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SCX24 and other mini crawlers

02HoWaRd26

DCBroke
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Who else is into these damn things? We accidentally got into it almost 3 weeks ago, i think crack would’ve been cheaper.
But being it was the boss lady’s idea it’s been a lot of fun as a family.


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77charger

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I had a slash I would take to glamis for camp fun. But always go to rough for it.

Friends had crawlers and they always made a course and had easy fun. So I sold slash and bought a redcat 1/10 crawler and for me it’s more useful. Out a light on it for night too.
 

attitude

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Yup, my oldest and I each have one. I also bought him the trailer so he’s can tow stuff around.
 

Cousineddy

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I definitely have a problem with mini crawlers, just built these two last week, white one is redcat ascent 18 with brushless and tons of upgrades, orange is furytek katana. Lots of 1/10 crawlers as well
 

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lavey jr

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I love them!
I’ve always been into the fast RC cars growing up and I still love them.
My brother bought my 4 year old daughter (now 5 yr old) a Gladiator SCX24 and she loved it so I bought my wife and I one.
That turned into the typical RC car full build rabbit hole and my wifes car ended up the best one out of all of ours.
For me, it’s a ton more mentally engaging driving these cars trying to figure out the most strategic path to crawl up things. It’s also great for my daughter because she can drive it and not wreck every 5 seconds.
If you’re in the SoCal area, near Canyon Lake, I know a bad ass spot. Its not public but all it takes is some messaging and scheduling to drive at the course (it’s at a guys house). I go almost every weekend.
Our fleet consists of;
SCX24 Gladiator, basic mods off Amazon brass kit, wheels/tires
SCX24 Deadbolt, Amazon brass kit, extended wheelbase, shocks, motor upgrade, e max servo, wheels/tires
AX24 4 wheel steer, extended wheelbase, brass kit, portal axles, shocks, e max servo front/rear, motor upgrade, iceberg RC body, wheels tires.

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lavey jr

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Thanks a lot! Something else I didn’t realize I needed. Started looking on Amazon and talk about a rabbit hole. Aaaarggg

Best part about these mini’s is that when you want to be lazy and sit on the couch you can drive them all over in the house!
After I got mine I found myself looking at random things around the neighborhood debating if it would be a nice RC crawl spot haha you can turn just about anything into a crawling feature
 

77charger

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Best part about these mini’s is that when you want to be lazy and sit on the couch you can drive them all over in the house!
After I got mine I found myself looking at random things around the neighborhood debating if it would be a nice RC crawl spot haha you can turn just about anything into a crawling feature
That’s what I like about them when camping we’ll climb the fire pit rocks or the wood piles. If in desert and there’s rocks we’ll grab a couple beers walk over and start crawling.
 

bilz

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You guys. Starting to feel the bug. Descent starter, car radio ready to roll? Is amazon the best place to start.
 

attitude

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You guys. Starting to feel the bug. Descent starter, car radio ready to roll? Is amazon the best place to start.
Axial or Traxxas 1/24 scale, they start around $100 and the mods are endless.
 

Cole Trickle

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I have been into 1/10 crawleres for a while but need to pick up a couple of the little guys as i think it will make packing for a camping trip much easier.

I have a couple of the Kyosho min z's that the kid and I would go race at the Local hobby shop but they stopped doing that and we just don't use them around the house so time to sell for some crawlers.
 

lavey jr

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You guys. Starting to feel the bug. Descent starter, car radio ready to roll? Is amazon the best place to start.

Ready to roll 100%
Car with electronics, remote, AA batteries for the remote, lipo battery with charger that’s not great but works fine but be sure to plug it into the wall first or else you’ll fry something because it’s cheap and the battery will back feed into the charger.
I haven’t bought an RTR car in over a decade so when I opened the box and saw it came with the AA batteries I was pleasantly surprised.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Thanks a lot! Something else I didn’t realize I needed. Started looking on Amazon and talk about a rabbit hole. Aaaarggg
It’s so awesome cause nearly everything is 20$ but it’ll 20$ you to death lol.
You guys. Starting to feel the bug. Descent starter, car radio ready to roll? Is amazon the best place to start.
Literally as said, the cars are absolutely rtr after 20 minute charge. The JLU and Bronco have a shorter wheelbase, the Gladiator is a bit longer. The guys at the shop pushed me at the gladiator, but the wife’s JLU actually seems to do better, less high centering.
Best part about these mini’s is that when you want to be lazy and sit on the couch you can drive them all over in the house!
After I got mine I found myself looking at random things around the neighborhood debating if it would be a nice RC crawl spot haha you can turn just about anything into a crawling feature
I see rocks with slope or different edges and literally pick them up. I’ve tried the stop the car thing but that is what will make the wife no longer wanna do it.
 

02HoWaRd26

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IMG_7686.jpeg

The boy’s black gladiator:
43mm shocks
MRC skid and high clearance links and brass knuckles
Coda brass diff covers (painted blue)
6mm wider axle shafts in stock housings.
62mm tires on 1.2” beadlocks
Emax digital servo

Wife’s green JLU:
Black and brass Injora links
Reef 99 brass servo
RCLions 43mm shocks
Injora brass steering linkage, front rear brass diff covers, & hubs
Proline +4mm extended axle shafts with 10g weights on each corner.
LGRP brass wheels and 63mm black labels, servo mounted limit straps, 30%overdriven front gears and purple 50t motor

My white Gladiator:
LGRP super 8 axles, wheels and 63mm black labels, purple 50t motor, servo mounted limit straps.
Injora links, and 43mm shocks. And I’m sure I’m missing a few more items.

Would love to see what parts others are using.
 

lavey jr

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View attachment 1361180
The boy’s black gladiator:
43mm shocks
MRC skid and high clearance links and brass knuckles
Coda brass diff covers (painted blue)
6mm wider axle shafts in stock housings.
62mm tires on 1.2” beadlocks
Emax digital servo

Wife’s green JLU:
Black and brass Injora links
Reef 99 brass servo
RCLions 43mm shocks
Injora brass steering linkage, front rear brass diff covers, & hubs
Proline +4mm extended axle shafts with 10g weights on each corner.
LGRP brass wheels and 63mm black labels, servo mounted limit straps, 30%overdriven front gears and purple 50t motor

My white Gladiator:
LGRP super 8 axles, wheels and 63mm black labels, purple 50t motor, servo mounted limit straps.
Injora links, and 43mm shocks. And I’m sure I’m missing a few more items.

Would love to see what parts others are using.

Gladiator
This is my daughters $100 budget build and it’s extremely reliable and can do mostly everything my fully modded cars can do.
-Amazon brass kit. Knuckles, hex extensions, diff covers.
-Injora brass skid plate
-E max servo

Deadbolt
Wife’s car. She picked the parts with my recommendations.
-Extended wheel base in the front.
Used the rear links from a C10 SCX24.
-Amazon brass kit; knuckles, front/rear diff covers, hex extensions.
-E max servo
-Injora 050 50T purple motor
-Injora brass steering links
-Injora brass skid plate
-Injora brass beadlock wheels
-Injora 1.0 58mm swamp claw tires
-Injora 18% overdrive gears in the front
-RcLions 48mm double barrel shocks
-Grizzly Works RC flex blades front/rear

My AX24 build. Extended wheelbase. Decided to do what I consider a complete full build but keep it as close to a “stock” chassis and “stock” electronics nothing super fancy.

Links I used to make it all work are all OGRC high clearance;
Rear - deadbolt lower mounted on lower, C10 front lower mounted upside down on upper
Front - C10 rear lower mounted on lower, C10 front upper mounted on upper.
Injora 51mm double barrel shocks.
I relocated the front shock mounting to the chassis and the rear I mounted it to the body mount and this ended up perfect with no binding
Diy limit straps with my daughter’s rubber band hair ties on the front/rear.

Chassis - Injora carbon fiber side plates with the extra shock mount holes and extra link holes so that helped to get the link length/geometry to work better. Since I am not using any stock location for shock mounting I ended up cutting the section of chassis off that had the shock hole mounts because I had clearance issues and didn’t need them.

Axles - Treal portal with brass inner portal cover steering knuckles front/rear.

Driveshafts - stock axial drive shafts kit and mixed/matched till I found the correct length and trimmed to fit.

Other misc upgrades;
-Body, Iceberg RC Pearson P1.
-Emax servo front/rear.
-Injora 050 50T motor. Purple.
-Injora wheels with Injora 62x22mm tires.
-Injora brass steering links on front only.
-Injora adjustable steering linkage on rear.
-Injora 23% overdrive gears on front. This was absolutely mandatory. With the added wheelbase the car had major under steer even when using the 4ws.
-Injora brass skid plate.
-Treal extra heavy diff cover on front.
-Amazon generic brass parts, hex wheel weights, diff cover on rear.
-I also cut open the front of the battery tray to allow me to slide the battery forward to better bias my weight forward.

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02HoWaRd26

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Slowly been adding more to our course.
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If anyone is interested i have this Redcat it’s bone stock and has maybe 2-3 minutes of driving on it, I’ll take 80$ for it.
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Cousineddy

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I’m building an indoor layout for the mini crawlers at my son’s hobby shop, lotsa purple foam, spray foam and Dryvit. Starting the water feature today, hopefully get some done this afternoon.
 

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intense

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View attachment 1361180
The boy’s black gladiator:
43mm shocks
MRC skid and high clearance links and brass knuckles
Coda brass diff covers (painted blue)
6mm wider axle shafts in stock housings.
62mm tires on 1.2” beadlocks
Emax digital servo

Wife’s green JLU:
Black and brass Injora links
Reef 99 brass servo
RCLions 43mm shocks
Injora brass steering linkage, front rear brass diff covers, & hubs
Proline +4mm extended axle shafts with 10g weights on each corner.
LGRP brass wheels and 63mm black labels, servo mounted limit straps, 30%overdriven front gears and purple 50t motor

My white Gladiator:
LGRP super 8 axles, wheels and 63mm black labels, purple 50t motor, servo mounted limit straps.
Injora links, and 43mm shocks. And I’m sure I’m missing a few more items.

Would love to see what parts others are using.
are these 1/10 scale?
 

Orange Juice

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There was a day not too long ago, we could afford to build real crawlers. 😉
 

SmilesPerGallon

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Who else is into these damn things? We accidentally got into it almost 3 weeks ago, i think crack would’ve been cheaper.
But being it was the boss lady’s idea it’s been a lot of fun as a family.


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What wheels are on the white Gladiator?!
 

02HoWaRd26

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What wheels are on the white Gladiator?!
It has the LGRP cyclones. I actually just swapped them from the grey to the raw machined. Bought the machined for another build and it didn’t look right so put on the gladiator and actually looks way better raw on it than the grey. New build will be 100% LGRP but even the others I’ve found that their products are my favorite.

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Badchoices03

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Gladiator
This is my daughters $100 budget build and it’s extremely reliable and can do mostly everything my fully modded cars can do.
-Amazon brass kit. Knuckles, hex extensions, diff covers.
-Injora brass skid plate
-E max servo

Deadbolt
Wife’s car. She picked the parts with my recommendations.
-Extended wheel base in the front.
Used the rear links from a C10 SCX24.
-Amazon brass kit; knuckles, front/rear diff covers, hex extensions.
-E max servo
-Injora 050 50T purple motor
-Injora brass steering links
-Injora brass skid plate
-Injora brass beadlock wheels
-Injora 1.0 58mm swamp claw tires
-Injora 18% overdrive gears in the front
-RcLions 48mm double barrel shocks
-Grizzly Works RC flex blades front/rear

My AX24 build. Extended wheelbase. Decided to do what I consider a complete full build but keep it as close to a “stock” chassis and “stock” electronics nothing super fancy.

Links I used to make it all work are all OGRC high clearance;
Rear - deadbolt lower mounted on lower, C10 front lower mounted upside down on upper
Front - C10 rear lower mounted on lower, C10 front upper mounted on upper.
Injora 51mm double barrel shocks.
I relocated the front shock mounting to the chassis and the rear I mounted it to the body mount and this ended up perfect with no binding
Diy limit straps with my daughter’s rubber band hair ties on the front/rear.

Chassis - Injora carbon fiber side plates with the extra shock mount holes and extra link holes so that helped to get the link length/geometry to work better. Since I am not using any stock location for shock mounting I ended up cutting the section of chassis off that had the shock hole mounts because I had clearance issues and didn’t need them.

Axles - Treal portal with brass inner portal cover steering knuckles front/rear.

Driveshafts - stock axial drive shafts kit and mixed/matched till I found the correct length and trimmed to fit.

Other misc upgrades;
-Body, Iceberg RC Pearson P1.
-Emax servo front/rear.
-Injora 050 50T motor. Purple.
-Injora wheels with Injora 62x22mm tires.
-Injora brass steering links on front only.
-Injora adjustable steering linkage on rear.
-Injora 23% overdrive gears on front. This was absolutely mandatory. With the added wheelbase the car had major under steer even when using the 4ws.
-Injora brass skid plate.
-Treal extra heavy diff cover on front.
-Amazon generic brass parts, hex wheel weights, diff cover on rear.
-I also cut open the front of the battery tray to allow me to slide the battery forward to better bias my weight forward.

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My son and I go to that same place, he has the C10 (modded) and the XC-1 (stock), I have the Bronco (modded) and Deadbolt (stock)....it all started with just buying him the C10....I also have the Capra 1/18 which a cool size between the micro and 1/10 scales...

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lavey jr

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My son and I go to that same place, he has the C10 (modded) and the XC-1 (stock), I have the Bronco (modded) and Deadbolt (stock)....it all started with just buying him the C10....I also have the Capra 1/18 which a cool size between the micro and 1/10 scales...

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Nice that’s awesome!
My next crawler will most likely be the UTB18

Unfortunately, that section of the course is no longer usable. At least as of a few months ago. It’s been taken down, that property was owned by someone else.
He has added and built more crawl sections in front of his house. He’s asked to message him first to setup a day to drive it but he still plans to keep it open to the public, with notification first.
 

Badchoices03

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Nice that’s awesome!
My next crawler will most likely be the UTB18

Unfortunately, that section of the course is no longer usable. At least as of a few months ago. It’s been taken down, that property was owned by someone else.
He has added and built more crawl sections in front of his house. He’s asked to message him first to setup a day to drive it but he still plans to keep it open to the public, with notification first.
Oh that sucks, it’s has been a few months since I’ve been there, even though it’s like 10 min from me, there’s another spot by Diamond Valley Lake that we’ve been to as well
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Warlock1

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Dammit, you guys are going to get me into something else I will need to spend money on.....
 

Good Stuff

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So now I want one of these. 😂😂
I like the more scale look of the hardbodies. It looks like the $160 TRX4M is geared fast but has oil filled shocks and better body mounting, $130 SCX24 has better gearing, interior, and lights. Any of you guys have input? Could probably put the $30+tx difference into oil filled shocks and ditching the Velcro on the SCX.
 

02HoWaRd26

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So now I want one of these. 😂😂
I like the more scale look of the hardbodies. It looks like the $160 TRX4M is geared fast but has oil filled shocks and better body mounting, $130 SCX24 has better gearing, interior, and lights. Any of you guys have input? Could probably put the $30+tx difference into oil filled shocks and ditching the Velcro on the SCX.
The Velcro is way better than body pins. They’re so small the pins are a serious pita, i converted to Velcro on two of ours. Double barrel shocks as well are the way to go so far imho. The aftermarket parts for the scx24 is so vast vs the Traxxas as well imho. Here’s a video i watched today, showing how bad ass the right setup is.
 

riverroyal

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Not sure if this will upload. But just saw this a hour ago. Unbelievable time put into these
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Badchoices03

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The Velcro is way better than body pins. They’re so small the pins are a serious pita, i converted to Velcro on two of ours. Double barrel shocks as well are the way to go so far imho. The aftermarket parts for the scx24 is so vast vs the Traxxas as well imho. Here’s a video i watched today, showing how bad ass the right setup is.
View attachment 1372317
Double barrels are the way to go, they took a little fine tuning, but got great articulation after some trial and error…also I got rid of body pins and velcro and went with magnetic mounts on all our trucks
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