Old school surge brake set-up

[78Southwind]

Does anyone have the old school surge brake set-up on your Spectra? If so, how do you disengage the brakes when you're backing up? I would think there would be a pin or something similar to lock them out.

 

[SPECTRALEN]

I have had surge brakes that had a heavy spring in front of the plunger so that backing up slowly the spring would keep the brakes from engaging. It was similar to a valve spring that you would have in your cylinder head.
This issue is just one of the few that pushed me into converting to electric. They work great:thumbsup.

 

[78Southwind]

I have had surge brakes that had a heavy spring in front of the plunger so that backing up slowly the spring would keep the brakes from engaging. It was similar to a valve spring that you would have in your cylinder head.
This issue is just one of the few that pushed me into converting to electric. They work great:thumbsup.

Something like this?

 

[SPECTRALEN]

I think so. Can't remember exactly.

 

[78Southwind]

Something like this?

View attachment 492325

The website says they are overload cushion springs used on all Model 6 Actuators.

It looks like these springs mount after the master cylinder mounting boss. I wounder if it will work on my set-up even though my set-up is somewhat backwards to this one.

19 7976 NUT - HEX 3/8 NC (2)
20 7820 WASHER 3/8 (2)
21 10274 SPRING (2)
ACTUATOR 6# MASTER CYL MTG BOLT SKU#:1027300 (2)

 

[BigSteve]

They make a brake in line electric solenoid to release the pressure activated from your reverse back lamps

Surge brakes are becoming illegal in many states and replaced with electro hydraulic unit activated from a electronic brake controller

 

[wsuwrhr]

Does anyone have the old school surge brake set-up on your Spectra? If so, how do you disengage the brakes when you're backing up? I would think there would be a pin or something similar to lock them out.

View attachment 492303

I have the exact setup on UCH and the answer is...you don't.

I have been told the shock could be worn out, but I haven't replaced it yet.

My solution was to pull out the pin at the master cylinder when I put the boat in the backyard.

Brian

 

[78Southwind]

They make a brake in line electric solenoid to release the pressure activated from your reverse back lamps

Surge brakes are becoming illegal in many states and replaced with electro hydraulic unit activated from a electronic brake controller

I have seen the solenoid but the way my master cylinder is positioned I don't think it would work. I sure hope they are not becoming illegal I am spending a bunch of money getting the brakes fixed.

 

[78Southwind]

I have the exact setup on UCH and the answer is...you don't.

I have been told the shock could be worn out, but I haven't replaced it yet.

My solution was to pull out the pin at the master cylinder when I put the boat in the backyard.

Brian

I am thinking the dampner shock plays a big part in being able to back the boat trailer up without the brakes locking up.

I just got my brakes installed but I haven't really tested them yet. However, I was surprised that when I backed the trailer into the garage the brakes didn't lockup like my old Hallett trailer use to. So either I got lucky and the damper shock is doing what it is supposed to do or my brakes need adjustment.

Do you have any pictures of the surge brake? I am curious how this emergency brake works on the top of the tongue of the trailer.

 

[djunkie]

I've got that solenoid setup on mine. Works great

 

[78Southwind]

I've got that solenoid setup on mine. Works great

The problem with mine is that there's a clearance issue.

 

[wsuwrhr]

240 Hallett told me to replace that first. I haven't found a replacement yet. I only went to the local trailer shop so far.

In my opinion it is a parking brake, the notches on the lever allow you to manually engage the brakes. Maybe in an emergency if the chain got pulled forward it would do something.

I'll snap a picture when I get home and post it tomorrow.

Brian

I am thinking the dampner shock plays a big part in being able to back the boat trailer up without the brakes locking up.

I just got my brakes installed but I haven't really tested them yet. However, I was surprised that when I backed the trailer into the garage the brakes didn't lockup like my old Hallett trailer use to. So either I got lucky and the damper shock is doing what it is supposed to do or my brakes need adjustment.

Do you have any pictures of the surge brake? I am curious how this emergency brake works on the top of the tongue of the trailer.

 

[mjc]

I am thinking the dampner shock plays a big part in being able to back the boat trailer up without the brakes locking up.

I just got my brakes installed but I haven't really tested them yet. However, I was surprised that when I backed the trailer into the garage the brakes didn't lockup like my old Hallett trailer use to. So either I got lucky and the damper shock is doing what it is supposed to do or my brakes need adjustment.

Do you have any pictures of the surge brake? I am curious how this emergency brake works on the top of the tongue of the trailer.

Do you still have drums? Single piston drums have very little stopping ability in reverse.

 

[78Southwind]

Do you still have drums? Single piston drums have very little stopping ability in reverse.

Yes.

 

[78Southwind]

240 Hallett told me to replace that first. I haven't found a replacement yet. I only went to the local trailer shop so far.

In my opinion it is a parking brake, the notches on the lever allow you to manually engage the brakes. Maybe in an emergency if the chain got pulled forward it would do something.

I'll snap a picture when I get home and post it tomorrow.

Brian

I figured a wire ran from the lever threw the eye bolt to the hitch.

 

[wsuwrhr]

I figured a wire ran from the lever threw the eye bolt to the hitch.

Essentially yes.

Mine has no eye bolt. Just a small gauge chain connected to the lever that I clip on to the tow hitch. I am going to make that a cable.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Do you still have drums? Single piston drums have very little stopping ability in reverse.

I don't know about that. I am not able to back UCH into the backyard if the ground is wet. Stops my half ton dead, digging holes with the wheels.

 

[78Southwind]

Essentially yes.

Mine has no eye bolt. Just a small gauge chain connected to the lever that I clip on to the tow hitch. I am going to make that a cable.

Here's the Break Away Lever w/Pin

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/Replacement-Breakaway-Lever-with-Pin-for-Titan-Model-6-Actuators-4594100/



Here's the Titan/Dico Replacement Damper Shock

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/Damper-Shock-for-Titan-Dico-Model-10-actuator-1242600/

 

[cmayer]

I've been looking all over for that shock! My spectra trailer has that same setup, but the entire brake system is shot and I've debated fixing it all, or retrofitting a newer system / tongue

 

[78Southwind]

I've been looking all over for that shock! My spectra trailer has that same setup, but the entire brake system is shot and I've debated fixing it all, or retrofitting a newer system / tongue

That kit for $496 or $504 looks like a good deal if you want to good disk conversion.

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/trailer-buddy-parts-complete-kits/

 

[78Southwind]

TESTING TITAN SURGE BRAKE SYSTEMS

1. Hydraulic surge actuator systems provide automatic and smooth trailer braking without special application by the
tow vehicle driver. While this is extremely convenient it can sometimes be difficult to determine if the surge setup
is functioning properly. The following steps provide a quick field-test to confirm that the trailer brake system is
operational.

2. Move the trailer to flat, level ground, pulling FORWARD several feet before parking. This forward motion will
ensure trailers equipped with free-backing brakes are in their normal operating mode. Disconnect the trailer from
the tow vehicle and jack the trailer's tongue until it is horizontal.

3. Hook the trailer's safety chains (NOT the actuator's break-away
cable/chain) together to form a loop, which is centered below the
actuator's coupler as shown in Figure 1.

4. Place a sturdy board, such as a 2 inch by 4 inch piece of lumber,
into the chain loop below the coupler. The board should be 4 feet
or longer so it will extend several feet above the actuator. Keep
the end of the board a few inches off the ground, and position it
to press against the front end of the actuator's coupler.
5. Stand in front of the trailer and face the rear. Apply force to the
top end of the board to use it as a lever. Press back towards the
rear of the trailer. The board will begin moving the coupler case
(inner slide) into the actuator?s outer housing.

TESTING TITAN SURGE BRAKE SYSTEMS (cont.)
6. Keep pressing the top of the board to stroke the actuator and its internal master cylinder. If the trailer brake
system is operational, the brakes will apply and keep the trailer from rolling away from you. Properly adjusted uniservo
or duo-servo type brakes will prevent you from moving the trailer back more than a few inches. Freebacking
type brakes will initially provide rolling resistance, but continued force on the board will switch them into
free-backing mode, and you?ll be able to move the trailer backwards.

7. If you have uni-servo or duo-servo brakes, and stroking the actuator (as described previously) causes the trailer
to roll away from you freely or with only minimal resistance, the brakes are NOT applying properly. If you have
free-backing brakes, and stroking the actuator (as described previously) causes the trailer to roll away without
initial resistance, the brakes are NOT applying properly. The brake system MUST be evaluated to determine the
cause of the problem, and corrective action MUST be taken before the trailer is used.