Polaris Turbo R 4 Ultimate

[Bowtiepower00]

Now that I finally have around 600 miles on it, and have taken it to Glamis, I thought I’d start a thread about my Turbo R 4.

I picked the car up the weekend of SSSS here in PHX at Ridenow Goodyear. With a $5000 discount, I was right at 40 OTD. I was able to use online sand show discounts to order all of the parts and accessories I wanted, including Paddles and Beadlocks.

My goal was to build a capable and well equipped car, without burning too much money on things like cages, seats, etc, that are nice to have, but not “must-haves” IMO.

Some of the things I’ve added:

PCI radio/comms
Rugged pumper with adjustable switch and Bell helmets
BD 10” clear bar/ RZR hood mount
TMW front bumper with 4 BD squadron sports (amber)
BD RTL chase bar
5150 whips
Vet nets for the rear to keep my 10YO safe
RC door bags and rear seat bag
Switch-Pros
Polaris rear and side view mirrors
15” take off/ rampage fury spare
33” SS360 paddles on System 3 beadlocks
Decent amount of throwaway tools from HF, so I won’t be heartbroken if they get lost.

I run the spare with a Y- strap in the bed, it fits perfectly without a mount. I don’t run a spare at the dunes, but I threw one of my paddles in the back to see if a 33 will fit- and it will.

The majority of my riding is 30-60 mph desert trails/ rocks in the NW valley. Most of the guys I ride with run canned hams, with some RZRs thrown in- all turbos, a mix of 2 seat and 4 seat.

My impressions:

Car is huge, and is 75-76” wide at ride height. I have to strap the front to get it to fit in my TH, which is 74ish between the cabinet and the wall. A little over 13’ long.

Car is super tall with the factory cage, just over 80” but it clears the rear bunk even when strapped together.

Lots of 3 point turns on tight trails, and on less traveled trails I’m the full width of the trail- or wider in a lot of spots.

Ground clearance is excellent- even on 32s, I easily clear stuff the X3s drag over, my springs have not yet collapsed.

I have the ultimate, with the Fox dynamix shocks. Overall for most riding at sane speeds the car rides well, and loves the whoops. 90% of my riding I stay in baja mode (the stiffest) and the full firm “X” button works well on the big hits.

15-25 mph I can keep it in comfort mode, anything faster and I’m bottoming out. Today was the first ride we took it easy on, and I was able to use comfort mode quite a bit.

Rock mode works well on the few occasions that a wash turns to rock, but in general I don’t go looking for rocks. It’s a little stiffer than comfort mode.

Track mode is fine on the street, and off-road until you start adding speed, above 35-40 mph it starts to bottom in the rougher stuff.

Baja works well until you’re riding hard- if you’re hitting big stuff above 45-50 mph, or in the dunes, you’re going to run out of compression damping.

I typically have 50ish pounds of tools, my spare, and a small soft cooler in the car, and figure 350-400 pounds of passengers. The car doesn’t seem to notice the weight compared to the lighter cars- say a 64” RZR turbo.

In the dunes, I don’t carry a spare, but everything else I listed above. The car does not have enough compression damping and bottoms frequently when running hard.

Frankly, the car needs suspension tuning if you’re going to be running it hard.

Clutch wise, moderate running, not really an issue. When running hard in the desert, I get enough slip to occasionally go into limp mode for a second- but not enough to throw a code. In the dunes on 33’s, I need a better clutch. I did not blow a belt- but there was slip. Keep in mind, the group I was running with at Glamis were all in built/ tuned rigs and run pretty hard. For less aggressive riding, your opinion might vary.

I will likely add an AA clutch kit including helix this summer. Possibly a stage 2 tune.

That brings us to power and fuel economy. This is a heavy car. In the desert, I have plenty of power and rarely use full throttle. In the dunes however, the X3s, even stock, are quite a bit quicker/ faster. Most of the guys I ride with have tuned cars- and they will gap me pretty hard when they get on it. I didn’t have any issues keeping up, until the long straights.

Fuel economy is much worse than the canned hams, I got just under 6 mpg running to duner diner and back, used 11.5 gallons to go 66 miles. This was pretty much WFO running- our group of 8 cars lost 4 belts on the ride- luckily I wasn’t one of them. The other RZRs weren’t any better. We all came back to camp with the low fuel light on, while the X3s have 1/8-1/4 tank left.

I have read the Pro uses even more fuel than the Turbo, but I haven’t rode with one yet to compare. My typical ride from my house on desert trails is 40-60 miles and I usually end up topping off with 5-6 gallons when I get home.

I see a lot of guys in the speed threads considering the R cars, and I wanted to have a few miles on mine before I did a write up. I really like the car overall. It has its flaws, and the typical Polaris issues, but I was expecting that going in.

I don’t feel that it’s far superior to the canned ham, they are both good cars. I prefer the Rotax drivetrain and ability to add power through tuning. But everyone in my neighborhood has a damn X3.

A long-winded overview. If anyone has any questions fire away. If anyone in the NW valley wants to meet up for a ride, hit me up.

 

[Badchoices03]

What trailer are you running?

 

[Bowtiepower00]

What trailer are you running?

Genesis Wanderer 28SAWL, I have a thread in the RV section with more about the trailer.

 

[DLC]

Nice write up! A lot of great info to consider!
Maybe in time a bigger fuel tank will pop up! I added the Trail tank to my Can am ( it’s plus 4 gal ) and it’s nice to know you got a little extra on longer rides.

Congratulations on the new car!

Happy New Year!

 

[DLC]

How do you like your light set up?

the 10“ onxy is a fantastic light!

I have mine on the shock tower like yours and use it All the time even during the day!

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

That is great info. Thank you for this great write up. I really have my eye on one of these.

I am personally torn if I do get one to go with the Walker car or the Fox Dynamix car. I love the idea of the OS button on the steering wheel, but I feel like there is more adjustment with the manual valved shocks, but the Fox setup clearly has the ability to offer higher total performance, if set up perfectly.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

That is great info. Thank you for this great write up. I really have my eye on one of these.

I am personally torn if I do get one to go with the Walker car or the Fox Dynamix car. I love the idea of the OS button on the steering wheel, but I feel like there is more adjustment with the manual valved shocks, but the Fox setup clearly has the ability to offer higher total performance, if set up perfectly.

Yeah I think this description nails it perfectly.

IMO, the Fox IQS system is the cats ass. Allowing adjustment on the fly, to what the user wants, not some preset setting that Polaris thinks is best.

In my experience, the Dynamix is great for 75% of riders who can’t/won’t/don’t know or do shock tuning on their own, and for those that do not usually push their cars beyond 70-80% on the trails.

For people who really push their cars, and aren’t afraid to do some tuning, Dynamix leaves something to be desired.

To be honest, most of the guys I ride with have tuned Foxes on their rides, and anyone with Walkers is in an inferior unsafe death trap and subject to ridicule. If I had known from the start that I would need to tune these shocks I probably would have got a car with Walkers and had them done with the savings. I expected to need springs, but not valving. That being said, I think the Walkers are 2.5 front and 3.0 rear, and the Fox are 3.0 all around, if that matters at all.

Now- to be fair- the car rides really well in most circumstances, I get no fade even when the shocks are too hot to touch, and the X button works really well. In the desert, most of the time I can see the big hits coming up, and hit the button in time to glide over even big hits and jumps.

In the dunes however, I simply don’t have enough time to read and react, and bottom out frequently. As I mentioned, the group I was with was running pretty hard, and I’m relatively new to the dunes- so some of that might be driver induced- so take that as you will.

I’m not saying Dynamix sucks, far from it- but it’s not perfect.

If I were starting over, I would give a hard look at a sport, the 10k savings would purchase shock tuning, a Lowrance, cage, seats, harnesses, and doors.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

How do you like your light set up?

the 10“ onxy is a fantastic light!

I have mine on the shock tower like yours and use it All the time even during the day!

The X3 has some pretty great shock and hood mounts available.

The BD hood mount for the RZR mounts into body panels via speed nuts, so it’s not quite as solid.

The mounting brackets required some spacing to clear the hood, which was easily accomplished using some trick black spacers that I had laying around from a TV wall mount, lol.

The adjustment slots on the brackets do not have quite enough range so the light has an ever so slight downward angle to it when adjusted to the end of its travel. I could clearance them but I haven’t really deemed it necessary.

The 10” OnX6 is super bright, and the hood mounting location is great. Paired with the 4 amber pods on the bumper, I have plenty of light most of the time, especially when running in a group.

I am running BD amber covers over the lights, which cut down on output a little, when running alone or leading I’ll take the cover off the bar and run it clear, but when following or in dusty conditions I prefer it on.

There are some occasions when I would like more light- mostly when running alone at night (which is rare) or at night when there’s not much dust (which is also rare). I would like to add a roof bar, but I’m not going to dump 800-1200 on another BD 30-40” bar to use it a few times a year. I will probably add a Rough Country or other budget bar this summer, I already ran the wires through the cage when I installed my SP.

Also, as much of a beating as my roof takes, there is a high likelyhood of damage to any bar that I mount up there.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Yeah I think this description nails it perfectly.

IMO, the Fox IQS system is the cats ass. Allowing adjustment on the fly, to what the user wants, not some preset setting that Polaris thinks is best.

In my experience, the Dynamix is great for 75% of riders who can’t/won’t/don’t know or do shock tuning on their own, and for those that do not usually push their cars beyond 70-80% on the trails.

For people who really push their cars, and aren’t afraid to do some tuning, Dynamix leaves something to be desired.

To be honest, most of the guys I ride with have tuned Foxes on their rides, and anyone with Walkers is in an inferior unsafe death trap and subject to ridicule. If I had known from the start that I would need to tune these shocks I probably would have got a car with Walkers and had them done with the savings. I expected to need springs, but not valving. That being said, I think the Walkers are 2.5 front and 3.0 rear, and the Fox are 3.0 all around, if that matters at all.

Now- to be fair- the car rides really well in most circumstances, I get no fade even when the shocks are too hot to touch, and the X button works really well. In the desert, most of the time I can see the big hits coming up, and hit the button in time to glide over even big hits and jumps.

In the dunes however, I simply don’t have enough time to read and react, and bottom out frequently. As I mentioned, the group I was with was running pretty hard, and I’m relatively new to the dunes- so some of that might be driver induced- so take that as you will.

I’m not saying Dynamix sucks, far from it- but it’s not perfect.

If I were starting over, I would give a hard look at a sport, the 10k savings would purchase shock tuning, a Lowrance, cage, seats, harnesses, and doors.

I am truly leaning the same direction. I just have not been in a revalved Turbo R with Fox shocks yet, but my experience in the Turbo S Dynamix revalved cars is what I am basing my thoughts off of.

FWIW, I am super happy so far with the dual adjusters I added to the Walker shocks on my current car. I still need the front shocks to dial it in. Those adjusters will fit the Walker Velocity shocks on the Turbo S and Turbo R and Pro R…

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Do you have any idea what secondary spring is equipped on the Turbo R? A revised spring was used in the 2021 Pro XP and also works in the Turbo XP and Turbo S to eliminate the belt slip.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Do you have any idea what secondary spring is equipped on the Turbo R? A revised spring was used in the 2021 Pro XP and also works in the Turbo XP and Turbo S to eliminate the belt slip.

I believe it’s the same as the updated/ revised setup in the Pro XP, based on the reading that I’ve done.

My plan is to keep enjoying the car for the rest of the season, and install an AA stage 1 lock and load kit with their stage 2 tuning and revolver clutch plate. I believe that’s similar to what you installed on your car.

2020-Up RZR Pro XP/Turbo R/Pro S Stage 1 Lock & Load Kit

Kit fits all 2020-Up Pro XP/Turbo R/Pro S 2 & 4 Seat models *Note 2021-Up models have a different helix design and do not need the pre-airbox intake tube* Price difference for years reflects this. Lock & Load! This Stage 1 kit provides a big increase in horsepower and torque simplified into an...

aftermarketassassins.com

This link has quite a bit of info on the P90X clutch:

RZR Pro XP, Turbo R & 2021 XPT Slipping/Alignment/Failure

**Updated 1/11/2023**

aftermarketassassins.com

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I believe it’s the same as the updated/ revised setup in the Pro XP, based on the reading that I’ve done.

My plan is to keep enjoying the car for the rest of the season, and install an AA stage 1 lock and load kit with their stage 2 tuning and revolver clutch plate. I believe that’s similar to what you installed on your car.

2020-Up RZR Pro XP/Turbo R/Pro S Stage 1 Lock & Load Kit

Kit fits all 2020-Up Pro XP/Turbo R/Pro S 2 & 4 Seat models *Note 2021-Up models have a different helix design and do not need the pre-airbox intake tube* Price difference for years reflects this. Lock & Load! This Stage 1 kit provides a big increase in horsepower and torque simplified into an...

aftermarketassassins.com

This link has quite a bit of info on the P90X clutch:

RZR Pro XP, Turbo R & 2021 XPT Slipping/Alignment/Failure

**Updated 1/11/2023**

aftermarketassassins.com

Yes similar setup but I do not have the P90x. My neighbor does in his ‘21 Turbo and did the AA clutch. I will ask him if he did the one with the helix or not. He really likes it so far.

 

[DLC]

The X3 has some pretty great shock and hood mounts available.

The BD hood mount for the RZR mounts into body panels via speed nuts, so it’s not quite as solid.

The mounting brackets required some spacing to clear the hood, which was easily accomplished using some trick black spacers that I had laying around from a TV wall mount, lol.

The adjustment slots on the brackets do not have quite enough range so the light has an ever so slight downward angle to it when adjusted to the end of its travel. I could clearance them but I haven’t really deemed it necessary.

The 10” OnX6 is super bright, and the hood mounting location is great. Paired with the 4 amber pods on the bumper, I have plenty of light most of the time, especially when running in a group.

I am running BD amber covers over the lights, which cut down on output a little, when running alone or leading I’ll take the cover off the bar and run it clear, but when following or in dusty conditions I prefer it on.

There are some occasions when I would like more light- mostly when running alone at night (which is rare) or at night when there’s not much dust (which is also rare). I would like to add a roof bar, but I’m not going to dump 800-1200 on another BD 30-40” bar to use it a few times a year. I will probably add a Rough Country or other budget bar this summer, I already ran the wires through the cage when I installed my SP.

Also, as much of a beating as my roof takes, there is a high likelyhood of damage to any bar that I mount up there.

maybe try 2- XL80’s in exchange for the middle 2 squadrons

move the 2 middle up to the A piller if you need more or kick ‘‘em to the side to see turns.

I run the 10 inch on the shock tower and have 3 -XL80’s on the frt bumper and it’s day time, I also use the amber lens

the XL80’s throw double the light as the squadrons

 

[Bowtiepower00]

maybe try 2- XL80’s in exchange for the middle 2 squadrons

move the 2 middle up to the A piller if you need more or kick ‘‘em to the side to see turns.

I run the 10 inch on the shock tower and have 3 -XL80’s on the frt bumper and it’s day time, I also use the amber lens

the XL80’s throw double the light as the squadrons View attachment 1185848

I’m actually pretty happy with my current setup, and never feel like I’m outrunning my current lighting- but when I go out with guys that have a row of XLs or a 30-40” bar across the roof, turning night into day, there are times I would like a little extra.

Someday on my next build, I agree, I will probably do some XL pods from the start.

Or, I could always throw the squadrons on my Ram and go for the gusto. Lol.

 

[throttle]

 

[Xring01]

Your review, is exactly why I bought my 2020 KRX 1000 used 6 months ago ish….

If I spent $40K on a BRAND NEW TOY, that fucker better meet my expectations, and not need another $5-$10K to meet them… Seriously this kind of money and RZR doesnt have the well known clutch issues/belt issues resolved…

Yeah… enough said, not trying to turn this into a RZR bashing thread…

BTW… my neighbor has the same car, about 6 months old now, and he is about to send his shocks off to ST to get dialed in.

 

[counterpart7]

Yeah I think this description nails it perfectly.

IMO, the Fox IQS system is the cats ass. Allowing adjustment on the fly, to what the user wants, not some preset setting that Polaris thinks is best.

In my experience, the Dynamix is great for 75% of riders who can’t/won’t/don’t know or do shock tuning on their own, and for those that do not usually push their cars beyond 70-80% on the trails.

For people who really push their cars, and aren’t afraid to do some tuning, Dynamix leaves something to be desired.

To be honest, most of the guys I ride with have tuned Foxes on their rides, and anyone with Walkers is in an inferior unsafe death trap and subject to ridicule. If I had known from the start that I would need to tune these shocks I probably would have got a car with Walkers and had them done with the savings. I expected to need springs, but not valving. That being said, I think the Walkers are 2.5 front and 3.0 rear, and the Fox are 3.0 all around, if that matters at all.

Now- to be fair- the car rides really well in most circumstances, I get no fade even when the shocks are too hot to touch, and the X button works really well. In the desert, most of the time I can see the big hits coming up, and hit the button in time to glide over even big hits and jumps.

In the dunes however, I simply don’t have enough time to read and react, and bottom out frequently. As I mentioned, the group I was with was running pretty hard, and I’m relatively new to the dunes- so some of that might be driver induced- so take that as you will.

I’m not saying Dynamix sucks, far from it- but it’s not perfect.

If I were starting over, I would give a hard look at a sport, the 10k savings would purchase shock tuning, a Lowrance, cage, seats, harnesses, and doors.

Having driven quite a few Dynamix cars, I totally agree.

Technically the Dynamix are 2.5” pistons and bodies because of the IBP style that Fox uses.

I’m a big fan of the Walker equipped cars. Their bottom out zone works really well and you get a true 2.5/3.0 shock setup. I also prefer to feel the car move around naturally and be able to set the front end for turns which I feel is lost in the Dynamix.

Maybe for the guy just getting into offroad the Dynamix is great. But if you’ve grown up with offroad toys that body rolled and weight transferred, the Walkers will feel much more natural and in my opinion, more fun.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Thought I’d bump this with an end of season update. I have about 1100 miles on the car now, and have done a variety of terrain with it.

After using the Dynamix some more, I am pretty impressed with it, the modes work well, I’ve done all sorts of terrain, and it does great over washboard, rocks, you name it. For most riders and conditions I do not think further tuning is required. After riding with a larger number of other people, I have come to the conclusion that the group of neighbors I do most of my riding with run considerably faster than 75% of the people who own these things.

My springs have not collapsed yet, so I am not planning any suspension upgrades at the moment. I will revisit that next season depending on how much duning I end up doing. For the desert stuff I usually do, I am comfortable using the X button to soak up the big hits.

I have only had one issue with the machine, and that was an intermittent limp mode with and without a check engine light. It finally gave me a diagnostic code that was for an oxygen sensor. I attempted to clean the sensor, which I figured was a long shot, without success.

My car was one affected by the fuel pump stop ride for a possible leak, but I wasn’t going to waste my whole season. I checked for leaks but never noticed any seepage or fuel smell. I finally received notice of a fix, and as a goodwill measure an extended 6 months of warranty. I just took the unit in for the new pump, and had them check the code(s) in the computer, they said the fuel pump should fix them.

I took the car out for one last ride on Wednesday to Boulders to test the new pump and check for codes, and after 60-70 hard miles I had no limp modes, no engine light, and no issues, car ran great.

Tires are completely shot at this point, I’m likely going to try the new System 3 DX440 in 33x10.

I am also going to upgrade the clutch, leaning toward a hunterworks unit.

Overall, a great season, kept the rubber side down, and had lots of good times with friends and family.

Ride to Wickenburg in April:

Crown King with RDP group for Mother’s Day:

Munds Park for Memorial Day:

Letting my son drive for the first time:

Last ride of the season at Boulders:

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Awesome news. The car looks great. My friend with one had the same experience with his minus the limp mode. He has a bit of spring sag, but is also pretty happy with the suspension overall. I think he will go through the suspension for next season.

Did you see the new Tensor Regulator 2 that just came out? They look like a very promising tire choice as well.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Thanks. I have not looked at the Regulator 2s, but I will give them a look. One of the guys I ride with runs the original Regulators, he put a brand new set on, and on back to back rides he had a complete sidewall failure on each trip- put a bad taste in my mouth. Probably a fluke, I’m sure, but nobody else in our group had any issues. I did look at the DS, but it sounds like they wear quickly and they are fairly expensive.

I don’t need a tire that wears like iron and goes 5000 miles, but I’d like something I can hopefully get 2 seasons out of. I didn’t mind the Rampage Fury’s, I had no flats or air loss, and I hit stuff hard enough to take a chunk out of one of my wheels. But they are completely worn at 1000 miles.

Weight is also a consideration, I see a lot of people running 35s on these cars, if I was doing a lot of rocks I might consider it, but in all of my riding I can only think of a handful of times I wish that I had more clearance, and I never actually got hung up enough to get stuck, even on 32s. This car is already big/ heavy/ slow enough, and I dont really want to tune it, yet.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Thanks. I have not looked at the Regulator 2s, but I will give them a look. One of the guys I ride with runs the original Regulators, he put a brand new set on, and on back to back rides he had a complete sidewall failure on each trip- put a bad taste in my mouth. Probably a fluke, I’m sure, but nobody else in our group had any issues. I did look at the DS, but it sounds like they wear quickly and they are fairly expensive.

I don’t need a tire that wears like iron and goes 5000 miles, but I’d like something I can hopefully get 2 seasons out of. I didn’t mind the Rampage Fury’s, I had no flats or air loss, and I hit stuff hard enough to take a chunk out of one of my wheels. But they are completely worn at 1000 miles.

Weight is also a consideration, I see a lot of people running 35s on these cars, if I was doing a lot of rocks I might consider it, but in all of my riding I can only think of a handful of times I wish that I had more clearance, and I never actually got hung up enough to get stuck, even on 32s. This car is already big/ heavy/ slow enough, and I dont really want to tune it, yet.

Our thinking 33”s are the sweet spot is exactly the same. The Regulator 2s look like a DS carcass but with a harder compound to last longer. Again, they are brand new so I don’t know what “lasts longer” means…as DS tires were smoked in 500 miles. The original Regulators were tanks.. but tire technology marched on. I have the same fear with the BFGs as I’ve seen a ton of sidewall cuts in our group.. but I was fine in the few hundred miles I ran them.

I think you are spot on with tire choices though. I’m looking at the DX440 over the Rt320 as well if I don’t go with the Regulator 2s

 

[Bryan721]

Thanks. I have not looked at the Regulator 2s, but I will give them a look. One of the guys I ride with runs the original Regulators, he put a brand new set on, and on back to back rides he had a complete sidewall failure on each trip- put a bad taste in my mouth. Probably a fluke, I’m sure, but nobody else in our group had any issues. I did look at the DS, but it sounds like they wear quickly and they are fairly expensive.

I don’t need a tire that wears like iron and goes 5000 miles, but I’d like something I can hopefully get 2 seasons out of. I didn’t mind the Rampage Fury’s, I had no flats or air loss, and I hit stuff hard enough to take a chunk out of one of my wheels. But they are completely worn at 1000 miles.

Weight is also a consideration, I see a lot of people running 35s on these cars, if I was doing a lot of rocks I might consider it, but in all of my riding I can only think of a handful of times I wish that I had more clearance, and I never actually got hung up enough to get stuck, even on 32s. This car is already big/ heavy/ slow enough, and I dont really want to tune it, yet.

Check out the Pro Armor Pro Runners, 33X9.5X15 I ran them for about 1200 miles with zero flats and had plenty of tread left. They weigh 38LBS each

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Our thinking 33”s are the sweet spot is exactly the same. The Regulator 2s look like a DS carcass but with a harder compound to last longer. Again, they are brand new so I don’t know what “lasts longer” means…as DS tires were smoked in 500 miles. The original Regulators were tanks.. but tire technology marched on. I have the same fear with the BFGs as I’ve seen a ton of sidewall cuts in our group.. but I was fine in the few hundred miles I ran them.

I think you are spot on with tire choices though. I’m looking at the DX440 over the Rt320 as well if I don’t go with the Regulator 2s

View attachment 1238052

@Bowtiepower00 I have 5 of these on order. Might be a couple months into the season before I get them on. My 32"s still have some life left. If I get my Speed Car this season these may go directly on that one, and The Speed tires will go on my RZR.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

@Bowtiepower00 I have 5 of these on order. Might be a couple months into the season before I get them on. My 32"s still have some life left. If I get my Speed Car this season these may go directly on that one, and The Speed tires will go on my RZR.

I’m hoping to find a deal on a set during off-road expo season. Probably 33s, but might end up with 32s or 35s, I plan on going on Sunday when they don’t want to haul everything home. Did that with my SS360 paddles last year and got a great deal. I’ve found the DX 33s for 750ish a set online.

The Rampage Fury tires that came on it are pretty much slicks at 1100 miles.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I’m hoping to find a deal on a set during off-road expo season. Probably 33s, but might end up with 32s or 35s, I plan on going on Sunday when they don’t want to haul everything home. Did that with my SS360 paddles last year and got a great deal. I’ve found the DX 33s for 750ish a set online.

The Rampage Fury tires that came on it are pretty much slicks at 1100 miles.

Good plan! FYI we inquired about 35"s and they are not available yet. That may change by Offroad Show time.

These 33"s won't ship for a few weeks, they are on backorder.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Been looking for a decent cooler for awhile, I’m not a fan of soft side coolers and I wanted one that fit in place of one of the rear seats, while allowing me to open the lid while tied down. Found a Grizzly Kanai 25qt that is made in the USA, and when it went on sale for prime day I snagged one. I’ll figure out something more permanent for tie downs before the season starts.

Ran into a buddy who invited me on a Night Ride tonight, did about 70 miles to an Abandoned Mine, couldn’t let the group be all canned hams… lol.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Finally got new tires and a set of beadlocks. Locally I found the Reg 2s for 250/ tire mounted. I was considering a set of Method 401r wheels, but I missed the sale and didn’t want to wait until Black Friday for the next one.

Ended up with System 3 wheels and DX440s. A little heavier than the Methods, but I have another set of SB-7s with SS360s as my sand setup and I’ve been happy with them.

I was going to check the off-road expo in 2 weeks, but KJ motorsports had a sale last weekend, and I was able to get a set of 5 delivered for just over $2k, I didn’t think I’d be able to beat that at the show so I pulled the trigger.

It runs big for a 33, I really had to Wedge the spare in there but it fits.

Have a Boulders run planned for Sunday to get the first test/ ride of the season in, mid 80s with some wind to hopefully keep the dust down.

Back to Flag for fall break after that.

 

[Hammer]

I'm glad I found this thread. Great info, I'm in the market for this very car I think. I was leaning towards a Turbo S until I sat in an R today.

I wasn't sure if I should hold out for a Dynamix car or be okay with a Premium and revalve/re-spring it.

We will use it in the dunes and the desert.


Keep the updates coming.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

I like the Dynamix, and the modes do work pretty well. I don’t know how often I would adjust a set of tuned Walkers, but I use the Dynamix everytime I take the car out, and often times I change settings multiple times per ride. That being said- especially in the dunes- expect to have your shocks tuned. The X Button works well, but I end up using it a lot.

I will probably hold off until next offseason before I pull the trigger on valving/ springs. I don’t think it’s an absolute must have like it is on some other cars, unless you run higher speeds frequently.

 

[Hammer]

I like the Dynamix, and the modes do work pretty well. I don’t know how often I would adjust a set of tuned Walkers, but I use the Dynamix everytime I take the car out, and often times I change settings multiple times per ride. That being said- especially in the dunes- expect to have your shocks tuned. The X Button works well, but I end up using it a lot.

I will probably hold off until next offseason before I pull the trigger on valving/ springs. I don’t think it’s an absolute must have like it is on some other cars, unless you run higher speeds frequently.

It was must on my current ‘16 RZR. I just assumed they all need valving and springs. I haven’t been paying attention to the latest models because I had to see if my kids were going to fall in love with the desert or not. All three are obsessed (thank god. Lol) now it’s time for upgrade an and some more power.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

It was must on my current ‘16 RZR. I just assumed they all need valving and springs. I haven’t been paying attention to the latest models because I had to see if my kids were going to fall in love with the desert or not. All three are obsessed (thank god. Lol) now it’s time for upgrade an and some more power.

The Fox shocks work well. The Walkers revalved and resprung are really good too. You can also add the dual adjusters to them, that helps. If I get a Turbo R I’m getting the one with the manual Walker shocks.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Finally got new tires and a set of beadlocks. Locally I found the Reg 2s for 250/ tire mounted. I was considering a set of Method 401r wheels, but I missed the sale and didn’t want to wait until Black Friday for the next one.

Ended up with System 3 wheels and DX440s. A little heavier than the Methods, but I have another set of SB-7s with SS360s as my sand setup and I’ve been happy with them.

I was going to check the off-road expo in 2 weeks, but KJ motorsports had a sale last weekend, and I was able to get a set of 5 delivered for just over $2k, I didn’t think I’d be able to beat that at the show so I pulled the trigger.

It runs big for a 33, I really had to Wedge the spare in there but it fits.

Have a Boulders run planned for Sunday to get the first test/ ride of the season in, mid 80s with some wind to hopefully keep the dust down.

Back to Flag for fall break after that.
View attachment 1283666 View attachment 1283667 View attachment 1283668

That looks awesome. Interested to hear how you like those tires. I have not got my Reg 2s mounted yet.

 

[Hammer]

The Fox shocks work well. The Walkers revalved and resprung are really good too. You can also add the dual adjusters to them, that helps. If I get a Turbo R I’m getting the one with the manual Walker shocks.

Good to know! Thanks!

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Did 80 miles today in the Boulders area NW of PHX. Revisited the mine from the previous night ride, and explored some other trails. Boulders was pretty active so we tried to get away from the busy areas. New tires are great. Ran them at 16psi, and they performed well. Dropped the spare down to 12 and it dropped into the bed like the old 32 did, but it’s still tight.

 

[Hammer]

Bumping this thread, I sold my car and found a 22 turbo r premium with walkers for 28k, no ADM, but I also found A couple ‘22 sports for less Money, like 22k. What is the difference between a turbo r sport and a turbo r? Going to need a car on the quick lol.
Any input will be great.

too many models and all the websites say the same shit. I don’t need a stereo, or ride command really. can someone give me the quick version at what models I need to look at?

it seems @Bowtiepower00 car is what I should find. Dynamix isn’t a must have? Am I right?

I appreciate this thread. Part of me thinks I need to look at a can am after reading back over this.

my must haves at some point

• seats and a rear bench
• car 2 car
• cage
• lights
• revalve/respiring suspension

 

[NicPaus]

Bumping this thread, I sold my car and found a 22 turbo r premium with walkers for 28k, no ADM, but I also found A couple ‘22 sports for less Money, like 22k. What is the difference between a turbo r sport and a turbo r? Going to need a car on the quick lol.
Any input will be great.

too many models and all the websites say the same shit. I don’t need a stereo, or ride command really. can someone give me the quick version at what models I need to look at?

it seems @Bowtiepower00 car is what I should find. Dynamix isn’t a must have? Am I right?

I appreciate this thread. Part of me thinks I need to look at a can am after reading back over this.

my must haves at some point

• seats and a rear bench
• car 2 car
• cage
• lights
• revalve/respiring suspension

@Bpracing1127 and @LargeOrangeFont are knowledgeable on this.

I put a deposit on a turbo sport last year at sandshow. But backed out. It is not the 72 wide only 64. But the back seat had a lot of leg room. It was 30,200 otd. Have since seen them for 26k otd on a post from Utah dealer.

 

[Hammer]

@Bpracing1127 and @LargeOrangeFont are knowledgeable on this.

I put a deposit on a turbo sport last year at sandshow. But backed out. It is not the 72 wide only 64. But the back seat had a lot of leg room. It was 30,200 otd. Have since seen them for 26k otd on a post from Utah dealer.

Thank you for the insight. I thought the sport may not have the 72” wide suspension. That’s what I needed to know.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Turbo R Sport has no roof and no ride command. Same basic car. Only difference between premium and ultimate is the Dynamix. And colors. It was about a 5k MSRP jump between each level when I bought mine. I would have got a a sport at the time, but the only one they had in stock had a bunch of upgrades done and cost more than an ultimate. I believe they dropped the sport (turbo R only) sometime in 23. If you’re replacing the cage, tuning the shocks, and don’t need ride command, get the sport.

Pro XP is the 64” car, in the same trim levels.

Turbo R is basically a Pro XP with a Pro R suspension. Same interior, etc. There’s a few other subtle differences but that’s the meat and potatoes. You just have to make sure you’re buying the right parts when getting aftermarket stuff.

Here is a shitty “screenshot” of the basic differences when shopping for parts.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

I will add, all of the guys I ride with have X3s. I much prefer the Can-am drivetrain- and I’m comparing rubber band cars- not the new Mav R. The can am is quite a bit lighter and much quicker. If I were building a car (SXS) primarily for dune usage, I would start with a X3. Or Pro R. The downside to the X3, IMO, is that it takes a lot more upgrades (gussets, arms, radius rods, doors, cage, etc) that I would consider mandatory, which makes them cost more than the Turbo R once you start building them. The Turbo R does not need all of that stuff out the door. A lot of can-am guys say the upgrades are not necessary, but I don’t agree based on what I’ve seen riding with them.

If you’re primarily in the desert, the Turbo R is the better car. The suspension is night and day better. Even before it’s tuned. And it’s not close.

If you think you will end up tuning the engine in the Turbo R, and you have the room, I would look at a Pro R- especially if you’re going to be duning a lot. I go to glamis, but most of my riding is in the desert.

The Turbo R is a big, heavy car. It is not the light, nimble ride the earlier turbo cars are, and is not as “flingable”. But it feels more stable and planted in the rough stuff.

 

[Hammer]

Turbo R Sport has no roof and no ride command. Same basic car. Only difference between premium and ultimate is the Dynamix. And colors. It was about a 5k MSRP jump between each level when I bought mine. I would have got a a sport at the time, but the only one they had in stock had a bunch of upgrades done and cost more than an ultimate. I believe they dropped the sport (turbo R only) sometime in 23. If you’re replacing the cage, tuning the shocks, and don’t need ride command, get the sport.

Pro XP is the 64” car, in the same trim levels.

Turbo R is basically a Pro XP with a Pro R suspension. Same interior, etc. There’s a few other subtle differences but that’s the meat and potatoes. You just have to make sure you’re buying the right parts when getting aftermarket stuff.

View attachment 1295535
Here is a shitty “screenshot” of the basic differences when shopping for parts.

I will add, all of the guys I ride with have X3s. I much prefer the Can-am drivetrain- and I’m comparing rubber band cars- not the new Mav R. The can am is quite a bit lighter and much quicker. If I were building a car (SXS) primarily for dune usage, I would start with a X3. Or Pro R. The downside to the X3, IMO, is that it takes a lot more upgrades (gussets, arms, radius rods, doors, cage, etc) that I would consider mandatory, which makes them cost more than the Turbo R once you start building them. The Turbo R does not need all of that stuff out the door. A lot of can-am guys say the upgrades are not necessary, but I don’t agree based on what I’ve seen riding with them.

If you’re primarily in the desert, the Turbo R is the better car. The suspension is night and day better. Even before it’s tuned. And it’s not close.

If you think you will end up tuning the engine in the Turbo R, and you have the room, I would look at a Pro R- especially if you’re going to be duning a lot. I go to glamis, but most of my riding is in the desert.

The Turbo R is a big, heavy car. It is not the light, nimble ride the earlier turbo cars are, and is not as “flingable”. But it feels more stable and planted in the rough stuff.

Great Insight, thank you.

X3- I don't necessarily want to go through all the upgrades to make the X3 structurally sound. I feel they need more work to keep the chassis from failing, I agree with the points you made.. That and they look awfully long compared to a Turbo/Pro R. I prefer the looks of the Polaris, wife likes the X3, if we were going with a two seater I'd consider it.

My gut says go with the Turbo R sport. For the price point specifically. I don't care for the colors on the premium I found, I don't necessarily want to have to wrap it and powder coat suspension components to fit my color tastes. I plan to have it for awhile.

Everyone I talked too about the Pro R says they are heavy and tend to push in turns due to the weight and aren't as nimble as the Turbo R. I also hear the power to weight ratio is better on the Turbo R.

We are primarily in the Desert(Jawbone/Dove Springs etc....) as well. But we still hit Glamis a few times a year. That was the only time I felt I needed a new car/more power.

I'd prefer not to spend 40+K on a Pro R. I'd assume I'd leave the engine alone on the Turbo R. At the same time, I don't think I've left any toy I've owned stock. It's only a matter of time before I get bored and want more power. It's in my blood....

you say it's not "flingable", would you go back to a Turbo S over an R?

Thanks for the feedback...

 

[Bowtiepower00]

If I were to do it over again, I would still get the Turbo R. I would get a sport and do a cage, lowrance, shock tuning, etc, from the start. I agree with your assessment of the X3, and I have considered looking for a built 2 seater in a year or two for a more dune specific car. I don’t have room for a true sand car in my TH.

I actually like ride command, it is easier to use compared to a lowrance, but you don’t get the detail on the maps and it’s harder to share tracks. That being said, I would still get a sport and add a lowrance. I am not a fan of using tablet based nav in a sxs, they seem to gave issues or overheat half of the time.

I came from a Yamaha viking prior to this, but I have driven my buddies cars. Most of my time was in a tuned 64” Polaris turbo car. 2 adults, or 2 adults/ 2 small kids, it absolutely rips, and feels like a go-kart compared to the Turbo R. Put 3 or 4 adults in it, and you definitely feel the weight on the suspension.

The Turbo R is a foot wider and longer, and weighs 500+ more pounds. It’s still fun to drive- but you definitely notice the size and weight.

The Turbo R doesn’t care how much weight is in it. It just soaks up the rough stuff, and floats over everything- until you start really hauling ass and then you run out of damping. Weekend after Veterans I will be at glamis for a guys trip, and it will be my first time in the car without passengers- I am looking forward to seeing if there’s a difference. Usually it’s me, the old lady, and my 11YO. And sometimes grandpa too. And tools and cooler. Plus a spare in the desert.

At the prices I’ve been seeing, absolutely get the sport. Polaris must have had a ton of 22s stored somewhere waiting on chips, because this time last year they were all sold out, and then a month or two ago they began to flood the market again.

22 cars have the early ball joints, if you’re going to do a build right out the gate, add a set to the list and do them ASAP, along with the lower shock forks/ mounts when you get the shocks tuned. I would also tune the clutch. That should eliminate all of the weak points on the car. I believe the 22s had better front brake rotors as well. Make sure, if you get a 22, that the fuel tank/ pump recall has been done before you take delivery.

 

[Hammer]

If I were to do it over again, I would still get the Turbo R. I would get a sport and do a cage, lowrance, shock tuning, etc, from the start. I agree with your assessment of the X3, and I have considered looking for a built 2 seater in a year or two for a more dune specific car. I don’t have room for a true sand car in my TH.

I actually like ride command, it is easier to use compared to a lowrance, but you don’t get the detail on the maps and it’s harder to share tracks. That being said, I would still get a sport and add a lowrance. I am not a fan of using tablet based nav in a sxs, they seem to gave issues or overheat half of the time.

I came from a Yamaha viking prior to this, but I have driven my buddies cars. Most of my time was in a tuned 64” Polaris turbo car. 2 adults, or 2 adults/ 2 small kids, it absolutely rips, and feels like a go-kart compared to the Turbo R. Put 3 or 4 adults in it, and you definitely feel the weight on the suspension.

The Turbo R is a foot wider and longer, and weighs 500+ more pounds. It’s still fun to drive- but you definitely notice the size and weight.

The Turbo R doesn’t care how much weight is in it. It just soaks up the rough stuff, and floats over everything- until you start really hauling ass and then you run out of damping. Weekend after Veterans I will be at glamis for a guys trip, and it will be my first time in the car without passengers- I am looking forward to seeing if there’s a difference. Usually it’s me, the old lady, and my 11YO. And sometimes grandpa too. And tools and cooler. Plus a spare in the desert.

At the prices I’ve been seeing, absolutely get the sport. Polaris must have had a ton of 22s stored somewhere waiting on chips, because this time last year they were all sold out, and then a month or two ago they began to flood the market again.

22 cars have the early ball joints, if you’re going to do a build right out the gate, add a set to the list and do them ASAP, along with the lower shock forks/ mounts when you get the shocks tuned. I would also tune the clutch. That should eliminate all of the weak points on the car. I believe the 22s had better front brake rotors as well. Make sure, if you get a 22, that the fuel tank/ pump recall has been done before you take delivery.

Looks like we are practically in the same program/Dilemma. I'd love a true sand car, but it doesn't work with my program unless I got a bigger trailer and everything snowballs from there. I'd consider a two seat dune specific SXS as well, let the wife run the 4 seater in a few years with the kids. She gets car sick and doesn't dune... Sand Highway and Vendors row is her ride... .

I typically run my car with all 5 of us, Adults on occasion.

Thanks again, time to expand my browser and search.. I hope I don't regret not going after an S, I'd be the first in my group with an R, Everyone else has a Turbo S..

 

[Bowtiepower00]

The S is a great car, but the R is the next, better evolution of that car. You will not regret it. I have at least one riding buddy who is in the process of moving from S to R.

 

[Hammer]

The S is a great car, but the R is the next, better evolution of that car. You will not regret it. I have at least one riding buddy who is in the process of moving from S to R.

Thanks for confirming my thought. I don't want to be chasing the next evolution of cars because I went with an earlier model. I also don't want to inherit a used piece of shit with hidden problems. If it was a quad or dirt bike it wouldn't be a big deal. I also want it done "my way" from the start. I could say fuck it and buy a Pro R...

Great feedback.... Hopefully we can hook up for a trip!

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Thanks for confirming my thought. I don't want to be chasing the next evolution of cars because I went with an earlier model. I also don't want to inherit a used piece of shit with hidden problems. If it was a quad or dirt bike it wouldn't be a big deal. I also want it done "my way" from the start. I could say fuck it and buy a Pro R...

Great feedback.... Hopefully we can hook up for a trip!

Absolutely! I have a monthly Glamis trip planned for the rest of dune season, and am also trying to get out to Havasu for some riding this season. If you ever make it to NW Phoenix (Surprise), I have a ton of trails reachable from my neighborhood.

I have no regrets. The Turbo R got overshadowed by the Pro, and now the Mav R, and Speed car, but I still think it’s the best value on the market- especially at todays prices.

 

[Hammer]

Absolutely! I have a monthly Glamis trip planned for the rest of dune season, and am also trying to get out to Havasu for some riding this season. If you ever make it to NW Phoenix (Surprise), I have a ton of trails reachable from my neighborhood.

I have no regrets. The Turbo R got overshadowed by the Pro, and now the Mav R, and Speed car, but I still think it’s the best value on the market- especially at todays prices.

We went house hunting in Surprise last year trying to get out of CA. But that’s another thread.

I want to run out there Williams/Prescott/Utah etc… and get some SXS trips going and explore.

We will have to plan something in that area or Glamis. Just need a car first. Stay tuned….

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I will add, all of the guys I ride with have X3s. I much prefer the Can-am drivetrain- and I’m comparing rubber band cars- not the new Mav R. The can am is quite a bit lighter and much quicker. If I were building a car (SXS) primarily for dune usage, I would start with a X3. Or Pro R. The downside to the X3, IMO, is that it takes a lot more upgrades (gussets, arms, radius rods, doors, cage, etc) that I would consider mandatory, which makes them cost more than the Turbo R once you start building them. The Turbo R does not need all of that stuff out the door. A lot of can-am guys say the upgrades are not necessary, but I don’t agree based on what I’ve seen riding with them.

If you’re primarily in the desert, the Turbo R is the better car. The suspension is night and day better. Even before it’s tuned. And it’s not close.

If you think you will end up tuning the engine in the Turbo R, and you have the room, I would look at a Pro R- especially if you’re going to be duning a lot. I go to glamis, but most of my riding is in the desert.

The Turbo R is a big, heavy car. It is not the light, nimble ride the earlier turbo cars are, and is not as “flingable”. But it feels more stable and planted in the rough stuff.

This is spot on.

I agree it’s probably the best all around car on the market. The other is the current X3 if you want something to modify.

 

[Hammer]

We may have a car in a day or two

 

[Jonas Grumby]

If I were to do it over again, I would still get the Turbo R. I would get a sport and do a cage, lowrance, shock tuning, etc, from the start. I agree with your assessment of the X3, and I have considered looking for a built 2 seater in a year or two for a more dune specific car. I don’t have room for a true sand car in my TH.

I actually like ride command, it is easier to use compared to a lowrance, but you don’t get the detail on the maps and it’s harder to share tracks. That being said, I would still get a sport and add a lowrance. I am not a fan of using tablet based nav in a sxs, they seem to gave issues or overheat half of the time.

I came from a Yamaha viking prior to this, but I have driven my buddies cars. Most of my time was in a tuned 64” Polaris turbo car. 2 adults, or 2 adults/ 2 small kids, it absolutely rips, and feels like a go-kart compared to the Turbo R. Put 3 or 4 adults in it, and you definitely feel the weight on the suspension.

The Turbo R is a foot wider and longer, and weighs 500+ more pounds. It’s still fun to drive- but you definitely notice the size and weight.

The Turbo R doesn’t care how much weight is in it. It just soaks up the rough stuff, and floats over everything- until you start really hauling ass and then you run out of damping. Weekend after Veterans I will be at glamis for a guys trip, and it will be my first time in the car without passengers- I am looking forward to seeing if there’s a difference. Usually it’s me, the old lady, and my 11YO. And sometimes grandpa too. And tools and cooler. Plus a spare in the desert.

At the prices I’ve been seeing, absolutely get the sport. Polaris must have had a ton of 22s stored somewhere waiting on chips, because this time last year they were all sold out, and then a month or two ago they began to flood the market again.

22 cars have the early ball joints, if you’re going to do a build right out the gate, add a set to the list and do them ASAP, along with the lower shock forks/ mounts when you get the shocks tuned. I would also tune the clutch. That should eliminate all of the weak points on the car. I believe the 22s had better front brake rotors as well. Make sure, if you get a 22, that the fuel tank/ pump recall has been done before you take delivery.

Who do you suggest to rework the walkers? Shock therapy?
Where have you seen these deals on 2022’s?

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Who do you suggest to rework the walkers? Shock therapy?
Where have you seen these deals on 2022’s?

DC Shocks if you are near San Dimas or Havasu.

ST if you are near Phoenix.