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Max Machine Worx Drive Education

RiverDave

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As I elated to last week, we are going to be doing some outdrive education with a max Machine Worx. This will be the most in depth series on Bravos that has ever been done. Even if you don’t know anything about outdrives at the end you will come away with an understanding of how they work, why they break, and how to keep them living.

If you guys have any questions please leave them in the thread and they will he answered in next weeks videos and posted in the same thread.

Episode 1

Episode 2

Episode 3

Episode 4
 
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AEA

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Very good job! Looking forward to the next video.
 

RiverDave

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This is my attempt to do something out of the box. In today's quick world of social media people aren't really learning anything about boats or the things that make them work. If you ask 100 different people about Drives, they will all recommend a shop more based on the relationship they have with the shop, or their reputation (sometimes deserved, sometimes not?).

In these videos the objective it to actually learn how these drives work and go over every part from the U-joints to the prop shaft and show what the weak links are, and how Max Machine worx is fixing them. In that they are also putting up the more popular aftermarket parts side by side to show some of the pro's and cons of each. For political purposes obviously he isn't going to name who's parts or what, nobody wants to talk down on another company or their products.. Again the point of it is just sheer education, and learning the problems that are happening, and what their solutions to them would be.

Hopefully at the end of this, everybody will understand a Bravo inside and out (although they won't dive into how to set one up), and at least know what kind of parts you can use for your setup. The MMW parts are some of the strongest in the industry.. That said I don't need that built of a drive for either one of my boats, so I might find stock acceptable or XYZ part acceptable for my application.

For those blowing drives left and right though, this is going to be invaluable.. As you will see what fails, how to prevent it from failing, and what your options are that are out there.

RD
 

Racey

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Great content Dave, really cool stuff! :cool:
 

Singleton

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Part of RD’s request was to list questions for the next episode, so.
1 - if you have a stock Bravo X, what would be the first upgrade MMW would recommend (excluding a drive shower).
 

Bucketlist

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Dave, great series topic. I love it. Cant wait for Part 2. The visual with explanations of design /part differences helps me understand various discussions i have had with my particular outdrive setup.
 

farmo83

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I second Singleton's question.

What drive upgrades are the best bang for your buck in MMW opinion.


I.E. I have a stock drive.


First I should upgrade X

Second I should upgrade Y

Third I should upgrade Z

Etc.


Great info.
 

Headless hula

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^^^^^^

This. And at what ballpark horsepower levels.
 

J.P.

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Learned a lot on the components of the standard Bravo verses the Bravo XR. Seems the standard Bravo upper case has more metal where you need it.
 

boatnam2

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Wear on drive with 4 blade versus 5 blade?

Does babying out of the hole really save time on your drive?

Oil lubrication change out time on 800 HP 10hr 15hr?

Best drive oil?
 

adam909

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Good stuff!!! Love these types of videos. Need more!!
 

Bigbore500r

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Question for MMW - What weight / HP is a full-tilt modded MMW bravo good for?
 

RiverDave

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Question for MMW - What weight / HP is a full-tilt modded MMW bravo good for?

I can answer that in the fact that nobody is going to give you specifics on that. A lot of that is going to depend on the setup of the boat (X-dimension), prop (diameter / slip / blades), and then the most important part the guy on the sticks.

There are drives out there that are living with 1400 HP being put through them.. There's drives out there that are grenading with half of that.

If you are in a big heavy Vee Bottom and launch the boat and don't get off the sticks and the engine RPM's come up, then the drives get deep into the water on landing it goes boom.. It's a very violent thing to subject a driveline too when it comes under crazy shock loading like that. However you can get a guy driving right next to the guy with the same boat and he's a master on the sticks and boat goes up in the air and he's off the throttles, and as the props are re-entering the water he puts the sticks right back to where they were it can be done with almost no shockloading, and everything survives no problem.

See what I'm saying?

RD
 

Bigbore500r

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I can answer that in the fact that nobody is going to give you specifics on that. A lot of that is going to depend on the setup of the boat (X-dimension), prop (diameter / slip / blades), and then the most important part the guy on the sticks.

There are drives out there that are living with 1400 HP being put through them.. There's drives out there that are grenading with half of that.

If you are in a big heavy Vee Bottom and launch the boat and don't get off the sticks and the engine RPM's come up, then the drives get deep into the water on landing it goes boom.. It's a very violent thing to subject a driveline too when it comes under crazy shock loading like that. However you can get a guy driving right next to the guy with the same boat and he's a master on the sticks and boat goes up in the air and he's off the throttles, and as the props are re-entering the water he puts the sticks right back to where they were it can be done with almost no shockloading, and everything survives no problem.

See what I'm saying?

RD

Makes sense
 

Ouderkirk

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As I elated to last week, we are going to be doing some outdrive education with a max Machine Worx. This will be the most in depth series on Bravos that has ever been done. Even if you don’t know anything about outdrives at the end you will come away with AJ understanding of how they work, why they break, and how to keep them living.

If you guys have any questions please leave them in the thread and they will he answered in next weeks videos and posted in the same thread.


Can you cover the shifting mechanism in detail. Specifically what makes the Bravo shift become stiff. Thanks.
 

Yellowboat

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I would love too see what he would like too do with say a $1000 budget for parts.
 

Enen

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This is my attempt to do something out of the box. In today's quick world of social media people aren't really learning anything about boats or the things that make them work. If you ask 100 different people about Drives, they will all recommend a shop more based on the relationship they have with the shop, or their reputation (sometimes deserved, sometimes not?).

In these videos the objective it to actually learn how these drives work and go over every part from the U-joints to the prop shaft and show what the weak links are, and how Max Machine worx is fixing them. In that they are also putting up the more popular aftermarket parts side by side to show some of the pro's and cons of each. For political purposes obviously he isn't going to name who's parts or what, nobody wants to talk down on another company or their products.. Again the point of it is just sheer education, and learning the problems that are happening, and what their solutions to them would be.

Hopefully at the end of this, everybody will understand a Bravo inside and out (although they won't dive into how to set one up), and at least know what kind of parts you can use for your setup. The MMW parts are some of the strongest in the industry.. That said I don't need that built of a drive for either one of my boats, so I might find stock acceptable or XYZ part acceptable for my application.

For those blowing drives left and right though, this is going to be invaluable.. As you will see what fails, how to prevent it from failing, and what your options are that are out there.

RD

I'd be interested to hear their opinion of the Drive Guardian.
 

Boat 405

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Do all these mods make the gears last longer ?
From what I understand, yes. Gears are still the weak part but when you have items in the case flexing and moving the gears don't mesh as they should causing gears to fail prematurely.

It's tough to justify the cost of a really nice XR drive from MMW in cost compared to a new SCX drive. Yes you have to buy a new IMCO or Merc HP gimbal, and a new IMCO helmet for it to all work which will add $2000 to the price of converting to an SCX. I'm also not sure of the rebuild cost of a SCX drive vs a built MMW drive. These are all things that I wonder.
 

WhatExit?

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Great content Dave. It's a key difference between this and the other sites. Keep up the great work!
 

Mach80

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I like it. Keep them coming. Thanks Dave.
 

hawgty55

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I blew my drive last season. Took it apart got every bearing and race number and rebuilt the whole Drive with all brand new American made parts that were in the drive originally. It was a process but I got it done. We'll see how long it lasts.
 

ToMorrow44

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Great info to see everything side by side and where the weak points are! Thanks RD
 

Hallettsled

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Great info, I can't wait for the next installment!

Thanks for putting this together.
 

Mcchevy69ss

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As I elated to last week, we are going to be doing some outdrive education with a max Machine Worx. This will be the most in depth series on Bravos that has ever been done. Even if you don’t know anything about outdrives at the end you will come away with AJ understanding of how they work, why they break, and how to keep them living.

If you guys have any questions please leave them in the thread and they will he answered in next weeks videos and posted in the same thread.

Question- I have an Imco SCX with a Teague platinum lower spinning a 5 blade Maximus on a F26 with a 1000+ Boostpower motor. Does MMW offer a better/stronger lower unit to use with this combination? If so, what makes the MMW lower a better choice? It seems that putting a SCX lower is not recommended because of handling concerns. Also what is the best drive oil to use with this combo?

RD- thanks for putting this together... really cool.
 

Ballyhoo

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I stopped by MMW last week after watching the intro video posted here. They took the time to show me around, check out my current drive/boat setup and gave me a number of options. It was nice to see that they didn't try to sell me on the toughest drive they make. They were also in favor of a rebuild of my existing drive with their parts as opposed to buying a whole new drive. Seemed like good folks and I will likely give them a shot when its time.
 

boatnam2

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Question- I have an Imco SCX with a Teague platinum lower spinning a 5 blade Maximus on a F26 with a 1000+ Boostpower motor. Does MMW offer a better/stronger lower unit to use with this combination? If so, what makes the MMW lower a better choice? It seems that putting a SCX lower is not recommended because of handling concerns. Also what is the best drive oil to use with this combo?

RD- thanks for putting this together... really cool.
You know anyone needing a maximus 28p 5 blade i got one i don't need anymore.
 

Headless hula

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I blew my drive last season. Took it apart got every bearing and race number and rebuilt the whole Drive with all brand new American made parts that were in the drive originally. It was a process but I got it done. We'll see how long it lasts.
What did have $$$ wise in the tools to do it?
 

Headless hula

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You know anyone needing a maximus 28p 5 blade i got one i don't need anymore.
Wish the hula had the wheaties to turn that wheel. Tried a 26, and no dice. Lugged the crap out of it.. .
 

KAP

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Well the guys at MMX really know drives. What is exciting is the video you posted Dave about the 400R prop shaft. Word is Mercury is making one similar. Great video and content well done.

It is so nice to see such A+ content no a boating forum. As we all know a good drama thread would garner more attention but this video was outstanding.

Fastest speeds I ever ran in my Howard Sportdeck was with a MMX drive.

Thanks for the video Dave.
 

Slats

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Great video. Very informative.
What kind of special tools do you need to overhaul a drive? Are we talking bearing pullers and a press or something else.
 

Hammer

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Great video and very informative.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

J DUNN

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Wear on drive with 4 blade versus 5 blade?

Does babying out of the hole really save time on your drive?

Oil lubrication change out time on 800 HP 10hr 15hr?

Best drive oil?

I'm not a professional in this field but from my experience I would answer your questions with a couple questions.

"Wear on drive with 4 blade versus 5 blade?" If you drove a manual trans car and you HAD to stay in one gear could you see how 4th might be a better all around choice than 5th?

"Does babying out of the hole really save time on your drive?" Does your transmission in your car last longer if you don't mash on the accelerator from a dead stop?

I think these are pretty good comparisons to help put it into perspective. I've unfortunately done a lot of Bravo research on my TT Hallett 240 over the last 2 years and this is where I draw this perspective from. Also, I run 2 props, a 4 blade and a 5 blade. Sure 5 blade is faster at a lot of rpm ranges but puts way more torque on the drive.

Just my 2 cents.
 

boatnam2

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All good points J DUNN thanks, I guess i should asked if you own a high HP Cat, is it better to gas it a little more to get it to roll over quickly( what i do) versus lugging it for a long ways to get it to roll over which I'm guessing is a pretty good torque strain for a lot longer time. I personally don't think there is a huge amount of difference in wear when using a 4 versus a 5 but I'm not a expert and its just a guess. I run both props and that $6600 pop to repair it hurts a little so I'm all ears when it comes to drive advice.
 
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RiverDave

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Just finished filming episode two and Q&A as well as a little featured product should be online in a couple hours
 

RiverDave

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Episode 2! The Vertical Shaft / Clutch Shaft. OEM, Aftermarket & Max Machine Worx!

In the next episode things are going to get very technical when we get into the clutch and gear sets etc. it’s important to go back and review these first two videos to get a good foundation for Episode 3

 
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