Motor Issues

[crzy2bealive]

This is my friends boat. Started running rough, having a hard time starting, now this.

Checked the dip stick and the oil is gone lol.

Bad way to start a River season.

351 Wenzler Ford

 

[monkeyswrench]

Running rough and hard starting could be minor things....but oil flooding the bilge is a big uh-oh. Is that coming from the crank seal? If the oil pump broke the casting, it could pump all oil towards the timing cover I guess. It would also possibly mess with the timing as they are on a common axis driven by the cam. May not be an expensive fix yet, but a lot of work to find out what needs doing.

 

[crzy2bealive]

Running rough and hard starting could be minor things....but oil flooding the bilge is a big uh-oh. Is that coming from the crank seal? If the oil pump broke the casting, it could pump all oil towards the timing cover I guess. It would also possibly mess with the timing as they are on a common axis driven by the cam. May not be an expensive fix yet, but a lot of work to find out what needs doing.

I believe it’s coming from the crank seal it was at night, so I’m gonna try again during the day.

 

[crzy2bealive]

Running rough and hard starting could be minor things....but oil flooding the bilge is a big uh-oh. Is that coming from the crank seal? If the oil pump broke the casting, it could pump all oil towards the timing cover I guess. It would also possibly mess with the timing as they are on a common axis driven by the cam. May not be an expensive fix yet, but a lot of work to find out what needs doing.

Replacing the crank /front seal I can do.......

But going back to the oil pump is there a way to check its working properly without pulling the pan off? Or what are some less invasive diagnostics checks I could do.

 

[Bigbore500r]

Replacing the crank /front seal I can do.......

But going back to the oil pump is there a way to check its working properly without pulling the pan off? Or what are some less invasive diagnostics checks I could do.

Add oil - start it, check oil pressure. If it has pressure (and it seems normal for what the motor usually puts out) - pump is working.
If it doesn't.....motor has to come out. Usually the oil pump isn't the culprit, it's simply an accomplice suffering collateral damage from engine components failing and sending metal thru the oil system.

You can also remove the oil filter and cut it open with a filter cutter (carefully, must use a filter cutter - don't cut it with a grinder or you will just send metal shavings into the filter and ruin this test....) - pull out the media and open it up, look for metal / bearing material. If it has metal between the pleats - motor is losing a bearing or has something else coming apart.

Hard to tell from the video, but is the motor making abnormal knocking or clacking?

 

[monkeyswrench]

Replacing the crank /front seal I can do.......

But going back to the oil pump is there a way to check its working properly without pulling the pan off? Or what are some less invasive diagnostics checks I could do.

Does it have an oil pressure gauge on the boat? If not, can pull a tap and thread a gauge in. Usually the lifters will be clacking something fierce though if there isn't any oil up top. If the oil is pouring out of the crank seal, something isn't right, and I can't think of an oil galley on the right side of the block. Normally Fords have an oil sender and switch like this sticking out the side.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=125800&stc=1&d=1444774102

 

[crzy2bealive]

Add oil - start it, check oil pressure. If it has pressure (and it seems normal for what the motor usually puts out) - pump is working.
If it doesn't.....motor has to come out. Usually the oil pump isn't the culprit, it's simply an accomplice suffering collateral damage from engine components failing and sending metal thru the oil system.

You can also remove the oil filter and cut it open with a filter cutter (carefully, must use a filter cutter - don't cut it with a grinder or you will just send metal shavings into the filter and ruin this test....) - pull out the media and open it up, look for metal / bearing material. If it has metal between the pleats - motor is losing a bearing or has something else coming apart.

Hard to tell from the video, but is the motor making abnormal knocking or clacking?

Not sure where the sound might be coming from. Will check tonight. Can’t tell if that was exhaust noise.

 

[crzy2bealive]

Ok I have oil pressure…….after adding oil.

Definitely needs a new front crank seal.

The motor is acting like it's not running on all cylinders.

I have spark to all plugs…

Dark/Gray smoke coming out of the exhaust…smells like fuel.

No weird sounds coming from under the valve covers.

 

[4Waters]

Ok I have oil pressure…….after adding oil.

Definitely needs a new front crank seal.

The motor is acting like it's not running on all cylinders.

I have spark to all plugs…

Dark/Gray smoke coming out of the exhaust…smells like fuel.

No weird sounds coming from under the valve covers.

Sounds like carb issue

 

[Your ad here]

Sounds like carb issue

I think its related to the distributor. Location to be more specific... Joking aside it sounds like bad fuel. Like water in the fuel.

 

[4Waters]

I think its related to the distributor. Location to be more specific... Joking aside it sounds like bad fuel. Like water in the fuel.

Could be, maybe both

 

[t-bag]

A compression test and a leak down will tell you a lot.

 

[crzy2bealive]

A compression test and a leak down will tell you a lot.

Yup doing that next

 

[crzy2bealive]

Compression numbers all check out….145/150

So going to proceed with changing the front crankcase seal.

I got to pulling the harmonic balance off and I’m having trouble pulling that off…..it was midnight so I needed sleep and fresh start.

I also think I narrowed it down to a bad mechanical fuel pump so I’m going to change that out.

 

[RIVERBORN]

Get a fuel gauge in line for the carb. Helps diagnose/eliminate problems.
One quick glance and u know if ur getting correct fuel to carb.

 

[RIVERBORN]

Oh…. Also. Be really careful if you’re getting a bunch of fuel in bilge. Had a childhood friend burn up from working on boat in garage that sparked off because of vapors in bilge.

 

[crzy2bealive]

Ok got it figured out!!

Fuel pump failed and it was pumping a bunch of fuel into the block.

We replaced that and the front crank case seal.

New plugs, oil, oil filter, impeller.

Need to clean up the bilge from all the leaking fuel and oil.

Need to fix some alternator wiring because we accidentally messed that up

I think the carb needs to be adjusted as it smells a little rich, but I don’t know how to do that.

It has a Holley brawler. I think we’ll have a shop do it.

 

[mash on it]

Which Brawler?
Appears the factory jets are a bit large for a mild 351.

For what it's worth, on a cammed and warmed over 350 chebby (ZZ4), & 750 4160 Holley, I run 68 jets.
Brawler 750 have 72s. The 650s have 70s.

Dan'l

 

[crzy2bealive]

So we went for a little test and tune on Friday night.

Boat idles amazing, but it literally dies once you hit 2K RPM.

We were successful enough to anticipate it stalling out/dying and we just gassed it and pushed passed it....made it to about 3200 RPM and then it would die again.

We ended up just idling around for another 40 mins and drank....

 

[rivermobster]

So we went for a little test and tune on Friday night.

Boat idles amazing, but it literally dies once you hit 2K RPM.

We were successful enough to anticipate it stalling out/dying and we just gassed it and pushed passed it....made it to about 3200 RPM and then it would die again.

We ended up just idling around for another 40 mins and drank....

What's that saying?

A bad day on the water, is better than a good day at work?