Opinions on pro charger ?

[Dirty Daytona]

I sold my Daytona a couple of years ago and I’m back in the boat game. I bought a 1999 Eagle 28 xp, mid cabin open bow. It’s got a 500 EFI with a pro charger, 270 hours scanned. I’m looking for some opinions here…..leave the pro charger on or take it off? My biggest concern is long term reliability. Supposedly, it’s “low boost” and only adds 100 HP. I would appreciate any opinions from people with actual knowledge and/or procharger experience. Thanks.

 

[COCA COLA COWBOY]

I would leave it and just make sure you maintain the engine very well and don't skimp on oil or filtration. You'll open another can of worms removing it because it may be tuned for the boost. At the end of the day, the engine will need to be rebuilt at some point, if the blower is only putting out 5-7 pounds of boost, that most likely won't be the cause. If you were at 14 pounds or more, than you may want to worry.

Be sure to use good gas and try to remove all gas in the off season. You'll definitely have a problem if you get bad gas and detonate the engine.

 

[Dirty Daytona]

Thanks for the reply. Supposedly it’s only 5 pounds of boost sooooooo…….hopefully not an issue. On the lake test the boat ran super strong and the boost gauge never showed over 5.

 

[Rajobigguy]

With only 5 lbs of boost that blower could actually make the engine more reliable.

 

[69hondo]

I have a Procharger on my Fundeck.
Never one problem associated with it. Supposedly they are easy on the outdrives as well.
Procharger is easy to deal with as well if you need it serviced.

 

[Bpracing1127]

I have a Procharger on my Fundeck.
Never one problem associated with it. Supposedly they are easy on the outdrives as well.
Procharger is easy to deal with as well if you need it serviced.

This…

 

[renodaytona]

My 2000 Daytona had a HP500 with an added vortex supercharger (procharger style). I ran that boat for half a year and blew up the motor. It had a custom EFI system on it, it was a fast boat until it wasn't

 

[Mikemo_SDS]

Major problem that I have seen with ProChargers is that they usually scab water for the inter cooler off of the 1” line coming off of the water pump exit and the center cylinders have trouble staying cool. FYI

 

[DaveH]

With only 5 lbs of boost that blower could actually make the engine more reliable.

the old saying "the bulb that burns twice as bright burns half as long" comes to mind. i would have a hard to believing the engine would be more reliable/last longer with the supercharger.

you can greatly increase the reliability factor with responsible use of the throttle........but that aint no fun now is it?

 

[gqchris]

I want an older Foxbody with a period correct Vortech on it soooooo bad!

 

[AZLineman]

I ran a P1SC for five years on a 454 mag HO at 5 pounds and it was a flawless experience. I have run one on my nova for the last 3+ at 9 pounds with a 125 shot of nitrous on top of that and it has been flawless as well. The one thing I did learn and some people will disagree but they like to be vented. The other thing I did/do is ditch the pro charger oil and run Amsoil or Royal purp synchromesh.

 

[Runs2rch]

I sold my Daytona a couple of years ago and I’m back in the boat game. I bought a 1999 Eagle 28 xp, mid cabin open bow. It’s got a 500 EFI with a pro charger, 270 hours scanned. I’m looking for some opinions here…..leave the pro charger on or take it off? My biggest concern is long term reliability. Supposedly, it’s “low boost” and only adds 100 HP. I would appreciate any opinions from people with actual knowledge and/or procharger experience. Thanks.

This one?

1999 ELIMINATOR BOATS 28 EAGLE | Horizon Motorsports

Horizon Motorsports is a Motorsports and Marine dealership located in Lake Havasu City, AZ. We carry boats, off-road, cars, trailers, RVs and jet skis from many manufacturers such as DCB and Playcraft, and high-quality evaporative coolers from Portacool. We also provide financing near the areas...

www.horizonmotorsportsllc.com

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Leave it. With good maintenance it will run a very long time.

 

[Rajobigguy]

the old saying "the bulb that burns twice as bright burns half as long" comes to mind. i would have a hard to believing the engine would be more reliable/last longer with the supercharger.

you can greatly increase the reliability factor with responsible use of the throttle........but that aint no fun now is it?

Let me try to explain the physics of that.
In a normal 4 cycle engine you are constantly loading and unloading the rod
Because during the intake cycle you are sucking air in so you are unloading the rod and rod bearing. Then during the compression cycle you are applying load to the rod and bearing. If you have forced induction then the rod is never completely unloaded so the bearing maintains a consistent hydrodynamic film throughout the entire cycle. That’s why I say that with low boost you may very well be extending bearing life.
You may also be doing your intake valves a favor but the physics behind that are more complicated than I care to spend the time typing on my phone.

 

[rivermobster]

I sold my Daytona a couple of years ago and I’m back in the boat game. I bought a 1999 Eagle 28 xp, mid cabin open bow. It’s got a 500 EFI with a pro charger, 270 hours scanned. I’m looking for some opinions here…..leave the pro charger on or take it off? My biggest concern is long term reliability. Supposedly, it’s “low boost” and only adds 100 HP. I would appreciate any opinions from people with actual knowledge and/or procharger experience. Thanks.

Any marine engine is going to last only so long.

Are you taking a Massive amount of hours off the engine, by running 5psi of boost?

I'm thinking nope. Run it and enjoy the ride.

 

[lbhsbz]

Let me try to explain the physics of that.
In a normal 4 cycle engine you are constantly loading and unloading the rod
Because during the intake cycle you are sucking air in so you are unloading the rod and rod bearing. Then during the compression cycle you are applying load to the rod and bearing. If you have forced induction then the rod is never completely unloaded so the bearing maintains a consistent hydrodynamic film throughout the entire cycle. That’s why I say that with low boost you may very well be extending bearing life.
You may also be doing your intake valves a favor but the physics behind that are more complicated than I care to spend the time typing on my phone.

If you think 5psi of boost has any effect on the oil wedge at the rod bearings you're high as fuck.

 

[Dirty Daytona]

Yep that one lol

 

[BHC Vic]

I think @02HoWaRd26 woukd have good info

 

[parker guy]

Make sure you run 91 octane, run tanks down and replace with new fuel each time.

 

[Dirty Daytona]

I think @02HoWaRd26 woukd have good info

Peter knows I’m never on the throttle lmao!!! Any info on the pro charger for me Peter?

 

[DWC]

If you think 5psi of boost has any effect on the oil wedge at the rod bearings you're high as fuck.

 

[rivrrts429]

Without being intercooled they build a bunch of heat when ran for extended periods.

I wouldn’t have an issue running one but just be aware of their weaknesses.

5lbs of boost is pretty soft. You’re not ringing it’s neck, or near it, at that boost. It wouldn’t bother me to run it.

 

[Rajobigguy]

If you think 5psi of boost has any effect on the oil wedge at the rod bearings you're high as fuck.

Now that’s not very polite. I outlined the physics of what’s happening inside an engine that is boosted vs naturally aspirated. These are facts. Now if you believe that those facts don’t have any measurable effect on the rotating assembly then that is an opinion that you have a right to hold but no need to be insulting about it.
Now had you of said “while that physics support that idea, I doubt that it would have any significant impact” I might have actually agreed with you.

 

[mash on it]

Let me try to explain the physics of that.
In a normal 4 cycle engine you are constantly loading and unloading the rod
Because during the intake cycle you are sucking air in so you are unloading the rod and rod bearing. Then during the compression cycle you are applying load to the rod and bearing. If you have forced induction then the rod is never completely unloaded so the bearing maintains a consistent hydrodynamic film throughout the entire cycle. That’s why I say that with low boost you may very well be extending bearing life.
You may also be doing your intake valves a favor but the physics behind that are more complicated than I care to spend the time typing on my phone.

Gale Banks just recently explained something very similar, but diesel and boost, I think?

Dan'l

 

[Wave Hi]

 

[Dirty Daytona]

I didn’t mean to start a battle here lol. I thank everyone for their input. The consensus I’m going with is just run it, maintain it well and I should be fine.

 

[Wizard29]

I didn’t mean to start a battle here lol. I thank everyone for their input. The consensus I’m going with is just run it, maintain it well and I should be fine.

This exactly. I had a Procharger on a 496Mag years ago. Don't beat the crap out of it and keep the oil changed and it'll be okay.

 

[Dirty Daytona]

I didn’t know the pro charger was water cooled….

 

[Rajobigguy]

Gale Banks just recently explained something very similar, but diesel and boost, I think?

Dan'l

Most people that deal with boosted engines understand what going on and if actually sit down and do the math it’s surprising how much cyclic load you remove but honestly even looking at those big numbers there is enough overkill built into a modern engine that it really isn’t going to make much difference. The point that I was trying to make is that you’re not going to hurt anything at that boost level.

 

[Dirty Daytona]

I didn’t know the pro charger was water cooled….

I was responding to the response above talking about “scabbing” water from the motor…

 

[69hondo]

I was responding to the response above talking about “scabbing” water from the motor…

For the intercooler

 

[Rajobigguy]

Major problem that I have seen with ProChargers is that they usually scab water for the inter cooler off of the 1” line coming off of the water pump exit and the center cylinders have trouble staying cool. FYI

Well it’s a boat with lots of water around it. I suppose you could make up a independent pick up and separate pump for the intercooler.

 

[thetub]

Well it’s a boat with lots of water around it. I suppose you could make up a independent pick up and separate pump for the intercooler.

that what im thinking ????

 

[lbhsbz]

Now that’s not very polite. I outlined the physics of what’s happening inside an engine that is boosted vs naturally aspirated. These are facts. Now if you believe that those facts don’t have any measurable effect on the rotating assembly then that is an opinion that you have a right to hold but no need to be insulting about it.
Now had you of said “while that physics support that idea, I doubt that it would have any significant impact” I might have actually agreed with you.

Well, you’re wrong. The oil wedge doesn’t give a shit. The connecting rod itself certainly does, but that not what you said.

 

[HBCraig]

A buddy of mine had a proclaimed 454 and he ran the piss oit of it. Over 400 hours. I say just maintain it

 

[Rajobigguy]

Well, you’re wrong. The oil wedge doesn’t give a shit. The connecting rod itself certainly does, but that not what you said.

Again, you are entitled to your opinion. It just doesn’t happen to be one that is shared by most of the notable engine builders that specialize in forced induction.
You are correct though that the rod gets the biggest benefit .

 

[Tank]

I'd think @02HoWaRd26 would have some input since he drug his boat back east to have Procharger installed at the factor on his boat.

Pro-charger has been in the marine game a loooooong time and I've never heard anyone have direct negative comments about them.

The way I understand it also, Pro-Chargers build boost slower than say a whipple or old school roots blower so they are easier on the drive(s), especially when planing and what not.

My personal opinion on this specific set up is low boost only adding 100hp is well worth leaving it in place and enjoying it.

 

[Dirty Daytona]

after the input on here, that’s what I’m going to do. I didn’t know shit about the pro charger so all the feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

[Rajobigguy]

after the input on here, that’s what I’m going to do. I didn’t know shit about the pro charger so all the feedback is greatly appreciated.

You’re going to be fine. Have fun and enjoy the new toy

 

[Dirty Daytona]

Thank you, I’m looking forward to it!!

 

[Jonas Grumby]

They really are the best setup for a boat. I had one on a 500efi for many many years. The fact that they come on late, is good news for your drive. I never had 1 issue with mine.

 

[mattyc]

I think Peter's only complaint with the procharger is that his bimini doesnt fit
@02HoWaRd26

 

[JL95]

Can't talk about prochargers without this video.

 

[Bpracing1127]

My dad had a procharged 540 years ago. Boost curve started about 4000 rpm. They build boost on the top end and not down low. It was intercooled from the lake water. Pro chargers like RPM. If you can spin a motor to 6200-6400 it will make some serious power.

 

[scottchbrite]

The problems with power adders are really person dependent. If you’re like me, you’ll find out that 5psi is boring and you’ll end up with a cog belt driven F1/F2. That’ll lead to discovering the weak points of the engine and drive. You’ll then be building both of those all because of RDP and 5psi. YMMV but pussies can’t be heroes
Run it!

 

[Bigbore500r]

So many feels in this thread

My 2 cents -

Run that sucker, but as with any boosted motor, I would verify the setup is dialed in and check your fuel pressure regularly. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the injectors at have them flowed to verify they are all within spec - one that is slightly clogged (it happens when they sit, especially over multiple seasons) and flowing less can roast that cylinder in a hurry with boost. Run 91 and a few bottles of octane booster for a little more headroom against detonation. It would be a good idea to install a fresh set of plugs, make a WOT run and then pull them to see how they look, and where the timing mark is on the ground strap - this can help determine if the motor is lean and how the timing looks. NGK plugs are the easiest to read, due to the color of materials they use on the plug.

The added HP from the procharger wont be what hurts the motor, its issues with fuel supply / tune that will hurt it.
Verify its tuned well and the fuel system is healthy, should live a long time at 5psi

 

[lakemadness]

Now that’s not very polite. I outlined the physics of what’s happening inside an engine that is boosted vs naturally aspirated. These are facts. Now if you believe that those facts don’t have any measurable effect on the rotating assembly then that is an opinion that you have a right to hold but no need to be insulting about it.
Now had you of said “while that physics support that idea, I doubt that it would have any significant impact” I might have actually agreed with you.

So, you're not confident in the physics you outlined? 10-4.

I do not see how a blower, even at a low 5psi, will increase the life of any engine. You're adding additional drag to spin it and putting more heat in a motor. Adding more stresses across the board. I'm not an engine builder or engineer, but I can at least say it does not make any sense to me.

 

[AZLineman]

So many feels in this thread

My 2 cents -

Run that sucker, but as with any boosted motor, I would verify the setup is dialed in and check your fuel pressure regularly. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the injectors at have them flowed to verify they are all within spec - one that is slightly clogged (it happens when they sit, especially over multiple seasons) and flowing less can roast that cylinder in a hurry with boost. Run 91 and a few bottles of octane booster for a little more headroom against detonation. It would be a good idea to install a fresh set of plugs, make a WOT run and then pull them to see how they look, and where the timing mark is on the ground strap - this can help determine if the motor is lean and how the timing looks. NGK plugs are the easiest to read, due to the color of materials they use on the plug.

The added HP from the procharger wont be what hurts the motor, its issues with fuel supply / tune that will hurt it.
Verify its tuned well and the fuel system is healthy, should live a long time at 5psi

This is a great point that I failed to mention as well on Merc/EFI The factory fuel cut rev limiter needs to be a eliminated, mefi tuned and major upgraded fuel system with boost reference regulator and go with an MSD ignition with spark cut rev limiter. The plug that worked best for me was an R5671A8 @ .035
Even with 5 pounds of boost on that application I would run about 20% 100 LL with pump 91 and a1/2 ounce per gallon of MMO. Your Pro charger intercoolers are fed by very small half-inch forced water feed so do yourself a favor and put a little plastic attwood or equalivent strainer on the inlet. That little line gets clogged easily with all the shit in the river/havasu water.

 

[DarkHorseRacing]

My dad had a procharged 540 years ago. Boost curve started about 4000 rpm. They build boost on the top end and not down low. It was intercooled from the lake water. Pro chargers like RPM. If you can spin a motor to 6200-6400 it will make some serious power.

Couldn’t you just run a smaller pulley and spin the pro charger faster at lower rpms to help produce boost lower down then?

 

[Bigbore500r]

Couldn’t you just run a smaller pulley and spin the pro charger faster at lower rpms to help produce boost lower down then?

It will increase the total amount of boost at max RPM. Boost rises in conjunction with RPM with Centrifugal blowers.
You have to set them to make the peak boost you want at max operating RPM, and then you only get what you can down low as it spins up.