WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

Stripped drain plug on a RZR trans… advice?

Deckin Around

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2010
Messages
2,675
Reaction score
6,688
What’s the fix options if someone over tightens the drain plug and it started go from tight to loose as it spun. It’s not completely stripped out, it would probably be fine with just Teflon tape but it has a slow drip leak as is.
Tap it bigger? I don’t really feel like flipping the car over and welding a new aluminum bung to the bottom and I really don’t want to take the transmission out
Asking for a friend.
Thanks
 

Dan Lorenze

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2007
Messages
11,092
Reaction score
14,691
I've had really good luck over the years using a Recoil kits or "Helicoil kit"s, time serts.. Hard to beat fresh Stainless Steel threads. Better than stock.. Not sure if the walls on a RZR transmission are thick enough.. But that's the direction I would head.
 

Deckin Around

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2010
Messages
2,675
Reaction score
6,688
I've had really good luck over the years using a Recoil kits or "Helicoil kit"s, time serts.. Hard to beat fresh Stainless Steel threads. Better than stock.. Not sure if the walls on a RZR transmission are thick enough.. But that's the direction I would head.
Heli coil , time sert , insert , lots of options
For some reason, I was thinking the aluminum case would be different than Steel
 

boatnam2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2007
Messages
13,726
Reaction score
7,319
That happened on mine, I got the socket deal with teeth in it, been a few year but 17mm if I remember right, took it right out.
 

Sharky

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2023
Messages
1,692
Reaction score
6,264
If the threads are not that bad in the case, consider a set of SandCraft drain plugs. They use an O-ring and the head size is all the same for the oil, front diff and transmission.

SandCraft
 

JDKRXW

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
3,062
Reaction score
4,170
What’s the fix options if someone over tightens the drain plug and it started go from tight to loose as it spun. It’s not completely stripped out, it would probably be fine with just Teflon tape but it has a slow drip leak as is.
Tap it bigger? I don’t really feel like flipping the car over and welding a new aluminum bung to the bottom and I really don’t want to take the transmission out
Asking for a friend.
Thanks

First thing I'd try is a longer bolt. Hopefully the threaded section of your drain plug is not as long as thread depth on the oil pan.
I've seen this on a couple of Hondas (bikes and cars)... and a longer shoulder bolt and washer did the trick.
Otherwise - time for a time sert.
 

SPYLIFE

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2018
Messages
240
Reaction score
320
I don't recall if it was the trans or the oil drain, but had this happen where the bolt would snug. (mine was not dripping). I tightened the best it would go, and put silicone all around the bolt to hold in place. The plan was a temp fix, but I never had an issue with it, and ran it that way for at least a year or so.
 

lbhsbz

Putting on the brakes
Joined
Jan 11, 2010
Messages
13,122
Reaction score
33,859
What size is it? (Thread diameter...not wrench size).

If it's already pretty big, it would be better to insert it....but need to know how much material we've got to work with before we can pick the best type of insert...also, how much clearance do we have above the hole (could you thread in a bolt that is 1/2" longer without crashing it into anything inside the trans?).

If it's a small plug..like M10 or something, and there's enough meat and enough "boss" around it to seal against a larger diameter sealing washer...then you might just tap it larger. I prefer drain plugs that use rubber o-rings seals rather than aluminum/copper/fiber washers...threads live longer
 

Ricks raft

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2016
Messages
1,076
Reaction score
1,238
Happened on my quad. Just went with a slightly bigger tap and new bolt. Didn’t even have to drill it out(really soft aluminum). Changed oil multiple time since then.
 

SeanRitchie

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
167
Reaction score
847
Thread is M18x1.5

Helicoil works, there is enough material to work with. Plug has o-ring on it, but will usually not work once you open the hole for the helicoil. Use red or green loctite on the helicoil threads and let it set overnight without plug installed. Then install plug with a little bit of silicone to seal it.
 

Waterjunky

RDP Inmate #94
Joined
Sep 24, 2007
Messages
4,920
Reaction score
4,264
I just did this on my Kawasaki mean streak. Went to change the oil and unscrewed the threads on the housing ....

Helicoil to the rescue. Was a bit of a project with a few complications. The TimeCert is a better way but was pushing $100 for the kit vs $15. The catch is I now need a rubber washer to seal due to the larger hole with the coil.

The irony is that I am selling the bike this spring and that was the last oil change for me. I already own the replacement. If I would have been faster on the repair the bike would have been sold this summer.
 

Hermosa

Pibb + Red Vines = CD
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
450
Reaction score
411
They make a rubber drain plug that had a thin bolt and a wing nut to tighten, bought mine on Amazon, they worked really well. Same concept as a boat drain plug that you tighten. My oil drain plug came stripped from the factory, leaked all over the place went to check it out my first day of ownership and found the fuckery that is Polaris. I didn't trust the dealer to fix it right (Moto United), the rubber drain plug works bitchin, 5500 miles and no issues ever.
 
Top