Polaris Turbo R 4 Ultimate

[Bowtiepower00]

The dunes is hard on these cars. I was originally doing 25 hour service intervals, but I’m going to do the front diff after each trip to Glamis just to be safe. I had some fine glitter in my demand drive fluid but they didn’t find any major damage when they tore it apart so I didn’t need anything else replaced while it was being rebuilt.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Got out again today solo and was able to run the car hard on some faster trails. MTS Suspension worked flawlessly, X button was not needed over terrain that would have made the car bottom even with it pressed with the stock suspension. At 55+ the car just eats up hardpack. In larger closely spaced whoops I’m able to carry much more speed and let the car get on top where before it would pogo and become uncontrollable at faster speeds. I’m glad I did the ball joints, gussets, and bolts because the car is capable of carrying much more speed over any terrain. Hit some slow rocky sections and the car felt as soft as it did stock in Rock mode. There is a much better difference between the suspension modes now, I can run in comfort at lower speeds and the car will eat stuff up at higher speeds without bottoming in Baja mode. Should have my rear limit straps tomorrow.

Been working a lot so next ride will be MLK weekend, probably at boulders. Then a trip to Glamis for Presidents.

Just crossed 2000 miles today (still on original belt, lol) electrical gremlins seem to be fixed, no engine lights or limp mode for my last few rides.

The System 3 DX400s have performed well but are wearing quickly. They will be toast by 1000 miles. Does anyone have higher miles on a set of Regulator 2s yet? BFGs don’t appear to be available in 33s and I don’t think I want to spend the money on a tire mount to fit a 35 over the bed. Leaning Toyo or Nitto for next season. Anyone getting 2000+ miles out of those? 5 pounds heavier but hopefully a longer wearing tire. A set of tires every season is getting old.

 

[Bpracing1127]

Got out again today solo and was able to run the car hard on some faster trails. MTS Suspension worked flawlessly, X button was not needed over terrain that would have made the car bottom even with it pressed with the stock suspension. At 55+ the car just eats up hardpack. In larger closely spaced whoops I’m able to carry much more speed and let the car get on top where before it would pogo and become uncontrollable at faster speeds. I’m glad I did the ball joints, gussets, and bolts because the car is capable of carrying much more speed over any terrain. Hit some slow rocky sections and the car felt as soft as it did stock in Rock mode. There is a much better difference between the suspension modes now, I can run in comfort at lower speeds and the car will eat stuff up at higher speeds without bottoming in Baja mode. Should have my rear limit straps tomorrow.

Been working a lot so next ride will be MLK weekend, probably at boulders. Then a trip to Glamis for Presidents.

Just crossed 2000 miles today (still on original belt, lol) electrical gremlins seem to be fixed, no engine lights or limp mode for my last few rides.

The System 3 DX400s have performed well but are wearing quickly. They will be toast by 1000 miles. Does anyone have higher miles on a set of Regulator 2s yet? BFGs don’t appear to be available in 33s and I don’t think I want to spend the money on a tire mount to fit a 35 over the bed. Leaning Toyo or Nitto for next season. Anyone getting 2000+ miles out of those? 5 pounds heavier but hopefully a longer wearing tire. A set of tires every season is getting old.
View attachment 1466535

I have the 33” regulator 2 on my turbo s4

I have about 500 miles on them and they look brand new. I think these will go to 3000 miles easy.

These regulator 2 don’t slide like my bfg did. They are actually a faster tire. But in the sand like Glamis type sand they are not good.

The sand washes like mohave or standard wash sand they do well in it. Hard pack dirt is where these shine. Same with graded roads. They are not loose at all. Rocks they also do well. Not over the top there but well.

Mud unknown.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

I have the 33” regulator 2 on my turbo s4

I have about 500 miles on them and they look brand new. I think these will go to 3000 miles easy.

These regulator 2 don’t slide like my bfg did. They are actually a faster tire. But in the sand like Glamis type sand they are not good.

The sand washes like mohave or standard wash sand they do well in it. Hard pack dirt is where these shine. Same with graded roads. They are not loose at all. Rocks they also do well. Not over the top there but well.

Mud unknown.

Keep us updated, I know you put a ton of miles on. If I can get decent mileage out of them I’d love to run the Reg 2, lightweight and rounded carcass. I prefer a locked in tire over one that slides around. It sounds like I run the same terrain you do, mostly hardpack and washes with sand and occasional rock- only hit mud in a few spots if I’m out after it rains. I avoided the DS/DSR because I know they wear quickly. The original Regulator was a good tire.

 

[Bpracing1127]

Keep us updated, I know you put a ton of miles on. If I can get decent mileage out of them I’d love to run the Reg 2, lightweight and rounded carcass. I prefer a locked in tire over one that slides around. It sounds like I run the same terrain you do, mostly hardpack and washes with sand and occasional rock- only hit mud in a few spots if I’m out after it rains. I avoided the DS/DSR because I know they wear quickly. The original Regulator was a good tire.

Will do. I have another friend on his 2 can am x3 with them. He has about 1500 on his. Says wearing nicely.

Also. They do not balance out well so on street you do a shake a little. But in dirt you don’t even notice.

Lastly. Braking is good but not great. My bfg stopped better. So dive bombing into a corner it’s easy to blow the corner at first. I just have to stand on the pedal a little harder or earlier. But because they grip well I can get on the gas way way sooner

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Will do. I have another friend on his 2 can am x3 with them. He has about 1500 on his. Says wearing nicely.

Also. They do not balance out well so on street you do a shake a little. But in dirt you don’t even notice.

Lastly. Braking is good but not great. My bfg stopped better. So dive bombing into a corner it’s easy to blow the corner at first. I just have to stand on the pedal a little harder or earlier. But because they grip well I can get on the gas way way sooner

Great info, thanks. That is a spot on description of the DX440s as well.

 

[02HoWaRd26]

Got out again today solo and was able to run the car hard on some faster trails. MTS Suspension worked flawlessly, X button was not needed over terrain that would have made the car bottom even with it pressed with the stock suspension. At 55+ the car just eats up hardpack. In larger closely spaced whoops I’m able to carry much more speed and let the car get on top where before it would pogo and become uncontrollable at faster speeds. I’m glad I did the ball joints, gussets, and bolts because the car is capable of carrying much more speed over any terrain. Hit some slow rocky sections and the car felt as soft as it did stock in Rock mode. There is a much better difference between the suspension modes now, I can run in comfort at lower speeds and the car will eat stuff up at higher speeds without bottoming in Baja mode. Should have my rear limit straps tomorrow.

Been working a lot so next ride will be MLK weekend, probably at boulders. Then a trip to Glamis for Presidents.

Just crossed 2000 miles today (still on original belt, lol) electrical gremlins seem to be fixed, no engine lights or limp mode for my last few rides.

The System 3 DX400s have performed well but are wearing quickly. They will be toast by 1000 miles. Does anyone have higher miles on a set of Regulator 2s yet? BFGs don’t appear to be available in 33s and I don’t think I want to spend the money on a tire mount to fit a 35 over the bed. Leaning Toyo or Nitto for next season. Anyone getting 2000+ miles out of those? 5 pounds heavier but hopefully a longer wearing tire. A set of tires every season is getting old.
View attachment 1466535

So the Black ops ball joints went right in and worked with the stock arms and hubs?
Been looking at those, as well the CT front rear gusset kit and bolts. Theirs isn’t supposed to need cut down at all which is nice.
Santa brought a new 25 R Ultimate for the family for Christmas, so far I’ve done the front fork cups and forks, radio, wheels and tires. It leaves for SF Raceworks this week to get caged and nets than i plan to start addressing the suspension. So far I’m very impressed with it, but also have ran it to its capabilities already i feel so plan to use MTS as well. I already removed the shock caps and drilled and tapped them to put shraders in them that made a decent difference in itself. Using the needle tool which you’ll obviously lose some upon insertion, showed on my gauge a max of 130 on one and the lowest was 65 on another but all four shocks were very different settings.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

So the Black ops ball joints went right in and worked with the stock arms and hubs?
Been looking at those, as well the CT front rear gusset kit and bolts. Theirs isn’t supposed to need cut down at all which is nice.
Santa brought a new 25 R Ultimate for the family for Christmas, so far I’ve done the front fork cups and forks, radio, wheels and tires. It leaves for SF Raceworks this week to get caged and nets than i plan to start addressing the suspension. So far I’m very impressed with it, but also have ran it to its capabilities already i feel so plan to use MTS as well. I already removed the shock caps and drilled and tapped them to put shraders in them that made a decent difference in itself. Using the needle tool which you’ll obviously lose some upon insertion, showed on my gauge a max of 130 on one and the lowest was 65 on another but all four shocks were very different settings.
View attachment 1466719

Correct, the BOM ball joints fit the stock arms, I would recommend using their install cups to make things easier. You aren’t able to access the grease fittings on the lowers with the axles installed but there’s room to run a 90 degree fitting on the lower cap. I looked at the CT kit, but it was $100ish more, cutting the bolts wasn’t that bad, but I think either kit is worth doing.

I would do the MTS springs sooner rather than later, the difference is night and day- more than I expected. If you think the suspension is good now your mind will be blown once you do the springs. Don’t forget the limit straps, the car has a ton of droop and it’s nice to save the wear on the CVs.

You will need a large press type spring compressor to get the new springs on, I was able to get the old ones off using a regular spring compressor. I was not able to adjust the new springs on the car even with the suspension drooped- MTS suggested using one of these on the car and it worked well to set ride height:

VEVOR Strut Spring Compressor Set, Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor Kit, Interchangeable Fork Strut Coil Extractor Remover Tool, with Yellow Protective Sleeve and Carrying Case | VEVOR US

VEVOR strut spring compressor set with 9921 lbs load capacity, interchangeable yokes, and triple-layer safety features ensures secure and versatile spring removal.

m.vevor.com

I would also suggest looking into some type of body protector for the front shocks, you might be able to get a set from the rears to fit, even after clocking the springs I’m getting some wear on the bodies.

I have tried running the car with and without the front sway bar, and in all situations I prefer the car with the sway bar installed.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Here’s a neat gadget I saw over on GD, I’d be interested to speak to someone who has used it to see what it is capable of:

E-CLIK | RZR Pro R | Polaris UTV Parts | Shop By Make | SXS Suspension Direct

Suspension Direct in a vendor and manufacturer of suspension parts for Motocross and UTV Applications, selling brands such as WP, Showa, KYB, Walker Evans, and Fox

www.suspensiondirect.com

I don’t know if a revalve is needed for desert, possibly if running 60+ frequently. But I have read that many tuners have issues dialing in the live valve dynamix 2.0 shocks requiring a couple of revalves to get them dialed in.

I will say, the car is now capable of what I consider to be the upper end of recreational speeds through rough terrain- I’m sure it’s capable of going faster but it’s eating up stuff to the point I feel I’m getting close to the line between aggressive running and abuse. I’m not one to hammer on my stuff though. Others might disagree.

 

[02HoWaRd26]

Correct, the BOM ball joints fit the stock arms, I would recommend using their install cups to make things easier. You aren’t able to access the grease fittings on the lowers with the axles installed but there’s room to run a 90 degree fitting on the lower cap. I looked at the CT kit, but it was $100ish more, cutting the bolts wasn’t that bad, but I think either kit is worth doing.

I would do the MTS springs sooner rather than later, the difference is night and day- more than I expected. If you think the suspension is good now your mind will be blown once you do the springs. Don’t forget the limit straps, the car has a ton of droop and it’s nice to save the wear on the CVs.

You will need a large press type spring compressor to get the new springs on, I was able to get the old ones off using a regular spring compressor. I was not able to adjust the new springs on the car even with the suspension drooped- MTS suggested using one of these on the car and it worked well to set ride height:

VEVOR Strut Spring Compressor Set, Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor Kit, Interchangeable Fork Strut Coil Extractor Remover Tool, with Yellow Protective Sleeve and Carrying Case | VEVOR US

VEVOR strut spring compressor set with 9921 lbs load capacity, interchangeable yokes, and triple-layer safety features ensures secure and versatile spring removal.

m.vevor.com

I would also suggest looking into some type of body protector for the front shocks, you might be able to get a set from the rears to fit, even after clocking the springs I’m getting some wear on the bodies.

I have tried running the car with and without the front sway bar, and in all situations I prefer the car with the sway bar installed.

Yea I’ve got a spring compressor already it’s definitely a tool worth having.
I’m not doing springs till the car is done, i have four corner scales also so I’ll be able to get the rates easier. Also be able to do some balancing of the car once they’re installed. It’s amazing what you can do with the scales to set the ride height perfectly with occupants etc.
for example this is how close i was able to get the buggy without occupants but all tools etc. later got it pretty close even with my 220 and her 115 in front.

 

[02HoWaRd26]

Correct, the BOM ball joints fit the stock arms, I would recommend using their install cups to make things easier. You aren’t able to access the grease fittings on the lowers with the axles installed but there’s room to run a 90 degree fitting on the lower cap. I looked at the CT kit, but it was $100ish more, cutting the bolts wasn’t that bad, but I think either kit is worth doing.

I would do the MTS springs sooner rather than later, the difference is night and day- more than I expected. If you think the suspension is good now your mind will be blown once you do the springs. Don’t forget the limit straps, the car has a ton of droop and it’s nice to save the wear on the CVs.

You will need a large press type spring compressor to get the new springs on, I was able to get the old ones off using a regular spring compressor. I was not able to adjust the new springs on the car even with the suspension drooped- MTS suggested using one of these on the car and it worked well to set ride height:

VEVOR Strut Spring Compressor Set, Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor Kit, Interchangeable Fork Strut Coil Extractor Remover Tool, with Yellow Protective Sleeve and Carrying Case | VEVOR US

VEVOR strut spring compressor set with 9921 lbs load capacity, interchangeable yokes, and triple-layer safety features ensures secure and versatile spring removal.

m.vevor.com

I would also suggest looking into some type of body protector for the front shocks, you might be able to get a set from the rears to fit, even after clocking the springs I’m getting some wear on the bodies.

I have tried running the car with and without the front sway bar, and in all situations I prefer the car with the sway bar installed.

What upper joints did you use? I have the lowers and cups in my cart now.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

What upper joints did you use? I have the lowers and cups in my cart now.

I think it’s the same upper joint for all of the RZR models from the 1000 and up

Edit: I think it was this one, but you might want to call to be sure

Heavy Duty Polaris Ball Joint - Black Ops Machine

Our Heavy Duty Bolt-In Polaris XP1000 Ball Joint is top-of-the-line. We have fast & affordable shipping and offer discounts to all Military & 1st Responders

blackopsmachine.com

 

[02HoWaRd26]

I think it’s the same upper joint for all of the RZR models from the 1000 and up

Edit: I think it was this one, but you might want to call to be sure

Heavy Duty Polaris Ball Joint - Black Ops Machine

Our Heavy Duty Bolt-In Polaris XP1000 Ball Joint is top-of-the-line. We have fast & affordable shipping and offer discounts to all Military & 1st Responders

blackopsmachine.com

Dude so i looked at those but when you scroll down it says “nothing worse then when your lower ball joint breaks…” so i clicked back out. But i do see now looking at it it’s the upper you can see in the mount. Thanks.

Did you need to use the cup and the clamp or just one of them to do the install?

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Dude so i looked at those but when you scroll down it says “nothing worse then when your lower ball joint breaks…” so i clicked back out. But i do see now looking at it it’s the upper you can see in the mount. Thanks.

Did you need to use the cup and the clamp or just one of them to do the install?

Yeah I was wondering what you were referring to so I went to the website and saw the same thing, lol. You will also need the clamp- I ordered a ball joint press off Amazon and used it for removal, but was having a hell of a time installing a couple of the new ones so I ordered the cups. I don’t think they were available when I bought the ball joints a year earlier. They do some killer deals at events if you are able to catch them in person.

This is the set I ordered:

Amazon.com

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Limit straps installed:

 

[Bpracing1127]

Limit straps installed:
View attachment 1467124 View attachment 1467125

Did you feel you needed them? I have them on the front of my turbo s but not the rear

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Did you feel you needed them? I have them on the front of my turbo s but not the rear

Yes, the car has a ton of droop, so more to save the cvs than anything. The front seems to feel better with them installed, the rears were just released, so I am looking forward to seeing if there’s a noticeable difference. I did get the occasional banging at full extension from the rears so it should help with that if nothing else.

 

[02HoWaRd26]

Limit straps installed:
View attachment 1467124 View attachment 1467125

I went back and forth on these or the ST set, and have these on order. Not sure if they’ll get here before it leaves for the cage tho.

 

[Bowtiepower00]

First ride at the dunes with the new suspension. It was significantly improved, but still bottomed in the bigger dips at the dune bases when running hard. The X Button helped- didn’t need to use it nearly as much and it eliminated the violent bottoming the car did stock- but some valving is in my future for sure. I’ll probably hold off a season or two until the shocks need rebuilt before I get them done, and do the shafts/ forks at the same time.

My original belt served me well for 2000 miles and several dune trips and I considered replacing it before the trip but since it was the last trip of the season i decided to send it. In the middle of a pretty hard ride I heard a boom and pulled the cover to replace the belt. Shit. The inner sheave exploded taking out the rest of the primary, secondary, and inner clutch cover.

This happened in the middle of some good sized dunes over by the drags around 4pm Saturday. We got the car towed out and called one of the guys in our group who was at vendors grabbing a bite to eat. He ran over to KWI and they agreed to stay open late to get my car put back together.

Ended up with their RZRX300 primary with razor blade inner sheave and other upgrades. Car picked up some midrange power- I gained the ability to spin the paddles and rotate the car in the turns, it doesn’t feel overpaddled like it did before running HP cut 33” SS360s. Haven’t done a top speed run to see if there’s any changes there, best I’ve seen is just under 80mph in the desert.

Big shout out to Joe and Chris at KWI. They also had their Ultrashift clutch available, but after speaking with them about my plans for the car (200-225whp once tuned) they said spending the extra wasn’t necessary and didn’t try to upsell me.

I also asked about cover vs no cover and they said the Turbo R with the newer cover and cooling system runs best with the stock cover in place and not modified (no added blowers, etc.)

On another note, I finally got a chance to run a stock Pro R at the drags and he pulled me pretty good. I never had a problem keeping up with my (fast, built SXS) group in the dunes with the new suspension upgrades- before when they really started pushing the pace I would fall behind with the car bottoming out all over. Now that the clutch is addressed I see a tune and some other upgrades in my future, lol.