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Speed UTV - discussion

bentprops

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When you replace the turbo if you are careful you will only lose a few ounces of coolant.. we also did the sensor relocation so we lost a little more. Between both changes I’d estimate it to be around 12 ounces. (I bring this up for a reason)

Because it’s supposed to be freezing cold this weekend we put the windshield back on. I had read somewhere that someone burped the radiator and added some super cool and hadn’t had any issues with overheating after that.

We ended up pouring 3/4 of a bottle of whatever redline calls their glycol mix and ALMOST AN ENTIRE JUG of coolant.. this thing was WAY LOW from the get go..

Final results are the car is making 36 lbs of boost at peak at 9,000 rpm at half to three quarter throttle..

That is a little too much boost and too much rpm. I asked Robby if I might have gotten a hot tune on accident or?? Upside is the car is crazy fast.. lol. Robby replied that it isn’t gonna live forever like that and to bring it in so they can see what’s what.

I’m guessing the clutch spring and removing all but two of the weights is responsible for the rpm. I’m looking for four weights to put back in it to solve that before the weekend (Ken took the weights with him) Speed will look at the boost deal.. could be a couple of different things.

The car is currently over at Morgan motorsports getting prepped for desert bash and I pick it up Friday.

I didn’t get a lot of time to drive it with the windshield on but my hopes are high that the coolant and super cool will solve or mitigate the overheating problem.. if it doesn’t I may add some spacers at the bottom again, and if that doesn’t work a rear windshield is coming next.
Dont use Water wetter, that stuff is crap and turns to gel and looks like you have oil in your water.
 

RiverDave

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God, from reading through this fiasco!! You guys bought POS un tested vehicles. I would never be happy with a Speed vehicle if it overheated, turbos broke, bolts falling out, brake problems. You could of bought some China UTV & had better luck & performance!

The windshield and overheating was mentioned by speed months in advance.. I chose (and many others) to keep the e windshield on the orders and figure it out

Speed is replacing every turbo on every car out there at their own expense. The bolts falling out of the turbo are again part of that same problem.

The brakes you can make an adjustment and it helps considerably. That said hard lines / different brake fluid and some pads will go a long ways.

Everyone that ordered early and got the substantial discount to do so was aware there was going to be bugs to work out. The 25’ish k I saved is worth it to me.

These problems pale in comparison to a arms folding up, bulkhead problems of an x3.. clutches exploding, fires, and a million other things on rzrs..

They all have their bugs to worm out.
 

RiverDave

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Dont use Water wetter, that stuff is crap and turns to gel and looks like you have oil in your water.

The product I used was made by redline.. I can’t remember what it’s called now.

It does seem to make the car run cooler from my very limited time with it.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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The product I used was made by redline.. I can’t remember what it’s called now.

It does seem to make the car run cooler from my very limited time with it.

Same stuff he is referencing. That stuff can gel up at the top of the reservoir a bit or turn brown over time when mixed with some types of coolant. I have never seen any detriments from that though. It just does not look attractive.

I think its running cooler as a function of the system being completely full as opposed to adding the water wetter. I typically run the water wetter with straight water.

I don't use the Redline Stuff anymore. I like the Hy-Per Cool from Wal Mart actually, especially if I'm mixing with coolant.
 
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bentprops

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The product I used was made by redline.. I can’t remember what it’s called now.

It does seem to make the car run cooler from my very limited time with it.
It does work but id use something other the WW, Run it for a while. You'll see what im talking about. You can also just google it and you will see plenty of racing forums discussing it.
 

monkeyswrench

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It does work but id use something other the WW, Run it for a while. You'll see what im talking about. You can also just google it and you will see plenty of racing forums discussing it.
I used to use water soluble oil....old school, but somehow increases the "wetting" capacity or heat transfer. I don't know it worked, but was good for a 10-15 degree drop over straight water. Also, running the bare minimum of antifreeze would help. This is also with "primitive" motors...carbs and iron blocks. I don't know about new stuff like this.
 

COCA COLA COWBOY

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I'm curious if there is room to add a small remote radiator with a fan to help out the cooling issues, or if the current radiator could be enlarged?
 

rivermobster

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Yes there are lock washers on them now.

They won't last long. They Will break.

These will never come loose. I've used em a ton of times...

 

dirtslinger2

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They won't last long. They Will break.

These will never come loose. I've used em a ton of times...

When Ken did my Turbo, he used all Nord Locks on the exhaust and turbo
 

Fast Willy

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1000002595.jpg
 

monkeyswrench

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I've heard that stuff is great. An old guy that built high-end flathead motors told me about it. He was a retired power train engineer for Ford...sharp guy. I was asking him about ways to fight electrolysis...in the old junk it's common to have copper, brass, aluminum, iron and steel, all in contact with coolant. He swore by the stuff.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I'm over that stuff, and would never want that liability out in the bush. Yes it cools slightly better (I mean slightly) but you still need airflow through the radiator for it to work. If it does overheat you can start melting end tanks and splitting modern radiators with plastic end tanks and plastic fittings, like those that come in UTVs.

What isn't said there, is if you do have a leak or boil over, you can't add water, it will negate the stuff, and then you have to do a complete flush of the system @ $50 a gallon.

For preserving old systems that are 100% metal and reducing electrolysis, it is great. We don't have that problem in a modern UTV though.
 
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MonkeyButt70

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Here is something I found interesting from my friends Speed with a windshield and nets. His car was also overheating with the windshield in place. the one thing he noticed was warm air coming in from behind him when he was driving, his theory was that the warm air was circulating from the back towards the front and would return back to the radiators causing a continuous cycle of warm air going over the radiators. For background he does have an extensive offroad race background, so he felt that adding a rear windshield would stop the return cycle of warm air. He built this plexi glass rear windshield and installed it. So far the car has not overheated or had any major fluctuations in temperature, he might be onto something here with it.

Also on another note, these cars are bitchin, I want one with warts and all!

IMG_0539.jpeg
IMG_0540.jpeg
 

monkeyswrench

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Here is something I found interesting from my friends Speed with a windshield and nets. His car was also overheating with the windshield in place. the one thing he noticed was warm air coming in from behind him when he was driving, his theory was that the warm air was circulating from the back towards the front and would return back to the radiators causing a continuous cycle of warm air going over the radiators. For background he does have an extensive offroad race background, so he felt that adding a rear windshield would stop the return cycle of warm air. He built this plexi glass rear windshield and installed it. So far the car has not overheated or had any major fluctuations in temperature, he might be onto something here with it.

Also on another note, these cars are bitchin, I want one with warts and all!

View attachment 1324662 View attachment 1324663
I'm kind of an aerodynamics idiot, but I know there would be a low pressure area created behind the WS. That low pressure area needs to be filled, so if it can grab the warm air easily, that's what it will do. His rear screen will make it pull air from the sides, "clean air"?...at least cooler.
 

Maestro

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What if you raised the radiator stacks. To work with the vortex rather than fight it
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Here is something I found interesting from my friends Speed with a windshield and nets. His car was also overheating with the windshield in place. the one thing he noticed was warm air coming in from behind him when he was driving, his theory was that the warm air was circulating from the back towards the front and would return back to the radiators causing a continuous cycle of warm air going over the radiators. For background he does have an extensive offroad race background, so he felt that adding a rear windshield would stop the return cycle of warm air. He built this plexi glass rear windshield and installed it. So far the car has not overheated or had any major fluctuations in temperature, he might be onto something here with it.

Also on another note, these cars are bitchin, I want one with warts and all!

View attachment 1324662 View attachment 1324663
Yes. That is exactly what I’m planning to do with mine. That makes the fans on the radiator do their job by creating a low pressure area over the bed instead of in the cabin.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I will give an updated report in the next few weeks as he puts on more miles testing. We are planning the AZ peace trail in a few months.

Excellent. Looking forward to it. We are kicking around another Peace Trail lap as well. We just did another couple days out of Laughlin this past weekend.
 

JDub24

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The owner of an old race team I was on used to run class 1ish pre runners as their fun cars and always had issues with overheating. The windshield, shape of the car and all the skid plates wouldn’t allow air to pass through the rear of the car and hit the radiators and they cars would get hot. Big spal fans, water wetter etc wouldn’t fix it. John Cooley (Alumicraft) finally added a low-profile full width roof scoop (think hood scoop) to divert air off the windshield through the roof scoop and pointed directly on the radiators in the back. Fixed it immediately and never looked back. Did a similar set up on the class 10 car they were racing to blow the dust out of the interior and keep the driver/co-driver cool during the hotter races.

Looked something like this but tight to the roof of the car. Didn’t run all the way down like the photo. Just turned down at the c-pillar so it didn’t block the rear view.
 

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rivrrts429

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The owner of an old race team I was on used to run class 1ish pre runners as their fun cars and always had issues with overheating. The windshield, shape of the car and all the skid plates wouldn’t allow air to pass through the rear of the car and hit the radiators and they cars would get hot. Big spal fans, water wetter etc wouldn’t fix it. John Cooley (Alumicraft) finally added a low-profile full width roof scoop (think hood scoop) to divert air off the windshield through the roof scoop and pointed directly on the radiators in the back. Fixed it immediately and never looked back. Did a similar set up on the class 10 car they were racing to blow the dust out of the interior and keep the driver/co-driver cool during the hotter races.

Looked something like this but tight to the roof of the car. Didn’t run all the way down like the photo. Just turned down at the c-pillar so it didn’t block the rear view.


That’s a clean install. I like it and it’s functional.
 

RiverDave

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So it sounds like motors should be in havasu on the 22-23’ish..
 
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