RV electrical question

[Thing One]

So, new issue just began on my 2017 Ford chassis RV. Gas. Original owner doing the same deal I’ve done since new.

I like to use a Honda eu2000 to run during the day to keep house batteries charged, etc. i use the house 4k onan gen to run the higher draw stuff.

This weekend, when I plug the rv into my Honda gen, instantly kills the honda. U plug the rv, refire the honda, runs great but dies as soon as I plug the RV into it. Seems like there is a huge power draw, nothing is plugged in or turned on in the coach. AC’s are off, no water heater, nothing.

At my breaker panel, i can shut all the breakers off and honda runs fine. One at a time I turn the breaker on, no issue till I get to the Converter breaker. Can a bad converter pull a ton of power?

I plug my honda into my buddies similar rv, and no issue, purrs like a kitten.

I can run the house gen and no real issues that I know are related. My AC’s seem to have a hard time running. Fan will run, but if I turn it to ac, fan quits and no AC. Takes a few tries, but I eventually can get the compressor running.

What say you?

 

[wallnutz]

Converter gone bad. See if there is a reset on it, or just shut everything off on see if it resets. If not replace it.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Does the coach have an auto switch, from Gen to shore power? Or do you unplug a cord from a J-box to plug into shore power, in this case your Honda? First guess would be inverter, as already mentioned. If you have an auto switch deal, I've seen those do some odd things due to how they are wired.

 

[Thing One]

Does the coach have an auto switch, from Gen to shore power? Or do you unplug a cord from a J-box to plug into shore power, in this case your Honda? First guess would be inverter, as already mentioned. If you have an auto switch deal, I've seen those do some odd things due to how they are wired.

It’s auto. I don’t have to unplug or do anything to switch from either gen. And you are saying inverter, I assume you meant converter.

 

[monkeyswrench]

It’s auto. I don’t have to unplug or do anything to switch from either gen. And you are saying inverter, I assume you meant converter.

Inverter is what was usually called the piece that takes 12v dc to 120v ac. The converter would be more like a high end battery charger for the coach batteries. I think most are now combo units, able to sense incoming AC voltage, and pass though to the circuitry and charge the coach.

The auto switch deal will usually be mounted in the compartment that the power cord or plug/jack is in. They are contactor type relay things. Some are wired to be closed, connected to the generator, unless it senses voltage coming in the "shore" side. When that happens, the coils switch the load (rv) to the shore power. More often then not, those things just fail to switch. I have seen a couple that somehow would pop the breaker on an RV pedestal.

In your case, I'd lean more on a ground fault. Either internal in the converter, or external. Check anywhere near that may have had something stored against it or such. RV stuff gets real particular about gfci's and such.

 

[lbhsbz]

Disconnect the batteries and try again.

RV Electrical is Chinese witchcraft....principles that should apply sometimes don't.

A bad battery may be working the converter too hard and drawing more than the little honda can deal with. If you can borrow a couple of known good batteries out of your buddy's coach to replace yours with and try it...that would prove the issue.

 

[Lumpy]

Inverter is what was usually called the piece that takes 12v dc to 120v ac. The converter would be more like a high end battery charger for the coach batteries. I think most are now combo units, able to sense incoming AC voltage, and pass though to the circuitry and charge the coach.

The auto switch deal will usually be mounted in the compartment that the power cord or plug/jack is in. They are contactor type relay things. Some are wired to be closed, connected to the generator, unless it senses voltage coming in the "shore" side. When that happens, the coils switch the load (rv) to the shore power. More often then not, those things just fail to switch. I have seen a couple that somehow would pop the breaker on an RV pedestal.

In your case, I'd lean more on a ground fault. Either internal in the converter, or external. Check anywhere near that may have had something stored against it or such. RV stuff gets real particular about gfci's and such.

What he said.

My money is on the converter…If its a true “Converter”.

 

[Thing One]

Disconnect the batteries and try again.

RV Electrical is Chinese witchcraft....principles that should apply sometimes don't.

A bad battery may be working the converter too hard and drawing more than the little honda can deal with. If you can borrow a couple of known good batteries out of your buddy's coach to replace yours with and try it...that would prove the issue.

I did just install two new 6v batteries. They show fully charged. I can measure the individual and total voltages tomorrow. Everything that operates on 12v seems to work great.

 

[Thing One]

What he said.

My money is on the converter…If its a true “Converter”.

 

[Sharky]

I did just install two new 6v batteries.

Did you connect the wires from the convertor/charger up correctly to the batteries?

 

[Thing One]

Did you connect the wires from the convertor/charger up correctly to the batteries?

Yes, exactly like it was before.

 

[wallnutz]

A converter is what is found in most gas coaches. Never really understood why they don’t do the inverter/ charger as found in most diesel pushers. I have had both and have had the converter go bad and this is what would happen when hooked to shore power or on board genny. Most converters have fuses too, make sure to check those.

 

[STV_Keith]

See if you have options to set the charging limits of your converter. My Xantrex has a % of max charging option. Since my battery bank is 765Ah, it will allow 100% of the charging capability of the unit (150A). Even with the Power Share setting set to 10A max, it will overload the AC output of my Yamaha 2000 generator. I have to set the charging limit to 50%. See if your unit has this setting, and lower it. It's possible those new batteries are requiring the converter to put out more charge, which is overloading your generator capacity.

 

[Sharky]

Just for shits & grins, unhook the leads from the convertor/charger from the batteries and see what happens.

 

[Thing One]

Ok, played with a little more. Replaced the Converter and no change.

Like I mentioned above, I did recently (before using the rv for the season) replace my 6v batteries. I had typical wet vented golf cart batteries, I replaced them with non vented agm batteries. This is where i’m thinking my problem is.

What say ye?

 

[yz450mm]

Just for shits & grins, unhook the leads from the convertor/charger from the batteries and see what happens.

Try this next.

 

[Taboma]

Ok, played with a little more. Replaced the Converter and no change.

Like I mentioned above, I did recently (before using the rv for the season) replace my 6v batteries. I had typical wet vented golf cart batteries, I replaced them with non vented agm batteries. This is where i’m thinking my problem is.

What say ye?

I see that with that switch on, it bridges two 6V batts to output 12V and if in the open position, by removing the bridge would serve as a disconnect. Is the primary function of that switch to both serve as a disconnect and to isolate the two batteries ?
Anyway, in it's present position is in the "Off" position, then it won't charge or output voltage.

 

[Thing One]

I see that with that switch on, it bridges two 6V batts to output 12V and if in the open position, by removing the bridge would serve as a disconnect. Is the primary function of that switch to both serve as a disconnect and to isolate the two batteries ?
Anyway, in it's present position is in the "Off" position, then it won't charge or output voltage.

The perko style switch is just a battery disconnect to stop drain. When using the rv, the switch is always on. Only way to get 12v.

 

[Taboma]

The perko style switch is just a battery disconnect to stop drain. When using the rv, the switch is always on. Only way to get 12v.

That was my assumption, but I wasn't sure if that switch was what you were questioning as not looking right.
So your question was in regards to having switching from vented to AGM as being the problem ?
I've certainly never encountered a problem having switched from Vented to Sealed or AGM in all our vehicles, boats, jetskis, virtually everything we have with batteries.

 

[Thing One]

That was my assumption, but I wasn't sure if that switch was what you were questioning as not looking right.
So your question was in regards to having switching from vented to AGM as being the problem ?
I've certainly never encountered a problem having switched from Vented to Sealed or AGM in all our vehicles, boats, jetskis, virtually everything we have with batteries.

I think it has to do with the onboard charger. The RV uses the converter to charge the batteries. I assume you use a different charger with AGM batteries typically. I know the charger I use here at the house has a specific AGM mode.

 

[Thing One]

Try this next.

I’ll try this tomorrow.

Try this next.

i’ll try to isolate this tomorrow.

 

[Taboma]

I think it has to do with the onboard charger. The RV uses the converter to charge the batteries. I assume you use a different charger with AGM batteries typically. I know the charger I use here at the house has a specific AGM mode.

I have chargers with an AGM setting and chargers without, and they all work fine on all my AGMs. AGMs are still lead acid, and RV chargers are designed for deep cycle batteries and they should work fine with any battery so long as they're not Lithium.

Battery and convertor incompatibility is certainly not causing the excessive load problems your convertor seems to be exhibiting. It's manifesting itself more noticeably with the Honda due to it's reduced load capacity, less impact on the RV Gen, but the voltage drop is still causing the AC compressor to fail to start.
All indications point to a convertor problem.

 

[Thing One]

I have chargers with an AGM setting and chargers without, and they all work fine on all my AGMs. AGMs are still lead acid, and RV chargers are designed for deep cycle batteries and they should work fine with any battery so long as they're not Lithium.

Battery and convertor incompatibility is certainly not causing the excessive load problems your convertor seems to be exhibiting. It's manifesting itself more noticeably with the Honda due to it's reduced load capacity, less impact on the RV Gen, but the voltage drop is still causing the AC compressor to fail to start.
All indications point to a convertor problem.

Agreed, but I just replaced the converter with a new one, same issue. Something is pulling a huge load. I need to figure what it is.

 

[wallnutz]

Agreed, but I just replaced the converter with a new one, same issue. Something is pulling a huge load. I need to figure what it is.

So you can see that the converter has power? Another problem I had was the GFI tripping, also there was a resettable fuse on the output side that was located behind a panel.

 

[Taboma]

Agreed, but I just replaced the converter with a new one, same issue. Something is pulling a huge load. I need to figure what it is.

If it's a converter isn't it's only purpose to convert AC to DC to power any DC loads, like charging the batteries as it's primary function ?
If so, disconnect the leads from the batteries or at the convertor with a fuse or ??
Try to isolate any DC loads one at a time, if you don't have one procure an AC/DC clamp-on meter, under $ 20 from Amazon, or I'm sure Harbor Freight has them.
Isolate and test each DC load individually, you'll easily read the amps on the AC side at with the electrical cover removed, or at the Convertor clamped onto the AC hot lead. Just be careful !!!
Do you have a wiring diagram ?

 

[Thing One]

If it's a converter isn't it's only purpose to convert AC to DC to power any DC loads, like charging the batteries as it's primary function ?
If so, disconnect the leads from the batteries or at the convertor with a fuse or ??
Try to isolate any DC loads one at a time, if you don't have one procure an AC/DC clamp-on meter, under $ 20 from Amazon, or I'm sure Harbor Freight has them.
Isolate and test each DC load individually, you'll easily read the amps on the AC side at with the electrical cover removed, or at the Convertor clamped onto the AC hot lead. Just be careful !!!
Do you have a wiring diagram ?

Good plan, i do not have a wiring diagram. I believe I can get one from Jayco though.