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Pool guys, HELP!!

4Waters

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I am at a loss. My heater fires but immediately goes out I have already checked for spiderwebs (stuck a piece of wire in the jets) what else to look for. It's a Hayward H350. My pool guy has no answers either, when he first started cleaning my pool he said he is not a fan of Hayward as their customer support sucks, I have called them and he is right.
 

Kbach

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Also is there a flame sensor on it? My motor home heater did the same thing and it turned out to be a flame sensor that wasn't adjusted right.
 

4Waters

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Also is there a flame sensor on it? My motor home heater did the same thing and it turned out to be a flame sensor that wasn't adjusted right.
It's part of the igniter and it's new, the wire chafed so I replaced it and everything was exact replacement OEM.
 

SoCalDave

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Can you hear the combustion fan cycle on at startup, how long will it fire before it shuts of flaming?
 

4Waters

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Can you hear the combustion fan cycle on at startup, how long will it fire before it shuts of flaming?
Its almost like a 2 stage process.

The igniter lights a pilot and then after 2-3 seconds it ignites the burners except it fires the burners and shuts off, the burners puff but that's it.
 

Mr. C

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Is the pool filter clean. To much back pressure ?? might be doing a safety shutdown.


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4Waters

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Here is a video (hard to here if it even downloads)

 

Willie B

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...Asked my next-door neighbor who manages a pool supply store in Calabasas ...said temp sensor...Dunno???...
 

DRYHEAT

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Propane? Maybe the regulator at the tank. That’s what it was when mine did the same thing. Pentair heater though.
 

Lumpy

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Dirty or bad pilot/sensor assembly...upon ignition the flame is being pulling off the sensor so it shuts off and tries again.
Probably a speck of something in the pilot orifice not allowing full pilot while running or if there is no pilot to the rail the igniter/sensor
is over has debris in it so when all burners ignite the flame is being pulled of the igniter/ flame sensor.
By the looks of it and the model its probably a aged unit. Ya Hayward does kinda suck.
 

4Waters

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Code e 5 sensor 35 bucks amazon or Leslie s
Confused as this is what comes up in Google. LOL

Screenshot_20200328-174332_Chrome.jpg
 

BUDMAN

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Mines 2 wires
This was what was wrong with mine when I had the same problem. Got it off amazon for like $20 bucks. Never seen a 2wire one before. But I’m not a pool guy 🤪
 

4Waters

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This was what was wrong with mine when I had the same problem. Got it off amazon for like $20 bucks. Never seen a 2wire one before. But I’m not a pool guy 🤪
Here's mine (I think, the book says temp limit sensor)

20200328_185411.jpg
 

4Waters

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No, at the outlet from the heater.
 

BUDMAN

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🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️ Where ever your temperature sensor is that should be your problem. Sorry I tried.
Anyone else have any ideas?
 

4Waters

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🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️ Where ever your temperature sensor is that should be your problem. Sorry I tried.
Anyone else have any ideas?
I may have to dig deeper into the heater. The trouble shooting guide in the book doesn't even have this problem as a possibility, I appreciate the input, I'm at a loss and this place has pulled through many of times. Hoping for one more.
 

yz450mm

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I may have to dig deeper into the heater. The trouble shooting guide in the book doesn't even have this problem as a possibility, I appreciate the input, I'm at a loss and this place has pulled through many of times. Hoping for one more.
You said it poofs, but not even a second or two of flame on the main burner?

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4Waters

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You said it poofs, but not even a second or two of flame on the main burner?

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I know, it's that quick and I'm pretty sure it's at the other end of the burner tube where the ignition point is and blows out.
 

HNL2LHC

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Right where I'm pointing

View attachment 860192

I am no pool guy either but I would give that sensor a try too. Kind of like your coolant temp on a car. It is contact with the liquid unlike Budman’s which pulls the temp through the pipe. :dunno: Be sure to post up the solution.....
 

4Waters

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I am no pool guy either but I would give that sensor a try too. Kind of like your coolant temp on a car. It is contact with the liquid unlike Budman’s which pulls the temp through the pipe. :dunno: Be sure to post up the solution.....
I will definitely post up the solution.
 

yz450mm

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I know, it's that quick and I'm pretty sure it's at the other end of the burner tube where the ignition point is and blows out.
Can you access the gas control valve? Give it a few gentle Love taps with the handle end of a screwdriver, turn on the system. Report back.

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4Waters

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Can you access the gas control valve? Give it a few gentle Love taps with the handle end of a screwdriver, turn on the system. Report back.

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Didn't make a difference.
 

4Waters

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So I hadn't gone out at night to see what was going on until now so here is a video. All burners are lighting.

 

yz450mm

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Flame sensor, or flow sensor

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 
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yz450mm

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If you have a meter, can you check continuity on the flow switch when the system is off versus on?

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Dan Lorenze

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I was having the same problem on my Jandy heater. I really did try to get a pool guy to come out to look at it but no one was interested, they were too busy. After reading online I replace a few sensors, temp and flame. But it still didn't fix the problem, the heater would fire up then shut off. So frustrating to say the least. I finally found a guy to come out and look at it. It turned out to be a problem on the heater board. My heater board has a couple of ways to wire it, a 4 wire and a 2 wire. My guy told me he just bypassed the 4 wire hookup and hooked it up using the 2 wire method, and BAM... Totally fixed my problem. So there was a workaround that this guy knew about on the circuit boat on the heater.
 

Melloyellovector

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@BUDMAN the sensor your pointing out is for your control system not the heater. It’s a water temp sensor and tells heaters to turn on but control based not heater. And FYI that is a 2 wire sensor, lol - follow it back to where it connects to board.

@4Waters Your heater by what I can see is a non low nox heater. No fan so that’s not the issue.
First check your gas supply valves outside of heater and on house. Sometimes they get bumped and partially closed. Sometimes easiest fix is the problem
The high limit is likely not it, if tripped you wouldn’t get any ignition
You mentioned you replaced igniter, why? Was it doing same as issue now?
You can test by placing a jumper one at a time across high limits, flow switch, etc... ( flow switch normally near header water inlet and outlet side of heater
note: if this isn’t your specialty be very fucking careful and stay clear of heater top and opening when testing! Jumping safeties can create explosive situation, causing instant hair loss at the very least.
Burner tray should come out, clean burners and orifices correctly. Igniter cleaned. Wire connections made correct. Old parts and new parts especially on hayward do not always connect in same slots as previous.
You can check continuity from a to a, b to b c to c etc pretty much same as doing a jumper but then your face is right in there as your testing.
Most likely is the flame sensor on igniter. Or orifice on burner closest to igniter
If neither of above. Then could be gas valve, ignition control, thermostat board, potentiometer, wire in between any of those ( rats love the shit out of heaters for living and eating up them tasty wires ) etc.

Not many pool guys even bother with a heaters more then 10 years old anymore. Not worth the headaches or call backs for hey it’s not working again and I paid you to fix it already. Easier to replace. That and most newer guys don’t even know how older stuff works. Repairs now a days are remove and replace.
 

HOOTER SLED-

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Initially would work.....then would never fire back up to keep the temp up in the spa......progressively got worse and would fire and then cut out.....now it just won't fire at all. I was thinking limit switch....but only tore into it a lil bit and never tried again.
 
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