RV - would you go All electric?

[Singleton]

Wife got convinced to sell truck and ToyHauler and upgrade into a RV this weekend. I then told her, I was planning 10k in power upgrades in the trailer (new batteries, inverter/charger and solar). 1k in window tinting, 2k in custom racking so 2 RZR’s can fit plus some other little things. She said why are we spending 15k. Let’s sell it now vs waiting 4 years like we planned. Plus the 90 minute camp setup and wearing her out .

So the journey to our next RV begins.

Looking at the Valencia 36SB or the Verona 36VSB.

While the Verona has some huge upgrades (chassis, engine, etc.), it is 100% electric. I am not sold on that when we desert camp every 3rd weekend October through March. Plus I hear good and bad about the AquaHot 250D.

Thoughts from the inmates

 

[Snorre]

What do you do after the warranty period if the battery no longer delivers enough power and the dealer says $50,000 for a new battery? That would be a total loss

 

[rivrrts429]

Both lines are nice. I recently looked at a 40VBH. Seems like a nice line. I’m a huge fan of diesel pullers rather than pushers.

My neighbor has a 36 and he loves it. They’re strictly Glamis campers. The only negative is that he can’t seem to keep the front windshield sealed. It keeps popping out its frame work. He damn near has a windshield company repairing after every trip.

All electric would be a no go for me. I like having options.

 

[Singleton]

What do you do after the warranty period if the battery no longer delivers enough power and the dealer says $50,000 for a new battery? That would be a total loss

RV batteries are not 50k.
I would say 1200 to 1500 each.
Not too worried about the cost - more worried about will an all electric coach work for extended stays in dirt

 

[ArizonaKevin]

What do you do after the warranty period if the battery no longer delivers enough power and the dealer says $50,000 for a new battery? That would be a total loss

In what world are coach batteries $50k?

We have some all electric coaches in our group, the only complaints I have heard are related to cooking on an electric cooktop. Also, the aquahot is another thing to add to your yearly service to ensure that the burner is still burning clean.

 

[paradise]

RV batteries are not 50k.
I would say 1200 to 1500 each.
Not too worried about the cost - more worried about will an all electric coach work for extended stays in dirt

All electric is fine, the reality is you’ll probably be running the generator nearly all the time regardless. In the winter the aquahot heating with diesel is super nice.

For your chassis choice, I would strongly recommend the m2 over the s2. That would be the Verona for Renegade or the ForceHD, DX3 or XL for Dynamax. We’ve got three Dynamax coaches in our group and all are really nice. Two all electric and mine is propane for heating and cooking but still a residential fridge and Lithium. I love mine, and the newer all electrics.

 

[JayBreww]

In what world are coach batteries $50k?

We have some all electric coaches in our group, the only complaints I have heard are related to cooking on an electric cooktop. Also, the aquahot is another thing to add to your yearly service to ensure that the burner is still burning clean.

Think he thinks it’s full electric, no diesel or gas engine.

I would just bring a generator as well to run off of.

 

[Snorre]

In what world are coach batteries $50k?

We have some all electric coaches in our group, the only complaints I have heard are related to cooking on an electric cooktop. Also, the aquahot is another thing to add to your yearly service to ensure that the burner is still burning clean.

ah ok, a problem with understanding, I thought it was an electrically powered vehicle

 

[wallnutz]

Ours is all electric, never run out of propane. You might just have to run the generator a little more if you don't have enough solar. We sometimes go for a week or longer to Glamis or camping in the forest. Now the Aqua Hot 250 that's a whole different story. Have about $600 in parts and labor now on mine and it is still showing a fault. I know the newer 250's have the upgraded stuff and are supposed to be better.

Added, make sure the on board generator has enough to power everything at once. We have a 10k and it will power all 3 ac's and other stuff all at once. Our friends with a smaller genny can only run two ac's at a time, they switch back and forth.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

My parents have a 5th wheel that has a relatively large solar system on it. Once my dad got it dialed in (nobody at the dealership they bought it from knew how to work on the solar system) Its been pretty good. The 12v fridge has been great (he was concerned about it) and in the winter he didn't have to use the generator at all for a long weekend in the desert. However, he doesn't run the AC or heat off the batteries as that would suck them dry REAL quick (I don't remember his battery sizes, but they are larger than standard LiPo's but definitely not the largest available either). Personally, I wouldn't go all electric. If the system isn't large enough to run all systems in the RV for 4 hours and recharge the batteries in about the same time, it doesn't make too much sense cause I hate the thought of having to have a generator running through the night or just about all day to use the trailer.

But that is just me. When I go to the desert, I really hate being with people that run theirs 24/7. What is the point of camping out there then?

 

[Singleton]

My parents have a 5th wheel that has a relatively large solar system on it. Once my dad got it dialed in (nobody at the dealership they bought it from knew how to work on the solar system) Its been pretty good. The 12v fridge has been great (he was concerned about it) and in the winter he didn't have to use the generator at all for a long weekend in the desert. However, he doesn't run the AC or heat off the batteries as that would suck them dry REAL quick (I don't remember his battery sizes, but they are larger than standard LiPo's but definitely not the largest available either). Personally, I wouldn't go all electric. If the system isn't large enough to run all systems in the RV for 4 hours and recharge the batteries in about the same time, it doesn't make too much sense cause I hate the thought of having to have a generator running through the night or just about all day to use the trailer.

But that is just me. When I go to the desert, I really hate being with people that run theirs 24/7. What is the point of camping out there then?

Bingo.
I dislike running my genny when camping.
90 minutes in and am, 90 minute in the evening is the max we do.

 

[Snorre]

With enough power on the roof it works well

 

[Singleton]

All electric is fine, the reality is you’ll probably be running the generator nearly all the time regardless. In the winter the aquahot heating with diesel is super nice.

For your chassis choice, I would strongly recommend the m2 over the s2. That would be the Verona for Renegade or the ForceHD, DX3 or XL for Dynamax. We’ve got three Dynamax coaches in our group and all are really nice. Two all electric and mine is propane for heating and cooking but still a residential fridge and Lithium. I love mine, and the newer all electrics.

I really like the benefits of the M2.
The 65k difference in price is another thing.

 

[Done-it-again]

My parents have a fully electric Allegro Bus. It works well, but also do not dry camp and would say the battery's do drain quickly when not plugged in if stored as there is always a draw somewhere. I wouldn't shy away but would add 4-5 solar panels to help to offset the genny if dry camping often

Cooking on the induction cook top takes getting used too, but does boil water fast and needs special pans/pots for it. I don't think you can run the cook top on the inverter though.

AquaHot is nice for endless hot water and its used for heat as well, but it something that needs to be serviced. Just don't camp near a 1/4 tank as there is a shut off like the genny when fuel is low.

 

[paradise]

I really like the benefits of the M2.
The 65k difference in price is another thing.

Are you looking new? There are some great deals on used stuff right now vs a year ago.

Not sure how much you tow, but having the additional chassis GVWR available is a huge peace of mind. Not to mention you're getting a real medium duty engine and running gear. 350HP out of an ISL9 is not even breaking a sweat

 

[rivermobster]

Wife got convinced to sell truck and ToyHauler and upgrade into a RV this weekend. I then told her, I was planning 10k in power upgrades in the trailer (new batteries, inverter/charger and solar). 1k in window tinting, 2k in custom racking so 2 RZR’s can fit plus some other little things. She said why are we spending 15k. Let’s sell it now vs waiting 4 years like we planned. Plus the 90 minute camp setup and wearing her out .

So the journey to our next RV begins.

Looking at the Valencia 36SB or the Verona 36VSB.

While the Verona has some huge upgrades (chassis, engine, etc.), it is 100% electric. I am not sold on that when we desert camp every 3rd weekend October through March. Plus I hear good and bad about the AquaHot 250D.

Thoughts from the inmates

A Honda generator and a long power cable, is a lot more cost effective.

Let's say you go dry camping for a week or so in the dead of winter, and it's cloudy the whole time you are out there?

The Honda will keep you warm all week. Especially if it starts snowing.

And also remember...

Even if it IS sunny, the sun is low in the sky. Solar panels need direct sun. Camping in the trees is also an issue with solar.

So all electric? Nope. Not for me. The Remote Honda works everywhere.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Bingo.
I dislike running my genny when camping.
90 minutes in and am, 90 minute in the evening is the max we do.

Yeah, I wasn't even sold (and neither was my dad) on the idea of the 12v Fridge, but that seems to be doing ok for them when dry camping (and they do a LOT of dry camping. He is the only guy I have met that has worn out tires on his trailer due to using it so much).'

A large solar system with correct controller/inverter/charger is wonderful, but I would NEVER be without gas for heat and a generator or hook ups for the AC if needed. I have heard fantastic things about the Furion tankless systems. I'd do that over any of the other fancy systems out there.

 

[ArizonaKevin]

Are you looking new? There are some great deals on used stuff right now vs a year ago.

Not sure how much you tow, but having the additional chassis GVWR available is a huge peace of mind. Not to mention you're getting a real medium duty engine and running gear. 350HP out of an ISL9 is not even breaking a sweat

Agreed that I would be empowered to look used, especially right now. The RV market is seriously softening after everyone who made a COVID impulse buy doesn't want to keep making the payment, storage, maintenance etc. Going used may also allow you to upgrade to a Cascadia chassis. Have heard from a few people that the M2 Chassis is rather rough riding compared to the Cascadia, if memory serves Walt @ONE-A-DAY was in that camp as well.

 

[wallnutz]

A Honda generator and a long power cable, is a lot more cost effective.

Let's say you go dry camping for a week or so in the dead of winter, and it's cloudy the whole time you are out there?

The Honda will keep you warm all week. Especially if it starts snowing.

And also remember...

Even if it IS sunny, the sun is low in the sky. Solar panels need direct sun. Camping in the trees is also an issue with solar.

So all electric? Nope. Not for me. The Remote Honda works everywhere.

Wouldn't that still be all electric?

 

[rivermobster]

Wouldn't that still be all electric?

The OP is considering 10k in solar upgrades to power his coach, that will be unreliable power at best.

Id rather have a small remote generator and propane.

I've never run out of propane, or gas for the generator. Rain or shine, it just works.

 

[HB2Havasu]

No Way I would be buying a new RV right now. Chances are the prices are going to plummet in the next 18 months.

 

[paradise]

The OP is considering 10k in solar upgrades to power his coach, that will be unreliable power at best.

Id rather have a small remote generator and propane.

I've never run out of propane, or gas for the generator. Rain or shine, it just works.

In this class he is talking about, all electric just means no propane. That means a residential fridge, electric cooktop and Aquahot (Electric and Diesel) for water heating and house heating. Most of those coaches are not really designed for boondocking without solar upgrades or long periods of running the generator (they all have nice Onan diesel gensets).

If you don't need AC during the day you should be (speaking in broad generalities) OK with the factory upgrade lithium/solar options for running your refer and misc items during the day on 2-3 hours of generator runtime. Night heating you would just select diesel burning for your Aquahot and you should be fine on battery.

If you need AC, you really need much larger solar (and you're still only going to get one AC) or you run your generator all day.

My .02

 

[Done-it-again]

No Way I would be buying a new RV right now. Chances are the prices are going to plummet in the next 18 months.

People said that 18 months ago.....

 

[Singleton]

Are you looking new? There are some great deals on used stuff right now vs a year ago.

Not sure how much you tow, but having the additional chassis GVWR available is a huge peace of mind. Not to mention you're getting a real medium duty engine and running gear. 350HP out of an ISL9 is not even breaking a sweat

Looking at both.
Some folks think their used rig, is worth more then new

 

[RiverDave]

RV batteries are not 50k.
I would say 1200 to 1500 each.
Not too worried about the cost - more worried about will an all electric coach work for extended stays in dirt

You can always start the generator.. may not always have propane?

 

[ArizonaKevin]

People said that 18 months ago.....

I wouldn't say it's plummeted over the last 18 months, but definitely softened over the last 18 months

 

[dezertrider]

We went all electric and love it. Having a residential fridge was a game changer for the wife. I added as much solar as possible on our rig and its been great. We had one issue with our Aqua Hot that was fixed with a new water pump.

The one option I will get in every RV in the future will be heated floors. We camp mostly in the winter time and having warm floors to walk on is great. They warm up the entire coach so the heater does not run as much

 

[RiverDave]

People said that 18 months ago.....

They kind of have? Except on the ones I want.. lol

 

[Done-it-again]

I wouldn't say it's plummeted over the last 18 months, but definitely softened over the last 18 months

They kind of have? Except on the ones I want.. lol

My point was, 18 months ago people were saying its going to plummet... 18 moths later they haven't plummet, but what we have seen is a correction from the ultra high non negotiation sales price.

 

[Singleton]

No Way I would be buying a new RV right now. Chances are the prices are going to plummet in the next 18 months.

Depends on brand.
Renegade cut production numbers, so the demand is the same and price points are not dropping.

Higher volume RV manufactures are cutting costs to move inventory

 

[spark2678]

We have an all electric coach. I have 800W of solar with 600AH of LifePO4 batteries and will be adding 1 more 250W panel (possibly (1) more 200AH battery too). I dry camp in Glamis, sometimes for a week, no issues with the all electric. I usually run it in the morning for 1-2 hours. Then in the evening before bed 1-2 hours.

 

[2Driver]

Let's say you go dry camping for a week or so in the dead of winter, and it's cloudy the whole time you are out there?

Or you just say, shit it's the dead of winter and the weather is going to suck,
why are we going camping.

Ill be done building my offroad/grid RV by end of July. It doesn't have a generator at all and I doubt Ill ever need it, then again it doesn't have central AC either.

The best thing to do is to really understand and document the math of the system and how you intend to use power ( storage, draw and input) in order to figure out if its going to work for you. Assuming you always arrive topped off from the RV, if you can get by most of the time off electric with a few bumps from a genset every few days that would be nice. If heat and hot water are from a fuel thats even better.

 

[DILLIGAF]

My rig I got rid of a couple of years ago had a dual use fridge as well as elec or propane water heater. I had an engineer design and implement a 2400w solar set up on the roof with 500AH of lithium batteries which today would be probably 1000AH if I did it again just because of the 200AH batteries probably my choice and I had 5.

My theory was to be off grid and run elec however, the reality is that being off grid across the USA isn't that easy when you have a 42' 5th wheel. I spent a lot of money but never got that cost back which I thought I would by not having to stay in RV parks. When I needed heat I ran electric space heaters and not via the coach's propane heater.

Everybody has a different situation and application.

Sounds like it could work for you. Regardless of my setup I still liked the option of turning on the propane. The propane heat of the water heater worked much better than the electric option as well as the fridge.

Theory and reality are two different things and as Mark indicated its a math equation on consumption and efficiency to dial it in.

#####EDIT.....I also had a on board genset when needed

 

[Flying_Lavey]

We have an all electric coach. I have 800W of solar thought and will be adding 1 more panel. I dry camp in Glamis, sometimes for a week, no issues with the all electric. I usually run it in the morning for 1-2 hours. Then in the evening before bed 1-2 hours.

What are you using for heat? In the winter that definitely is the biggest consumer of electricity. You only have so much water that you can heat. lol!

 

[bilz]

Don't forget quiet hours in most developed campgrounds. Low batteries, snow on the roof, you are kind of screwed unless you want to be that guy.

 

[spark2678]

What are you using for heat? In the winter that definitely is the biggest consumer of electricity. You only have so much water that you can heat. lol!

Aquahot 450D, it doesn't draw anything. Have to maintain it every year though.

With the aquahot there are 3 zones with fan coils, they don't draw much either.

 

[Waterjunky]

This is an interesting discussion. in the super C class, (I have a 17 Jayco), its a real question. I've looked at slowly converting over. Basically everything could be ran off the batteries except the AC. The stoves and such all could be easily powered via the inverter. If you are cooking for a truly extended time or want AC then fire the Genny that sips from the primary fuel tanks. The boiler style heat like Aqua Hot and a few other brands provide endless heat and hot water. The primary heat is poor and very noisy already so its on my hit list. The instant hot water is terrible also. The bathroom sink does not flow enough to get it to light, and the shower is temperamental at best. my understanding is its non adjustable and this is about normal for performance for the unit. The Fridge is easy with a residential.

I have been looking at drifting this direction for a few reason. I am looking at a serious solar set on the roof and will probably be springing for lithium batteries next time I need to replace. The propane tank in mine from the factory is something stupid like 15 or 18 gal. This means I'm constantly filling when using it for primary heat. The tiny tank takes an entire compartment that I could easily repurpose into something useful.

If I was buying a new unit I would totally go electric at this point.

 

[Waterjunky]

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This would just fit in the compartment where the current instant hot water is located in my unit. Supposedly they are much more reliable than AquaHot but still suggest annual maintenance. I wouldn't mind a size bigger but then I have packaging issues.

If anyone is running one, I would love some real feedback. All this said, My unit is not designed for conditions below freezing. I cracked a fitting last year near death valley when we had a storm come through and temperatures crashed into the teens.

 

[wallnutz]

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This would just fit in the compartment where the current instant hot water is located in my unit. Supposedly they are much more reliable than AquaHot but still suggest annual maintenance. I wouldn't mind a size bigger but then I have packaging issues.

If anyone is running one, I would love some real feedback. All this said, My unit is not designed for conditions below freezing. I cracked a fitting last year near death valley when we had a storm come through and temperatures crashed into the teens.

It's more reliable than the AH 250D, the AH 450D is really reliable and is basically the same as what you posted. They all need yearly maintenance, but that's really easy to do.

 

[Jonas Grumby]

Wife got convinced to sell truck and ToyHauler and upgrade into a RV this weekend. I then told her, I was planning 10k in power upgrades in the trailer (new batteries, inverter/charger and solar). 1k in window tinting, 2k in custom racking so 2 RZR’s can fit plus some other little things. She said why are we spending 15k. Let’s sell it now vs waiting 4 years like we planned. Plus the 90 minute camp setup and wearing her out .

So the journey to our next RV begins.

Looking at the Valencia 36SB or the Verona 36VSB.

While the Verona has some huge upgrades (chassis, engine, etc.), it is 100% electric. I am not sold on that when we desert camp every 3rd weekend October through March. Plus I hear good and bad about the AquaHot 250D.

Thoughts from the inmates

I’m researching for solar on a used Class A myself. 200watt panels are $329 each, A Victron controller is $300. Lifepo4 batteries 280ah are $650. Since the MH I am looking at has a residential fridge, it already has a 2000w inverter and 4- 6v batteries. So I’m thinking about $2k for a pretty good setup. I could probably just do the solar panels and controller for now and get the lithium battery s down the line,

 

[Bowtiepower00]

I’m researching for solar on a used Class A myself. 200watt panels are $329 each, A Victron controller is $300. Lifepo4 batteries 280ah are $650. Since the MH I am looking at has a residential fridge, it already has a 2000w inverter and 4- 6v batteries. So I’m thinking about $2k for a pretty good setup. I could probably just do the solar panels and controller for now and get the lithium battery s down the line,

There are some good sales around Black Friday on the lithium batteries- and the rest of the solar stuff for that matter.

 

[RogerThat99]

My RV has Furion 12v fridge and 12v tankless water heater. I was sceptical about both. The fridge is much larger, and cools down much faster (at startup after storage) than my old 110/propane fridge. The 12v tankless water heater is awesome also. The only issue is it seems to take more water to get to hot water, than the old water heater with a tank. But that is only a factor when dry camping.

My heater is still 12v and propane, so I can't speak to that. I do have an electric space heater in the fireplace, that really heats the whole trailer when hooked to shore power. I rarely dry camp, so none of the "negatives" really come into play for me.

 

[1tonfun]

Just make sure what you buy has air ride on the rear suspension. Many of the m2 chassis come with leaf springs and they ride rough.

 

[Singleton]

I’m researching for solar on a used Class A myself. 200watt panels are $329 each, A Victron controller is $300. Lifepo4 batteries 280ah are $650. Since the MH I am looking at has a residential fridge, it already has a 2000w inverter and 4- 6v batteries. So I’m thinking about $2k for a pretty good setup. I could probably just do the solar panels and controller for now and get the lithium battery s down the line,

The system I had scoped included
2 lithium batteries - 600ah each
Victron 3000w inverter/charger
1120w solar
Victron monitoring system
Victron smart shunt

installation was not cheap

 

[CLdrinker]

People said that 18 months ago.....

Houses too. Shit I was one of them
lol. Whoops

 

[Racey]

RV batteries are not 50k.
I would say 1200 to 1500 each.
Not too worried about the cost - more worried about will an all electric coach work for extended stays in dirt

If you have solar and a generator it's a non issue. All of the world sailing channels on YouTube are all electric appliances and love it, no more hinting for propane.

With Lithium batteries they can take a charge very rapidly so running your generator for 45 minutes can bring you from dead empty to 80% charge. But most days solar will keep you dialed in.

 

[propcheck]

I don’t think there is one ”right” answer to the original question because there are too many variables to how people camp and what they have for a setup.
Electric is great and offers lots of benefits but has some limitation. My personal choice was to go with both a traditional propane setup and solar. It is less money to add solar than add propane. right now we can run all electric and only propane use is the generator when we want to.
Save money on a propane/diesel motorhome and retrofit to electric they make nice plug in heaters and cooktops you can store in a cabinet and any 110v/ propane fridge can be used on 12v with a small inverter. Just my .o2

 

[Singleton]

I don’t think there is one ”right” answer to the original question because there are too many variables to how people camp and what they have for a setup.
Electric is great and offers lots of benefits but has some limitation. My personal choice was to go with both a traditional propane setup and solar. It is less money to add solar than add propane. right now we can run all electric and only propane use is the generator when we want to.
Save money on a propane/diesel motorhome and retrofit to electric they make nice plug in heaters and cooktops you can store in a cabinet and any 110v/ propane fridge can be used on 12v with a small inverter. Just my .o2

This is most likely the direction we are heading. Propane stove, water-heater, dual refrig, etc. Then have genny, battery and solar for power options. Keeps the systems similar to what I have had for 10+ years. While an all electric rig (no propane) will work, it’s a huge price increase since those models include the M2 chassis and larger engine with Renegade.

I have decided on the brand (Renegade). The fit and finish is above all the other brands I have looked at (Jayco - Seneca, Dynamax - Force [discontinued in 24]) And worth the extra money IMO. My biggest issue is the M2 chassis and larger engine model with Renegade (allowing for 20k in towing) is a 75k upgrade. And the overhead cab bunk option started in 2021 (difficult to find used).

Told the wife last night, we can survive with 12k towing and if we like RV life (vs ToyHauler), we can upgrade to something bigger once the youngest kids are off the family checkbook.

 

[whiteworks]

90% of our camping OCCURS off grid with a large group of mixed rigs. Everything from big pushers/showhauler type rigs to my little 26’ class c. One of the constants I’ve noticed is that the more complex/luxurious the rig, the more tinkering that goes on to keep everything operational.

One of our crew has a really nice grand design 5th wheel, he’s added as much solor on the roof as he could fit. Unfortunately we camp during the winter when the sun is further south and he did not add the ability to tilt the panels for optimum charging. That is a significant loss of electoral generation for him. They have had multiple failures of systems over the last few seasons ending sleeping in a cold rig until daylight where in-depth tinkering will get things operational again.

I’d say choose your poison based on which system you think you have the best ability to trouble shoot and keep operational

 

[spark2678]

I bought (4) 250W Trina used panels from SanTan Solar with 10% degradation for $60/ea. Victron 50/100 controller ($200). (3) Amperetime 200AH/200ALifepo4 batteries ($500ea). Installed all myself. I have (2) Magnum 2500W charger/inverters that have the LI profiles.

I'm probably $2500 all in with batteries. System works pretty flawless and does well for dry camping I may add (1) more battery and panel to make the experience of dry camping even better.

On another note, my Starlink works awesome too!