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Replacing Facia boards

wsuwrhr

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Im sure someone here has done it.

I have a couple boards on the west side that look like they need to be firewood.

Are the boards just attached to the truss ends or are they attached to the roof sheeting as well?

Kinda looked like they could just be remooved and new boards put right back on, when it looks simple, it usually isn't, so that is why I am asking. :)

Screws or nails? Im thinking screws are a better idea.

Brian
 

CigAjerk

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Sawzall rafter tails right at fascia boards and possibly where shiplap/roof overlaps the top of the fascia. Screws are easy to install and you will curse the day you installed them if you live long enough to do this project again.

And close your mouth...termite shit gets everywhere.
 

Hullbilly

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Im sure someone here has done it.

I have a couple boards on the west side that look like they need to be firewood.

Are the boards just attached to the truss ends or are they attached to the roof sheeting as well?

Kinda looked like they could just be remooved and new boards put right back on, when it looks simple, it usually isn't, so that is why I am asking. :)

Screws or nails? Im thinking screws are a better idea.

Brian


For once....it’s that simple! They should just be nailed to subfascia unless the builder just used the trim as subfascia:confused:...Just recaulk to the soffit and youre goid to go

hopefully they didnt nail any dripcap to it!
 

wsuwrhr

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Sawzall rafter tails right at fascia boards and possibly where shiplap/roof overlaps the top of the fascia. Screws are easy to install and you will curse the day you installed them if you live long enough to do this project again.

And close your mouth...termite shit gets everywhere.
Close mouth. Noted. Just like running an "Open" lathe.

These boards are the peak boards, none of them are shiplapped that I saw.

Replace with pine? Redwood?
 

Hullbilly

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Sawzall rafter tails right at fascia boards and possibly where shiplap/roof overlaps the top of the fascia. Screws are easy to install and you will curse the day you installed them if you live long enough to do this project again.

And close your mouth...termite shit gets everywhere.

Agree....Screw screws!
 

WhatExit?

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Thanks Brian, for asking this. I've got the same issue with our new-to-us home. There are no gutters on this house just a piece of metal flashing under the asphalt shingles. I'd like to figure out how these fascia boards on secured and how difficult they'll be to replace. And then there are the corners (inside and outside corners) where the fascia boards are cut on angles like crown molding so there's that too.
 

wsuwrhr

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Thanks Brian, for asking this. I've got the same issue with our new-to-us home. There are no gutters on this house just a piece of metal flashing under the asphalt shingles. I'd like to figure out how these fascia boards on secured and how difficult they'll be to replace. And then there are the corners (inside and outside corners) where the fascia boards are cut on angles like crown molding so there's that too.
Im lucky in that regard. These are just outward facing boards that go to the peak and back. just an simple angle at either end. No compound stuff.
 

Ziggy

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Just did two on my house.
Removed old nails from front of fascia that went into rafter tails. That allows you to pull fascia straight down from roof boards. Cut off those nails, paint new board and install.
 

endobear

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We like Cedar for fascia but it depends on what your trying to match.
A lot of fascia will have a grove in the back to accept the soffet/eves..
Post a pic.
 

buck35

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If you can get to an end fairly easily , go up with a prybar amd loosen a section. That will let you know what you are up against before getting in too deep.
 

wsuwrhr

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We like Cedar for facia but it depends on what your trying to match.
A lot of facia will have a grove in the back to accept the soffet/eves..
Post a pic.
No groove. I am not sure what you guys are referring to with a soffet referring to the facia.

My facia looks to be a standard painted 2x6. No groove in the back, just nailed to the rafter/trusses.
 

fishing fool

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That isn't accessible without tearing up shingles right?
You should be able to bend them up enough to remove nails. Reinstalling with screws will be easier then nailing back up. Please use outdoor coated screws not drywall screws.
 

wsuwrhr

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You should be able to bend them up enough to remove nails. Reinstalling with screws will be easier then nailing back up. Please use outdoor coated screws not drywall screws.
That was my thought since I will likely be doing it by myself.

Come on now, I was thinkin stainless, or whatever outdoor hardware. :)

Brian
 

Hullbilly

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soffit%20fascia%20J%20channel%20cr.jpg


Where it says “jchannel” where the soffit meets the fascia just run a thing bead of caulk and finger it to seal it up.
 

nowski

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I had to replace a couple of fascia boards a couple of years ago. One of the damaged boards was do to termite damage and the other was dry rot. I got a couple quotes to replace the two boards and the cheapest was $850. I signed on to have the work done but the contractor never showed. When the contractor didn't show I needed to make a quick decision on replacing the boards because we already had our house scheduled to get tented for fumigation. Because of the now reduced lead time to get the job completed I decided to do the job myself. I thought to myself it seems like a straight forward job. I'm not a roofer but it seemed like an easy job. how hard could it be anyways???

I needed to first remove the ridge tile end caps (picture#3 & #4) without breaking any since I didn't have any replacements. Next was the damaged fascia boards thinking this was going to be a piece of cake, wrong. The boards were nailed to the truss ends and roof sheeting as well, I thought to myself who was the genius who did this??? The easiest way to remove those nails was to get the sawzall out and cut away. The only exception was the two fascia boards are located at the highest part of the roof...

Before cutting the replacement boards I decided to rethink the reason why the one fascia board failed and ended up with dry rot. The board laid directly on the tile and trapped moisture on the board when it rained. I then decided to have a change in plans to keep this from happening again. I decided to use two boards instead of one, cut the board short and use a short sacrificial board to rest on the roof. I then decided to use some teflon strips to keep the board off the tile to help keep the sacrificial board dry and prolonging it's life. If the sacrificial board does fail in the future it only needs to be replaced instead of the whole board. You can see the seam where the two boards meet. A third short board (painted tan picture #1) also needed to be replaced do to dry rot as well. I used teflon strips on that as well to keep that board off the tile to help keep it dry...
 

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ductape1000

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I'm a professional carpenter. I paid the termite guy to replace mine...

Not difficult, just more of a pain in the ass than it's worth.

Roofers and termite guys usually have people that do this on the regular and know the tricks.
 

Mandelon

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Are you working on a gable end of the house or the lower section?

Typically facia is face nailed to the rafter tails, and then the plywood or starter board roof sheathing is nailed to the facia.
If you have edge metal drip edge under the roof, it will likely be nailed to the facia from above. Typically these are short roofing nails and they will pop out easily with a wonder bar or flat pry bar. Just take your time and don't damage the drip edge.

On a gable end the facia would be face nailed into the lookouts, and top nailed in with the starter boards or plywood roof sheathing.

Assuming I am imagining what you have correctly. A photo would help.
 

wsuwrhr

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Are you working on a gable end of the house or the lower section?

Typically facia is face nailed to the rafter tails, and then the plywood or starter board roof sheathing is nailed to the facia.
If you have edge metal drip edge under the roof, it will likely be nailed to the facia from above. Typically these are short roofing nails and they will pop out easily with a wonder bar or flat pry bar. Just take your time and don't damage the drip edge.

On a gable end the facia would be face nailed into the lookouts, and top nailed in with the starter boards or plywood roof sheathing.

Assuming I am imagining what you have correctly. A photo would help.

Gable end only sir.
 

wsuwrhr

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Are you working on a gable end of the house or the lower section?

Typically facia is face nailed to the rafter tails, and then the plywood or starter board roof sheathing is nailed to the facia.
If you have edge metal drip edge under the roof, it will likely be nailed to the facia from above. Typically these are short roofing nails and they will pop out easily with a wonder bar or flat pry bar. Just take your time and don't damage the drip edge.

On a gable end the facia would be face nailed into the lookouts, and top nailed in with the starter boards or plywood roof sheathing.

Assuming I am imagining what you have correctly. A photo would help.

Sorry peeps asking for pictures. I should have snapped one when I was leaving for the shop this morning. Since the lift is still at my house, the idea popped in my head and I was thinking about doing it today and tomorrow when I get home.

Brian
 

wsuwrhr

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Fascia is most definitely nailed in to the roof sheeting. I can see nails poking out of the 2x6 3 in AWAY from the roof sheeting!!!! Ima go to HD and get a small pry bar and a nibbler set of cutters since those nails weren't responding correctly to the claw side. HD had sawn cedar boards for fascia.
 
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nrbr

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X2 on the Windsor boards from ganahl! Primered all 6 sides (if you primer the cuts) will last much longer and has a guarantee
 

mesquito_creek

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Some of the time facia boards are rough sawn and dimensional lumber (slightly larger than a framing 2x6). A standard 2x6 will look bad.
 

boatdoc55

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Use Spruce wood. Dried, light and will last.. I redid my whole house 12 years ago.
That's what my GC dad used for years and years back in the 60's and 70's.
 

wsuwrhr

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This job is horrible. I removed the dry rotted fascia. There are 257,467 nails into the fascia board from the roof sheeting, it was roofed prior to us buying the house so it seems pointless to put a new roof on.

Clipping each nail off at the seems to be the way to go?
 

Ziggy

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Yea, you aren't helping much.
You're making the job much harder than it needs to be. One 16 foot fascia should have maybe 20 nails to remove on front surface, pry it down from roofing boards then cut the tails of the nails protruding.
That's 20 munutes of labor and you're halfway done.
 

Yellowboat

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or you could hire me, but that portal too portal time would be a bitch.
 

wsuwrhr

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You're making the job much harder than it needs to be. One 16 foot fascia should have maybe 20 nails to remove on front surface, pry it down from roofing boards then cut the tails of the nails protruding.
That's 20 munutes of labor and you're halfway done.
Should have. Noted.

the job is what it is zigmeister.

There are nails thru the sheeting into the fascia every 1.5 inch. As Ron White would say.... Overkill. Anyway I'm done with that part and having lunch.
 

wsuwrhr

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I am getting ready to measure off and saw some boards, paint some ends and figure out how to set a 16 foot board by myself.
 

nowski

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Should have noted post #26... :cool:
Noted... lol The guy making out is the termite guy. He subs out the repair and puts a little extra $$$ in his pocket. When my termite guy saw the repairs made on my home he liked what he saw and asked who I used to do the work. He was surprised when I said your looking at him...
 
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