monkeyswrench
To The Rescue!
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- Sep 7, 2018
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That ain't barn wood! That's the trailer deck, so no flex seal, gravity!How are they attached to the wall, the new flex seal super glue?
That ain't barn wood! That's the trailer deck, so no flex seal, gravity!How are they attached to the wall, the new flex seal super glue?
come pick up the dually and get it running. There's money in that thar junk.That ain't barn wood! That's the trailer deck, so no flex seal, gravity!
Unfortunately, all long term and major undertakings are on hold for the time being.(Getting an old Chevy running is easy, getting it moved beforehand can be an issuecome pick up the dually and get it running. There's money in that thar junk.![]()
Exactly! It ran until it didn't...well tell me the damn storyGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. I hate when you don't get the whole story!
It was drummed into me by my electrical class teacher, look first at whatever has recently been touched/fixed/replaced/modified!
At work that’s rule 2GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. I hate when you don't get the whole story!
It was drummed into me by my electrical class teacher, look first at whatever has recently been touched/fixed/replaced/modified!
Sure sounds like stupidity is gonna be expensive for the owner…Oh, and a couple more things, the tank had been dropped for the pump? The early 6.7's didn't have an in-tank pump. They had a "fuel conditioning unit"...frame mounted pump with a built in filter housing. My hypothesis is the kid dropped the tank not knowing the other part was the pump. The other thing, the "new pump", didn't look new at all.
Both of truck and of shop...Shop better be sharpening their pencil too. Either way, I get paid, but the shop agreed with owner on the heavy initial part, and didn't do their due diligence. Fukered up all the way around.Sure sounds like stupidity is gonna be expensive for the owner…
"Grandpa's" truck. The shop owners grandfather bought it new. He retired from Boeing in the 80's, and moved from Garden Grove, to Lake Isabella and then here. Truck sat for 15 years mostly, and they dug it out to redo it for his 80th, Fresh 390/C6 and added power steering. All new rubber, paint and interior. He now gave it to his daughter...he stopped driving. So, it sits againWhat's the story on the F100 in the carport? Looks decent![]()
Thank you, but my skillset is nothing special. I broke a lot of stuff (still do), and learned it was better to buy tools than pay someone to fix it. The equipment stuff you get pretty good with when your equipment needs to run to get paid, same with work trucks. The fun stuff, like old cars and hotrods, they were always what I liked. Stuff gets stupid expensive if you have someone else do itBro you have an amazing set of Skills. I love this thread. Can't believe we never ran into each other back in the day out in SGV. Drag racing and generally running amok.
Yeah that’s why I build my own stuff. It’s still stupid expensiveThank you, but my skillset is nothing special. I broke a lot of stuff (still do), and learned it was better to buy tools than pay someone to fix it. The equipment stuff you get pretty good with when your equipment needs to run to get paid, same with work trucks. The fun stuff, like old cars and hotrods, they were always what I liked. Stuff gets stupid expensive if you have someone else do it
Hoping to start building something cool or stupid in spring. Maybe even work on my 31 again...
The 31 has been the Winchester mystery car. Was a body from Pixley CA, but had been an old jalopy racer, so but butchered. Had it on a 32 frame, then decided I didn't like a heavy chop with a "fat frame". Channel on an A frame, kind of, and air bagged. Now leaning towards a Bonneville look with a full hood. Haven't decided on a motor now...had a flathead at one point, but don't know. The whole thing will weigh less than 1500lbs, so won't need a lot to scare you. I have a friend with a late model direct injected chevy V6 and a 6spd...looks like it will fit, and the thing was close to 300hp. A 13b rotary would piss everyone off, but would fit nice. A 2jz would be tight on length, but with the hood closed no one would know what the hell it wasYeah that’s why I build my own stuff. It’s still stupid expensive31 with a ton of horsepower sounds cool and stupid!
Rotary would insane. Especially with the bonneville look. My old boss I believe still holds 2 records at Bonneville with a rotaryThe 31 has been the Winchester mystery car. Was a body from Pixley CA, but had been an old jalopy racer, so but butchered. Had it on a 32 frame, then decided I didn't like a heavy chop with a "fat frame". Channel on an A frame, kind of, and air bagged. Now leaning towards a Bonneville look with a full hood. Haven't decided on a motor now...had a flathead at one point, but don't know. The whole thing will weigh less than 1500lbs, so won't need a lot to scare you. I have a friend with a late model direct injected chevy V6 and a 6spd...looks like it will fit, and the thing was close to 300hp. A 13b rotary would piss everyone off, but would fit nice. A 2jz would be tight on length, but with the hood closed no one would know what the hell it was![]()
Update on F250:
Owner and son picked it up this week. When I backed it out of the shop, trans felt low on fluid...paused before going into drive. I parked it, and told owner. He asked if I roaded it. "Nope, my job was to make it run. Trans feels like shit, I don't want the responsibility"
Trans was junk when he ran it!
Well, when they picked it up, kid denied it had a trans issue, and also tried to pin the oil leak on me! Funny, considering the dad knew of the leak, and I never touched the turbo. Kid had installed the turbo months ago...
Real happy I didn't hammer it for a victory lap though
This week I got to do another disc brake conversion. It was a Wilwood kit for an 8" rear. I think this kit may fit a small bearing 9" too. View attachment 1289276
Very Chevy truck looking on the park brake assembly. Kit came with lines, adapters and even parking brake cables. View attachment 1289277
All this, because the rear calipers that this had on it didn't match. It was a weird setup on it, not Ford that I knew of. View attachment 1289278
The car is a 65 Mustang fastback. It has a 5.0 in it, with a Painless wiring kit. Next up will be a 69 pedal swap. The guy who built the car routed the cable all goofy, and there's too much drag. He did it to match the stock pedal...but the throttle doesn't like to return
Current owner also thinks the motor feels lazy. Next trip over also going to take a timing light, and see where that's at as well as maybe doing some more research on the motor. It looks to be a GT40 motor with aluminum heads, but the throttle body and maf look to be small?
I was thinking 60, but haven't had a stocker since 1994! I also thought the HO intakes were all marked "HO" beneath the cover. Either way, should be fun!MAFs were always very small on these, it's a known restriction on the intake side of the 5.0s. I believe the stock TB was 58mm but aftermarket 75+mm are available and direct bolt on. aftermarket high flowing tunable mafs can be had for pretty cheap too
MAFs were always very small on these, it's a known restriction on the intake side of the 5.0s. I believe the stock TB was 58mm but aftermarket 75+mm are available and direct bolt on. aftermarket high flowing tunable mafs can be had for pretty cheap too
I believe the MAF was 58 and the TB was 60I was thinking 60, but haven't had a stocker since 1994! I also thought the HO intakes were all marked "HO" beneath the cover. Either way, should be fun!
I was thinking 60, but haven't had a stocker since 1994! I also thought the HO intakes were all marked "HO" beneath the cover. Either way, should be fun!
Well, I'll be revisiting the 6.7 Ford this week...remember how I said I was glad I didn't make that call?
Anyway, a trailer showed up a few weeks back. Trailer had some issues, the car on it had issues...and a log splitter...with issues.
The car was a 90's Explorer. It's got low ish miles for the age, but miles that would kill most trucks. It started life as a prerunner, but is now semi-retired, kind of an overland camping and hunting rig. Axle seal, AC repair and shock reseal. View attachment 1284603
Old girl has some travel! Hydraulic bumps needed resealing as well. With a two post lift, this is no big deal. I don't have one. So, stuff gets a bit creative. View attachment 1284605
I pressure washed the whole deal before getting started... View attachment 1284607
Being where I am, replacement hard parts can be an issue...don't ever want grit somewhere to mess up aluminum surfaces or threads.
… i’ve never thought an Explorer could stand up to the rigors of much of anything… But given all the lives, this one’s had..,I can see…well yeah… what a fun ass vehicle..,Hey!!
I recognize that Exploder!
First, I'd like to thank Kevin for giving this old steed the attention I just didn't have the time to give it. As always, great job and thank you!!
Second, for anyone interested in the truck-a short story about it.
Back sometime around 2002, my sister's boyfriend bought this thing that had been built as a prerunner for a local race team. It had good bones-king shocks, deaver rear springs, cut and turned front beams done right-the problem was whoever did the fab and install did a terrible job and it was all falling apart. So I cut everything out of it and started over. New shock hoops front and rear, corrected the geometry on all the shock angles, plated the frame in key stress areas, added the air bumps, better engine bay access. Then, to give it better travel, I clearanced the front beams and u-joints so the front end would pull full travel with out binding on the 4wd components. IIRC, the front end pulls something like 16" of travel. The rear wouldn't travel like I wanted it to, so I cut off the factory shackle mounts and built new ones and custom longer Toyota style 4130 units-which was fairly unheard of back in the day. The longer shackles allowed the rear to work at its full potential and cycle in the 18" department. I then build a custom swaybar set up to work with all that travel and remain under the floor. One thing that I've always liked about this truck is it's kinda a wolf in sheeps clothing. until I bolted that huge tent on the roof and bumper on the rear, it looks like a pretty stock Explorer until you really look close and find out it's got a lot going on.
But my favorite thing about this truck, is all the same components are on it that have been on it since way back in '02. And they all still work great. The shocks and bumps have been rebuilt several times, and as the truck changed hands and or purposes, the rear leaf pack has been changed or modified to accommodate extra weight-but everything is still the same. This truck doesn't have a lot of miles, but the miles it does have would have broken several lesser trucks into scrap.
The other fun part of this truck is it's truly a family rig. After my sister's boyfriend tired of it in it's prerunner form, he was ready to sell it. My sister loved the truck, so rather than let it go, she bought it from him(jokes on her-they later got married-she coulda had the truck for free, lol.), then changing needs ment the truck was converted to what nowadays we'd call an overlanding rig. After a decade or more of playing camping rig, my sister needed to upgrade to a newer vehicle, so my wife bought the Exploder from her and gave it to me as a suprise birthday present. It was then put back to prerunner trim and became the vehicle that we and Wash11 use to get around the home front when the mud gets too terrible for everything else on wheels-earning it the nickname Mud Taxi. A couple years ago, I needed a hunting/camping rig, so an old RTT I had got strapped to the top, and the big springs went back under it. My sister and husband have insisted if we ever get tired of it, they want to buy it back, so it looks like it will stay in the family for some time, lol.
Through it all, this truck has proven damn near unstoppable. And it's never broken down or left us stranded. It just goes and goes. Not bad for a 30+ year old truck.
I attached a couple pictures from '04 that show it back in it's original build trim playing prerunner at the Parker 400, and a short local camping trip.
In these situations where I cant set base timing due to ignition module activity at lower rpms, I'll set max timing at 3,500 rpm instead. I will normally start at about 32° on an NA motor and work my way forward or backward from there. I've found that the 5.0 HO motors generally like closer to the 34-36° range. I use an Innova timing light that has a built in timing advance function for doing it this wayView attachment 1294166
View attachment 1294167
1st pic was the fun part...1969 pedal swap into the 65. 69's had a cable, 5's had a rod and were through the firewall. The online folks say one stock hole lines up, and just drill a second. Sure thing...but then the pedal is a inch higher and doesn't look right. Got the pedal mounted and measured out where to drill for the cable. Since the intake was off, owner wanted polished 5.0 valve covers swapped. Did that real quick, and drilled the hole. Didn't want to have metal bits find their way swapping after. Used a Lokar 24" cable.
Buttoned it up, and lit it off. Timing was lazy. Fun one though, no spout connector! Nowhere on the harness! Well crap. So, ECC-IV's being as smart as an Atari, shut it off, bumped distributor, fired and rechecked. Took a couple tries to land it, but sounded much better.
On the way home, he texted me that it ran, stopped and drove like he wanted. He was very appreciative. The car itself has about 5,000 miles in 10 years, and he just bought it. He's coming from race cars, and this was more a car show cruiser. Now that some of the basics are squared away, hopefully he can shake it down. I think lowering it is next, so it will handle a bit better. We talked about some intake piping for the MAF, but that may wait until he decides how much of what it needs.
That old Craftsman timing light may be older than youIn these situations where I cant set base timing due to ignition module activity at lower rpms, I'll set max timing at 3,500 rpm instead. I will normally start at about 32° on an NA motor and work my way forward or backward from there. I've found that the 5.0 HO motors generally like closer to the 34-36° range. I use an Innova timing light that has a built in timing advance function for doing it this way
That old Craftsman timing light may be older than youI bought it in 1992, my first one with the magic dial. Not the trick digital deal, need to get one with a tach read out...I ended up getting it set at 32 full advance. When I first fired up the motor, the initial was about 5
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Added to the shopping list. It may be a while, but need one. Weird, considering the way things have gone, the ECU in modern stuff does all that. I still plug in the Fox Valley box and a vacuum gauge fairly often.this is the one I use. has the tach readout, 2 and 4 stroke settings, digital advance up to 50 or 60 degree I think. it can also do dwell. I think the only negative I can say about it is it wont start reading until the engine is at least turning about 400 rpm. so you wouldnt be able to set base with the engine off like you can with some others. Surprisingly I use it more for tuning carburetors than I do for setting timing. of course I check the timing so long as i have it out tho
View attachment 1294206
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Innova 5568 Innova Pro Timing Lights | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Innova Pro Timing Lights with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Timing Lights at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
This is the one I have, it's 25 years old but perfect for what I use it for. They can be had on ebaythis is the one I use. has the tach readout, 2 and 4 stroke settings, digital advance up to 50 or 60 degree I think. it can also do dwell. I think the only negative I can say about it is it wont start reading until the engine is at least turning about 400 rpm. so you wouldnt be able to set base with the engine off like you can with some others. Surprisingly I use it more for tuning carburetors than I do for setting timing. of course I check the timing so long as i have it out tho
View attachment 1294206
![]()
Innova 5568 Innova Pro Timing Lights | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Innova Pro Timing Lights with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Timing Lights at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
They are neat but good god Kubota parts for them are expensive. They are tough engines though.A shop I work for had pretty much cut me out. "Too expensive"...more the son took over, and we aren't exactly tight. Oh well, find work elsewhere.
Get a text. A rig they do maintenance on is down. Cute little Kubota 1.1 non-turbo pony motor. They want me to look at it. "OK, no problem".
They say it smokes bad, and runs rough. Smells cooked, so I don't bother running it. Pressure test the cooling system...won't keep any pressure, no water in oil...and then water comes out the exhaust.
"Needs a head"
"Well, tear it down and maybe it's a head gasket"
Sure thing boss. View attachment 1296277
See, cute! Head gasket wasn't the issue...
Go figure. View attachment 1296279 Hmmm, which one to look at...
Head's cracked. Order one up. When doing maintenance, no one ever noticed the gallons of coolant/water in the truck, or didnt bother asking questions. The thing has been losing coolant for months. Could have had everything ready to go. Now it will wait a week or so for parts.
View attachment 1296280
To be honest, I do not know. I'm thinking in the neighborhood of 100-125$? This is under "fleet" type stuff, so that may differ from other stuff they do. "Fleet" is in quotes because it's a loose description...when I think of fleet I picture 50+ vehicles at least. Up here, that would be county and state...not many big outfits.What is that shop charging customers per hour?
Pretty sure this thing has never been apart. Close to 10,000hrs and by guys that I don't think check oil or coolant unless it over heats. Pretty stout little booger.They are neat but good god Kubota parts for them are expensive. They are tough engines though.
Put the head on and set the valves. Prged the injectors and she rumbled a bit, but cleaned out after a few minutes. View attachment 1299466
Shoe box sized crate. Kind of comical. Swapped over hardware before installing.
View attachment 1299467
Valves are supposed to be between .180 and.220 millimeters. I shot for .20mm, and seemed to work.
View attachment 1299468
What sucks, the motor is up in there, behind the radiator. Climb up, shuffle over and then hunch over the thing. Kind of like doing it on the floor.
Once it was purged, fire right up...3 cylinders of untamed fury![]()
That's nothing...usually it's a jungle gymThey couldnt be bothered to clear out the space they knew you'd have to be working in to fix their rig??!
Probably so, but I'm flying under someone else's shop. The insurance is on them, and with this equipment, I don't currently have the funds to do it. That, and this is all fit in here and there stuff...currently still juggling chainsaws at home. Working cheap doesn't pay much, but it's paying enough, I think. This stuff allows me to help around the house, shuttle the youngest around and let my wife have some breaks from the current home and health issues with the older boy. It's not optimal, far from it, but functional.If you are not getting at least $100 per hour, you are robbing yourself.
No one will even bother to crawl into that bullshit for under $200 an hour.
Hell I charge $175 standard shop rate, for any bullshit like that, it would be at least $250 or take it to someone who cares.
Truck stops around me are even higher....
I understand.That's nothing...usually it's a jungle gym View attachment 1299486
This is after clearing off the ladders soI could fit my fat ass between the last drum and through the access door on a different rig.
Probably so, but I'm flying under someone else's shop. The insurance is on them, and with this equipment, I don't currently have the funds to do it. That, and this is all fit in here and there stuff...currently still juggling chainsaws at home. Working cheap doesn't pay much, but it's paying enough, I think. This stuff allows me to help around the house, shuttle the youngest around and let my wife have some breaks from the current home and health issues with the older boy. It's not optimal, far from it, but functional.
At one point, I'd looked at setting up a foam rig for doing insulation. I figured I'd done the same thing with roofing, I know the equipment and can overhaul/maintain it. As I was putting things in place, the situation changed here considerably. So, looked at some other various options doing mechanical stuff. These were going to be more "long term" plans. This was going to include the actual paperwork and computer upgrades needed to basically cut out my "pimps" if you will. I can also do stuff for these companies that they send to the Phoenix, like repacking and resealing proportioners, circuit board swaps and such. I had discussed it with my wife at the beginning of the year. and she was all for it. Well, early spring met us with some changes, and I wasn't able to work much at all. When fall came around, we'd hoped to have the pre-school open for my wife. Well, budgetary constraints, time and opportunity have set things where I am.I understand.
I only wish for you to understand your value. Even as sublet labor, they should be paying you heavily to do their shit work and fuckups.
When you can get to a point to hold firm on your own with a decently funded project for 30-45 days or so, put the knife to all the shops who underpay the local professional.
Raise all your rates to at least $100 an hour across the board. They should be thankful they can call on a trouble shooter like you, not everyone even has that ability.
Trust me, no one will flinch, and those that bitch and take off, make them pay $25 more than your $100 or your current...when they come back, hat in hand.
Trust me, ability and skill is falling like a leaf in a hurricane these days......why do you think they call you? So they can make money off your skills.
Keep it real brother, I only want the best for all us monkeys!![]()
P.S. One of my super high value clients is a wall street giant. He told me raise your fucking rates 5% a year not matter what, and you will be able to be successful.
His advice has been solid. I did not loose a single client, and I am still a bargain at $50 an hour lower than all our local dealers, even more for Euro.
JUST DO IT. RAISE YOUR RATES.![]()
Put the head on and set the valves. Prged the injectors and she rumbled a bit, but cleaned out after a few minutes. View attachment 1299466
Shoe box sized crate. Kind of comical. Swapped over hardware before installing.
View attachment 1299467
Valves are supposed to be between .180 and.220 millimeters. I shot for .20mm, and seemed to work.
View attachment 1299468
What sucks, the motor is up in there, behind the radiator. Climb up, shuffle over and then hunch over the thing. Kind of like doing it on the floor.
Once it was purged, fire right up...3 cylinders of untamed fury![]()
No, it came close, and then there were some issues completely on me. The boss man has been very understanding.Did the monkey mobile ever get finished or did I miss the completed postings.?