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The gearcase thread.

HST4ME

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Today we have Patricks Sporty on the rack in need of love

Pinon gear pitted from material migrating through the gear set.

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Fwd gear
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Damaged gear and clutch dog surfaces, focus you fuck

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The driveshafts Mercury could never get right, for $1200 you would damn well think they could get it right. They rot underneath the water pump base where the seals ride, I'll have this one fixed and can go on Pat's shelf as a spare and put a new stainless shaft in.

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Prop shaft, in a pinch it could be reused, but the wear rings will eventually damage the seals from the shaft end play . So a new fat shaft is going in
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Next is cleaning whats left of the spray bomb paint off and a little scotch bride pad work to shine it up.
 

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hallett21

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If you have the time do you mind explaining the nitty gritty of this? I understand that you need straight shafts and square gears.

But my knowledge is electrical so it’s interesting to me for someone to “dumb it down”.
 

HST4ME

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Pinion gears and 3 liters don't get along. The ecus really needed a cylinder drop call from the shift switch
 
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Fonz69

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Reverse gear bearing came in today so it’s going back together tomorrow and I get to see if my homemade ring tool holds up to 210 lbs of torque 😬

Thanks for the help again HST4ME 😎

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n2otoofast4u

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This is why I don’t own these fkn things anymore! 10s of thousands over the course of a couple boats. All the tricks, could not get the lowers to stay together.
 

ChrisV

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really surpirsed no one have ever made billet gears for these things.
 

patina

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Glad I found out when I did. She was on her last leg! Excited to see it come back together.
 

stoker2001

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Today we have Patricks Sporty on the rack in need of love

Pinon gear pitted from material migrating through the gear set.

View attachment 1333153
Fwd gear
View attachment 1333154

Damaged gear and clutch dog surfaces, focus you fuck

View attachment 1333155 View attachment 1333156

The driveshafts Mercury could never get right, for $1200 you would damn well think they could get it right. They rot underneath the water pump base where the seals ride, I'll have this one fixed and can go on Pat's shelf as a spare and put a new stainless shaft in.

View attachment 1333157

Prop shaft, in a pinch it could be reused, but the wear rings will eventually damage the seals from the shaft end play . So a new fat shaft is going in
View attachment 1333159

Next is cleaning whats left of the spray bomb paint off and a little scotch bride pad work to shine it up.
when we were texting i was imagining this was a 2.5 lower..thats why i said the cheap route on driveshaft is to get 3.0 DS and have resplined to course spline 2.5..
this used to save Quite a few BUCKS,wonder if Mercury caught on to that?
 

HST4ME

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when we were texting i was imagining this was a 2.5 lower..thats why i said the cheap route on driveshaft is to get 3.0 DS and have resplined to course spline 2.5..
this used to save Quite a few BUCKS,wonder if Mercury caught on to that?
The stainless shafts don't hold up to someone being a dickhead offshore, they will twist the splines. For us general lake/river guys they work fine. I'm on year 5 or 6 and the splines show a little wear but no big deal. The shaft on my drag motor didn't make 20 hours before the chrome peeled.
 

28skater

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HST, do you have a part number for a steel pinion nut removal tool for 300X? Thanks
 

HST4ME

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Alright be on this in the morning, not gonna lie I humped a car motor back into it's hole and bailed for the day. 75 and on the water in a t shirt in February, not much got done today.
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HST4ME

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Parts is parts

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The housing spent a couple days in the ultrasonic tank, thankfully most of the spray bomb paint came off and the rest wasn't bad with a wire wheel, down in the hole we start with the OG .025 forward bearing shim



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Move ahead to the new propshaft


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The new clutch dog with it's piss poor deburring job. You have to look at anything that comes out of the box anymore, the clutch wouldn't slide all the way on the splines so I got to spend 15-20 minutes with a debur tool cleaning it up.

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New pin/clutch springs and detents installed.

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Race dropped in with the new gear, for assemblies the races get chilled in dry ice and slip in, the cones go on a hot plate at 200 degrees and slip right on gears and shafts, no hammering with a driver or press work.

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Kevins favorite bearings.

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Driveshaft set up tool and new pinion installed


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Pinion gear height tool, spec is .025, came in at a loose .021 first shot, shim juggle to add another .004 under the upper bearing race and perfect.


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An old shaft using a puller to load the forward gear for the backlash check.

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Spec is .017 to .025 backlash, so yay. Somehow I forgot the flag/indicator pic.


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New seals and bearing, somewhere in life someone forgot the thrust washer, that's why the carrier nut and the nose of the carrier are beat up. I have a little fixture for the press to seat the seals straight, to check set it on end a give it a spin.
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New reverse gear, yes I cleaned everything before it went together.

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Whats missing? Eventually Pat would have had cooling issues from the missing grommet so it's a good thing he didn't run the boat much.

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New cover nut torqued to 250 ft lb, pressure checked to 15 psi, was still there when I left a couple hours later. Quick scrub with a scotch brite pad and some cleaner, lube and ready to go. Next Friday I'll be on my way to see Pat and a couple other buddies that live near him, then on to the Weekends on the Water Suwanee River run.

Sorry about the area cleanliness, that normally is a tear down area and last two were shrapnel disasters and there is a ssm3 in my other stand.
 
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patina

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Thanks for sharing! So glad I found you to do the rebuild. Excited to splash this thing in a few days!
 
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