motor, if I rebuild with aftermarket parts that all measure and meet the specs from the service manual... do I have a marine motor?
No, almost all clearances will be based on the components you use for the new rebuild. If you were to use all old new stock of the exact same components you might be able to get away with it. The parts used today are VERY different than the parts used in a stock rebuild 30 years ago! Even simple stuff like the cylinder hone on the block are significantly better now...
Also helps to be able to manipulate the boost characteristics without making much if a difference to the parasitic loss (using variable vane geometry, etc...seems like more and more stuff nowadays from the OEM's.......are TURBO's.
I wonder why?
Boost doesn’t guarantee you horsepower, it’s really about air density. 10 lbs of boost that is 400* doesn’t make you as much power as 8lbs of boost at 200*. Essentially it’s about how many oxygen molecules you can get to the cylinder, and the hotter (less dense)the air is the less you can fit into the cylinder.I understand that roots and whippel / eaton have different ways of making boost compared to a roots, but how is a psi different?
Boost doesn’t guarantee you horsepower, it’s really about air density. 10 lbs of boost that is 400* doesn’t make you as much power as 8lbs of boost at 200*. Essentially it’s about how many oxygen molecules you can get to the cylinder, and the hotter (less dense)the air is the less you can fit into the cylinder.
View attachment 807856 Did someone say turbos and E85?!
I ran a pro charger for 8 years on my 540, at 10lbs. They are actually the best bolt on blower for a stockish drive. My Daytona ran into the low 120’s with it. The intake charge through there intercooler is very cool. They are so forgiving on drives, they have no bottom end, kinda like a turbo, my drive lasted through 2 kids learning to ski, myself wakboarding,”I was shitty at getting up”, .Not to completley stir the pot but is there a reason pro chargers get minimal love(ie not that many of them are around) in the marine world ? I know they are supposed to be the best of both but are they actually the worst ?
seems like more and more stuff nowadays from the OEM's.......are TURBO's.
I wonder why?
View attachment 807856 Did someone say turbos and E85?!
I’m interested. Details?
It’s a 1994 21’ Daytona with a 468 Chevrolet (Dart block/Brodix head), B1 pump with all his stuff, low profile intake, CSU blow thru carb on E85, MSD digital 7530 ignition. New gel, capped front/back and new interior from Martinez.Can you post some more pictures your sweet ass boat please??
It’s a 1994 21’ Daytona with a 468 Chevrolet (Dart block/Brodix head), B1 pump with all his stuff, low profile intake, CSU blow thru carb on E85, MSD digital 7530 ignition. New gel, capped front/back and new interior from Martinez.
It’s gonna be up for sale shortly.......I have another hot rod in the works and my wife won’t let me have both. And the new boat might get a Whipple.
View attachment 808117 View attachment 808118 View attachment 808119
Luv the white Daytona!It’s a 1994 21’ Daytona with a 468 Chevrolet (Dart block/Brodix head), B1 pump with all his stuff, low profile intake, CSU blow thru carb on E85, MSD digital 7530 ignition. New gel, capped front/back and new interior from Martinez.
It’s gonna be up for sale shortly.......I have another hot rod in the works and my wife won’t let me have both. And the new boat might get a Whipple.
View attachment 808117 View attachment 808118 View attachment 808119
It’s a 1994 21’ Daytona with a 468 Chevrolet (Dart block/Brodix head), B1 pump with all his stuff, low profile intake, CSU blow thru carb on E85, MSD digital 7530 ignition. New gel, capped front/back and new interior from Martinez.
It’s gonna be up for sale shortly.......I have another hot rod in the works and my wife won’t let me have both. And the new boat might get a Whipple.
View attachment 808117 View attachment 808118 View attachment 808119
I have to look on computer to see if I have more pics. Im guessing low 90’s as it is now, around 12 psi and spins in the neighborhood of 6400-6500. I’ve never had a gps to check accurately. There’s a bunch of wastegate left and more in the setup to go a lot faster. I just haven’t had time to spend on it due to building a house, family, and lack of time. I’m admittedly, not a pump tuner either!More detailed engine pics please.
How fast does it run and what rpm does it turn the jet?
The video does a great job of explaining it, basically the difference is in efficiency. The amount of horsepower that it takes to produce a specific volume of air at a given temperature... The PSI is just part of the picture, you can produce a given PSI with anyone of the power adders, it is how much power it takes to produce that PSI and the air density at that given PSI.