Li Time Lithium Batter Sale Now

[DoughBallin14]

To continue off the battle born battery sale that was posted about a week ago and a coupe gents asking about lithium batteries in the rv section.

Looks like Li Time is doing a amazon prime day deal on multiple battery sizes looks like good deals and i think @ka0tyk and a few others have done some testing with these and seems to suggest they are a good value

https://www.litime.com/pages/prime-day-sale

 

[DarkJuJu]

I have run 3 100ah battery's in my 5th wheel for over a year now, they replaced 4 100ah deep cell, huge improvement in run time since you can run these until they are dead. this guy breaks down a ton of these batteries , his channel is great

 

[EmpirE231]

Looking at the site now… what difference does the BMS make? I see some with 100A BMS and some with 200ABMS? But the same AH?

Can anyone explain why you’d need the bigger BMS? I’m contemplating switching and need around 5-600 AH

 

[Bpracing1127]

Looking at the site now… what difference does the BMS make? I see some with 100A BMS and some with 200ABMS? But the same AH?

Can anyone explain why you’d need the bigger BMS? I’m contemplating switching and need around 5-600 AH

Yes interested in this too

 

[Shady]

The website linked below has the below explanation. Basically the BMS controls much power can go in to or out ferom the battery.

LiFePO4 BMS: What is it, How to Choose?

If you are thinking of building your own LiFePO4 battery pack, you need to make sure you have the basics down before choosing a BMS.

www.bluettipower.com

Here's an example, let's say you wish to build a solar system with a 3000W inverter to power loads of up to 2500W. In addition, you’re thinking about getting a 100A BMS to connect to your 12V LiFePO4 battery pack for this system.

At first glance do you think this will work?

That's right, it won't.

That's because: Power (W) = 12V x 100A = 1200W

With this sort of system, you won't be able to power any loads reaching over 1200 watts.

However, if you use a 250A BMS, your maximum power output of your system becomes 3000W: Power (W) = 12V x 250A = 3000W

Now you have a compatible BMS size to your 3000W system.

 

[EmpirE231]

The website linked below has the below explanation. Basically the BMS controls much power can go in to or out ferom the battery.

LiFePO4 BMS: What is it, How to Choose?

If you are thinking of building your own LiFePO4 battery pack, you need to make sure you have the basics down before choosing a BMS.

www.bluettipower.com

Here's an example, let's say you wish to build a solar system with a 3000W inverter to power loads of up to 2500W. In addition, you’re thinking about getting a 100A BMS to connect to your 12V LiFePO4 battery pack for this system.

At first glance do you think this will work?

That's right, it won't.

That's because: Power (W) = 12V x 100A = 1200W

With this sort of system, you won't be able to power any loads reaching over 1200 watts.

However, if you use a 250A BMS, your maximum power output of your system becomes 3000W: Power (W) = 12V x 250A = 3000W

Now you have a compatible BMS size to your 3000W system.

But now if you have say 4 of those batteries, with 100A BMS… does that give you 4800W of output?

 

[DaveTic]

But now if you have say 4 of those batteries, with 100A BMS… does that give you 4800W of output?

Yes it will you 400A/4800watt@12v. My brother just bought the 100A mini Li Time’s very compact and do the same work as the standard 100A.

 

[Deckin Around]

BMS protects the battery from freezing temps among other things. I just converted my golf cart to a 48v 100ah lithium battery and thats what I learned

 

[Shady]

But now if you have say 4 of those batteries, with 100A BMS… does that give you 4800W of output?

I think so. I had a single 200AH 100AMP BMS battery in my trailer, it would overload the bms running

But now if you have say 4 of those batteries, with 100A BMS… does that give you 4800W of output?

Yeah, I had a single 200AH battery with 100AMP BMS in my trailer and the electric kettle and toaster runnig at the same time would overload the BMS and shut the battery down. I added a second identical battery and have had no issues the last year and a half running the same two appliances.

 

[OLDRAAT]

EG4 out of Texas.

 

[mesquito_creek]

The website linked below has the below explanation. Basically the BMS controls much power can go in to or out ferom the battery.

LiFePO4 BMS: What is it, How to Choose?

If you are thinking of building your own LiFePO4 battery pack, you need to make sure you have the basics down before choosing a BMS.

www.bluettipower.com

Here's an example, let's say you wish to build a solar system with a 3000W inverter to power loads of up to 2500W. In addition, you’re thinking about getting a 100A BMS to connect to your 12V LiFePO4 battery pack for this system.

At first glance do you think this will work?

That's right, it won't.

That's because: Power (W) = 12V x 100A = 1200W

With this sort of system, you won't be able to power any loads reaching over 1200 watts.

However, if you use a 250A BMS, your maximum power output of your system becomes 3000W: Power (W) = 12V x 250A = 3000W

Now you have a compatible BMS size to your 3000W system.

Even if you did deliver 3000w at 250a from a 100ah battery… the party is only going to last 24 minutes in perfect conditions.

 

[mesquito_creek]

@Shady

In your example you are correct but you could deliver 250 amps from a li-time 100a BMS for 5 seconds if you are lucky!

BMS​

BMS Board: 100A

Max. Continuous Charge/Discharge Current: 100A

Max. Discharge Current 5 Seconds: 280A

Max. Continuous Load Power: 1280W

Internal Impedance: ≤40mΩ

 

[Shady]

Even if you did deliver 3000w at 250a from a 100ah battery… the party is only going to last 24 minutes in perfect conditions.

Totally true. I also have 400 watts of solar and was able to camp, for three nights and never ran my generator a couple weekends ago. We were in Morro Bay, so no need for A/C.

 

[mesquito_creek]

I have a pair of these ampertime/li-time batteries wired as a separate dedicated circuit in my cabin cruiser. Runs two small fridges and a countertop ice maker. A few other miscellaneous devices also. Going on about 3 years without any issues.

 

[DarkJuJu]

BMS is one of the most important parts of these battery's aside from the lithium cells themselves. I run everything in my trailer including my heater in the winter, my residential fridge, fans, starlink, satellite and if they are at a full charge before sun down the last into the morning. If I had more than (2) 190w panels I wouldn't even need to start my generator in the am to charge them back up. and I wouldn't buy the more expensive "heater" versions if your mainly in the Southwest and the battery's are going to be inside a trailer, imo, unles your going to be in sub zero temps often

 

[Bigbore500r]

Best bang for the buck is to order a few of the basic 100AH units and chain them together, just make sure to mount them somewhere that isn't exposed to temps below or above their operating temperature. You'll get the combined discharge power of all the batteries (2 would be 200 amps) and price is less than running the more expensive 200AH / 200 amp BMS model. Plus - if one of them takes a crap, you can disconnect and still have the other to use.

 

[Motoxxxloak]

Their 48v/51.2v golf cart batter is $999, down from 1,799. Seems like a good deal. The navitas motor I am ordering is 5kw. Using the above formula, not sure one battery
will do the trick? Two batteries brings it to 96v and the controller can only support up to 72, but then I need to start changing things out if I go to 72v. Still trying to learn this battery stuff.

Power (W) = 51.2V x 60A = 3,072W
Power (W) = 48V x 60A = 2,880W

 

[EmpirE231]

Would you lithium pros say these are similar in quality to Renogy? I was originally looking at renogy for my RV.

 

[mesquito_creek]

Would you lithium pros say these are similar in quality to Renogy? I was originally looking at renogy for my RV.

Personally,... You are paying for the Renogy customer service, maybe some slightly better components and US based company name. All the cells are made in china. If something goes bad with a Renogy it will be alot easier to deal with. Li-Time is going to be a little bit more of a challenge, although I have read pretty good review on their customer service.

 

[mesquito_creek]

Their 48v/51.2v golf cart batter is $999, down from 1,799. Seems like a good deal. The navitas motor I am ordering is 5kw. Using the above formula, not sure one battery
will do the trick? Two batteries brings it to 96v and the controller can only support up to 72, but then I need to start changing things out if I go to 72v. Still trying to learn this battery stuff.

Power (W) = 51.2V x 60A = 3,072W
Power (W) = 48V x 60A = 2,880W

I think something is off on your golf cart specification. There is a nominal operation voltage on your cart. It probably doesn't go "up to 72v" in terms of what the cart voltage specification is. What is the current battery voltage set up in the cart?

In terms of how MUCH battery storage you need, that will be in Amp Hours. You take you working voltage ie 48v and add up the Amp Hours of battery in the battery bank to figure out how long/far you can go.

btw: if you actually have a 72v cart then you may want to get a professional to work on it. That will totally kill you if you f up. 50v is max you want to deal with as an ameratur builder. That means a 48v set up max (even if the top charging voltage is 58v)

 

[ka0tyk]

Would you lithium pros say these are similar in quality to Renogy? I was originally looking at renogy for my RV.

Renogy is garbage. Their BMS doesnt even allow for wiring in series. I had purchased 8 12v 100ah's and ended up selling them as I need 24v. They're like one of the only batteries that dont allow it and its simply because of a junk low quality bms.

 

[mesquito_creek]

Renogy is garbage. Their BMS doesnt even allow for wiring in series. I had purchased 8 12v 100ah's and ended up selling them as I need 24v. They're like one of the only batteries that dont allow it and its simply because of a junk low quality bms.

I have never owned Renogy and I am too cheap to pay the premium for them,... but they have changed that in the current battery line up for some of their batteries. And someone could also just by 24v batteries and run them in parallel to get around having to use 12v in a 24v system.

As Per the Renogy website:
Connect in Series
Now, you can wire 12V 200Ah Core Series Batteries in series to build a 24V, 36V, or even 48V system in your RV.

 

[RiverCruiser]

I currently have 4- 6 volt batteries in my toy hauler. If I was going to replace them with the Li Time ones would I still want 4 batteries?

 

[EmpirE231]

Personally,... You are paying for the Renogy customer service, maybe some slightly better components and US based company name. All the cells are made in china. If something goes bad with a Renogy it will be alot easier to deal with. Li-Time is going to be a little bit more of a challenge, although I have read pretty good review on their customer service.

got it... what about charge rate? from researching back in the day... you could feed battle borns more amps of charging current than you could to Renogy batteries?

any idea what these litimes can handle? I have two magnum inverters / chargers that can each pump out 100A of charging current.... so 200A together at full power, which is nice if the batteries can handle it, because you get them charged up quicker.... am I correct in this thinking, or am I missing something?

currently no solar on my RV

 

[mesquito_creek]

got it... what about charge rate? from researching back in the day... you could feed battle borns more amps of charging current than you could to Renogy batteries?

any idea what these litimes can handle? I have two magnum inverters / chargers that can each pump out 100A of charging current.... so 200A together at full power, which is nice if the batteries can handle it, because you get them charged up quicker.... am I correct in this thinking, or am I missing something?

currently no solar on my RV

Max. Continuous Charge/Discharge Current: 100A
Same as battleborn

So if you have 2 LiTimes wired in parallel you could charge at 200A, effectively putting you at 100a per battery. But I wouldn’t do it, too close to the max input rating… I would want a third battery in the bank to lower that to about 66 amps per battery.

 

[mesquito_creek]

I currently have 4- 6 volt batteries in my toy hauler. If I was going to replace them with the Li Time ones would I still want 4 batteries?

We need more info… how are they wired? Is it a 6v/12v or 24v system?

 

[mesquito_creek]

I like to always ask: What problem are you trying to solve?

Lithium is cool and the price is getting close to AGM…. Is not an answer!!!

I run out of power, I don’t want to use a generator, I am replacing lead/agm too often etc… etc.. Those are valid problems

 

[Waterjunky]

This is a good conversation. I am looking at making the change in the next year or so on my RV. Basically I will be adding whatever I have room for in my battery compartment. I currently have 4 G31's but have lots of vertical room to grow.

 

[RiverCruiser]

We need more info… how are they wired? Is it a 6v/12v or 24v system?

12v system. 2- 160 watt solar panels.

 

[EmpirE231]

I like to always ask: What problem are you trying to solve?

Lithium is cool and the price is getting close to AGM…. Is not an answer!!!

I run out of power, I don’t want to use a generator, I am replacing lead/agm too often etc… etc.. Those are valid problems

I'll go!

My problem is that my AGM batteries are pretty much toast.

I don't want to keep replacing batteries every 3-5 years if I can go 5-10 years for close to the same cost

I also like the idea of being able to draw down 100% of available AH rather than 50%

I already have space for them, so if I can minimize generator run time (we dry camp 90% of the time) and increase available juice... why not?

 

[mesquito_creek]

I'll go!

My problem is that my AGM batteries are pretty much toast.

I don't want to keep replacing batteries every 3-5 years if I can go 5-10 years for close to the same cost

I also like the idea of being able to draw down 100% of available AH rather than 50%

I already have space for them, so if I can minimize generator run time (we dry camp 90% of the time) and increase available juice... why not?


View attachment 1285745

It looks like you have 8 six volts batteries wired 2S4P (two series / 4 parallel)

That is 5,376 useable watt hours of storage.
That is 4.5 LiTime 12v/100ah battery equivalent.

So if you could get 8 LiTimes in there you would have 9600 watt hours of storage. What’s that? About a 44% increase over what you have today…

And ya! Those dc224-6 batteries are expensive! Could roughly cut you cost in have or more and get the 44 increase if the LiTimes last 2x longer.

 

[Motoxxxloak]

I think something is off on your golf cart specification. There is a nominal operation voltage on your cart. It probably doesn't go "up to 72v" in terms of what the cart voltage specification is. What is the current battery voltage set up in the cart?

In terms of how MUCH battery storage you need, that will be in Amp Hours. You take you working voltage ie 48v and add up the Amp Hours of battery in the battery bank to figure out how long/far you can go.

btw: if you actually have a 72v cart then you may want to get a professional to work on it. That will totally kill you if you f up. 50v is max you want to deal with as an ameratur builder. That means a 48v set up max (even if the top charging voltage is 58v)

My cart currently is a 36v cart (36v motor and controller). Motor and controller are being upgraded to a 48v. The motor and controller are both capable of handling up to 72v but, I will not go up that high....I will build it to be a 48v. I am on forum after forum and the lingo between AGM and lead acid and lithium is mind boggling.

 

[mesquito_creek]

I currently have 4- 6 volt batteries in my toy hauler. If I was going to replace them with the Li Time ones would I still want 4 batteries?

You have 2700 watt hours right now. Each LiTime is 1200 watt hours so 2 of them gets close to what you have now. 4 LiTimes would 4800 watt hours of storage. About 45% more storage… I think I see a pattern developing here!

 

[mesquito_creek]

My cart currently is a 36v cart (36v motor and controller). Motor and controller are being upgraded to a 48v. The motor and controller are both capable of handling up to 72v but, I will not go up that high....I will build it to be a 48v. I am on forum after forum and the lingo between AGM and lead acid and lithium is mind boggling.

Gotcha, makes sense!

Just convert everything to watt hours, it’s easier.

48v 100ah battery is 4800 watt hours
51.2v 100ah battery is 5120 watt hours

A 5kw motor running 100% would run for about an hour on either of those. My guess is that you don’t run WOT continuously, but I could be wrong! Lol!

So if you run on average about 1/2 throttle, double that time to 2 hours. Etc etc.

 

[Motoxxxloak]

Gotcha, makes sense!

Just convert everything to watt hours, it’s easier.

48v 100ah battery is 4800 watt hours
51.2v 100ah battery is 5120 watt hours

A 5kw motor running 100% would run for about an hour on either of those. My guess is that you don’t run WOT continuously, but I could be wrong! Lol!

So if you run on average about 1/2 throttle, double that time to 2 hours. Etc etc.

Ok, so this battery won’t work then since it’s 60ah. That reduces the above to about half.

 

[EmpirE231]

It looks like you have 8 six volts batteries wired 2S4P (two series / 4 parallel)

That is 5,376 useable watt hours of storage.
That is 4.5 LiTime 12v/100ah battery equivalent.

So if you could get 8 LiTimes in there you would have 9600 watt hours of storage. What’s that? About a 44% increase over what you have today…

And ya! Those dc224-6 batteries are expensive! Could roughly cut you cost in have or more and get the 44 increase if the LiTimes last 2x longer.

yeah I only need 12V, and the most AH I can get.

I am tempted to get 3 of these
https://www.litime.com/products/lit...4-battery-built-in-200a-bms-max-2944wh-energy

would put me at 690AH

 

[mesquito_creek]

yeah I only need 12V, and the most AH I can get.

I am tempted to get 3 of these
https://www.litime.com/products/lit...4-battery-built-in-200a-bms-max-2944wh-energy

would put me at 690AH

That would be 8280 watt hours… a nice 35% increase in your capability.

 

[DoughBallin14]

yeah I only need 12V, and the most AH I can get.

I am tempted to get 3 of these
https://www.litime.com/products/lit...4-battery-built-in-200a-bms-max-2944wh-energy

would put me at 690AH

You guys are making me jealous with all the space you have to work with!!

If you can fit it and ready for the expense these Chins 400ah ones have some pretty good reviews
2 of these around 800ah. Would take a lot of solar to charge along with genny to fill em. But 200amp bms capacity supposedly each

and price. Just not on sale like li time.

 

[DoughBallin14]

My space is tiny and a big change to relocate them somewhere else in the coach.
Barely fits to group 24s lead acids, inside this enclosed compartment.



These were the two highest capacity batts i could find to make fit.

I can do 2 of these for 600ah



Or two of these

 

[Singleton]

Looks like I need to review this thread when I am 100% dedicated. Tons of solid advise and data.

My ToyHauler’s 12V system is currently supported with 2 lead acid 6v batteries and they are approaching 4 years of age. This winter I plan on a trailer rewire to upgrade a few items and redo the battery to get additional battery capacity.

I run a 2000w inverter to run the coffee pot in the am when dry camping to let the girls sleep and last time camping the batteries started to drain quick then the daughter had the inverter on and was watching TV the night before.

With the price a LA batteries, going to switch it up.

 

[mesquito_creek]

Looks like I need to review this thread when I am 100% dedicated. Tons of solid advise and data.

My ToyHauler’s 12V system is currently supported with 2 lead acid 6v batteries and they are approaching 4 years of age. This winter I plan on a trailer rewire to upgrade a few items and redo the battery to get additional battery capacity.

I run a 2000w inverter to run the coffee pot in the am when dry camping to let the girls sleep and last time camping the batteries started to drain quick then the daughter had the inverter on and was watching TV the night before.

With the price a LA batteries, going to switch it up.

A kurig coffee machine takes 1350 watts and a Mr coffe type a bit less! I run both off a lifepo4 batteries in my boat effortlessly… and quietly!

 

[spotondl]

Another factor that hasn’t been mentioned is the weight. These batts are half the weight of your AGM’s & lead acids. So so much nicer to handle.

 

[EmpirE231]

My space is tiny and a big change to relocate them somewhere else in the coach.
Barely fits to group 24s lead acids, inside this enclosed compartment.
View attachment 1285811 View attachment 1285810


These were the two highest capacity batts i could find to make fit.

I can do 2 of these for 600ah
View attachment 1285812


Or two of these

View attachment 1285813

The lithium ions to my understanding do not off-gas, so you can mount them inside under a bed or couch.

 

[DoughBallin14]

The lithium ions to my unsuspecting not off-gas, so you can mount them inside under a bed or couch.

Agreed! I have though about a few spots and i just need to see where i can sacrifice some storage space and make sure i upsize the battery lead and keep it as close as possible for minimal loss. I also have solar so i need to keep them close to my mppt controller.
Game planing once i bring it home from the river next weekend

 

[Bpracing1127]

what group size is closest to a 200 amp hour battery?

 

[DoughBallin14]

here is a chart of the common battery group sizes. You would have to look at each lithium brands size description. I have seen a few variations in dimensions on lithiums but all 100ah liths seem to be around the group 24 to group 27 sizes.

Alot of larger lithiums i have seen are like the big rectangle 8D size batteries.

 

[EmpirE231]

Okay so I ordered 3 of the 12V 230AH batteries, with what appear to be the newer BMS system (200amp, low temp protection)

LiTime 12V 230Ah Plus Low-Temp Protection Deep Cycle LiFePO4 Battery,

LiTime 12V 230Ah LTCP LiFePO4 battery with 2944Wh usable energy has low-temperature protection. Weighing only 45.22lbs.

www.litime.com

where would be a good place to make sure I have all charging parameters etc set up properly before I install them?

These will be going into a motorhome, that has 2 magnum inverters / chargers (one of them is newer and lithium ready, the other I am assuming I would need to upgrade the charging board?)

there is an alternator involved when driving / motor running.... do I need to worry about this?

No solar installed yet, but plan on doing that eventually

 

[mesquito_creek]

Okay so I ordered 3 of the 12V 230AH batteries, with what appear to be the newer BMS system (200amp, low temp protection)

LiTime 12V 230Ah Plus Low-Temp Protection Deep Cycle LiFePO4 Battery,

LiTime 12V 230Ah LTCP LiFePO4 battery with 2944Wh usable energy has low-temperature protection. Weighing only 45.22lbs.

www.litime.com

where would be a good place to make sure I have all charging parameters etc set up properly before I install them?

These will be going into a motorhome, that has 2 magnum inverters / chargers (one of them is newer and lithium ready, the other I am assuming I would need to upgrade the charging board?)

there is an alternator involved when driving / motor running.... do I need to worry about this?

No solar installed yet, but plan on doing that

So the lifepo4 charging profile is super simple for that battery…. Look at the charging profile on your magnum inverters? As long as they are under 14.4 you can’t hurt these batteries. There is no float or maintenance etc on lifepo4. If the charge is under 14.4 you at just slightly under charging then and extending the life span

 

[mesquito_creek]

The alternator issue is real.. you can’t just swap out lifepo4 fron lead and have a traditional alternator connected… their is super low resistance on the lifepo4 vs lead acid and it will kill your alternator if there is nothing in between regulating that.

 

[ka0tyk]

The alternator issue is real.. you can’t just swap out lifepo4 fron lead and have a traditional alternator connected… their is super low resistance on the lifepo4 bs lead acid and it will kill your alternator if there is nothing in between regulating that.

Either a dc/dc charger or use a wakespeed alternator controller. No big deal. I have dual 300a alternators and I charge my lithium bank thru a FET isolator. But I also have a big starting bank to take the load when the bms in the lithium says it’s “full” and just shuts off. So far everything is fine.