PowerUp oil additive

[copterzach]

Anyone use this? Is it the real deal?

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[RitcheyRch]

Saw them on one of the Sunday car shows. Reminds me of the old Slick 50 stuff.

 

[copterzach]

Saw them on one of the Sunday car shows. Reminds me of the old Slick 50 stuff.

According to “their” video it outperforms Slick 50


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[TPC]

My GM truck owners manual says that stuff already is in motor oils with the Starburst on the side of the container. No need to, and not recommended

to add anything.

 

[ElAzul]

According to “their” video it outperforms Slick 50


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Well Slick 50 doesn't do shit so that's an easy claim. 99.988% of oil additives are snake oil or actually make things worse. We live in an age of amazing technology our oils are perfectly balanced to do a job and do it well. Screwing with that balance isn't always a good idea. How many engines are out there with 200k+ miles and had a diet of cheap oil?? Tons. When is the last time an engine has failed due to the oil? Most rare cases it's neglect, wrong oil etc. I will also add that the Lucas oil stabilizer is poo as well.

 

[CobraDave]

I’ll just put in good oil to begin with, then change it at proper intervals.


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[Wheeler]

Is that the same guy that sells little giant ladders on late night tv?

 

[Rajobigguy]

OK here is my story. Back in the 70's I was a senior engineering tech. at a pump company and one of my jobs was testing materials and lubricants. One of the first things that you learn is that Phalanx wear test machines like the one in the video aren't good for much of anything other than making sales pitches. A true wear test will run for hrs. or even days and will run with a steadily increasing load in varying temps and the drag force is measured by a dynomonmeter. Frankly I could duplicate the results that you see in that video using that machine with Clorox bleach as the lube ( I know this because I've done it ) but that doesn't mean I want to put bleach in my oil.

 

[ElAzul]

OK here is my story. Back in the 70's I was a senior engineering tech. at a pump company and one of my jobs was testing materials and lubricants. One of the first things that you learn is that Phalanx wear test machines like the one in the video aren't good for much of anything other than making sales pitches. A true wear test will run for hrs. or even days and will run with a steadily increasing load in varying temps and the drag force is measured by a dynomonmeter. Frankly I could duplicate the results that you see in that video using that machine with Clorox bleach as the lube ( I know this because I've done it ) but that doesn't mean I want to put bleach in my oil.

Funny you should mention it chlorine is a major component of many snake oil additives.

Also remember you must have Splitfire plugs, a Vornado intake insert and magnet's on yore fuel line or none of this works including the Slick 50

 

[RiverDave]

Well Slick 50 doesn't do shit so that's an easy claim. 99.988% of oil additives are snake oil or actually make things worse. We live in an age of amazing technology our oils are perfectly balanced to do a job and do it well. Screwing with that balance isn't always a good idea. How many engines are out there with 200k+ miles and had a diet of cheap oil?? Tons. When is the last time an engine has failed due to the oil? Most rare cases it's neglect, wrong oil etc. I will also add that the Lucas oil stabilizer is poo as well.

Im curious as to why you would say that about Lucas? I used to sell quite a bit of it and have seen some amazing results from it.

 

[wettrthebettr]

Saw them on one of the Sunday car shows. Reminds me of the old Slick 50 stuff.

That slick 50 is good shit, I used it in my Casale V-drive to quiet it down

 

[pronstar]

Carmakers work with actual tribologists to come up with oil specs.

And yet some bozos think they can improve things with a bottle of magical elixir from Pep Boys?

Even the .gov got involved and said enough already...

Quaker State Ads for Slick 50 Are False and Misleading, FTC Charges

The Federal Trade Commission has charged Quaker State - Slick 50, Inc., the manufacturer of Slick 50, the best-selling auto engine treatment in the U.S., with making false and unsubstantiated adver

www.ftc.gov

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[LargeOrangeFont]

Im curious as to why you would say that about Lucas? I used to sell quite a bit of it and have seen some amazing results from it.

Results compared to what is his point.

That molasses is not good for anything in a modern engine (30 years old or less) except temporarily hiding problems to sell the car lol.

You can achieve similar results by just running a thicker oil if you are trying to make a tired engine quieter.

And what if the engine was well maintained - would it even need "oil additives" in the first place?

 

[ElAzul]

Im curious as to why you would say that about Lucas? I used to sell quite a bit of it and have seen some amazing results from it.

Can you explain to me with any detail what the LOS actually is? I asked another RDP'r the same question a couple years back and his answer was not correct and he sells the stuff.

What results did you see? Was the LOS a band aid for an issue?

 

[Rajobigguy]

Funny you should mention it chlorine is a major component of many snake oil additives.

Also remember you must have Splitfire plugs, a Vornado intake insert and magnet's on yore fuel line or none of this works including the Slick 50

Yep Chlorine or more specifically chlorinated fluorocarbons are the precursor to Teflon and are very slippery but not stable and promotes oxidation.

 

[oldschool]

It’s has to work, it says it right on the can.

 

[ElAzul]

It’s has to work, it says it right on the can. View attachment 846040

LOL space age petroleum

 

[pronstar]

LOL space age petroleum

Dead dinosaurs from the future [emoji106]


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[wettrthebettr]

Results compared to what is his point.

That molasses is not good for anything in a modern engine (30 years old or less) except temporarily hiding problems to sell the car lol.

You can achieve similar results by just running a thicker oil if you are trying to make a tired engine quieter.

And what if the engine was well maintained - would it even need "oil additives" in the first place?

I hear you about Engines but what about those noisy whining Casale V-drives?
When I used Slick 50 with gear oil, in my Casale V-drive it would quiet it down with no problems.

 

[Bigbore500r]

Here's one for ya......this shit actually works (for a while.....)

My sister's Honda Civic was drinking coolant and burning it, she had overheated it and blew the head gasket. Car was a POS, so tried a bottle of this stuff on a recommendation from a buddy......followed the instructions to a T and let it rip. Car stopped using coolant, and ran for another 2 years!

I hope you all don't think less of me for posting this....

 

[oldschool]

Here's one for ya......this shit actually works (for a while.....)

View attachment 846062

My sister's Honda Civic was drinking coolant and burning it, she had overheated it and blew the head gasket. Car was a POS, so tried a bottle of this stuff on a recommendation from a buddy......followed the instructions to a T and let it rip. Car stopped using coolant, and ran for another 2 years!

I hope you all don't think less of me for posting this....

How could we think less of you.

 

[ElAzul]

I hear you about Engines but what about those noisy whining Casale V-drives?
When I used Slick 50 with gear oil, in my Casale V-drive it would quiet it down with no problems.

Probably not hurting anything

 

[ElAzul]

Here's one for ya......this shit actually works (for a while.....)

View attachment 846062

My sister's Honda Civic was drinking coolant and burning it, she had overheated it and blew the head gasket. Car was a POS, so tried a bottle of this stuff on a recommendation from a buddy......followed the instructions to a T and let it rip. Car stopped using coolant, and ran for another 2 years!

I hope you all don't think less of me for posting this....

That stuff seems to work. The other brand in the small blue bottle seems to Band-aid pretty well as well

 

[RiverDave]

Can you explain to me with any detail what the LOS actually is? I asked another RDP'r the same question a couple years back and his answer was not correct and he sells the stuff.

What results did you see? Was the LOS a band aid for an issue?

absolutely.. as soon as I get to a real keyboard!

 

[ElAzul]

absolutely.. as soon as I get to a real keyboard!

I'm more interested in the original formula when they had the hand crank thing to play with on the parts counter not the synthetic version. Help me drink the Kool aid

 

[oldschool]

It doesn’t matter what’s in the box if a bearing goes away and it gets hot.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I hear you about Engines but what about those noisy whining Casale V-drives?
When I used Slick 50 with gear oil, in my Casale V-drive it would quiet it down with no problems.

Slick50 is (was) higher viscosity oil with a different amount of basically the exact same additive package in most oils.

I turned the little gear display in Pep Boys "before" and "after" adding the oil additive enough as a kid to figure out that the "after" was just thicker and just stuck to the gears longer.

Which would make sense as to why it was quieter, but being thicker it probably also robbed a bit of efficiency and added some heat as well.

Did you ever just run thicker oil and see what it sounded like?

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I'm more interested in the original formula when they had the hand crank thing to play with on the parts counter not the synthetic version. Help me drink the Kool aid
View attachment 846068

Yep.. I wore a few of those out as a kid.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Here's one for ya......this shit actually works (for a while.....)

View attachment 846062

My sister's Honda Civic was drinking coolant and burning it, she had overheated it and blew the head gasket. Car was a POS, so tried a bottle of this stuff on a recommendation from a buddy......followed the instructions to a T and let it rip. Car stopped using coolant, and ran for another 2 years!

I hope you all don't think less of me for posting this....

I used that stuff too.. coincidentally on a Honda Civic as well.

 

[Bigbore500r]

How could we think less of you.

Just wait.....lol

 

[Rajobigguy]

Well as long as were telling stories about mechanics in a can. I had a '72 Old 442 that had what I thought was a leaking head gasket so to buy a little time before I had to change the gasket I used some K&W block seal. I continued to drive the car for another year before I got the chance to dig into it and when I pulled it apart to change the head gaskets the drivers side head (the one that was originally leaking) came off in two pieces. I would say that stuff did it's job pretty well.

 

[Wheeler]

Im curious as to why you would say that about Lucas? I used to sell quite a bit of it and have seen some amazing results from it.

I didn't know that you made your money in oil.

 

[wettrthebettr]

Slick50 is (was) higher viscosity oil with a different amount of basically the exact same additive package in most oils.

I turned the little gear display in Pep Boys "before" and "after" adding the oil additive enough as a kid to figure out that the "after" was just thicker and just stuck to the gears longer.

Which would make sense as to why it was quieter, but being thicker it probably also robbed a bit of efficiency and added some heat as well.

Did you ever just run thicker oil and see what it sounded like?

Yes I Did, This was on an Aquacraft, with a split case Casale, I was incorrect it was not a Split case ,it was a top load casale. I only put in about 2-3oz of Slick 50, it made the V-drive quiet, and I never had a problem in the ten years I owned it.
I tried 75-90 wt and 75-140 wt, What worked the best to quiet the Casale down was 75-90wt with 2-3 oz of Slick 50.

 

[RiverDave]

I'm more interested in the original formula when they had the hand crank thing to play with on the parts counter not the synthetic version. Help me drink the Kool aid
View attachment 846068

Go down to your local auto parts store and find a hand crank display.. don’t touch it! Take note of which gears have oil on them and which ones don’t.. .

then spin it and you will see the webbing. Someone was talking about dry starts earlier.. to me that hand crank display after it’s been sitting for a few days is one hell of a sales pitch in itself, as you can clearly see which gears are covered after it has been sitting idle.

I am not some oil expert nor a chemist.. but as I understand it the oil itself is the delivery vehicle for the additive packs. The additive packs are what actually do the lubricating and cleaning (yes there is detergents in them). When the additive packs are depleted that is when it’s time to change the oils..

now further to the point made originally how you deliver those additive packs are important, oil is the vehicle. What Forrest has done is add a “sticky” ingredient to his stabilizer and upper cylinder lube etc, which helps the oil / additive packs stick to surfaces that are needing to be lubricated. It seems contrary to common sense when you are thinking about lubricants and “sticky.” When you think about two gear teeth coming together though under pressure you will start to realize that the first thing that happens is the oil is squeezed out between the two leaving a film.. That film is what actually lubricated the two parts with pressure between them and the additives in the oil are the actual lubricant.. The better it sticks the more lubricant is delivered under pressure.

lucas oil stabilizer is basically a Giant additive pack blended with a sticky agent and a base oil.

A larger additive pack means you can run the oil longer between change intervals.. Larger additives mean more lubrication / more cleaning power (detergents) and again the sticky means better delivery.

Make sense?

 

[RiverDave]

Results compared to what is his point.

That molasses is not good for anything in a modern engine (30 years old or less) except temporarily hiding problems to sell the car lol.

You can achieve similar results by just running a thicker oil if you are trying to make a tired engine quieter.

And what if the engine was well maintained - would it even need "oil additives" in the first place?

you are mistaking thicker with stickier.. Thicker oil would actually fling off the gears faster than a thinner oil. Gear oil wts and motor oil wts are called out differently. 90wt gear oil is thinner than typical 50 at motor oils.. Gear oils have crazy additive packs in them to deal with extreme pressures etc.. Having the sticky agent in the Lucas (as displayed via the display) is a good thing.. Lucas gear oils come with that sticky agent already built into them.


Quick little story about Lucas Stabilizer (motor oil). Old truck with a stuck valve.. you could watch the antenna on it whipping back and forth when it idled.. Drop some stabilizer in it and let it run for five to ten minutes and that antenna is standing still loud and proud and truck runs perfectly.. Do you think an oil change would fix that? Or a thicker viscosity oil?

Go buy some upper cylinder lube and drop it in your tank.. you tell me if that thing doesn’t run like a cat in slippers.. Car will feel like the day you bought it.

I used to use quite a few of their products regularly.. I could tell when it was being used and when it wasn’t.. or when it finally wore off, and I dropped more upper cylinder lube in the gas etc.

I pretty much stopped over the last few years out of laziness. My truck has just recently developed a little bit of a rough idle when it’s cold.. I’d literally bet between a bottle of LOS and upper cylinder lube whatever it is, is gonna go away and for years..

The rest of the stuff like the stop leak isn’t rocket science they put a little bit of acid in the mix, so when it makes contact with rubber the rubber swells and seals.

by the way all oils have additives.. The SAE specs are the minimum requirements to pass to sell the oil under those guidelines.. Some good oils like Penn surpass those specs with larger additive packs. LOS is basically just a giant additive pack, with a sticky agent in it.. (as said above)

 

[RiverDave]

Here’s an article I wrote years ago about upper cylinder lube, which some would call snake oils. Lol.
It addresses somethings ya might not have thought of like oil cushion / flash corrosion etc..

I believe in the product whole heartedly because I have seen the results and I have used it and not used it off and on over the years..

Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube - It's not about the MPG

In this article we are going to take a look at Lucas Oil's Upper Cylinder Lube, all the controversy that surrounds it, and why I (and YOU) should use it regularly. First lets read the description right off Lucas Oil's website so we have some...

www.riverdavesplace.com

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

you are mistaking thicker with stickier.. Thicker oil would actually fling off the gears faster than a thinner oil. Gear oil wts and motor oil wts are called out differently. 90wt gear oil is thinner than typical 50 at motor oils.. Gear oils have crazy additive packs in them to deal with extreme pressures etc.. Having the sticky agent in the Lucas (as displayed via the display) is a good thing.. Lucas gear oils come with that sticky agent already built into them.


Quick little story about Lucas Stabilizer (motor oil). Old truck with a stuck valve.. you could watch the antenna on it whipping back and forth when it idled.. Drop some stabilizer in it and let it run for five to ten minutes and that antenna is standing still loud and proud and truck runs perfectly.. Do you think an oil change would fix that? Or a thicker viscosity oil?

Go buy some upper cylinder lube and drop it in your tank.. you tell me if that thing doesn’t run like a cat in slippers.. Car will feel like the day you bought it.

I used to use quite a few of their products regularly.. I could tell when it was being used and when it wasn’t.. or when it finally wore off, and I dropped more upper cylinder lube in the gas etc.

I pretty much stopped over the last few years out of laziness. My truck has just recently developed a little bit of a rough idle when it’s cold.. I’d literally bet between a bottle of LOS and upper cylinder lube whatever it is, is gonna go away and for years..

The rest of the stuff like the stop leak isn’t rocket science they put a little bit of acid in the mix, so when it makes contact with rubber the rubber swells and seals.

by the way all oils have additives.. The SAE specs are the minimum requirements to pass to sell the oil under those guidelines.. Some good oils like Penn surpass those specs with larger additive packs. LOS is basically just a giant additive pack, with a sticky agent in it.. (as said above)

Dave, there are numerous reasons why the industry and every race car runs the thinnest oil possible. Thicker oil adds heat, and robs power. Thicker oil absolutely does not “fling off” anything faster than thinner oil. That is the reason the thinnest oil possible is used in modern cars and in racing. The thinnest oil with the best film strength is used, which is most modern synthetics.

Old worn out engines, sure glob that molasses in there to quiet it down. It is not a fix, it is a band aid, but band aids do stop the bleeding, and if it works, great!

You start running too thick of oil in a modern engine you are going to develop all kinds of weird problems with lifters, cam phasers, DOD systems etc.

The slightly rough idle in your modern truck is not going to be solved by an “upper cylinder additive” or an oil stabilizer. Neither of those have dick to do with the ignition or fueling that is causing the rough idle. If you have some problem that those additives claim to "solve", there is a bigger problem with the vehicle. Hell I’ve had 3 modern cars that have idled a little funny because the battery was old. Swapped that and they idled perfect again.

Clean the MAF, and IAC valve, reset the ECU put a fresh set of 02 sensors, and spark plugs if needed and it will magically run “like new”.

I chalk the additives up into the “self fulfilling prophecy” bucket.

Unless we are just dumping it in to quiet down the tired big block in the 78 1 ton truck, (the one that out tows the modern half ton) usually people that use the additives stay up on general maintenance. Would anything have failed if they stayed up on general maintenance and NOT added oil stabilizer or other additives? Who knows.

In most cases in small doses they probably can’t hurt, but also in my opinion don’t make a whole bunch of difference either.

My experience? I used to sell and distribute Torco oil for a time, and had the privilege of having dinner with their principle chemist at the time, and also worked in a couple race shops.

 

[ElAzul]

Go down to your local auto parts store and find a hand crank display.. don’t touch it! Take note of which gears have oil on them and which ones don’t.. .

then spin it and you will see the webbing. Someone was talking about dry starts earlier.. to me that hand crank display after it’s been sitting for a few days is one hell of a sales pitch in itself, as you can clearly see which gears are covered after it has been sitting idle.

I am not some oil expert nor a chemist.. but as I understand it the oil itself is the delivery vehicle for the additive packs. The additive packs are what actually do the lubricating and cleaning (yes there is detergents in them). When the additive packs are depleted that is when it’s time to change the oils..

now further to the point made originally how you deliver those additive packs are important, oil is the vehicle. What Forrest has done is add a “sticky” ingredient to his stabilizer and upper cylinder lube etc, which helps the oil / additive packs stick to surfaces that are needing to be lubricated. It seems contrary to common sense when you are thinking about lubricants and “sticky.” When you think about two gear teeth coming together though under pressure you will start to realize that the first thing that happens is the oil is squeezed out between the two leaving a film.. That film is what actually lubricated the two parts with pressure between them and the additives in the oil are the actual lubricant.. The better it sticks the more lubricant is delivered under pressure.

lucas oil stabilizer is basically a Giant additive pack blended with a sticky agent and a base oil.

A larger additive pack means you can run the oil longer between change intervals.. Larger additives mean more lubrication / more cleaning power (detergents) and again the sticky means better delivery.

Make sense?

Here is my beef....there are no additives in the LOS. It is not an add pack on steroids because there is no additives in it. LOS screws with the delivery of the oils add pack because it drastically changing the viscosity. I have read the msds from Lucas, seen several lab analysis, and more. No zinc, moly, calcium, phosphorus, boron, just straight heavy oil. So where are the steroids?? It does not raise the TBN of oil by any reasonable amount either. So it's not adding any life, oxidative fighting, nothing.

Let's talk engine's in general. Say I have a Blue motor in my boat or a Dodge Hemi truck, or a Ford Triton, or whatever. They all call for a very specific oil due to their bearing clearances, oil delivery systems, cam phasers, actuators etc. How in the hell does adding an 50wt. glob of foaming, worthless shit to any of those help in anyway?
Now let's say there was an "additive pack on steroids" in the LOS. So once again I have a plethora of motors all with certain oil needs. Let's say I use Pennzoil synthetic 5w20 in my Hemi. Why in the hell do I need to add an 50wt. "add pack on steroids"?

The bigger issue which is really obvious on their display is foaming. The LOS foams like crazy and there is plenty of real data supporting that. Why would I want that in my motor or gear oil?
I had a motor brought to me several years ago that killed a cam. The owner thought it was getting tired so he decided to start using LOS a few months before it ate itself up. I asked him why his oil needs "stabilizing". His reply "well I think it's getting tired, clearances are obviously bigger etc." Ok but why does this motor need "oil stabilizer"? What's wrong with the Red Line oil? Why does your $13 a quart, high zinc, high additive, high TBN oil need stabilizer? No reply.
So I tore the motor down and my best analysis of it's death was one of two things. The LOS foamed so bad it wiped several cam lobes by not letting the regular oil do it's job and oil starvation by adding thick molasses like "stabilizer" that had to be cleaned out of the oil passages, pan, etc. Did the Lucas directly kill this motor? Hard to say. Did it help anything? Absolutely not.
Also Lucas makes several oils, from passenger cars, heavy duty diesel, high performance race type, gear oils, hub oils, and more obviously. Why would any of those need a stabilizer if they blended a kick ass oil to begin with?
So once again where are the "amazing results?
What oils need stabilizing?
And finally since there are literally no additives in LOS wouldn't that actually be depleting the oils add pack by roughly 20% if you follow the directions on the bottle?

 

[Rajobigguy]

Dave please don't take this as an attack but there are a lot of things in this post that are just glaringly wrong. As I stated in an earlier post my job was to test lubricants and materials so I have a better understanding of this subject than most. I would like address the points that you make here. I put some notations in your post.

Go down to your local auto parts store and find a hand crank display.. don’t touch it! Take note of which gears have oil on them and which ones don’t.. .

then spin it and you will see the webbing. Someone was talking about dry starts earlier.. to me that hand crank display after it’s been sitting for a few days is one hell of a sales pitch in itself, as you can clearly see which gears are covered after it has been sitting idle.

I am not some oil expert nor a chemist.. but as I understand it the oil itself is the delivery vehicle for the additive packs.
That's not really correct, the purpose of the oil is to provide a barrier between the moving parts.
The additive packs are what actually do the lubricating and cleaning (yes there is detergents in them).
Again that is not really a correct statement. Oil additives are there for many purposes, there are things that prevent foaming, things that resist emulsification, there are long chain polymers that provide additional sheer resistance and a host of other possible things like friction modifiers and VI (viscosity index) improvers.
So far as the "detergents" that you speak of, they are not cleaning agents in the traditional sense. With regard to oil the term detergent means the oils ability to keep particulates in suspension so that the oil filter can remove the contaminants not the oils ability to clean parts. Detergent oil is essential in an engine that uses a pressurized lube system with filters, for engines that use splash lube you should use non detergent oil so the heavy particles settle out in the bottom of the crank case.
When the additive packs are depleted that is when it’s time to change the oils..

now further to the point made originally how you deliver those additive packs are important, oil is the vehicle. What Forrest has done is add a “sticky” ingredient to his stabilizer and upper cylinder lube etc, which helps the oil / additive packs stick to surfaces that are needing to be lubricated. It seems contrary to common sense when you are thinking about lubricants and “sticky.”
According to Lucas literature and there MSDS, there is nothing in their LOS other than petroleum distillates. That means that what they are doing is processing their product to have more long chain polymers that acts as VI improvers. That is pretty much the same thing that STP, Motor Honey and several products do. Essentially what these products do is improve the VI of the oil so the question is, if you need an oil with a different VI why not buy it that way to begin with because the manufacturer of the oil can do a better job molecularity bonding those VI improvers to the base oil than you can by adding something to it.

When you think about two gear teeth coming together though under pressure you will start to realize that the first thing that happens is the oil is squeezed out between the two leaving a film.. That film is what actually lubricated the two parts with pressure between them (if you had stopped there this statement would be correct) and the additives in the oil are the actual lubricant.. The better it sticks the more lubricant is delivered under pressure.

lucas oil stabilizer is basically a Giant additive pack blended with a sticky agent and a base oil.

A larger additive pack means you can run the oil longer between change intervals.. Larger additives mean more lubrication / more cleaning power (detergents) and again the sticky means better delivery.

Again, according to the Lucas site and the MSDS for this products there are no additives.
Make sense?

 

[milkmoney]

I stayed at a holiday inn last night and paid the mechanic to change my oil.

 

[240Hallett]

I stayed at a holiday inn last night and paid the mechanic to change my oil.

Did he pre-fill the filter?
Asking for another thread…

 

[RiverDave]

Well there ya have it. Lucas oil additives suck. Lol.

 

[milkmoney]

Did he pre-fill the filter?
Asking for another thread…

I didnt pay for the upgrade...

 

[RiverDave]

Dave please don't take this as an attack but there are a lot of things in this post that are just glaringly wrong. As I stated in an earlier post my job was to test lubricants and materials so I have a better understanding of this subject than most. I would like address the points that you make here. I put some notations in your post.

Im just going off what the chemists down at Lucas told me when I was down there.. They were the ones basically saying it was a giant additive pack.

Maybe they weren’t telling the truth? They had a bunch of fancy looking equipment and the guy seemed smart so?

like I said I’m not an oil expert or a chemist, that’s just the way they explained it to me.

As for the rest it’s pretty undeniable that when ya walk up to the little gear display the oil is still on one and not the other?

 

[FreeBird236]

Here’s an article I wrote years ago about upper cylinder lube, which some would call snake oils. Lol.
It addresses somethings ya might not have thought of like oil cushion / flash corrosion etc..

I believe in the product whole heartedly because I have seen the results and I have used it and not used it off and on over the years..

Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube - It's not about the MPG

In this article we are going to take a look at Lucas Oil's Upper Cylinder Lube, all the controversy that surrounds it, and why I (and YOU) should use it regularly. First lets read the description right off Lucas Oil's website so we have some...

www.riverdavesplace.com

Not trying to run down Lucas, but tried that stuff twice in my 5.7 Tundra and both times the smell out of the exhaust smelled like my catalytic converter was going out, not sure if it would have damaged something if I kept using it. The smell went away with new gas and that was about 40,000 miles ago and converters are still good.

 

[RiverDave]

Not trying to run down Lucas, but tried that stuff twice in my 5.7 Tundra and both times the smell out of the exhaust smelled like my catalytic converter was going out, not sure if it would have damaged something if I kept using it. The smell went away with new gas and that was about 40,000 miles ago and converters are still good.

First I have ever heard of that?

Like I said I don’t care if people use it or not.. I use it and have seen good results

 

[FreeBird236]

First I have ever heard of that?

Like I said I don’t care if people use it or not.. I use it and have seen good results

I was surprised myself and why I waited a few months and verified it caused it again.

 

[lbhsbz]

First I have ever heard of that?

Like I said I don’t care if people use it or not.. I use it and have seen good results

If you’d fix yore truck you’d notice zero results.

Things that work correctly can’t work better (not talking about mods/upgrades). Things that work poorly can always work better.

 

[Rajobigguy]

Well there ya have it. Lucas oil additives suck. Lol.

That's not exactly what I'm saying. I'm not even saying that you shouldn't use their products, all I'm saying is that we shouldn't promote using things based on anecdotal evidence and pseudoscience. I'm sorry if my post came off wrong.

 

[RiverDave]

If you’d fix yore truck you’d notice zero results.

Things that work correctly can’t work better (not talking about mods/upgrades). Things that work poorly can always work better.

Are you saying things don't get old and dirty, and can't be cleaned up via external additive?

RD