2FORCEFULL
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got questions for the teacher..
why would you want one???I have one on my current boat.... the whole boat get out of the water...looks like a bass boat try'n to get to the fish'n hole first....it'll carry the bow with out trim'n up...I always thought they were a great drive for smaller vee bottoms. There’s so much leverage out there it carries the bow better, as well as makes the boats ride smoother than traditional B1’s. Essex was really the only Mfg that embraced them for that purpose.
What do you want to know? If I don’t know the answer I’m sure I can find out.
interesting... what do you mean???School me I have one on my Essex's, whats the deal with clocking or timing the props ?
I've been told that the front and rear props have to be timed so that none of the tips of the blades don't cross under the drive at the same time ? Supposedly will give you a little more top end if they don't ? I personally have no clue that's why I'm asking. I don't even know if its possible I've never pulled my props off . I do know when I rotate my props they both meet (blade up ) directly under the out drive.interesting... what do you mean???
I see that hill puts a 4 blade on the front...does that still applyI've been told that the front and rear props have to be timed so that none of the tips of the blades don't cross under the drive at the same time ? Supposedly will give you a little more top end if they don't ? I personally have no clue that's why I'm asking. I don't even know if its possible I've never pulled my props off . I do know when I rotate my props they both meet (blade up ) directly under the out drive.
No clue , that's why I was hoping some one in the know would chime in. I know they make a bravo 3 xr drive my buddy's got a pair of them on his 40' formula with 425 hp 496's . I get the whole counter rotating props cancelling out torque steer but you would think the hydrodynamics of the props would make the rear prop always in turbulent water and not as efficient (maybe thats why they should be timed)I see that hill puts a 4 blade on the front...does that still apply
I've been told that the front and rear props have to be timed so that none of the tips of the blades don't cross under the drive at the same time ? Supposedly will give you a little more top end if they don't ? I personally have no clue that's why I'm asking. I don't even know if its possible I've never pulled my props off . I do know when I rotate my props they both meet (blade up ) directly under the out drive.
I never said anything like that, just said I'd like to learn about the bravo 33333, as far as worried....lol... never, and if I was worried about speed I sure as hell would not have bought a tug boat with a bravo 3...that being said..I always like to know what I have is working proper...If they rotate counter clockwise at the same speed, how could that possibly be true?
I've had a B3 for almost 15 years and it hasn't skipped a beat. If you are worried about a couple or even five miles an hour difference you are buying the wrong kind of boat for whatever you think your application is.
The last two sentences were directed at 2FF.
mine are about 10 o'clock….????? now I'm wondering here...I've been told that the front and rear props have to be timed so that none of the tips of the blades don't cross under the drive at the same time ? Supposedly will give you a little more top end if they don't ? I personally have no clue that's why I'm asking. I don't even know if its possible I've never pulled my props off . I do know when I rotate my props they both meet (blade up ) directly under the out drive.
I found this...I've been told that the front and rear props have to be timed so that none of the tips of the blades don't cross under the drive at the same time ? Supposedly will give you a little more top end if they don't ? I personally have no clue that's why I'm asking. I don't even know if its possible I've never pulled my props off . I do know when I rotate my props they both meet (blade up ) directly under the out drive.
If you google it the old timers say it reduces cavitation on the rear prop, That makes some sense to me as it would come off of the tip of the front blade smacking the rear blade in the wrong place , honestly I cant see it doing anything for performance but it probably would raise the efficiency a little.mine are about 10 o'clock….????? now I'm wondering here...
I see that hill puts a 4 blade on the front...does that still apply
so anyways,... the thread is about why you would want, or not want a bravo 3... and any other things a guy might learn..
When I bought this boat,...the guy said, we never drive this boat WOT,.. use it to wake board... I did notice this... after running to Hallett beach and back there are burn marks on the rear prop...so I will be clocking the front prop at 12 o'clock… and the rear at 6 o'clock...don't know if there will be any performance gain,. and again not looking for any more speed, it cruises right where we like it... but if I get a top end gain, or any other noticeable gain anywhere I'll take it and post the findings..this boat is kinda like a class C rv, not really my type of set up,,, but nice to have the room when you need it...Sue and I like to get away by our selves a lot, but it's also nice to get together with family and friends..sure I'D RATHER be haul'n ass in a schiada… but not with 14 people in the boat..If you google it the old timers say it reduces cavitation on the rear prop, That makes some sense to me as it would come off of the tip of the front blade smacking the rear blade in the wrong place , honestly I cant see it doing anything for performance but it probably would raise the efficiency a little.
no room,... lol but I did look...I would say that these boats would get a benefit with tabs.. but who knows...pretty typical ride though... boobie bouncer in the Bow... smooth ride aft...the B3 drive seems to carry the whole boat out of the water, so trimming it up didn't work like a B1...is it gonna get a wamo plate?
JUST THINKING OUT LOUD HERE, BUT WANTED TO ASK AN OPINION...my boat is 23'2''.. weighs somewhere around 5k lbs...18 degree bottom..fuel injected 454, 2.0 bravo 3 w/ 28p props. 2.0 wot should be right at 60mph or so...correct?... it does 35 mph gps @ 3000 rpmsI think it's a great drive, especially for heavier boats. I have a GPS speedo and phasing the props correctly does make a difference, not much but when you can gain a mph or so on a 45 mph boat it helps.
Also, I run different pitch props to help dial it in a bit. I've found that a 24 on front and 22 on the rear works best for my set up. I haven't tried a 4 blade combo yet but will eventually.
I found this...
For installing B3 props, ALSWAG told me the following; after placing 1st prop on, turn blade up at 12 o"clock. Then place the next prop on with blades at 10 and 2 o:clock.
Sounds about right, but will depend on what your wide open RPM is. I also have a 2.0 but can only spin my 24/22 combo about 4800 at 46-47 mph......But I have a 350.JUST THINKING OUT LOUD HERE, BUT WANTED TO ASK AN OPINION...my boat is 23'2''.. weighs somewhere around 5k lbs...18 degree bottom..fuel injected 454, 2.0 bravo 3 w/ 28p props. 2.0 wot should be right at 60mph or so...correct?... it does 35 mph gps @ 3000 rpms
I also found that the props need some cup. Something about Volvo's patent on the dual props that Mercury can't cup theirs. It may help your slip %.I just checked slip...35mph @3k rpms is 12% slip....using the 12% slip and wot of 4600 rpms..top speed would be 54 mph...0 slip would be 61 mph, so probey not gonna happen...
the 454 injected is max 4600, I believe... I have a 2.0 spinning 28p props..does it pretty much with ease..again… not try'n to go faster …. just try'n to understand what I have and what it "Should do"Sounds about right, but will depend on what your wide open RPM is. I also have a 2.0 but can only spin my 24/22 combo about 4800 at 46-47 mph......But I have a 350.
you are at 14% slip...Sounds about right, but will depend on what your wide open RPM is. I also have a 2.0 but can only spin my 24/22 combo about 4800 at 46-47 mph......But I have a 350.
same for me,looking at it is a mystery to me though...Mine works great for the application. No issues planes quick for the length and weight.
one has to be at am and one at pm... can't do it during leap year thoughAM or PM ?
no room,... lol but I did look...I would say that these boats would get a benefit with tabs.. but who knows...pretty typical ride though... boobie bouncer in the Bow... smooth ride aft...the B3 drive seems to carry the whole boat out of the water, so trimming it up didn't work like a B1...
pretty sure that's why open bows were invented
Pretty sure it's why the sport of boating exists periodpretty sure that's why open bows were invented
Steve your Rinker that I bought had the Bravo 3, it was a very good drive, no issues, handled the super heavy boat with ease, got on plane as quickly as you would want, backed up with ease much more control than my other 1's at low speeds, turned a tight circle without losing its grip, never had an issue with it. I did know that costs to repair were much higher but that is all.Well, all in all, pretty interesting set up, I've personally never have owned a boat with this drive... and it quite interesting ,.. I did notice this...we loaded up this chaparral pretty good , getting on plane was effortless ...cruise speed at 45 was easy..and I did notice that WOT carried the whole boat out of the water... even with 4 or 5 people in the front..again… speed was not the objective...hauling everyone and room to roam around in comfort was the plan..not exact sure on the fuel consumption, but we ran around all day on 1/4 of the tank... we went from boulder harbor all the way to Hallett beach and back with a lot of stops along the way...it has a 56 gal. belly tank and those tend to run a long time on full, so I won't know how much fuel we really used till I fill it up,